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The Freewheel line with a couple of English friends.

It takes a lot of beer to keep the wine business running smoothly. Here in Redwood City, we are very fortunate to have a great English style ale producer right in our backyard: Freewheel Brewing Company. The staff of K&L are fictures at our local pub, and it is a rare moment when one of us isn't there having a pint and a bite of their excellent food. We are also lucky enough to be the first place to offer their bottled beer for sale. If you have never had it, the Freewheel Brewing "FSB" Freewheel Special Bitter, California (500ml) is the benchmark in fresh, balanced, smashable ale. We will do our best to keep some in stock for you, the customer too!

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Tasting with Oliver Krug

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Friday
Sep162016

Champagne Summit 2016

The 2009 Cristal delivers on the promise of luxury.

This past Tuesday K&L’s whole Champagne team; Scott Beckerley from San Francisco, Diana Turk from Hollywood and Alex Schroeder and myself from Redwood City assembled to taste nearly all the current releases we carry from the grand marque houses. We started off the night before with a dinner at my house featuring Champagnes from the famous clos or walled vineyards of the region… But that is another story entirely! This was the 5th annual K&L Champagne Summit, and the biggest ever- we met 16 producers and tasted 60 Champagnes at a combined retail value of just under $6000! While this was hard work, we were up to the task!

Our first appointment of the day was with Champagnes oldest house- Ruinart, which was founded way back in 1729. They have been shipping Champagne for 47 years more than we have been a country! I thought that their 2004 Ruinart "Dom Ruinart" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne stood out. It is composed of all Grand Cru Chardonnay with 69% sourced from the Cotes de Blancs and the balance sourced from Sillery and Puisieulx, two sites on the north face of the Mountain of Reims. With ten years of ageing on the lees, the wine has wonderful vanilla cake dough richness, but is still vibrant and fresh. The characteristic chalky drive of the classic 2004 vintage makes for a long, bright finish, and this wine should continue to improve for decades. Unlike many big names, their vintage program, which this Blanc de Blanc is just one part of, represents only 1% of their production. The high degree of selection really shows!

The P2 Rose 1995 is a rare and wonderful treat!

From Dom Perignon we were fortunate enough to taste the 1995 Dom Pérignon "P2" Brut Rosé Champagne which they have held back for 9 more years in the cellar than the current “P1” release of 2004. It still had the signature DP yeastiness, but after 21 years of ageing in perfect conditions, the savory, complex smokiness and delicate red fruit were in perfect harmony with the lees character. It was one of the most elegant, delicate and long finishing Champagnes of the whole day.

The 2008 Clicquot Rose was worth concentrating hard on- and Alex gave it the attention it deserved!

We also revisited the 2008 Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé Champagne which I first had with Mr. DeMarville, chef de cave of Clicquot, paired with a long roasted chicken. The 2008 vintage has rightly been hailed as a great one in Champagne, and this Veuve Clicquot Rose is a great example of this fantastic harvest. The wine has incredible power and a nearly Burgundian savor to it which was very satisfying with the food. It also has the clarity and lift of the highest acid vintage since 1996. This is a wine for the ages... But it will be very difficult to keep my hands off of now!

The Krug Grand Cuvee nearly stole the show- the one we tasted was ID 115003, the 163rd edition of this great wine. It was fabulously rich and showed some barrel spice and Chevalier-Montrachet like lime fruit. This bottle was based on 2007 and composed of 12 vintages going back to 1990. The blend was 37% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay and 31% Meunier- darn near 1/3 each. Of all the great, mature wines in the world, Krug has to be the best deal of all… They do so much of the ageing for us Champagne lovers!

My favorite vintage wine of the day was the 2004 Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne. It epitomized the ideal of elegance in wine, and had a creamy ease and subtle restraint that would leave even the most jaded of palates asking for another glass. The incredible fruit sources in the Grand Cru’s of Chouilly, Mesnil and Avize and the natural balance of the classic 2004 vintage undoubtedly contributed top quality ingredients, but the cold fermentations and judicious use of top quality cooperage at Billecart delivered the wine… This is a bottle I hope to drink again soon.

Kathleen and Naomi brought Tours-sur-Marne to us with a great lineup from Laurent Perrier.

The most meticulously prepared of all of the presentations was Champagne Laurent-Perrier, and after the tasting and talk I was left with a new appreciation for the history and commitment to quality at this great house in Tours-sur-Marne. I loved the 2006 Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne for its laid back balance and excellent texture. It is composed of half each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir entirely from Grand Cru sites and aged for eight years on the lees. If you like your Champagne with a great balance between meyer lemon zing and creamy richness, this has it all.

For many years now, Champagne Louis Roederer has been leading the way in progressive practices in the vineyard in the region. This approach showed in the wines at this year’s staff summit, and in a quite spectacular way. The wines of Roederer really have a shine to them, and the soon to be released 2009 Louis Roederer "Cristal" Brut Champagne exemplifies this luminescent style. Roederer has been the largest organic vineyard owner in Champagne for many years, and this is the first year that Critstal has been made exclusively from these organic, mid slope, pure chalk sites. The ripe vintage of 2009 has made for a precocious wine that is already showing much more aroma and giving much more pleasure than Cristal normally does when first released. That being said, this is a chalky, complex, detailed Champagne that has decades and decades of time to shine!

It is no surprise that at 10 years old, many of the 2006 Champagnes are really starting to show well. The best I tasted at this year’s staff summit was the 2006 Pol Roger "Extra Cuvée de Réserve" Brut. This is one of the most masculine, vinous, broad and powerful Champagnes of the day. It is composed of about 60% Pinot Noir to 40% Chardonnay, but that Pinot is powerful Mountain of Reims Grand and 1er cru stuff… And it shows! I loved the big, hazelnut and black cherry savor in this rich, yet very dry Champagne. This will be a top recommendation for anyone married in 2006 or with a child born in this year, because while it drinks well now, it will be great for a long, long time.

The best non-vintage of our whole Champagne summit was the Drappier "Carte d'Or" Brut Champagne. That is saying a lot, since we tasted so many greats! This combination of 75% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier and 10% Chardonnay is made with the lowest sulfur counts of any grand marque Champagne. The fruit for this is all from the Aube and Kimmeridgian clay rather than the chalk of the Marne. It is also mostly estate grown. This gives Champagne not only with the lovely red fruit expression one would expect from so much Pinot, but also layers of nearly Chablis like minerality. If you like dry, yet full flavored Champagne, you it to yourself to try the Drappier!

The historic Ay property Ayala has made quite a comeback since Bollinger purchased and invested in so many upgrades. While they are from a Pinot Noir town, they have always been famous for their Chardonnay driven, lighter style that contrasts with their sister property Bollinger. Their 2008 Ayala Blanc de Blancs Champagne was the star of the lineup for me, and is sourced exclusively from the Grand Crus of Mesnil and Chouilly. While this Champagne has the great chalky drive of the 2008 vintage, I was surprised by how open it showed. I love the creamy, nearly brie like nose that is framed by high quality toast and the medium to full bodied texture. This should last- it you can keep your hands off of it!

Perhaps the most complex wine of the whole staff summit was the 2004 Bollinger "La Grande Année" Rosé Champagne. While Lilly Bollinger refused to make rose at the property during her lifetime, calling it “Champagne for prostitutes” this ultimately classy bottle proves that even the greats of the Champagne world could get it wrong from time to time. The wine has a lovely copper pink color and a beguiling bouquet of savory black truffle, brioche and subtle Corton like dark fruit. On the palate the wine is not nearly as vinous as the Grand Année blanc, and has an amazingly tiny bead. What a treat.

We were very lucky to have Gosset export director Bertrand Verduzier come from Epernay to present his Champagne at the summit this year, and we learned a ton about this very old grand marque. Their flag ship wine is the Gosset "Grande Réserve" Brut Champagne, and it is an exceptional wine. The current batch is composed of 43% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir and 15% Meunier with 20% reserves that are blended in the solera style. They never do any malolactic fermentation for this wine, and as such need to age it for a minimum of 4 years on the lees before disgorgement. It has an almost green color in the glass, and has a great tension between opulent toast and chalky, nearly apple like crunch. If you like this Champagne, be sure to put some in the cellar, I have had them going back 30 years and they are spectacular with age as well as young!

The most decadent bottle of the whole staff summit was the 2005 Charles Heidsieck Brut Champagne. This blend of 11 crus is composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir and aged for 8 years on the lees. It is loaded with buttered toast aromas and is deep, rich and broad. The bead is very precise and fine while the wine itself is full bodied. If you love the full English style of Champagne, this is the best bottle in the store!

Always classic, the 2006 Comtes delivers some great exoticism as well!

Our final appointment of this year’s summit was with Taittinger, and the 2006 Taittinger "Comtes de Champagne" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne was the perfect bottle to perk up tired mouths. I found the limey, Puligny-like drive of this Champagne compelling and refreshing, and was happy to see this vintage living up to the legend of the Comtes de Champagne. This all Cote de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne is sourced from primarily estate vineyards in Avize, Chouilly, Oger and Mesnil. It is 95% fermented in stainless, but sees 5% small oak to add richness. The combination of toast from 8 years on the lees and lime zest from the top Chardonnay make for an exotic, yet elegant beauty of a Champagne.

It was a long day of tasting, but I came away with the impression that times have never been better for quality in Champagne. It is a tough job- but someone has to do it!

-Gary Westby

Friday
Aug052016

Veuve Clicquot Rich

Redwood City managers Sarah and Andrew enjoying a goblet of rich while closing the store.

Champagne should be fun. It can be as profound and complex as any of the greatest wines in the world, but it should always be fun. The Veuve Clicquot "Rich" Doux Champagne ($54.99) is definitely a whole lot of fun, and I had to lighten up quite a bit to enjoy it in the spirit that it was intended for.  It is my job to think about the impacts of geology, exposure, grape variety and élevage on Champagne, but it is important not to forget why I need to know all of that stuff- it is simply to understand better the Champagne we all love. If you don’t like it, if it’s not fun, there is no point to all of the other stuff.

Most nights at closing we’ll have a beer or a glass of Champagne after the doors are shut and while we are finishing up the end of day duties. Opening up this bottle turned this routine into quite an event! We had lots of laughs drinking this sweet, yet refreshing Champagne in our goblets loaded with ice and dotted with cucumbers. We were not trying to figure out which villages stared in the blend or parse out the varietal composition. We were having fun.

By the time I finished my glass, I had lightened up a lot!

This Champagne is made to be served on ice, and accompanied by a fresh highlight ingredient. The folks from Veuve Clicquot have imagined many combinations, and you can take a look at all of them here. I had recently been by the Niyija Market in Mountain View and bought some very nice Japanese cucumbers, so I packed up my cutting board and my Nakiri to prep them after closing. I put two thin slices at the bottom of each goblet, loaded the goblets with ice, poured in the Champagne, through another cucumber slice in and decorated the rim with one more. That was all there was to it.

We got a huge laugh of the frivolity of drinking Champagne like this- the opposite of the Lehman Refrence Glass, intellectually engaged studiousness of most of our tasting here at K&L. Best of all, the wine tasted good. This is the sweetest Champagne we carry, and although you have to search the label carefully, it is labeled as Doux, the sweetest designation on the ladder of dosage. This designation applies to all Champagne at 50 grams per liter or greater of sugar, and is historically the original style of sparkling Champagne. The Clicquot Rich is dosed at 60 grams per liter, 10 times the sugar of some of our drier Bruts, and composed of 45% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier and 15% Chardonnay.

Dominique DeMarville, the chef de cave of Clicquot who I met earlier this year, says “Sugar in Champagne is like spice in a recipe, used correctly it can bring out specific aromas and enhance the taste.” I have only done a dosage trial once, with Mr. Bruno Michel in Pierry, and the complex relationship that Champagne flavors have with sugar surprised and baffled me. This time, with an icy goblet in hand, I wasn’t wondering or taking notes… I was drinking and smiling!

-Gary Westby

Monday
Jun132016

Redwood City Wine Locker Party!

Jim Barr and Heather Gowen consider the merits of solera style Monsant.

Last Sunday, Sarah Covey, our Redwood City store manager invited the team over to her lovely home in Emerald Hills for a barbeque. It was a wine locker party; the idea being that we would all bring a few bottles of those wines from our collections that are hard to find an occasion for. The wines ran the gamut from blue chips that were meant perfect for an all pro-tasting to the truly odd! As always, more of the wines than we hoped showed very well… It is always when one thinks that one is getting rid of a strange wine that it turns out to be wonderful!

The grill was full of good stuff; Jim Barr made his famous burgers and folks brought steaks and many different sausages. Chris, Jim’s wife, baked excellent home-made burger buns and folks brought salads, macaroons, cakes and everything else one could hope to eat. The bottles outnumbered people by at least two to one! The lineup was extensive, varied, wonderful and weird!

Opening all of these bottles was quite a job, luckily, we had many pros like Alex Schroeder on hand to get the job done.

2001 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Léognan

My wine of the night was the 2001 Chevalier Blanc. I have never had a white wine with that age showing so much vitality and fresh fruit and acidity, yet still presenting incredible depth of flavors and lasting for minutes on my palate! I would love to see how it tastes down the road too.- Heather Gowen

 

This star bright, nearly green colored white wine would have fooled me for current release blind. It had both sweaty Sauvignon character and lanolin-like Semillon flavors. It delivered on the promise of top end white Bordeaux with perfect medium body, and fabulous high toned length. Proof that 100% new oak is not always a bad thing! –Gary Westby

Jim Barr’s favorite dry white of the night.

Jean Josselin "Cuvee des Jean" Brut Champagne

Very fresh, very Pinot, very fun! This bright, refreshing, red cherry fruit style Aube Champagne was great to return to between glasses of big, savory red wine. –Gary Westby

2007 Pyin OO Levin Starwberry Wine, Burma

I don’t know where this bottle came from, or how it ended up in my cellar, but it surprised me by just tasting like good, simple, strawberry wine. Burma- who knew? –Gary Westby

1990 Gaja Barbera d'Alba "Vignarey"

This woodsy, evolved, black fruit style Barbera was outstanding with my hot Italian sausage! Thank you Alex for bringing this 26 year old in its prime to the party!- Gary Westby

1999 Domaine Jean Tardy Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots"

I made the mistake of drinking all of my bottles of this too early, and I owe a big thank you to Jim Barr for not only having the appropriate patience but also the generosity to share it with us. At this time, Tardy was share cropping these old Pinot Noir vines for none other than Meo-Camuzet. It had a great beet like, savory NSG nose, which carried through on the pallet impressively. It was sweet and full bodied, with texture that only time can bring. Wow! –Gary Westby

2007 Ridge Vineyards "Monte Bello" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon

A baby, but ripe enough to enjoy with grilled fair today, this was the darkest, most powerful wine of the night, yet did not lack grace… Monte Bello truly is a magic site. I think I would have guessed 2005 top class St. Julien blind. All of that new American oak had been absorbed by the power of some of the greatest Cabernet the golden state has planted. This wine had it all, and finished with silky, ripe integrated tannin. –Gary Westby

Jim Barr’s favorite red of the night!

2004 Clos de la Tech "Domaine Docteur Rodgers" Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

Most disappointing would definitely have to be the 2004 Clos de la Tech PN. Although I can sometimes appreciate juicy, fruit-forward Pinot, this was just showing all the holes and faults with a little age--my take away: if you have to drink ripe, over-extracted Pinot, drink it quite young. –Heather Gowen

 

This thick, sarsaparilla filled Pinot was quite tannic. –Gary Westby

2008 Painted Wolf Pinotage Swartland

Pinotage is always controversial, and this milky, burnt rubber smelling bottle brought out lots of conversation. I found it hot, a little hollow, but not nearly as strange as they come! –Gary Westby

Jim Barr’s least favorite wine of the night.

Etim Ranci Montsant

This blend of Grenache and Carignane was made like Madera in demi-johns exposed to the elements, and blended across time in a solera. I found it very soft for an oxidized style. It was nice enough, but was flabby compared to real Madera or Sherry. –Gary Westby

2004 Vereinigte Hospitien Scharzhofberger Kabinett

This was a huge Kabinett, solidly in the Spatlese zone and had a rich white peach nose, great polish and a blue slate finish. –Gary Westby

1985 Estancia Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

This was one of the few tired wines of the night. It had a faded tea leaf nose, but still had good texture. It was short finishing, but not terrible.

2004 Edgewood Canyon Alexander Valley Syrah Magnum (Jim Barr- winemaker)

I was NOT surprised that many of the stars of the night were brought by Jim Barr, including his very own 2004 Edgewood Canyon Syrah.  It had rich, concentrated fruit with a bouquet of eucalyptus, black pepper and blackberry.  Its tannins were so smooth and lush, and it grew more and more interesting throughout the night (yeah, I kept going back to it).  It was refreshing to see a wine born not of demographic studies, marketing strategy or graphic design, but out of an unadulterated passion for wine-making.  Well done, Jim. –Alex Schroeder

 

My best experience ever with a domestic Syrah… Too bad none is for sale!!!! This magnum had an amazing, smoky, camphor and meat nose backed up with great medium bodied poise and refreshing acidity. I thought it tasted like a properly aged Alain Graillot and have never had anything like it from California. –Gary Westby

2003 Bonny Doon "Old Telegram" Mourvèdre

This simple, short but tasty Mourvedre had a distinct Betty Crocker cake mix nose, nice enough balance and showed some appropriate development. –Gary Westby

1982 Bully Hill "Love my Goat" Red Wine, New York

We knew there was trouble when the cork offered no resistance to my corkscrew (or oxygen) and we had to push it in.  It poured out a viscous rusty yellow color, smelled of dust and oxidation, and offered my palate NO pleasure.  I hate to generalize, but I might avoid wines that have pictures of goats and New York on the label from now on. - Alex Schroeder

 

2000 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese

 

This was a great example of many German wine producers favorite style of sweet wine- a big, non-botrytis auslese! This polished wine had great fresh yellow apricot fruit, rich texture, no petrol notes at all in spite of its 16 years, and a top class slatey, high acid finish. Thanks for opening this Sarah! Leakers from Germany forever!

 

1976 Von Plettenberg  Winzenheimer Rosenheck Riesling Beerenauslese

This was classic, rich, thick 1976 German juice. While not particularly elegant or complex, it had very good dried apricot flavors and a ton of power.

Jim Barr’s favorite dessert white of the night.

1980 JW Morris California Port

This had had a lot of dried fruit character and even a little old zin like rubber to it. In the mouth it had a lot of ripe, sweet, dark fruit- this stuff was more than alive… It has time in hand! I don’t think they are going to put the winemakers of the Douro out of business, but this sure was a great after dinner drink.

1970 Warre's Vintage Port

This was my wine of the night. Sarah generously opened this up- and all though it had leaked and the cork was a horror show, the wine inside was transcendent. This 46 year old was a kaleidoscope of complexity with spice, dried fancy fruit and rooty depth. The finish was near endless and the tannins were completely evolved. I hope I am in such good shape when I turn 46 in a couple of years! –Gary Westby

Jim Barr’s favorite dessert red of the night.

As usual at a K&L staff party, the bottles outnumbered the people!

I was happy to let Uber do the driving after this huge lineup!

Gary Westby