We’ve been importing wonderful wines from Maison Champy, the oldest negociant in Burgundy, for several vintages. Since many of us have limited budgets after holiday spending, I’ll focus on some bargains. The 2004 Champy Chardonnay Signature ($14.99) is a favorite of many of our staff. It is made from grapes from Puligny, Meursault and Rully, and is a barrel selection of their best barrels. Its toasty and bright, with richness and toasty oak notes. The 2003 Champy St. Romain ($19.99) is from a little village in the hills, protected from the heat of the summer of 2003, and has lovely minerality. The 2003 Champy Pernand Vergelesses ($20.99) is really a little Corton-Charlemagne, and a great buy! The 2003 Champy Bourgogne Pinot Signature ($14.99) is all from the Cote d’Or, and is rich, with bright black cherry fruit and lots of length. The 2003 Champy Pernand-Vergelesses, “Les Fichots,” 1er Cru ($21.99) is from an east-facing vineyard on the back of the hill of Corton, and is flat out stunning, with blackberry spice notes, an elegant character and nice minerality threading through the wine. Don’t miss this one! Á Santé. —Keith Wollenberg