I had the great fortune to accompany Gary on his most recent trip to Champagne. Of the all the producers we visited; all our direct imports, two grand marques and some others, with the limited amount of space I have been given, two producers illustrate what I learned about Champagne, De Meric and Leclerc Briant. . Interestingly both are NMs but their scale of production is smaller than some RMs. As a small negociant, De Meric does not own any of their own vines. They get their fruit from growers whom they feel do everything right. In their caves they have barriques, foudres and stainless steel tanks, all of which are used to impart their own particular characteristics. They also use partial malolactic fermentation. What does this give to their wines? Complexity! You get broader wines with texture from the various oaks, more vinous and varied fruit tones, minerality, toastiness and creaminess—great champagne. This just describes the De Meric “Sous Bois” Brut ($27.99). In the Catherine de Medici, take the above description and increase the intensity and length.
Leclerc Briant for me is all about vineyards. We stood above the the “Clos de Champion” ($29.99) tasted chardonnay from “Chevres Pierreus” ($29.99) and then visited “la Coisete,” a vineyard located within the city of Epernay, and right behind Pascal Leclerc Briant’s house. Because of its unique chalky soil, it is planted solely to chardonnay. Yes, we will be getting this very unique Blanc de Blanc in! Leclerc Briant farms biodynamically and has been working organically since the late ’60s. It was great to hear his insights to the politics of the CVIC, farming and terroir. As always you can get a great deal of information about these wines from Gary, or stop by the city store, and I will gladly chew the Champagne fat with you!
—Kirk Walker

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The Traveller was restless. He had traversed the countryside in an attempt to find the perfect place: to plant vineyards, to find contentment, to live. He passed by myriad wondrous hues of green, admired the vast yellow carpets of flowering blooms that seemed to reflect the sun back into the sky. He rested in shady nooks of stone, drank at percolating brooks unknown, squinting at the broken mirror as he quenched his thirst. He found beauty but not perfection.
Each night the Traveller rested his face to the stars. They seem perfect, he mused. These stars gave hope to the Traveller that he would find what he was seeking. He slept with his dreams tracing the night sky.
Each day was filled with the many small things that make up a life, but the Traveller was focused on his quest. He tasted the wares of the wine properties that dotted the hillsides like wildflowers, and noted the irony that no wine was completely perfect. Maybe his dream was folly. Was perfection only a way to gauge the imperfect, existing only in the abstract and nowhere else?
A cloudy darkness descended. Despite no compass of stars to illuminate, the Traveller found a smooth, leafy bed and closed his eyes…
The morning was as brilliantly clear as the peal of a church bell on a winter morn. The Traveller ambled to his feet, the mist of dreams disappearing from his eyes.
But these eyes he could not believe.
It was perfect. This land- the vineyard, the birds and animals. The fruit trees and the brook. The untilled pasture. All perfect!
“Lovely, isn’t it?” The Traveller turned to the voice, and the woman that belonged to it. “Yes, it is,” said the Traveller. “I would like to offer whatever you wish for it. I would like to make it mine.”
“Well, you can make it yours, and stay as long as you like. I’ve been here only a short while, but I know I’ll stay forever. But it is not for sale,” she said with laughter in her eyes. “Do you wish to stay?”
“Yes, I would like that very much.” The Traveller turned away and waved his hat in an arc. “What do you call this piece of land?”
The woman smiled. “Heaven, of course.”
Until you get there, enjoy the beauty of the now.
And nothing is perfect.
Goodbye Patrice.
—Joe Zugelder

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Our Burgundy buyer, Keith Wollenberg, has recently scored big time with two wine gems. First, he nailed the beautiful 2004 Domaine Renaud Mâcon Solutré ($10.99), which has a pronounced nose of minerality and pippin apples with hints of dried rose petals. Along with its lush, viscous mouthfeel, you will be treated to a wine that is well defined and structured leading to a long, clean, crisp finish.
One of my favorite house whites the last five years has been the none vintage Plaisir des Princes Chardonnay ($6.99). It is a declassified Mâcon from a single vintage (not declared on the label). This version is the best to date and one of my favorite wines in the store. It has this lovely minerality of a vineyard designated Mâcon: viscosity, depth, and of course personality. This is Mâcon in spades, and as Keith says, “If is walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, and looks like a duck but sells for peanuts, who cares what they call it?”
Mulan discovered a sparkling wine from Southern France that will rival anything twice its price. The non-vintage Jean-Louis Denois “Tradition” ($14.99) is a southern French sparkler that will knock your socks off. A lovely nose of fresh lemon zest, with a touch of nuttiness and yeastiness, leads to a palate impression that is dry, clean, yet mouthwatering and crisp. This is remarkable stuff that will rival the real thing that sells for much, much more.
Those of you who are still grieving the sold-out 2004 Kirkham Peak Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand will be elated to know that our newly arrived 2004 Griffin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10.99) is the same wine. This wine is loaded with ripe grapefruit to lime peel qualities, both on the nose and across its clean, crisp, mouthwatering set of flavors. On the finish there is a hint of white peach to go along with an excellent acid structure. According to Eby, this is the perfect wine to go with cracked crab.
If you have any questions please email us at jimbarr@klwines.com. Have a wonderful holiday season! —Jim, Anderson, and Eby

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First, an update on the January German/Austria tasting with Terry Theise and friends: We are absolutely having it, and it will be great and life changing. At the time of this writing I can tell you it’s on Saturday, January 21 at Coco 500 (near our SF store). Cost yet to be determined. Log onto www.klwines.com for details. See you there!! Now on to new business...
As you read this there should be a ship called the Carada docking here in the bay carrying some great Rheingau Rieslings from our dear friend August Kesseler in Assmannshausen. Mr. Kesseler runs along with superstar cellar master Max Himstedt one of the top estates in the Rheingau for Riesling and possibly THE top estate in Germany for Pinot Noir. Assmannshausen is located just around the bend from Rüdesheim at the northwestern end of the Rheingau, a village long reputed for its red wines. The estate is about 20 hectares with vines in the Höllenberg in Assmannshausen and in Rüdesheim the Berg Schlossberg, Berg Roseneck, and Bischofsberg totaling about 50% riesling and 45% spätburgunder. Yields are kept low, on average about
45 hl/ha and the style here is in one word sleek. The Rieslings are racy and bright, on the drier side and in 2004 posses a clarity and precision not often found in the Rheingau. We are bringing in a smattering of his ’04s and just a tiny bit of the high end pinots for those of you like me who are in love with them. Here’s the line up:
2004 August Kesseler Estate Riesling ($11.99) my vote for best value German wine this year, you just don’t get this much wine for the price anymore. This comes across as positively Nahe or even Mosel as it is so clean and refreshing with subtle undercurrents of minerals and fresh pears. 2004 Berg Roseneck Spätlese ($19.99) here is the yin to Mr. Leitz’s yang, both great Roseneck Spätlesen but such different expressions, this has laser like focus and firm mineral structure, very compact and revved up compared to the grandness of Leitz’s textural masterwork, this is what makes these wines fun. This next wine was created for the foods August found in his travels around the world though he does hint that it was SF that inspired this wine with our diverse modern cuisine. The 2004 530.3 Spätlese ($25.99), from Schlossberg and Roseneck, is so named for the navigation marker on the Rhine that sits just below this portion of Schlossberg. Made in a slightly drier style to complement more types of cuisine, especially Asian influenced dishes. Firm, powerful and full of minerals. There are also small quantities of a gorgeous 2004 Bischofsberg Spätlese Gold Capsule ($25.99) and the Pinots 2003 Spätburgunder ($22.99), 2002 and 2003 Höllenberg Spätburgunder ($57.99). Live in the
Light! —Jeff Vierra

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Ahhhh, the holiday season, is, without question, the busiest time of the year for so many of us. Family, friends, shopping, cooking, entertaining and, of course, the dreaded wrapping. So, with that in mind I shall stay off my soap box and keep it simple and to the point. Walking through the store the other day and realizing what has suddenly been thrust upon us, I thought I would write about wines that I would either love to receive as a gift (hint, hint family and friends who read this) or wines that would help me get through these hectic times. I think I found a few that will fit the bill.
2002 Weingut Smelz Riesling “Stein am Rain” Federspiel ($17.99) A refreshing little bugger that is structurally packed full of minerality and zippy acidity, racing across your palate. You will be treated to the bright essence of citrus fruits spiked with exotic spices that melt into the back of your palate and a finish that is as crisp and bright as the cold winter air just outside your window.
2002 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg ($34.99) This is a powerhouse that is surrounded by grace and beauty. A wine that is full of ripe melons dusted with white pepper leading you into a ripe, juicy, forgiving palate of delicate minerality and intensity. This is one of those gems that you can drink tonight or rediscover in ten years’ time and truly understand why this is a wine of legend (plus maybe really understand the power behind the label on this beauty). Yes, I am purposely not describing the label; you have to see it to believe it!
2003 Nigl Riesling “Privat” ($49.99) Don’t let the 2003 vintage fool you; this is something special. While having 2003 characteristics, the wine-making skills and the old vines that help create this wine ensure a quality that shines, and I promise, you will not be disappointed. Ripe fruit, teaming with fleshy white peaches, (I'm not just saying this), Christmas spices, a subtle tinge of minerality and a balance that is focused and pure.
—Eric Story

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2001 Vina Izadi Rioja Crianza ($14.99)
2001 Vina Izadi Rioja Reserva ($23.99)
I love the wines from Vina Izadi! The winery is located in the heart of the Basque section of the Rioja known as the Rioja Alavesa. Grown on calcareous clay soils, tempranillo achieves great richness and delicacy. Both the Crianza and the Reserva wines are from the fabulous 2001 vintage, which is the greatest vintage in Rioja since 1964. The wines are made from a blend of 90% tempranillo, 5% graciano and 5% mazuelo. Aged for 14 months in American oak, the Crianza is full of ripe black cherry fruit with a solid core of structure and tannin. Enjoy this wine now with braised pork shoulder, or it has plenty of stuffing to age for several years. The Reserva wine, made only in the best of years, is aged for 25 months in a mix of French and American oak. Big and bold, this red has plenty of rich, ripe fruit intermingled with aromas of spice cake and vanilla. The power and depth of this wine make it a great cellar candidate of 5 to 10 years.
2001 Arzuaga Crianza, Ribera del Duero ($26.99)
2003 Pago Florentino, Arzuaga, La Mancha ($15.99)
Founded in 1990, Bodegas Arzuaga-Navarro is located right next door to the venerable Vega Sicilia. Florentino Arzuaga makes Riberas of great depth and elegance. Made from a blend of tinto fino (aka tempranillo) with a bit of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, their 2001 Crianza shows all the hallmarks of this top vintage. Round, ripe blackberry/cherry fruit is balanced with a long elegant finish. This wine would do well with 3-7 years time in your cellar. The Pago Florentino is their new project in La Mancha. Made from 100% cencibel, the local name for tempranillo, the wine is aged for 8 months in a mixture of French and American oak. The big flashy, ripe fuit and long spicy finish make this wine a great choice for the local specialty, Manchego cheese!
Buen Provecho! —Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com

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2002 Stony Hill Chardonnay ($26.99) This chardonnay has always been my favorite in
California. This chardonnay is beautifully balanced with tropical fruit, melon and apple. Good acidity with now oak showing in the mouth or nose. Perfect!
2002 Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon ($59.99) This cabernet was in my top 5 in 2001. The 2002 was a bit unbalanced when I tried it 6 months ago but it has definitely found itself now. A fruit-forward style of cab with great structure and finesse. This wine is great now but will hold for another 10 years.
1999 Whitethorn “Hyde” Pinot Noir ($34.99) My favorite pinot in the store and a favorite for all the staff in San Francisco. This wine is almost perfect. Cherry fruit, balance, spice and earthiness all rolled up with a seamless finish. If you love pinot, this wine is a must. Perfect for any holiday dinner or party.
2003 Woodenhead “Buena Tierra” Pinot ($44.99) I wrote up the 2002 in October, and the 2003 definetly deserves to get your attention. A more forward style of pinot, with raspberry, cassis and hints of white pepper and earth. Made by William Selyem veteran Nikolai Stez. 86 cases produced. Happy Holidays, and see you in the City... —Mike Jordan

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This month winter, holiday parties and gift giving begin. What better time to tell you about four different cabs…. One is destined to fit in that special someone’s stocking!
2002 Benziger Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon ($12.99) MMMMM, Lots of sweet blackberry fruit mingled with toasty oak on the nose promises something special here, and doesn’t disappoint. Round, smooth, medium-weight, this tasty treat is bound to grace many holiday parties this year. In the California style of cult-y wines, just a bit more reserved. If you are a fan of the “big gun” Cali Cabs, try this economy version of the same. I’m sure Santa will make sure you are on the “good” side of the list if you pour this for him.
2003 Caymus Napa Cabernet ($64.99) Here’s a big deal Cali Cab that you must know by now. Juicy, plump, round, ripe, black cherry, cassis, red currants, vanillin oak, and ready to drink! Classic Caymus, without the wait. This warm-vintage Caymus is ready to go, so drink up while you’re waiting for your ageing wines to come around!
2002 Roth Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($34.99) All estate fruit, blended with a little merlot plus a touch of cabernet franc. The Roth shows solid and structured notes of black fruits, coffee and a little tobacco on the nose leading into a wonderfully refined palate of black cherry, cassis syrup, elusive spicy notes and fine velvety tannins. This is a serious wine-lovers Cab. Not overly flashy or new wave, this is a beautifully harmonic wine with style and grace. A perfect wine for a dinner party.
2001 Mount Eden Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon ($29.99) I love this wine! And it is showing the best it ever has right now. An extraordinary rich and complex nose tinged with rose petal, cola, cassis and a bit of mint leads into a serious mouthful of very exciting, intensely fruited cabernet laced with anise, cinnamon, truffles, mocha… This wine simply evolves and evolves revealing layer after layer and getting better and better. Not to stop there, the finish goes on revealing subtle notes of vanillin oak, coffee and a sweet lingery black cherry. Have a wonderful and safe holiday season! —Shaun Green

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The warm fuzzy feeling I get right about this time of the year can only mean one thing... I’ve been drinking some great Zinfandels recently! Yes, the most joyous, generous, luscious elixir of our Golden State, with its heady perfumes and decadent flavors is just perfect for December. You better believe I have some great choices up my sleeve:
If there can be such a thing as grace and elegance within power, the 2002 Storybook Mountain “Mayacamas Range” Napa Zinfandel ($25.99) achieves it. Deep in the heart of Cabernet country, legendary owner/winemaker Jerry Seps has been quietly making world-class Zinfandel for over 20 years. This refined effort shows the beautiful and classy side of the powerful grape. True, premium, dinner-friendly Zinfandel is so hard to come by nowadays, but you’ll find exactly that here! Not too hot or too ripe, it’s just right for a fairytale romantic evening for two.
2002 Storrs “Rusty Ridge” Santa Clara Zinfandel ($24.99) Santa Clara Zinfandel, yes indeed! This wine’s made up of a couple old vineyards perched on two ridges of rust-colored, iron-rich volcanic soils that add a touch of personality, as you’d expect. Dry farming and meticulous attention produced a wine of amazing concentration and varietal identity. One
of the rare, but incredible Zinfandels made entirely from Bay Area fruit.
2003 Scott Harvey “Old Vine” Amador Zinfandel ($19.99) Old-vine Zins achieve some of their greatest expressions and concentration in Amador County, and this wine’s a fine example. The tarry, spicy deep black fruit comes out strong and persuasive. The nose reminds me of those Christmasy sweet baking aromas of nutmeg and clove that warm the heart and soften the worries of the day. In fact, this one just begs for a fireplace, the clink of glassware and the hum of joyous holiday parties! Enjoy!
—Martin Reyes

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When giving a gift for Christmas or New Years, there is always one constant: You want the gift to make an impression on the person who receives it. Something that is recognizable in its name as well as being high quality. Nothing says Happy Holidays like a bottle of Cabernet, especially from Napa Valley. The 2001 Trefethen Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($29.99) not only makes a great gift, but it is also a delicious wine to drink. Crafted from a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot, this 2001 is rich in the nose with red berry-cherry fruit and enticing cedar cigar box aromas. The hillside fruit adds spice and dusty characteristics. The palate is lush and full. The use of oak is masterfully integrated so as to provide perfect spice without an overshadowing influence. This is wine can be enjoyed now but will develop over the next five years or so in a cellar. The next wine I would recommend would be the 2001 Paradigm Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.99). This comes from the Oakville appellation, the heart of the Napa Valley. It shows a big, rich structure and balance, with a hint of cedar, plums and mint. It will definitively open up with decanting. Drink over the next 10 years. Of course, if you want to go all out this year pick up a bottle of 2002 Joseph Phelps Napa “Insignia” ($109.00) for that special someone. This wine is a monster in its weight and fruit component. Amazingly, the wine still comes of soft and fleshy. This is due to the tannins being so ripe and integrated, and the fruit being as intense as it is. This wine will age but it does show a lot better than the 2001 did at this stage. If you are looking for a soft, rich and ripe Cab to bring to a dinner this holiday season, look no further than the 2002 Pine Ridge Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99). This wine shows a lush, rich texture and plenty of spicy berry and currant fruit that lingers on to the finish. So for the holidays this year, forget about a silk tie or keychain for a gift; stick to Cabernet, and you can’t go wrong!

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This holiday season I have decided that my gift giving will fall under two categories. Not because this will make my life easier (admittedly, it will), but because books and wine are two things that have enriched my life exponentially. I can honestly say that I have never, ever regretted buying a book. Each time I recall some memorable literary fact or experience I am so grateful that I invested in myself by taking the time to read a book. For me, this same sentiment goes for wine, as I have never regretted pulling a bottle of wine from my modest cellar to enjoy with family or friends. Opening a bottle of wine that I purchased, let’s say 10 years ago, is like reconnecting with an old friend, or re-reading one of my favorite books. Great wines grow more deep, complex and beautiful as they age. Each time I drink a great wine, I thank myself for investing in this life lesson and only hope that I will age half as gracefully. One such wine that I will not regret keeping in my cellar is the 2003 Côte Rotie Bernard Burgaud ($49.99). This northern Rhône syrah is simply superb, exhibiting wonderful ripe cherry, kirsch and rich, meaty flavors. On the finish, notes of sous bois, black olives and smoke provide additional complexity and dimension. And despite the atypically warm 2003 vintage, this Côte Rotie displays a substantial amount of acidity (this is a good thing!).
I have purchased several bottles of this vinous beauty for myself and for gifts this holiday season, and am looking forward to reconnecting with this old friend in 5 or 10 years. —Mulan Chan

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I adore a glass of bubbles! Champagne or sparkling, traditional or methode ancestale, a glass of bubbles is often my go-to wine, my “energy drink” for when I am in need of a bit of sophistication and verve in my life. This month I have two sparkling wines that fit the this description. They are also, for different reasons, delicious!
NV Cerdon du Bugey Methode Ancestrale Domaine Renardat-Fache ($16.99) Mon Dieu, this wine is good! A sip of this demi-sec sparkling rosé (located near Savoie in eastern France) is like caressing a soft cheek or getting licked on the nose by the cutest puppy in the world. Rose petals, crushed sweet strawberries and vibrant cranberry twang make this sparkling wine a perfect option as an aperitif, or with spicier Thai, Vietnamese or Indian fare. My good customer Jay Denao has also reported that a glass of Cerdon de Bugey with fresh strawberries and rose water-infused whipped crème is sublime. YOWZAH!! Feeling overworked, or under-appreciated? Just pour yourself a glass of Cerdon de Bugey, look in the mirror at your beautiful, smart sexy self and say, “I love me!”
A second offering is once again from the man, the master, Jean-Louis Denois. I remain in awe of this vintner, who crafts wines of seamless beauty and elegance time and time again. Our most recent arrival is the 2002 Jean-Louis Denois Tradition Brut ($14.99), which is composed of 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir from vineyard sites located at the foothill of the Pyrenees near the town of Roquetaillade. The climate in the western Languedoc is cool and sunny, which provides ideal growing conditions for the slow maturation of the grapes and ultimately a perfect balance between fruit and acidity. Jean-Louis first ferments the Tradition in old oak barrels. A second fermentation takes place in bottle where it then spends 18 months sur lees before being disgorged. The wine is simply gorgeous with hues of golden honey and an astonishingly long bead. On the palate hazelnuts, marzipan and a touch of sandalwood lend an element of elegance and richness to the wine which belie this bubbly’s modest price. A glass of this will be much appreciated at both festive occasions as well as the end of a hard day when you want to treat yourself right! —Mulan Chan

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2004 Griffin Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($10.99) Many of you enjoyed our Kirkham Peak sauvignon blanc from New Zealand until we ran out. Well, mourn no longer my friends, it’s back with a “new suit.” It’s a new name, but make no mistake, it still has lovely notes of pear, grapefruit, white melon, snap pea, red bell pepper and a dash of minerals. All these components are supported by juicy, refreshing acidity with excellent balance and length.
2004 Nautilus Pinot Gris Marlborough New Zealand ($15.99) This wine is a big favorite of mine. The bouquet offers floral notes with elements of pear and nectarine with a touch of spice. On the palate the wine is rich and round with good acidity and a long finish. One of the best Pinot Gris you will find from New Zealand.
2004 Majella “The Musician” Cabernet-Shiraz Coonawarra South Australia ($15.99) A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% shiraz that has a perfumed nose of red current, blackberry, mulberry, a Grave-like tobacco leaf note and a hint of mineral. On the palate the wine has a whisper of oak, but is integrated along with fine-grained tannins. The emphasis is on a fruit forward wine at a fair price to showcase the unique character of Coonawarra.
2004 Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon Robertson South Africa ($7.99) This is the third vintage we have brought in of this wine, and I think it is the most focused and balanced of the bunch. The nose is full of plum, black current, dark cherry, cassis and a hint of licorice. On the palate there is good balancing acidity with fine dusty tannins and a note of cocoa that lead to a fine refreshing finish. Buy a case to have around the house this holiday season. Happy Holidays! —Jimmy C

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2003 Vacqueyras, La Bourgeat ($14.99) This blend of old-vine syrah, grenache and mourvèdre is completely unfiltered. Add this fact to the weightiness of the 2003 vintage and you have a wine that just says “Wow, notice me!” The initial nose is one of black fruits, particularly extremely ripe black cherries. Scents of gravel and spice box also waft out of the glass. Ten minutes later, pomegranate juice makes a not so subtle appearance. On the palate, black cherries that are slightly tart come out to greet you with boysenberries and dry raspberry fruit. Good acidity and low tannin with a finish of spice and light anise. Fleshy with a medium length finish. A perfect match with wintry roasts, stews and game birds.
2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de la Cote de l’Ange ($28.99) One of most pleasurable things about this wine is the color. A beautiful, dark garnet. Hold it up to the light and see it for yourself. Pour it into the glass and watch it stick to the sides like glycerin. In the mouth, big dark blackberry and boysenberry fruit. Traces of both white and black pepper on the finish. A lengthy finish that actually improves after a couple of hours of decanting. I let this wine open up while watching two very mediocre episodes of Night Gallery from the early 1970s. It was Halloween, after all. In any case, the marvelous structure and quality of this wine offset what was not Rod Serling’s best. I think that the next time that I drink this wine, I will be watching The Twilight Zone. A quality show to go with a quality wine. Now, that’s a match! Have a very happy holiday season and many thanks for your patronage in 2005!
—Scott Beckerley

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2000 Grand Enclos du Cerons Blanc (.375ml) ($14.99) Cerons is an area just to the north of Sauternes and Barsac known for producing value-priced sweet wines. This 100% semillon is aged in oak barrels to add extra richness to the lively, tropical botrytised fruit. Zesty and complex with citrus, honey and orange, this is great with foie gras, cheese or fruit-based desserts.
2004 La Peyrere du Tertre, Clairet ($12.99) This rustic and hearty rosé is a wine of terrior, showing flavors of earth, juicy raspberry, stony minerality and rose petal. Made from a blend of 80% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon aged in oak for three months, this can definitely stand up to rich food yet has enough fruit to sip by the glass. Just 300 cases produced each year.
2000 Ch Laforge, St-Emilion ($19.99) This ridiculously low-priced offering from the glorious 2000 vintage starts out with sweet, seductive aromas of dark fruit, oak and roasting coffee. The rich palate shows flavors of sweet currants, ripe plums, mocha, minerals, toast and chocolate, which are long and mouth coating. Round, gentle and almost too easy to drink.
2000 La Cardonne, Médoc ($14.99) According to the Wine Spectator: “Lovely aromas of crushed berries, chocolate and smoke follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a clean finish. Well-done. Best after 2005.”
2001 Ch Margaux, Margaux ($164.99) The most elegant wine of the First Growths in 2001. This blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 7% petit verdot and 4% cabernet franc is seamless and complex. 93 points Parker and 92 points Spectator. —Steve Bearden

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We left off November’s Wine News with a marvelous lunch with Corinne De Bouard at Angélus featuring the 1998 and 1995 Angelus ($159.99). If we were not sky high yet from our great visit at Angélus, we certainly were when we left Petrus. Edward Moueix welcomed us to his home, walked us out into the vineyard and passionately told us that the 2005 harvest was completely done over a week ago when most were just starting to pick. With not a cloud in the 85 degree sky, he was very happy because he said in 36 hours it would be raining. He told us the intensely farmed, garden vineyard on the plateau was the key to the greatness, “we are not movie stars, we are farmers.” Just then a man came jogging down the path towards us excusing himself as he moved quickly past the group. He puts his hand on Edward’s shoulder and is telling him something, this man is visibly shaking. The man turns to our group and says, “I’m so sorry, my name is Christian and I had to tell my son that I just pulled samples of the one-week-old fermenting juice, and it’s phenomenal!”
Still shaking from pure excitement he went on to say that he did not remember the 1947, but he made the ’82, ’89 and ’98 and that this juice from 2005 may be the best he has ever tasted, and we would be the first people besides himself in the world to taste it! Electricity was in the air, we floated back to the winery all pumped up! The one-week-old merlot juice was quite tasty. I’ve locked it in my memory because it’s most likely the last time I’ll taste it!
The incredible brightness and elegance of the reds 2001,1998 and 1990 and white wines 2002 and 2001 made in the new cellar by the Bonnie Family at Malartic-Lagraviere are only surpassed by their gracious and generous hospitality. The same is always the case at Haut-Bailly, where this always classy wine, of dark red fruit and minerals, is at a new level of high quality under the direction of Veronique Sanders. The 2004 Haut-Bailly ($38.99) is superb!
After a lovely glass of 2002 Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc as an aperitif with Daniel and Florence Cathiard in the kitchen of their home, it was time to have dinner, and 29 hours after Petrus, it was pouring rain. Luckily it lasted only 20 minutes, and the Cathiards pulled out the 1961 Rouge out of magnum. As we walked back to the hotel, Les Sources de Caudalie thru the vineyard hours later there was not a puddle or mud anywhere, no sign it had rained hard.
Ch. Guiraud 2003, 2002, 2001 and some moldy grapes in the vineyard made for a memorable breakfast in Sauternes. Lunch was a fantastic visit to the Red Sands of Barsac and Ch.Climens. Bernice Lurton served us 1996 as aperitif and 1989, 1986, 1985 and 1969 with dessert, oh boy. I had 15 people asleep minutes later. The quiet farm and micro production estate of Sauternes’ best buy, Ch. Doisy Vedrines and its humble owner and winemaker Olivier Casteja, was a perfect place to end a perfect week. The 2002 Doisy Vedrines ($29.99) and 1999 were lovely.
Special thanks to all the great customers who made the trek, all our gracious friends in Bordeaux, as well as Ceclie Levin and Magda Johnson who made it all happen. Cheers to all of you!
—Ralph Sands

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I hope all of you have a healthy and happy holiday season and a fine 2006. Can you believe 2006 already? Everything from about 1960-2005 is a big blur. And the year 2006 will be K&L’s 30th Anniversary-time flies when you are having fun. Winewise, I have two gems to serve with your holiday meals-in fact they are good to enjoy all of the time. From Marlborough New Zealand, try the zippy refreshing 2004 Griffin Sauvignon Blanc ($10.99). Lip-smacking delicious! For a delicious Pinot, try the 2003 Kalinda Pinot Noir ($14.99) from Oregon. Bright, fruity, and lush.
Two plugs: K&L is the wine shop featured on the radio show “A Matter of Taste” airing on Sundays on 910AM (KNEW) from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. David and Rachel Kane have a great show. You should listen in! As for the book I enjoyed “50 Simple Ways to Live a Longer Life” by Suzanne Bohan and Glenn Thompson (two faithful K&L customers). Chapter 32 is my favorite: the health benefits of wine! Have a great 2005 ending and a fabulous 2006. —Clyde Beffa Jr

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On January 28 (Saturday), we will have an exciting Bordeaux tasting and dinner at the University Club in San Francisco. We will welcome the “Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels” nine (I said 9) outstanding châteaux and their owners/winemakers. This new Bordeaux designation includes Ch. Poujeaux, Chasse Spleen, Les Ormes de Pez, Phelan Segur, Siran, Haut Marbuzet, Potensac, Labegorce Zede, and de Pez. We will taste the excellent 2003 vintage plus an older wine from each property. $110 per person inclusive.
Mark your calendar for February 9 (Thursday) to experience 2004 Burgundies, as we start with a tasting of wines air-freighted in for this event. Then have dinner with both Veronique and Laurent Drouhin at John Bentley’s restaurant in Redwood City. The four-course dinner will include older vintage Burgundies from Drouhin and wine from Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. Cost is $100 per person, including tax and tip.

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On Thursday, September 1, 2005, I was lucky enough to be in Warehouse #2 at the Bruichladdich Distillery with Jim McEwan. We were evaluating whisky as part of my Bruichladdich Whisky Academy experience. When we got to the 1966 Lochside, the world seemed to stop and the only thing that existed was the beauty of this malt. The Lochside has been aging in a refilled Bourbon cask. What struck me first was the amazing color. The deep rich amber and gold of mature Sauternes. Right out of the cask it was so vibrant and alive, all strawberry jam and cranberries. It was one of the best malts I have ever had in my life to date! Lochside Distillery is no longer in existence, which makes this malt even more rare. It was located in city of Montrose, north of Dundee. Do not miss out on this extraordinary single malt. Buy two, one for now and one to put away for the future. You will not be disappointed! If you buy just one single malt this holiday season, make it the 1966 Lochside! —Susan Purnell

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The month of December is always full of friends and family and there is no better way to celebrate with them then by drinking Ariston Carte Blanche Brut ($22.99). This graceful, flavorful blend of 40% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 30% meunier has been aged for a full four years before being disgorged and sent directly to us here in California. For the many of you who have traveled to Champagne and stayed with the Ariston family in their home in Brouillet, the wine needs no introduction. For those of you who have not, I cannot think of a better “liquid hospitality” than this Champagne. It has a pleasant toasty aroma and flavor from its four years ageing on its yeast, and wonderful apple fruit from the steep, well-exposed vineyard sites and late harvesting policy of the Aristons. We are able to offer this fantastic Champagne at such a low price because we purchased it directly from Paul Vincent and Caroline Ariston. I hope that you will join me in drinking some of this fabulous Champagne with friends and family this year.
Another Champagne that will definitely be on my holiday table this December is the De Meric Grande Reserve “Sous Bois” Brut ($27.99). Almost everyone on the staff enjoyed this bottle at Thanksgiving, and it was a huge hit. Made in the same kind of masculine style as a Bollinger or Krug, this wine is composed of 80% pinot noir, 15% chardonnay and 5% meunier, all from grand and premier cru vineyards. Since half of the juice is fermented in old oak without malolactic fermentation, this wine has the black cherry fruit that you would expect from such a high pinot content without sacrificing any elegance or snap. It is primarily made of fruit from the very good 2000 harvest, with a small amount of 1999 and 1998 reserve wines added in. Fans of toasty style Champagne will appreciate the honest yeastiness that this long ageing on lees has given the De Meric. Once again, this wine is purchased direct from the producer, so expect it to perform way beyond its price point!
For special gifts this year I would like to recommend my very favorite
of all of the big house tete de cuveés once again. The Laurent Perrier “Grand Siecle” ($74.99) is in the real spirit of a luxury cuvee, as it represents far less than 10% of their total production. This allows them to really take the very best of their large production to make a very special wine and is a stark contrast to the gigantic production numbers of the two most famous (and far more expensive) tete de cuveés. Composed of 30% 1993, 30% 1995 and 40% 1996, the Grand Siecle (pronounced ‘See eck’) is more mature, mellow and complex than its much more expensive competitors. Made with half pinot noir and half chardonnay from seven grand cru villages, this wine has a powerful toastiness on the nose, a very refined bead and a super long finish. Hopefully one of the gift bottles will be a gift to you!
Please feel free to email me at garywestby@klwines.com or call me at 877-559-4637 ex 2728 with any Champagne questions. Please also ask to be added to my list of Champagne fans for up-to-the-minute notification on new arrivals and breaking news from the Champagne region.
My picks for December:
Ariston Carte Blanche Brut Champagne $22.99
Laurent Perrier Brut Champagne $27.99
De Meric Grande Reserve Sous Bois Brut Champagne $27.99
1996 Laurent Perrier Vintage Brut $39.99
Laurent Perrier “Grand Siecle” Champagne $74.99

A toast to you! —Gary Westby

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