Category Index
Wednesday
Sep012010

Wine Wednesday: 2007 Unti Vineyards Dry Creek Grenache

You've heard the legend of the 2007 vintage, right? The dry spring, the moderate summer, the extra long hangtime through the fall. The wine pundits couldn't help but wax poetic about the sultry Cabs, the ripe Pinots. But where's the Grenache love? 

Well, we found it. Packed tight inside this bottle of 2007 Unti Dry Creek Valley Grenache ($26.99). Easily one of the best Grenache-dominant wines from California, it's starting to loosen up its petals a bit, but needs air or a little more time to fully bloom. Patience will reward you, kind drinker, with aromas of brambly fruit, white pepper, crushed fennel fronds and sage. On the palate, the fruit bounces like a rubber ball, ricocheting off underlying flavors of tar, bouquet garni and black pepper spice. There's a little sauvage hint from the 10% Mourvedre and extra structure and fruit from the addition of 10% Syrah, neither of which overpower the Grenache fruit or undermine it's juicy acidity. Personally, I'm going to pour a bottle of this in the decanter early on Sunday for my Labor Day weekend barbecue.

If you're not familiar with Unti already, it's a shame. This small, family-owned and operated winery in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley, produces some truly fabulous wines from their property, including this Grenache, as well as Zinfandel, a Rhone-style blend called Petite Frere, a white Rhone blend called Cuvee Blanc and Syrah, among others. Farmed under the watchful eye of George Unti and his son Mick, the wines are crafted with the help of Sebastien Pochan, a winemaker trained in the heart of the Languedoc. They make a powerful trio, and it shows. Their wines just keep getting better.

Leah Greenstein

Tuesday
Aug312010

Can You Pair Tequila With Food?

When the Spanish Conquistadors came to Jalisco, Mexico, they experienced a bit of gastronomic culture shock. In a letter back to the Spanish king, Nuño de Guzmán, a particularly ferocious conquistador, wrote, "This land has no bread nor wine nor oil, vingar or cattle." They may not have had wine from grapes, but the indigenous people did have a fermented beverage from the nectar of the agave. When this pulque-like drink met the Moorish invention of the pot still, Tequila (and history) were made.

With a fabulous beverage in hand and no wine, what else do you do, but create a cuisine that goes well with Tequila? After all, most of modern Mexican cuisine is a fusion of "Old World" and "New World" ingredients and cooking techniques. A dinner at Tres Agaves featuring the awsome Fortaleza Tequilas was a great testing ground for my theory.

Tequila Fortaleza is a fantastic distillery headed by the passionate and charismatic Guillermo Sauza, a fifth generation taquilero in the heartland of Jalisco. Yes, his family is the Sauza family, but his grandfather sold their brand in the late 1970s. The family does, however, still own the Fortaleza distillery in the town of Tequila and a beautiful hacienda nearby. From the brick ovens to the old stone mill, everything here is done the old-fashioned way. This artisanal Tequila, with its complex and deep flavors, is a great foil for food.

As we sat down for dinner, all three of the Fortaleza Tequilas were poured in glasses in front of us. I tasted through everything first:

Tequila Fortaleza Blanco ($46.99) The Blanco is the true expression of the beautiful blue agave. Bottled after distillation and adjustment to 40% alcohol, it has bright citrus and pear aromas and a full body on the palate. The long peppery finish on the palate lasts and lasts.

Tequila Fortaleza Reposado ($55.99) The Reposado is aged in used Bourbon barrels for 6-9 months. Aromas of pear, golden beets and vanillin oak are followed by a round, plush palate feel. Green peppercorn and a bit of heat lift the rich flavors of this repo.

Tequila Fortaleza Añejo ($81.99) Aged for 32 months in used Bourbon barrels, this is a powerful Tequila. All the wood complements the earthy rich aromas of cooked agave. The elegance of the aromas and the palate is followed by enough earth and fire on the finish to remind you that this was Tequila!

Now I know what you're thinking. Okay, Anne, tasting notes are great, but does it go with food?

The beautiful part of having all three styles already in front of me was that I got to compare and contrast as the dinner went on. We began with a selection of antojitos or appetizers. The albondigas de camarones or shrimp dumplings in a roasted tomato sauce went beautifully with the Blanco. The citrus notes did really well with the shrimp while the wood of the other two tequilas was overpowering. From there we moved to a puerco in salsa verde served with coconut rice. The Blanco showed well as a contrast to the richness of the dish, and the Reposado was also a great compliment. The Añejo was still a bit too big. From there we moved to Xolostle, a regional classic made of chicken that is slow cooked in a red chili sauce. I loved the Reposado with this dish. The peppery finish matched up well with the cascalbel chilis. Finally, our entrée was cola de res en salsa negra, oxtails that were braised in a dark chili sauce and served with elote and lime rice. Oh my! The Añejo had found a friend with this dish. The full flavors married beautifully with the fiery earthiness of the spirit.

At the end of the night, I was a convert. Artisanal Tequilas like the Fortaleza have a complexity to them that makes them a fabulous foil for more than chips and guacamole. Try some at a dinner in your hacienda!

Anne Pickett

Monday
Aug302010

Cheese Happens

K&L Personal Sommelier Online: September 2010

 "Un dessert sans fromage est une belle à qui il manque un oeil."  

 (A dessert without cheese is like a one-eyed beauty.)

 —Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, The Physiology of Taste

It is not just a French thing, or even an elite foodie thing. From San Francisco to Syracuse, artisan cheese, in all its pungent glory, is here. And whether you’re new to the cheese world, or a veteran fromage fanatic, a basic understanding of wine and cheese pairing is essential for any wine lover to possess.

A great place to start your wine and cheese odyssey is at the end. While I am happy to eat cheese any time, I can’t help but agree with the French that the optimum cheese moment is before or in place of dessert, when the stomach is subdued and the palate properly prepped for the challenge.

If you have a special bottle of dessert wine in mind, I suggest selecting one equally special cheese that will really make the wine sing. The last thing you want is for that carefully aged bottle to be overshadowed by a mismatched cheese. Consider palate weight, texture, structure and any distinctive flavor or aroma characteristics of the wine. Then select a cheese that can play a supporting role—one that is of similar weight and body, and that accentuates the unique flavors of the wine. Salty, pungent bleu cheeses, for example, are ideal with with rich, tannic dessert wines like vintage Ports. The saltiness of the cheese intensifies the sweetness and spice in the wine, playing down bitter flavors and subduing alcohol. This kind of robust cheese is richly textured and coats the mouth, thus softening the perception of tannins and drawing the the fruit flavors forward. 

When serving a variety of cheeses, always choose the cheeses first.  A good cheese board is balanced, with cheeses of varying weights, ages and textures.  It is easy to feel overwhelmed by the many wonderful cheese options out there, so don't be afraid to ask your cheesemonger for guidance. That's what they're there for!

For optimum palate pleasure, aim to limit the offering to between three and five cheeses, and ideally one type of wine.  When selecting the wine, you can quickly narrow down your choices if you stick with those stickies that will pair with most pungent cheese on the board.  While strong cheeses can easily dominate a light wine, fuller-bodied wines will still complement milder cheeses. 

Here is some cheese (and wine) for thought:

Rich, earthy cheeses

2008 Clos Uroulat Jurançon Moelleux (375ml $15.99) Jurançon is a white wine-producing AOC in the foothills of the Pyrenees that became famous for its moelleux (sweet) wines after one was used in the baptism of the infant Henry IX in 1553. Modern-day Jurançon producer Charles Hours makes his classic estate Moelleux from Petite Manseng harvested from the steep slopes of Clos Uroulat. This golden-colored, elegantly sweet wine has a rich, exotic nose, showing aromas of tropical fruit and honeysuckle. The palate reveals sweet pineapple with notes of cinnamon and an underlying nuttiness. Vibrant acidity keeps the impression fresh and not cloying. This wine pairs well with rich, salty, earthy cheeses like Tomme de chèvre au Jurançon or Roquefort, where the sweetness and acidity of the wine can play with the savory and tangy qualities of the cheese while tantalizing the palate with contrasting flavors.

Blue-veined, Salty Cheeses

2004 Cave de Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel (500ml $17.99) Vin Doux Naturel are lightly fortified sweet wines produced in the South of France, where the wines are made from overripe grapes with naturally high sugar levels. To stop fermentation, a small dose of neutral spirit is added to the wine, yielding an alcohol level that is slightly higher than table wine but lower than many other fortified wines. This VDN from the Cave de Rasteau cooperative is a handy secret wine weapon, especially if you are looking for something with flavors similar to Port but without its heaviness and alcohol. Served slightly chilled, the complex stewed plum, cherry, fig and walnut oil aromas and flavors of this VDN makes it simply stunning with Stilton.

Mixed Assortment of Cheeses

1998 Domaine Fontanel Rivesaltes “Ambré” (24.99) The sweet wines of Rivesaltes are some of the best kept secrets in the world of aged sweet wine. Domaine Fontanel’s 1998 Ambré is made from 100% Grenache Blanc harvested from 60-year-old vines, and it has a complex flavor profile that stretches from dried fruits (raisin, date) to maple and hazelnut, with a little earthy, rancio character. Thanks to delicately balanced acidity, this wine is intense but not overpowering. I’ve experimented with pairing it with a variety of cheeses—creamy Camembert, nutty Tallegio, savory Mimolette—and have been pleased to discover that this Rivesaltes is not only affordable enough purchase more than one bottle, but it is incredibly cheese-friendly.

Are you ready for cheese to happen to you?

Head Sommelier

Email: sommelier@klwines.com

Just Desserts! Design Your Own Wine Club. Whether you are interested in trying more dessert-style wines to pair with cheese or are simply looking to experiment with different food and wine pairings at home, you can create your own customized wine club through the K&L Personal Sommelier Service. You set the number of bottles, the duration of the subscription and the budget. Focus on specific regions and styles or leave it open to be surprised. Email Sommelier@KLWines.com for more information or visit KLWines.com to get started today!

Friday
Aug272010

Food-Pairing Friday: Peach Galette

A summery peach galette with vanilla ice cream. Photo and recipe by Gaby from What's Gaby Cooking.

There's little that says summer to me more than the sticky sweet juice of a ripe peach running down my arm, leaving pale yellow streaks like tears from the sun. And there are so many varieties of peaches--and their fuzz-free cousins, nectarines--hundreds, in fact, that you could eat three a day all summer long and still not have tried them all. Their names ring like terms of endearment: August Pride, Honey Babe, Snow Beauty. And while a perfectly ripe peach enjoyed out of hand can easily transport the eater to some mental summer vacation, sometimes we crave something a little more sophisticated from our fruit.

Enter the Peach Galette (recipe), like the one above, made by the spunky Los Angeles-based personal chef and blogger, Gaby Dalkin. Its simple, flaky, buttery pastry crust and free-form shape make it a much easier dessert to tackle than a pie, and it's sexy on the table like a tarte tatin. When you're shopping at the farmers' market, look for yellow-fleshed peaches and steer clear of the "sub-acid" varieties, which are all sugar and lack the dimension that really makes this dessert sing.

If you're looking for a pairing to really wow your friends at your Labor Day barbecue next weekend, couple a slice of this, topped with homemade vanilla ice cream, and a glass of the 2007 Haut Charmes, Sauternes (375ml $14.99). This Sauternes comes from the younger vines from the region's most legendary château. Sadly, I've been sworn to secrecy as to their name, but suffice it to say, its location between the Garonne River Valley, the Ciron River and the Landaise forest provide the perfect microclimate for growing botrytised grapes. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, the Haut-Charmes comes from a classic Sauternes vintage. It has honeyed apricot, mango and peach aromas and flavors that will jam with the peaches in the Galette like Charlie Parker with Ella Fitzgerald. And its rich texture is wonderfully seductive--it could even handle it if you decided to substitute the ice cream for some tangy La Tur or salty Manchego.

Leah Greenstein

Thursday
Aug262010

Getting to Know: Jason Marwedel

What’s your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company?

I am a part of the sales staff at the Redwood City store, and also do some customer support on the phone lines.  I started with K&L in December of 2009.

What did you do before K&L?

Upon graduating college, I managed a specialty food and wine store in the San Francisco Ferry Building Marketplace. After four years I wanted to experience the corporate world, so I transitioned to the healthcare industry working for a pharmaceutical consulting firm.  It was a challenging two years, but it helped me reaffirm my passion for the wine industry.  Thankfully, K&L saved me shortly after this realization. 

What do you do in your spare time?

Above all I love to spend time with my lovely wife Emily, our families, and many good friends.  I enjoy cooking and making homemade charcuterie.  I also spend time reading, exercising, and enjoy being outdoors.  Recently I set up my first vintage HI-FI stereo system, and am beginning explorations into the world of vinyl.   

What is your favorite movie?

That’s easy…The Great Escape. Steve McQueen vs. the Third Reich, what’s not to love?!

What was your epiphany wine?

Without a doubt, the 1968 Corton from Domaine Patriarche I tasted on my first trip to France four years ago.  My cousin Eric invited his brother and I to join him at the annual Hospices de Beaune wine auction.  Over the course of one week we consumed a sea of fabulous wine, but one particularly memorable day was spent tasting at Domaine Patriarche.  After hours of winding through their ancient underground caves, the magnum awaited us atop a weathered wine barrel.  The server poured us each a glass, and it was like nothing I had ever experienced before.  One couldn’t ask more of a great Burgundy.  What a magical trip….thanks again E-Man.  

Describe your perfect meal.

My perfect meal would be served family style at my house with a host of family and close friends.  For starters: an antipasti platter of jambon de bayonne, pequillo peppers and cured olives served with a glass of Txakolina from Bodega Gurrutxaga.  For dinner: a grilled leg of lamb (bone in, of course) with roasted potatoes and green beans, paired with a 1970 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial.  Next, a light green salad to aid digestion and for dessert, sheep’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees served with black cherry jam.  

How do you think your palate’s changed over the years?

My palate is constantly evolving.  Having only been in the wine industry a few years, I am frequently exposed to new regions and producers as well as older vintages and new winemaking traditions.  For me the most exciting aspect of wine is experiencing the unknown and committing new wine imprints to my memory.

What do you like to drink?

At home we love to drink Champagne, any and all wines from the Loire Valley, as well as traditionally-styled Rioja.  That being said, I am adventurous and always jump at the opportunity to try something new!

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine?

Know thyself!  There are no right or wrong answer when it comes to YOUR taste, so don’t feel the need to conform to the likes and dislikes of others.  Experiment with new wines and regions, ask questions, and always wait 45 minutes after consuming alcohol before diving in the pool!

Want to drink wines that Jason likes?

Join K&L's Personal Sommelier Service and make him your Personal Sommelier.

Wednesday
Aug252010

Wine Wednesday: 2009 Guillemarine Picpoul de Pinet

I generally drink cocktails at weddings. Not because I'm trying to get drunk. But because the wines being served, in general, are just not that good (and sometimes they're downright wretched). I don't blame the bride and groom, of course, I blame the countless halls and hotels that don't give them better, more affordable options. There are good, affordable, wedding-friendly wines out there--we wrote a whole post about choosing better wedding wines--but they are too often overlooked.

That's why I was thrilled last month when a friend of mine poured the 2009 Domaine Guillemarine Picpoul de Pinet ($9.99) at his wedding in Northern California, and he's not even a wine geek. Of course, this wine isn't strictly for nuptials. In fact, it's one of our staff's favorites for warm weather. And it's hot today, even in San Francisco.

Picpoul, also called Folle Blanche, means "lip stinger" in French, a fitting appellation considering the tingling sensation that this racy wine creates. Definitely not a flabby, flat wine, Picpoul  is often compared to Muscadet because of its high acidity, saline nature and affinity for seafood. The Domaine Guillemarine comes from vineyards just meters away from the oyster beds of the Bassin de Thau. And those fabulous little bivalves complement its clean, crisp character remarkably well. Our staff has also suggested pairing it with salad niçoise, roasted chicked, sushi, spicy curries, rich, oily fishes like mackerel or sardines, and even with cured meats. But the thing I like best about this wine, and the reason I think it was a fantastic choice for my friend's wedding, is that it's also fabulous as an aperitif.

So if you're looking for the perfect little black dress of a wine, something that goes with everything, pleases nearly everyone and is affordable enough to buy by the case for a big celebration. Even if that celebration is Wednesday night.

 

Leah Greenstein

Tuesday
Aug242010

Pinot Noir-Lavender Sorbeto


The 2010 grape harvest is officially underway. In some cases two to three weeks late. According to the Press Democrat, Hunter Vineyards near Glen Ellen was on schedule to start picking Pinot Noir yesterday, and Mumm in Napa reported starting to pick in the cool, pre-dawn hours this morning. 

But not all of the grapes being harvested across the state in the next few months will wind up in wine...

Click to read more ...

Monday
Aug232010

Cep, Outside What You Know

Fog rolling over the knoll at Peay Vineyards on the "true" Sonoma Coast.Way, way out on the Sonoma Coast, on an isolated swath of land down 40 miles of winding, mountain roads, perched on a hilltop just four miles from the roiling and chilly Pacific Ocean are the Peay family vineyards. It’s often cold here. Sweater cold. Even in the summertime. And the risks of growing and ripening grapes here are great. Fortunately, though, when brothers Nick and Andy Peay were looking for vineyard land, they recognized that the rewards were potentially greater.

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Friday
Aug202010

Food-Pairing Friday: Lamb Burgers

Lamb burgers with mint and pistachio salsa verde by Brooke Burton of Food Woolf.I love to cook, and cook up a storm. I have no problem with whipping up a batch of homemade tagliatelle on a Thursday night, or two-day slow-cooked smoked Carolina-style pulled pork. But sometimes I want dinner to be simple, to leave more time for lounging on the patio (in our case a tiny cement space between our bungalow and our neighbors) inhaling the fresh sea air and less time standing over a steaming sink of dishes. Which is why I so love this lamb burger with mint and pistachio salsa verde recipe from my dear friend Brooke over at Food Woolf. It's savory, summery and super easy.

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Thursday
Aug192010

Getting to Know: Elisabeth Schriber

What’s your position at K&L?

I’m the senior editor. Most of my time is spent updating notes, scores and reviews for all the wines, beers and spirits on KLWines.com. I’ve been at K&L for seven years.

What did you do before K&L?

I was an editor and copywriter, with perhaps the weakest gift for spelling of any writer before or since.

Click to read more ...