Friday
19Mar2010

Getting to Know: Jeff Garneau

Name: Jeff Garneau

What’s your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company? I have been a member of the sales staff in our Redwood City store for four and a half years. My current responsibilities include assisting owner Clyde Beffa with the wines of Bordeaux, focusing on in-store merchandising, sales and customer support.

What did you do before you started working here?

After I completed my undergraduate degree in geography I went on to graduate school, intending to become a university professor. I left school before completing my PhD, but I still have a weakness for maps, particularly of the world’s wine regions. After grad school I spent some time in the public sector working on regional economic development. Right before I joined K&L I spent a couple of years working as a records manager for one of the larger accounting firms. I always dreamed of retiring early and starting a second career in the wine business. I just got started a little sooner than I originally planned.

What do you like to do in your spare time?

Cook. Eat. Drink wine. Preferably with like-minded friends. Read. I am an avid reader. I have spent almost as much time in bookstores over the years as wine shops. Almost.

What’s your favorite movie?

Big Night (1996) with Stanley Tucci and Tony Shalhoub. It’s about two immigrant brothers trying unsuccessfully to run an Italian restaurant in New Jersey in the 1950s. It tells you everything you need to know about food, about life, about success and about family.

What was your “epiphany wine”—the bottle or glass that got you interested in wine? Is there a current wine that you consider the equivalent?

A 1978 Pio Cesare Barolo I had in the late 1990s. It was the first truly mature wine I ever tasted, but I think the reason the wine made such an impression on me was because it tasted exactly the way I was given to understand it would taste. I had read in several different books that an older nebbiolo might exhibit aromas of violets and tar. When I raised the glass it was as if I held instead a handful of violets, crushing them under my nose to release their perfume. A second sniff revealed a wonderfully tarry mineral note that took me back to my boyhood in the South where the summer sun would bake the asphalt, searing your bare feet if you were too slow in crossing the road. I learned two things that night that I have never forgotten: 1) Wine at its best is capable of producing incredibly complex and varied tastes, flavors, and smells, and 2) because we humans respond so powerfully to our sense of smell wine can evoke extraordinary emotions, feelings, and memories. My current “Pio” equivalent is the 1997 LangoaBarton, St-Julien. 1997 is hardly the vintage of the decade, but the wine is showing beautifully right now. It is textbook claret, exactly as it is supposed to be.

Describe your perfect meal (at a restaurant or prepared at home). What wine(s) would you pair with it?

My husband, Chuck, has worked for years to perfect his recipe for roast chicken. It is moist and rich and savory with a crispy skin seasoned only with sea salt, fresh cracked pepper and a little lemon. He usually serves it with a seasonal green vegetable like the fresh asparagus we had last night. He roasts root vegetables like parsnips, potatoes, carrots and turnips and always includes some unpeeled garlic cloves for me so I can spread the roasted garlic on fresh-baked artisanal bread. The meal is always accompanied by a Pinot Noir from California or Oregon, New Zealand or Burgundy. Our traditional favorite, however, is the Joseph Swan “Cuvée de Trois” from the Russian River in California. We drank the 2006 vintage last night.

How do you think your palate’s changed over the years?

When I first started drinking wine perhaps 20 years ago I drank a lot more red wines as well as wines that were bigger and more fruit forward. Now though I drink more balanced, food-friendly wines from all different parts of the world of every type and description.

What do you like to drink?

I try to limit myself to whites, reds, and rosés, still wine and sparkling and fortified wines.

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine? For those just getting into wine I offer the following advice:  “form impressions readily, form opinions reluctantly.” There is so much to know that one can never approach the study of wine with anything but humility. Keep an open mind. Measure what you learn against what you think you know. And taste, taste, taste. One of my colleagues here at K&L once observed that the best tool for learning about wine is a corkscrew. You learn something from every bottle you open, from every glass you pour. What could be better than that?

If you could have dinner with any three people in history, who would you invite? What wine would you serve each of them?

Eleanor of Aquitaine, Thomas Jefferson and Emile Peynaud. We would start out with a nice bottle of vintage Champagne and then simply sample as many bottles of Bordeaux as ti

Thursday
18Mar2010

Winery to Watch: Amalie Robert

"Luck is when an opportunity meets a prepared mind."

This is the guiding principle of Ernie Pink and Dena Drews. It’s what led them to buy a cherry orchard 15 miles south of Salem, Oregon in the Willamette Valley, convert it to a vineyard and start making wine. It’s what led our domestic buyer Bryan Brick—on a never-ending quest to fine great Pinot—to find them, and we’re sure it’s part of what will get you to take a chance on their wine.

Still, it wasn’t all luck for the Amalie Robert estate. It took passion, diligence and an attention to detail to get started. Like a lot of people in the domestic wine business, Ernie and Dena weren’t raised in the wine life; they were Pacific Northwest computer nerds first. Trading in keyboards and operating systems for shovels and dirt, they planted grapes: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Viognier to silty Bellpine soils. Their first harvest was in 2002. They sold their dry-farmed fruit to a who’s who of Oregon wineries—Elk Cove, Erath, Cristom and Beaux Frères—and made a little wine on the side, always true to the soil and expressions of the vintage, but never enough to make a dent in the marketplace. In 2006, the couple completed construction of a winery as well as their first estate crush, the results of which have just arrived at K&L.

The Amalie Robert wines are only available in a handful of states and have only recently become available here in California. We’re thrilled to be among the first retailers to discover them. These Pinots are elegant, feminine and built to last, whisking the Pinot-lovers on our staff away to their happy place. The 2006 Amalie Robert “Amalie’s Cuvée” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($54.99) has a sexy sous bois/musk note to complement the lighter, more ethereal strawberry chiffon, cotton candy and talc aromas that comprise its bouquet. It the mouth it is bright and lovely, with pretty, resonating acidity on the attack. Tart cherry, raspberry and red currant fruit fill the palate like Red Riding Hood’s basket with a lingering finish redolent of lavender and wisteria. This is a very special wine showing much more balance than typical for the vintage.

The 2006 Amalie Robert “Dijon Clones” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($42.99) is dominated by clone 777, with smaller proportions of 667, 114, 113 and 115, and each selection adds something to the blend. Spicier on the nose than the Amalie’s Cuvée, the Dijon Clones wakes your senses with prickly notes of clove and nutmeg. There’s a nice tension as the wine opens up between the spice and pure red cherry fruit and an alluring fried mushroom umami quality. The wine expresses the vintage by being very ripe, but does it well with spot on flavors and nice drive. It is tangy and fresh with plum, cassis and currant fruit on the pretty, refined finish.

 

Wednesday
17Mar2010

Getting to Know: Mari Keilman

What’s your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company?

Wine sales: I’m the Champagne & domestic Cabernet Sauvignon liaison.  I’ve been with K&L since the Hollywood store opened.

What did you do before you started working here?

I was at the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena running the Wine Studies program.

What was your “epiphany wine”—the bottle or glass that got you interested in wine?

The ’92 Raymond Burr Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  I was 23 and hadn’t even thought about a career in wine.  I couldn’t stop fixating on the smell of black pepper.  It was the first time that I ever distinguished an individual aroma in a glass of wine.   

 Describe your perfect meal.  What wine(s) would you pair with it?

I love throwing some nice fillets on the grill and enjoying several bottles of wine with my friends.  We’ve paired everything from a Brunello di Montalcino to Rioja to Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.  Lately, I’m really enjoying big, structured Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs.

How do you think your palate has changed over the years?

California Zins were my first love. Looking for more structure and less fruit, I shifted to California Cabernets.  The natural leap was to Bordeaux and, once in France, Pandora’s Box was opened.  But it was when I tasted the Krug Grand Cuvée that I knew my home was in Champagne.

What do you like to drink?

Bubbles and a balanced Cabernet Sauvignon with a little age on it.  Although a dirty martini can be a great substitute.

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine?

Whenever possible, taste with others to help develop a consistent wine lexicon and taste wines side by side in comparison to each other to be able gauge the difference in acidity, body and structure.

If you could have dinner with any three people in history, who would you invite? What wine would you serve each of them?

Marilyn Monroe—only to find out if she really did take a bath in 350 bottles of champagne...and what House it was from. 

Dom Perignon—2000 Dom Perignon Brut—to see his reaction to how champagne today is the result of his accidental discovery and what he strived to get rid of.

Myself on the day I turned 21. I’d bring a bottle of Krug Grand Cuvee to show myself what I missed out on earlier.   

 

Tuesday
16Mar2010

Winemaker Interview: Harry Peterson-Nedry

 

Photo by Marvin CollinsName: Harry Peterson-Nedry                        

Winery: CHEHALEM

Number of years in business:  29 years (Began first vineyard, Ridgecrest Vineyards in 1980, first vineyard in Ribbon Ridge AVA)

How would you describe your winemaking philosophy?

I’m a believer in setting up a dynamic tension between what might seem to be polar opposite approaches. 

We strive for elegance, complexity and ageability in our wines. This means pitting the controls that keep key variables the same—fermentation-to-fermentation, barrel-to-barrel, etc.—against ongoing experimentation and innovation—i.e., left brain vs right brain.  Complexity and nuance come from inherent fruit differences and from intentionally varying some things—like forests/barrel makers (e.g., we use 10 different coopers in PN) and yeasts in barrel and small stainless fermented whites, and four different vineyards in blended wines—while predictability of general style benefits from strictly controlling temperatures and yields and the like. 

Elegance comes from using restraint (on new oak, on ripeness, on fermentation extraction regimes), yielding finesse rather than power, with an emphasis on balance and texture.  Texture is vitally important to us.  That doesn’t mean when we experiment each year that we don’t push the envelope—e.g., playing with an 88% whole cluster lot in 2008, whereas normally we might use 15% average. 

On the one hand, we are driven by science (e.g., in closure trials and decisions to go screwcap 100%, even on reserve wines; in extreme lab analytical work; in rigorous experimentation every year), while on the other hand, we make final picking decisions by flavors and taste, not grape chemistries.  We do not change our brand look and approach, and yet we are always trying new varieties and wine types—e.g., Gruner Veltliner begun in 2008, sekt-styled semi-sparkling Riesling begun in 2007, a Passetoutsgrains since 1992 (called Cerise).  

What wines or winemakers helped influence your philosophy?

The standards for the varieties we make are always the Old World, and I drink the best from those regions, whether Burgundy, Alsace, Germany or Austria.  They aren’t on average superior to us and our peers, but the best wines from those regions, in the best years, are examples I take to heart and try to emulate.  

How involved in grape-growing are you? Is there a particular vineyard site that wows you year after year?  

I started our winery not with barrels and tanks and a building, but with 37 acres of planted vines and almost nine years of maturation before my first commercial vintage, 1990.  We source almost ALL our fruit from our own vineyards, the only exception being some Chardonnay from friends that helps us short-term boost production of INOX, our stainless steel fermented Dijon Chardonnay.  Vineyard is critical to our operations.  We log lots of walked miles in our 4 estate vineyards, especially during final ripening. 

It’s difficult to say we like one child over another.  However, the Reserve Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are almost always exclusively or close to exclusively from Ridgecrest Vineyards—the oldest vineyard, the first on the Ribbon Ridge AVA, the ocean sedimentary soil site and the highest elevation vineyard, meaning it is harvested last.  For white wines, in general, there isn’t a better site in Oregon than Stoller Vineyards and for Riesling, specifically, our Corral Creek site is superior.  Sorry to qualify so much, but Wows come at different times, in different situations.

How do you think your palate has evolved over the years? How do you think that’s influenced your wines? 

I’m less impressed with size and power in wines these days, preferring elegance and nuance now.  That means varieties like Riesling and Pinot Noir excite me more, and aged wines from ageable varieties get my attention, even Cab and Merlot.

What kinds of food do you like to pair your wines with? 

I think white wines are underappreciated by the average American consumer, because they’ve been told that if they are serious they need to be drinking red.  And my table would suffer greatly if limited to red wines—I appreciate lighter fare like fish (sushi, shellfish, halibut, cod, sole, salmon, etc.), pork, innovative vegetable dishes and desserts, all of which have good matches in our portfolio of wines, especially with 60% of our production being white wines.

What changes are planned for coming vintages?

Any new (top secret) varietals, blends or propriety wines on the horizon?  We are just releasing a tiny production Reserve-Reserve type wine we call STATEMENT, from 2006 vintage and released only in “declared” vintages—with another scheduled for 2008.  We’ve also begun releasing two special whites:  SEXT, a sekt-type semi-sparkling 5% RS Riesling (patterned after Moscato d’Asti as a dessert wine); and Gruner Veltliner, beginning with the 2008 vintage—looks surprisingly authentic at this stage.

Is there a style of wine that you think appeals to critics that might not represent your favorite style? How do you deal with it? 

BIG and imbalanced wines aren’t my interest, although I realize that sometimes critics are saddled with picking wines out from a multitude and, mistakenly I think, use size and overtness to make their selection.  Big wines from extraction or wood or overripeness or ML or….hit American between the eyes, but I don’t think that’s necessary except perhaps when consumers’ are beginning and need 2 by 4 guidance.  With maturity, both critics and the consumers they counsel should better value finesse, elegance and nuance of flavours, aromas and textures.

What do you drink when you are not drinking your own wine? 

You’ve hit on a pet peeve of mine.  Drinking one’s own wine, except in making or evaluating it, is the height of narcissistic or self-serving behaviour.  We should be proud of our own wines, but not to the point we take it with us to restaurants or buy it in shops.  Eating out and drinking wine with friends is a perfect opportunity to continually reshape our palates, appreciate new wines and winemakers and regions, to recalibrate the standards by which we measure ourselves. 

I DO tend to stay in the varietals I make, mainly because I make already what I prefer, drinking the Old World and newer serious winemakers—i.e., Burgundies, Rieslings from Germany, Alsace and Austria, White Burgundies, interesting whites like Albarino, Gruner, Sylvaner, etc.  And great coffees.

Do you collect wine? If so, what’s in your cellar? 

I have a cellar going back to the early 70s, with a sprinkling of ancient collectors items.  Lots of Burgundy, Bordeaux, CA Cabernet, Oregon Pinot Noir, and 10+ year old aromatic whites.  I buy auction lots from friends in the industry and trade cases with various people, like Navarro.

What do you see as some of the biggest challenges facing the wine industry today? 

  • The Economy and the resultant slashing of prices to unsustainable levels.  There will be a culling of brands and wines of unpredictable quality on the market—hopefully the inroads into the average American’s lifestyle won’t be lost.
  • Three-tier distribution becoming archaic, due to the creation of only 4-5 mega-distributors, which treat wines as commodities and which fail to serve small wineries.
  • General proliferation of brands and confusion resulting for consumers.
  • New diseases in established wine regions.
  • AND OF COURSE, the changes to established growing regions, their varieties and quality and reputation, due to Global Climate Change.
Monday
15Mar2010

Getting to Know: John Majeski

Name: John Majeski

What's your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company?

Well, I’m often standing or climbing... oh, you mean “that” position? While not making bad puns, I’m the San Francisco liaison for both Latin and Southern Hemisphere wines, which keeps me on my toasts in a vicarious state of travel to far flung vineyards, bodegas and fynbos. Seriously, I’m very fortunate to work with an amazing group of audacious, inspiring, talented people. And I started working at K&L on my birthday in 2007.   

What did you do before you started working here?

Most recently I worked the wine department at Trader Joe’s on Masonic. Before that I wrote slogans and made buttons advertising the novel concept of world peace. Sold expensive fountain pens that mostly went unsold. Another life ago I designed zip, transit and city maps for the phone company, the front of book stuff that no one looks at anymore.  Prior to that I worked as a Yellow Pages artist. Cared for a gang of goats in northern Norway. And sometime before that I was small. Life is strange. 

What do you do in your spare time?

I never metaphor but I remember her face. Word play, even while unconscious, which may be more often than I think. There are books unread, films unseen, wines uncorked, meals un-et, people unknown, memories unmade. Early Tibet! I am always playing catch the moon—ask my cats, they won’t lie to you. Vito and Harley, they’re cool.

What's your favorite movie?

Amelie. Serendipity is the antidote to apathy.  A joyful lesson in that if you say “Yes” to the Universe, it will answer.

What was your “epiphany wine"— the bottle or glass that got you interested in wine? Is there a current wine that you consider the equivalent?

 My earliest epiphanic experience involving wine? 1974. I found myself sitting tired and alone in a cafe in Siracusa, Sicily, chin on my backpack while watching the “Thrilla in Manila” carnage between Muhammed Ali and Joe Frazier. Suddenly in walked a rowdy group of oil workers who, seeing my sorry state, asked me if I wanted to join them and their English girlfriends for dinner. Sure! So we all piled into their tiny windup Fiats and drove 30 miles over the mountains to god-knows-where we were, piled out into a courtyard that held a long platform table lit with candles and platters of rich red pasta and langoustines, bread and inky squid, prawns the size of one’s fist, and unlabeled flasks of dark volcanic peasant wine that tasted like all the gods poured their blood into it. Still the best meal of my life, so I guess that qualifies.

At K&L, recently the 2007 Château de Montfaucon “Vin de Monsieur Le Baron de Montfaucon” Vin de Pays du Gard seduced my palate in a mini-epiphany. The Rhône shone supreme. And every day there is at least the possibility…

Describe your perfect meal (at a restaurant or prepared at home). What wine(s) would you pair with it?

I remember a wonderful Spanish-Peruvian dish once served at the long-closed Alejandro’s Restaurant on Clement Street in San Francisco called Zarzuela de Mariscos, a stunning seafood stew perfumed with garlic, tomatoes, saffron and all manner of shellfish cooked in their birthday suits. Today I would pair it with a bottle of 1981 Lopez de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva.

How do you think your palate’s changed over the years?

When I arrived in California years ago, I discovered the sweet heady hedonism of overripe Zinfandel and bought into the buttered gospel of over-malo’d Chardonnay. There was also a time when Cabernet Sauvignon was the standard bearer. As exposed as I am to so many different wines here, my palate now gravitates to distinctive wines, often made from obscure or near-extinct varieties.

What do you like to drink?

Apart from the many incredible wines I strongly endorse from my sections, both the Loire and French regional wines have managed to keep me sniffing, questing and guessing, which is a very good thing. I love wines from Bandol, Arbois, the Jura and much of the Languedoc, and will never turn down a perfect flute of Franck Bonville “Cuvée Les Belles Voyes” Champagne when offered.

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine?

Don’t go into a wine store with preconceived notions based on “fear of trying,” bottle price or cult iconic labels. Be open; think of wine as a journey of the mind as well as the palate. Educate yourself by tasting everything you can. Our great Saturday tastings offer an ideal place to start learning. And remember, it’s never wrong to ask for friendly advice.

If you could have dinner with any three people in history, who would you invite? What wine would you serve each of them?

Ok, Rod Serling. Louise Brooks. And last but not least, Ignatz the Mouse from the old 1940s Krazy Kat comic strip. I know he’s not human, but so what? Mice gotta drink too. Back to Rod. A bottle of Macallan 18 year would probably put him in the Twilight Zone, but wine? I don’t know. Louise my dear, 1982 Salon Champagne, nothing else would measure up to your incandescent charm and pure joie de vivre. As for Ignatz, a 1966 Latour, brick red at the rim and still in its prime, perhaps.