Big wines for a short month! Five generations and almost a hundred years ago, the Zannoni family arrived at La Fortuna back in 1907. The estate, wine cellar and business center, has been designed in such a way to preserve the originally beauty of the renovated Tuscan farmhouse and to respect traditions while adapting to the modern needs
of winemaking. You can contact them at info@tenutalafortuna.it if
you would like schedule a tasting or tour.
2003 La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino ($17.99)
100% sangiovese, this “baby Brunello” is a steal at this price. Black cherries and plum with sweet tobacco mingle with a nice mineral component. This medium-bodied wine shows very good acidity. Think Mom’s best lasagna recipe.
2002 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino ($36.99)
Not a misprint, Brunello under $40.00 with lush black cherry and ripe strawberries, vanilla and chocolate character and fine integrated tannins. This user-friendly Brunello drinks very well right now with a couple hours of decanting and will evolve over the next couple of years. Pork tenderloin’s a must with this sangiovese!
2003 La Fortuna IGT Sant’Antimo ($27.99)
This Super Tuscan is a blend of 40% sangiovese and 60% cabernet sauvignon and sees 10 months in French oak barrels (Allier). Extremely elegant on the palate with blackberries, blueberries and a touch of coco powder, there is great length thanks to its fine-grained tannins and rich glycerine at the end. With perfect balance through the long finish, this is something special to share with your valentine.
—Mike Parres

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Seven vintages ago we started importing wines from Ermacora, a small family winery (pronounced er-MA-ko-ra. It took me two years to get it right). They were always much better known within Italy where they’d been awarded multiple Gambero Rosso awards. We began to slowly build the brand here, year after year our sales staff suggesting these wines until now Ermacora is one of K&L's most sought after label. The brothers Ermacora (Dario & Luciano) live amongst the vines at their small winery in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, just a few miles from the Slovenian border. Although they have all the most modern technology, their motto states: “Do little, in order to do better.” True farmers at heart, they believe wine is made in the vineyard. I visited with them in Ipplis, the tiny village where they live, this past April to taste their 2004 vintage. I had just been to Vinitaly and was stunned by the quality of almost everything I tasted from 2004—red, white, Trentino, Sicily, Tuscany, Piedmont, Friuli, everywhere it seemed to be an amazing vintage. Ermacora didn’t disappoint.
Ermacora’s wines are unoaked and very concentrated, so much so that the wines need 6-9 months after release to really blossom and show all of their potential. This year’s wines were so fantastic I asked Dario if we could delay the arrival so they could show their complete array of potential. In Italy it is the exact opposite; all the restaurants and their customers want the wine the first day it is available, mostly from a historical perspective where there was little refrigeration, and at the end of the vintage the wine was….well not as good. Dario was very pleased that his wines would be arriving here in their best condition!
2004 Ermacora Tocai Friulano ($14.99) 2 Glasses Gambero Rosso. If there was any one varietal that showed better in Friuli in this glorious vintage it is the often misunderstood Tocai Friulano. The wonderful balance, coupled with a depth of concentration you don’t see in Tocai is followed by hints of tarragon and layers of mineral that give way to a richness that is balanced with delicate acidity and scintillating aromas of bitter almonds, apple and ripe pear highlighted by a very long finish. The perfect accompaniment to fish or crab. 2004 Ermacora Pinot Grigio ($14.99), winner of 2 Glasses Gambero Rosso, is simply sensational. Perfect balance of acidity and tremendous aromatics, loaded with pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruits in an elegant, concentrated and superbly balanced wine! 2004 Ermacora Pinot Bianco ($14.99) 2 Blue Glasses Gambero Rosso. This is the wine Ermacora is known for most in Italy. It has tremendous focus and concentration, rich and creamy, with custard like flavors and hints of apples and bergamot. It is majestic on the palate, with balance, complexity and character. Age this wine for 2-3 years and you won’t believe the incredible wine it will evolve into. Perfect for halibut, swordfish or cocktailing! —Greg St.Clair

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2004 is an excellent vintage for white Burgundy. The more I taste, the better I like it. This month the 2004 Vincent Girardin wines have arrived. Vincent is a 5th generation grower in Santenay but has also established a thriving negociant business, known for his excellent whites. The 2004 Girardin St-Aubin Murgers “Dent de Chien,” 1er Cru ($29.99) is from the vineyard next to Puligny-Montrachet “Champ Gain,” 1er Cru and has minerality, focus and length. The 2004 Girardin Meursault “Les Tillets” ($36.99) comes from one of my favorite village vineyards in Meursault, which shows a pretty citric note and classic Meursault richness. The 2004 Girardin Puligny-Montrachet “Les Enseignères” ($46.99) is from the vineyard directly below Bâtard and shares the topsoil of that Grand Cru, so it is very rich and concentrated. The 2004 Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Truffieres,” 1er Cru ($49.99) has lime notes and a bright quality that is very appealing. The 2004 Girardin Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles,” 1er Cru ($79.99) is always a favorite, located next to Bâtard and Bienvenues-Bâtard, but selling for much less. Similarly well situated is the next vineyard up the hill, which makes the 2004 Girardin Puligny-Montrachet “Les Caillerets,” 1er Cru ($81.99) alongside Montrachet itself, and generally acknowledged as the best of the Puligny 1er Crus. We also have tiny quantities of the 2004 Girardin Corton-Charlemagne ($83.99), 2004 Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet ($179.95) and 2004 Girardin Montrachet ($330.00). Á Santé.
—Keith Wollenberg

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March 25 we will be hosting an event in S.F. featuring at least ten artisan growers from France, all from under the loving umbrella that is Louis/Dressner Selections. Confirmed so far are Marc Ollivier from Pépière, Cathérine Roussell from Clos Roche Blanche, François Pinon, Isaure de Pontbriand of Domaine Closel, Eric Nicolas of Bellivière, Jean-Paul Brun from Beaujolais, Claude Maréchal from Burgundy, Franck Peillot of the Jura, André Iché of Chateau Oupia in the South and more. For info go to www.klwines.com. Now on to the wines…
Recent arrivals include a much better supply of the wildly popular Sancerre of Gerard Boulay in Chavignol. The 2004 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol ($18.99), a hand-harvested, tank-fermented stunner that is brilliant and racy with intensity and length to match,. The flavors unfold like improvisational Jazz. There are small amounts of 2004 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol Rouge ($18.99), which is luscious, supple and, dare I say, a great find for pinot noir. There are also limited quantities of 2004 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol Clos du Beaujeu ($24.99), the old-vine cuvee, vinified in neutral wood, and to me one of the great wines of the region. If you tasted or bought the 2002 you will know what I mean. Then, and please act fast if you want them, we have direct from the domaine some Clos du Beaujeu ’96, ’97, ’99 and a bit more 2002. I asked for these specifically to show to you how this wine improves with age, so please only a bottle or two per person so we can all enjoy these gems. Also, finally in stock again is the 2004 La Tour St. Martin Menetou Salon Blanc ($14.99), which is fresh, vibrant and bright with great cut and minerality and a zesty tanginess that invites another sip. There is hardly a better sauvignon in the store right now for this price. The 2004 La Tour St. Martin Menetou Salon Rouge ($14.99) is elegant with delicate flavors of earth and tea leaves, hints of sweet plums and woodruff. Drink over the next 7-8 years. Live in the Light! —Jeff Vierra

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While you are looking for the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day, consider the following two Champagnes for enjoying a romantic dinner or for presenting as a memorable gift.
For those of you on a budget (hey, you’re giving diamonds as well), the Launois “Cuvee Reserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs ($25.99) is a perfect choice. This bubbly comes from Mesnil, the home of Krug’s Clos de Mesnil and the world-renowned house of Salon. So, obviously, quality is the trademark of this southernmost Grand Cru village. The Launois is made entirely of chardonnay with 90% of the juice from the 2000 vintage and 10% from the 1998 reserve. Stainless steel vinification makes for clean fruit with a hint of minerality. A nose of pastry dough and wet stones. Rich pear fruit with a touch of key lime are the principal flavors with a finish of crème brulee and toasted almonds. Four years ageing on the lees brings richness and length.
The Franck Bonville Cuvee Les Belles Voyes ($59.99) is a top of the line bubbly from Olivier Bonville. The Belles Voyes vineyard is in Oger and is miniscule, at 1 3/4 acres. Like the Launois, this wine is all chardonnay (in this case, from the 1997 harvest). All fermentation and ageing is done in old oak casks. A wonderful nose of vanilla and subtle yeast. Flavors of golden pears, cream, brioche and pine nuts. Creamy and full-bodied with a slight, elegant hint of toasted oak on the finish. One of the most lush and rich Champagnes that we currently have in stock A great effort of winemaking, and tough competition for wines selling at three times the price! —Scott Beckerley

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I am extraordinarily excited to report that my favorite 1996 vintage Champagne yet has arrived at K&L. From Leclerc-Briant, the producer that brought us the (now sold out) single vineyard Champagnes Clos des Champions, Les Crayères and Les Chêvres Pierreuses is finally releasing their tete de cuvee. The Leclerc-Briant Cuvee Divine ($39.99) is being released at ten years old, a properly luxurious time in the family’s 90 foot-deep cellar for a luxury cuvee. This Champagne is the color of straw, with just the right amount of compact, streaming bubbles. It is composed of 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir, blended from estate vineyards in the prime valley of the Marne villages Dizy (home of Jacquesson), Cumieres (where their single vineyard offerings are from), Damery (where Mr. Rene Collard has vines) and Hautvillers (home of the monk Dom Perignon). Aromatically, the pinot noir is at the forefront, with plenty of black cherry, a very high quality, pure nose indeed! After spending nine years on the lees it is surprising how little toast is evident, and I think this is a testament to the organic farming of Mr. Pascal Leclerc-Briant. Because of the lower yields and greater concentration, there is just lots of wine in front of the yeast! In the mouth, the wine is rich and full bodied, with all the flavors present that the nose promised. The finish is where the chardonnay takes over, with zippy, subtly citric refreshment and a very persistent minerality. The Divine is dosed at only six grams per liter, making it quite dry. After having the 1988 at dinner with Scott Beckerley, I am convinced that this will provide fantastic drinking until at least 2021—starting today! Please don’t miss this fantastic Champagne; I am sure it won’t last long. We also received a very small amount of the Leclerc-Briant “La Croisette” Brut ($29.99) from a less-than-one-acre vineyard in Epernay directly above the winery! This blanc de blancs shows the cantaloupe style fruit of a valley of the Marne blanc de blancs and finishes very, very dry. Quantity is limited. Feel free to contact me at 1-800-247-5987 ex 2728. A toast to you!
—Gary Westby

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That headline has nothing to do with anything, but it looks dramatic, don’t you think? Anyway, in my case he is both.
I’m not about to say that Jim has lost the dynamic that has made him a legend in this business, but… well heck, you may as well know: He has a grand total of three customers left. Three who trust him. Three who take his advice. Three blind friggin’ mice. Shemp must be close, ’cause apparently Larry, Moe and Curly shop with Master Barr.
There is Don (not his real middle name). Don reads lips, and that helps their relationship immensely. Don is so busy that he rarely finds the time to see Jim in person, another sterling silver plus sign. Don must be a priest, as he has forgiven Barr all of his wine suggestion sins.
One wine that Barr got right was the 1933 Justino Henriques Malmsey Madeira ($249.95), sweetish and rich and sporting an orange peel tang on the one hand, bittersweet chocolate on the other. In cold weather, Madeira makes easy friends. A real rarity.
There is David. David makes wine with Jim, another mistake. David is a lawyer. If I were David, I’d file a class action suit against every recommendation Jim has ever made. Except the 1979 Latour ($199.95). Elegant, restrained, classy, and perfectly stored. A true claret.
And there is C.T. I think C.T. has the ears of an elephant, because he can understand every word Jim says. C.T. is even o.k. with Jim’s voicemail message (“I will ATTEMPT to get back to you as soon as possible.” Like, how hard can it be to dial seven &!!@#$! numbers?) but has yet to actually speak with Barr on the phone. Fancy that.
Take care of your health gentlemen. You are the last of the Barrhicans.
Welcome The Newest K&L Team Members! Some have been here a bit. I should have introduced them before. But better late than never!
Jorge Valencia: A prince of a man. And a fabulous cook as well. Pan-fried Marlin pancreas, sardine gazpacho, head cheese jello mold (or just plain mold), he does it all, and with panache, but you can have that on the side. Multi lingual, speaks Spanish when he wishes to say rude things about me. What does embecil de la aldea mean?
Dan Buckler: Fresh from the Katrina catastrophe (only partly responsible) and looking for another. Found K&L immediately. Fits right in, never a good sign. Hobbies: traveling, placekicking and left wing extremism. Loves long walks on the beach. When he wishes to say rude things about me, he stays silent. I’ve never heard him speak.
Jeff Garneau: Almost didn’t take the job because there was no resident chef (hadn’t met Jorge). Thank God he made the right decision (did we?). Jeff can (and will) discuss the global ramifications of T vine trellising, or maybe the effect the Norwegian whaling industry has on the uptick of Mondeuse consumption in the Pacific Northwest. Speaks impeccable English when he wishes to say rude things about me.
Thornton Jacobs: We share an affinity for smuggling water bottles filled with Sauvignon Blanc onto airplanes. Hey, it’s a long trip. Or a short one (whatever). Used to work for a competitor, but when I Googled him all I got was a mug shot of former Phillies slugger Greg Luzinski. Maybe that’s why he looks up when a ballpark vendor yells “hey Polish!” Speaks German when he wishes to say rude things about me. What does was fur ein dorftrottel mean anyway? —Joe Zugelder

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We (Clyde, to be more precise) are still finding an occasional 2000 Bordeaux (mostly of the Cru Bourgeois level) floating around from our sources both here and in France, and, in some cases, at very reasonable prices. One positive aspect of these classified lesser growths is that in exceptional vintages like 2000, they will be ready to drink at a much earlier date than the major growths. A perfect example of this comes from a 150-acre, northern Médoc estate, the 2000 Château La Cardonne Blaignan, Médoc ($14.99). Comprised of merlot (50%), cabernet sauvignon (45%) and cabernet franc, this puppy is deeply colored and exhibits lovely, opulent aromatics of black cherries to blueberries with just a touch of cedary oak as a back note. In the mouth, this well-balanced, medium-full bodied Médoc offers tons of ripe fruit, upfront and on through to the finish, soft integrated tannins, good complexity and a warm lengthy finish.
Along the same thought patterns as the above, we have just received our third shipment of 2003 Château Souvenir, Bordeaux Superieur ($9.99), also from a very serious vintage. This excellent Bordeaux from Saint-Medard-De-Guizieres, just northwest of the city of Bordeaux, is totally vinified to drink now. A blend of merlot (60%) and equal amounts of cabernet sauvignon and franc, you will discover a wonderful wine that is lush, round and soft, loaded with cassis to blackberry fruit, good length and a very forward appeal. Buy this to drink near-term while you wait for your 2003 classified growths to evolve.
One of the most unique and compelling red wines that I can recall tasting of late is the 2004 Domaine L’Attilon Marselan Rouge ORGANIC ($8.99). Marselan is a new grape that is a cross between cabernet sauvignon and grenache, and is being planted in southern France around Aude and Bouches du Rhone. This 2004 organically produced wine from Domaine L’Attilon explodes with currant to blackberry fruit with spicy undertones on the nose and in the mouth. There is a hint of floral tones reminiscent of jasmine, too, with excellent acid structure, excellent firmness and depth of character, and with a long, delicious finish. Anderson has told me that this is most definitely our house red for the month, with the other two in strong contention.
Our Burgundy wine buyer, Keith Wollenberg, discovered the Mâcons of Denis Barraud, an extremely small but super-high-quality producer, in 2002. His estate productions have been exceptional, and the 2004 Domaine des Nembrets St-Veran ($13.99) from Barraud is, without a doubt, one of the finest village Mâcons that I have ever put in my mouth. It is very broad, very rich, almost creamy on the palate, yet bright and vibrant and has that classic minerality that comes from the hills of Roche De Vergisson. This is a must buy for those of you who are looking for excellent white Burgundy to buy but do not want to take a second mortgage out on the homestead to be able to afford to do so.
If you have any questions regarding these wines, you can email me at jimbarr@klwines.com.
Enjoy this month’s selection or else!
—Jim, Anderson, & Eby

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We are going to push the envelope a bit this month as we have just received some wines that don’t necessarily fit comfortably into our perceptions of German wine, but damn are they tasty! From the Nahe we have a weisser burgunder (pinot blanc) from Paul Anheuser that is simple, fresh and lip smacking. Try the 2004 Paul Anheuser Weisser Burgunder Classic ($10.99) with a salad of lump crab meat lightly tossed with peas, tarragon and fennel for refreshing and invigorating lunch. Keep a stock of this delicious bottle for unexpected guests and those nights when you just need a glass of wine. Fingers crossed, I have submitted this to Jim Barr and his crack staff and hope to get at least 63 cat heads and possibly a house wine designation from the master. Speaking of Jim Barr this next wine is as quirky as he is, though I believe it can hear a little better…
In the Rheingau there are some plantings of red grapes, mostly pinot noir and some bits of st. laurent, which Mr. Molitor crafts into this expressive, cheery red. The 2003 Molitor St. Laurent Qba Trocken ($11.99) reminds me a bit of pineau d’aunis, another individualistic wine with its spicy nose of pepper, crushed black raspberries and hints of smoked sweet meats. Like most northern reds it is bright and focused, elegant and subtle, not a blockbuster, a wine best enjoyed with a fork in your hand. I suggest Asian-inspired meat dishes such as Kalbi Kui, Korean short ribs with sweet chili paste, garlic and soy.
—Jeff Vierra, lover of Marginal Things

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Ahhh, February, without a doubt one of my favorite months of the year, and it has nothing to do with that Valentine’s Day stuff. It’s cold, windy and rainy/snowy, some would say miserable. Not me. It makes me feel alive! It truly brings the kid back into my soul, when I used to jump into puddles just for the fun it or build a snow fort with an arsenal of snowballs to ambush your friends from, since you just called them to come over. The beautiful thing is that I still do this, although I get tired within ten minutes and have to go back inside. BUT THE SPARK IS STILL THERE BABY!!! At least now I can go inside and drink adult beverages, instead of some juice box, start a fire, pour some soul warming wine, cook good food all while making fun of my friends and how old THEY are getting. Let the spark ignite something this winter, even if it only lasts ten minutes, and then enjoy good wine with good people!
2003 Buchegger Grüner Veltliner Pfarrweingarten ($19.99) How can you say no to a wine coming from the Pfarrweingarten, or preist’s vineyard? A richer, tropical wine that reminds me of fresh mango, not yet fully ripened, drizzled with a beautiful, unfiltered Spanish olive oil and then dusted with a small cracking of white pepper.
2004 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Steinsetz ($21.99) This 2004 Grüner, planted in alpine pebbles that were transported by the primeval Danube and then covered by black and loamy soil, loess and gravel, gives birth to a wine that exudes full-bodied minerality with spikes of peppery acidity that are held together by a creamy core of fruit.
2003 Heidi Schrock St. Laurent Kraxner ($39.99) Are you ready for one of the finest reds in all the land? This is, without question, one of the best expressions of the St. Laurent varietal that I have ever had! Only two words can described this wine: power and grace. A silky caress of sweet tobacco and rich fruits compacted by a core iron depth and mineral salinity that leaves you sitting if you were standing and standing if you were sitting. —Eric Story

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That is the food I want this time of year. There are plenty of wines that pair wonderfully with these foods. A few of my favorites are:
2004 Vina Y Tia De Lozar, Ribera del Duero ($10.99) A charmer! Dark, ripe fruit immediately jumps out of glass at you. It is backed with more subtle hints of its oak, cedar, smoke and spice. On the palate the wine is similar to the nose; it greets you with dark, pure almost juicy fruits then fleshy soft tannins and behind the fruit and tannins the unmistakable savory earthiness of tempranillo. Think braised short-ribs!
2004 Bodegas Arrocal, Ribera del Duero ($12.99) This is bigger, more complex wine. The fruit is multidimensional; dark juicy berries and crunchy red fruits all tossed together. The palate is round, plush and long, the perfect showcase for all those fruit tones. Almost hidden behind the fruit are hints of oak and spicy earth that linger on the finish. Stylish, clean and modern, this is a heck of a deal. Great with Persian herb stew!
2004 Bodegas Quinta de la Quietud “Corral de Campanas,” Toro $21.99) Dark, vibrant and bold, looking at this wine you would think it was a monster, an opaque violet bruiser. The nose offers dense dark fruits and berries that slowly revealed tarry earth and exotic spices. The big surprise is the palate: structured and long with ripe supple tannins, reminding me of a forward right bank wine. Decant and enjoy this seriously indulgent wine. —Kirk Walker

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Enjoy these wines with desserts, chocolates, cheeses or your sweetie!
2004 Bodegas Silvano Garcia Monastrell Dulc, Jumilla (500ml) ($21.99) 93 points Robert Parker: “It is produced from 50-year old Mourvedre, vinified, then fortified with alcohol ... The superbly concentrated 2004 displays blue fruits, violet, and camphor aromas, followed by a full-bodied, enormously-endowed palate with more residual sugar than its taste reveals.”
2004 Bodegas Silvano Garcia Moscatel, Jumilla (500ml) ($21.99) 92 points Robert Parker: “Silvano Garcia fashions some intoxicating, heady, sweet reds, with the Moscatel resembling a French Beaumes de Venise. With loads of exotic tropical fruits intermixed with apricots, this honeyed sweetie possesses a light gold color as well as plenty of alcohol and glycerin.”
2003 Candela Bellum, El Remate, Valencia (500ml) ($29.99) 93 points Robert Parker: “…an Amarone-styled offering produced from late harvested Monastrell. It possesses a dense ruby/purple color, a fig and raisin-like character in its perfume of blackberries, chocolate, and scorched earth, moderate sweetness, and wonderful purity as well as intensity ... one of the top discoveries of all my tastings.”
2004 Vinos Piñol Mistela Blanca, Terra Alta (500ml) ($29.99) 95 points Robert Parker: “The 2004 Mistela Blanca is a rich, sweet elixir made from White Grenache. Its amber color is followed by copious quantities of honeysuckle, creme brulee, coffee, licorice, and cherry scents in its overpowering yet complex aromatics.”
2004 Vinos Piñol Mistela Red, Terra Alta (500ml) ($29.99) 92 points Stephen Tanzer: “(90% garnacha and 10% syrah) Bright dark ruby. Pungent, wild aromas of dark cherry liqueur, smoked bacon, truffle and maple syrup. Supersweet and highly concentrated but with a surprising light touch for such a powerful, velvety drink.”
Happy Valentine’s Day! —Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com —Anne Pickett

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This month, I want to tell you about Buehler Vineyards. I’ve written about them before and continue to enjoy the quality of wine being produced from the winery. Located 6 miles east of St. Helena above Conn Valley, the Buehler estate is 300 total acres with 65 under vine. The Buehler Family, along with wine maker David Cronin, continues to produce high quality, balanced wines at reasonable prices. Tours at the beautiful estate are by appointment only. Call (707) 963-2155. The following wines are now available at K&L:
2002 Buehler Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($29.99) The grapes are a combination of hillside fruit with grapes from the valley floor. The wine sees 18 months in oak, 20 % new, which adds just a taste of vanilla. A very rich and full bodied wine with great balance. It is approachable now, but I would recommend 2-3 years of aging.
2003 Buehler Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.99) This wine is ready to pop and pour. Full of bright black fruit and soft tannins, this wine sees 18 months of oak as well.
2003 Buehler Chardonnay ($9.99) A crisp, balanced wine with a nice creamy mouth feel, hints of mineral and floral on the nose with just enough acidity to make it great. This is the glass you want at the end of a hard day at work.
See you in the City… —Mike Jordan

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The 2002 Flora Springs Napa “Trilogy” ($49.99) is another winner in a long line of top California Bordeaux blends. The 2002 Trilogy is comprised of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 13% cabernet franc, 4% malbec and 4% petit verdot. The majority of the fruit used in this wine comes from the Komes Ranch Estate vineyards, which surround the winery in Rutherford. The wine is vibrant, rich and dark. Flavors of red currants, blackberries and mocha are followed a full, lush and well-structured finish. A few more years in the bottle will help to round out the ripe, firm tannins.
The 2002 Cabernets continue to impress us. The 2002 Vine Cliff Napa Cabernet Sauivignon ($34.99) is a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc and 4% petite verdot. This wine really shows the fleshy, ripe fruit that is typical of many great 2002s. Hints of mocha, ripe cherry and black currants jump from the glass! Switching gears to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Taz Vineyards is a winery to watch. The 2004 Taz Santa Barbara Chardonnay ($12.99) is a well focused, rich-fruit driven wine. Eighty percent of this wine comes from a southwest-facing slope on the inland side of the Cat Canyon Vineyard in Los Alamos. Their current Pinot Noir is the 2003 Taz Santa Barbara Pinot Noir ($17.99). In blending this 2003 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, the folks at Taz pulled together fruit from Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Rita Hills—two very different sites with contrasting signatures. The final product shows a blackberry burst in the wine with cola spice and juicy jammy berry notes, supported by a balancing act of tannins and structure. Another value in Santa Barbara Pinot Noir would be the 2004 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir ($17.99). This wine is just easy to drink. Whether with fresh grilled salmon or left-over roast chicken or just in a glass by itself, the pretty plum and spring strawberry flavors of ABC’s Santa Barbara Pinot are simply delicious.
—Trey Beffa

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I can’t believe I haven’t written about Terra Valentine yet, considering how great these wines are and how much the entire Redwood City staff loves them. It’s been over a year since I desperately asked Trey if we could carry the 2001s and now with the rip-roaringly good 2002s just released, it’s a perfect time to introduce them now, and not just because it’s February! Terra Valentine is a family-owned, small-production winery that sits deep and high inside the spectacular Spring Mountain Appellation, truly one of the best regions for growing Cabernet in all of Napa Valley. Eighteen hundred feet above the drums of the winery divas below, this extraordinary 14-year-old, 35-acre vineyard produces wines of profound character and intensity, displaying amazing personality and a chiseled, age-worthy structure. The true masterpiece, however, is owner Angus Wurtele’s choice to price these stunners at absurdly reasonable levels. For such magnificent quality, you can easily pay a lot more (and trust me, you mostly do!). In fact, I performed a little experiment a couple weeks ago when I had glass of 2002 Terra Valentine Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon ($26.99) next to that of an ultra-prestigious winery whose focus one might say is its famous white label. There I was, sitting on the patio sipping Terra Valentine next to a $100+ dollar bottle thinking to myself, “In all fairness I can’t say that T.V. is better (or worse) than this luxury brand next to it. Wow!” The kicker was that it had all the depth and elegance of greatness, but none of the price tag. As if that wasn’t enough, the 2001 Terra Valentine “Wurtele Vineyard” Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($44.99) is something else!! Winemaker Sam Baxter selects fruit from two exceptional, volcanic-soil blocks within this killer vineyard to make a truly special wine that turns up the muscle and concentration, demonstrating astonishing fruit and refinement that’ll make your mind salivate. I’m going to be blunt about this. There is no California Cabernet under $50 that will make it flinch. Not one. If you find one, you email me at mreyes@klwines.com and tell me, because I want to buy it. Enjoy! —Martin Reyes

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Olivet Lane vineyard is an incredibly desirable source of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay fruit in the Russian River appellation of Sonoma. The grapes are higly sought after by wineries such as Williams Selyem and Merry Edwards, but the way to buy is directly from the owners of the vineyard under their own Olivet Lane label. Pellegrini Family owns this vineyard, and under the astute direction of Robert Pellegrini these wines are truly world class. Both wines are wonderful values and have proven themselves with our staff and our customers. Give each a try and see for yourself how you can buy cult level wines at great prices.
The 2002 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir ($19.99) is wonderfully opulent with nice dark cherry fruit filling the palate, accented by delicate notes of sweet spices, blackberry, integrated oak and a long plush finish. Good tannins provide structure, but the velvety texture of the wine smoothes these out into a wine that is hard to resist right now. This is luxury in a bottle, and at a price we all can afford. This is truly new world-style Pinot Noir at its best and avoids the ultra-extraction crutch that hides the true character of Pinot while exhibiting the unctuous ripeness that the Russian River appelation uniquely adds to the world of Pinot styles.
The 2003 Olivet Lane Chardonnay ($14.99) also shows how great the Russian River can be for the prodction of world-class Chardonnay, with a wonderful offering of ripe pear to apple fruit with notes of stone, cinnamon and a touch of vanillin oak. With all this ripe fruit, you might expect a lack of acidity or structure, but it comes through here in this great food wine. This is a Chardonnay to please everyone! Consistent year after year, this has been a favorite of our customers (and staff) consistently. —Shaun Green

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Actually, I should clarify that I am not actually in Basqueland. My travel plans for the month of February include a comfortable armchair, a copy of Mark Kurlansky’s A Basque History of the World and a few tasty bottles of wine from this breathtakingly beautiful and rugged country. Below are two selections from the Basque appellations of Iroulegey and the Jurancon, located at the base of the Pyrenees in southwest France. I am sure you will appreciate them, both for their sense of terroir and for being dang tasty. Please read on!
Clos Lapeyre in Jurançon is a 12-hectare domaine owned by the Larrieu family. The goal of owner/winemaker Jean-Bernard Larrieu is to produce wines that express the specificity of the grape varieties (namely gros and petit manseng) and the soils (clay/limestone and silex) found on his steeply planted vines (250 meters!). The 2004 Domaine Lapeyre Jurancon Sec ORGANIC ($13.99) comes in a nifty screw cap, and oh what fun it is to drink! Comprised of 100% gros manseng, this is a firm, mineral-driven white with notes of fresh herbs, green apple and quince. This Basque white is delicate and refreshing, however its complexity and concentration will undoubtedly impress you. Enjoy a glass while cooking dinner, or pair with Basque style sizzling garlic shrimp!
One of the most picturesque and breathtaking villages in all of France MUST be Irouleguy! Rustically inspired Basque-style architecture as well as amazing wine and food lend a uniqueness to this village. The 2003 Iroulegey Rouge Domaine Illaria ORGANIC ($13.99), from winemaker Peio Espil is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, tannat and cabernet franc. This is not a massive, oak-laden fruit bomb but rather a medium-bodied red with notes of crunchy cherry, plum and black currant. A perfect match for hearty dishes like roast lamb in rosemary sauce or a traditional Basque-inspired grilled filet mignon with roasted red peppers. Enjoy a glass of this delicious and authentic red and take a trip to Basque country! —Mulan Chan

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 9:52 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Psst...wanna know about one of the best kept secrets in French wine? Rhone whites! You will absolutely fall in love, LOVE, with the following terrific, overachieving whites. Try one, or try them all!
2004 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc ORGANIC ($17.99) Fleshy marsanne is in evidence in this honeyed, thick and luscious northern Rhone white that is held together with a long, tight seam of minerals and grippy acidity. The nose is effusive with white flowers and hints of ripe nectarine. Enjoy this elegant white before a traditional Provencal meal or a St. Marcellin cheese.
2004 Costieres de Nimes Chateau Grande Cassagne Blanc ($9.99) Grenache blanc and roussanne are behind this crisp and rich white from the South of France. The very floral nose will set you squarely in the southern Rhone, at a village market, say, where lavender and white flowers mingle with green olives and citrus. A tingle of oak on the finish adds complexity and remains a backnote. Perfect with brandade or a slice of fougasse (flatbread with onion, black olive and anchovy).
2004 Côtes du Rhone Blanc Domaine de la Becassonne ($13.99) Châteauneuf-du-Pape legend Andre Brunel fashions this rich, full-bodied Rhone white from 50% roussanne, 30% clarette and 20% grenache blanc. This offers aromas of sweet honeysuckle and flavors of apricots, peaches and minerals. Pair with virtually any Provencal fare, including roast chicken, fennel roasted pork loin, picholine olives! A truly exceptional wine value from the South of France! —Mulan Chan

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2004 Highfield Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($13.99) This is a new offering in our portfolio of Kiwi sauvignon blancs, and a fine one indeed. Meticulous vineyard work and grape selection along with cold fermentation contribute to the perfumed nose of lime blossom, pink grapefruit, red bell pepper and minerals.
2004 Thorn Clarke Terra Barossa “Importers Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley South Australia ($10.99) It’s tough to find good cabernet at this price, but once again they deliver. The bouquet shows notes of plum, cherry, black current, earth and a hint of herbs. Aged in French oak, there are hints of spice along with the fruit character framed by supple tannins leading to a fine finish.
2003 d’Arenberg “Laughing Magpie” Shiraz-Viognier McLaren Vale South Australia ($19.99) A blend of shiraz co-fermented with 6% viognier. Showing aromas of honeysuckle, marmalade, blackberry, and a hint of pencil lead, on the palate this is full bodied with wonderful balance, fine dusty tannins and great length. This is a superb price. I’d recommend putting some aside to drink over the next 3-5 years.
2002 Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz-Cabernet South Australia ($18.99) Know as Baby Grange or Poor Man’s Grange, this wine shows elements of pepper, earth, black cherry, cassis, current and notes of cedar, spice box and mocha. I had the 1986 of this wine not long ago and it was absolutely terrific. A great cellar candidate, too! —Jimmy C

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Château d’Yquem has delivered its Bordeaux Superiore, rarely produced and only the 23rd vintage since its first introduction in 1959. 2000 Château d’Yquem “Y” ($139.99) is a dry white wine showing delicate aromas of gardenia and jasmine, which mingle with clover, honey and light brioche. The fruit of the nose is carried to the palate, with a pleasant stony finish. This wine offers a perfect long finish. I would recommend this wine with any customary sauternes paring (foie gras) but strongly suggest lobster thermidor.
On a sweeter note, the 2002 Le Dauphin de Guiraud, Sauternes (375ml) ($13.99) has a more exotic nose offering a refreshing honey and citrus finish. The bright, crisp and clean flavor makes this wine a great everyday sauterne that will be light enough to drink with any fruity dessert.
Another great everyday drinker is the 1998 Reserve St. Julien, St-Julien ($14.99), from the great Saint-Emilion wine maker Hubert de Bouard (Angelus). A deep rich purple color and plenty of fruit to the nose, medium bodied with good structure. Will improve with some cellaring over the next 2-3 years.
The 2002 Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe ($22.99) offers good value for the cellar. With plenty of sweet concentrated black fruit and cassis on the nose leading to a meaty more delicate finish. This wine should be drunk over the next 10 years.
Last but not least, the 2000 Feytit Clinet, Pomerol ($34.99), is a merlot-based wine offering a black cherry and dark earthy nose. With tannins still very present, I would keep this wine in my cellar for another couple of years before opening. It will drink well for the next five years after that. —Alexandre Brisoux

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 9:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Lets start the month with one delicious white from the classic 2004 vintage and three outstanding reds from the near perfect 2000 vintage in Bordeaux.
2004 Thieuley Blanc, Bordeaux ($10.99) This property has been turning out high quality white and red wines that sell for prices much lower than you would expect. This is a blend of 60% sauvignon blanc and 40% semillon with a round, soft middle showing grapefruit, shy melon and apple. The finish is fresh and citrusy, with a touch of Meyer lemon and a fine dusting of mineral. An amazing bargain!
2000 Thieuley Rouge, Bordeaux ($16.99) This property also crafted our best selling wine from the legendary 2000 Bordeaux vintage. From the aromas of black currants and cigar box to the ripe merlot fruit, this is a satisfying glass of wine. Lush and ample with flashy tobacco and coffee nuances.
2000 Poujeaux, Moulis ($29.99) Probably the most consistent value-priced château we carry. The 50% cabernet sauvignon in the blend shows here with aromatic herbs adding complexity to the sweet black currants. This is supple, round and earthy with a long, rich, tobacco-laced finish that invites another taste. 40% merlot rounds out the mid palate and makes this traditionally crafted beauty a wine that can age but also drinks perfectly now.
2000 Phelan-Segur, St-Estèphe ($26.99) This K&L favorite seems to fly under the radar vintage after vintage, yet always produces some of the best values in Bordeaux. Here is a big wine with ample structure and an intriguing meaty quality that contrasts nicely with the bright dark berry fruit. Although big and chewy in the beginning, the spicy, mineral-laced finish is elegant, silky and long. This will age well but can be decanted and enjoyed now. —Steve Bearden

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 9:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I remember it like it was yesterday: a very cold and crisp morning in the first days of April 1995, and we were just getting warmed up after tasting at Lynch Bages at 8:30 a.m. and then Mouton-Rothschild at 9 a.m. As our leader Bill Blatch drove slightly uphill past vines and white gravel less than a minute from Mouton I could not see the château hidden behind the large trees. I asked Bill where are we going next, and he said Pontet-Canet. I was very excited. I had never been to the historic 5th growth. I then asked Bill why we were going there for the first time. His answer was that the 1994 Pontet-Canet was the finest wine made there in a long time and warranted the visit. Of course, he was right; the 1994 Pontet is one of the great successes of the difficult vintage, and the estate has improved every year since.
The name of Pontet-Canet is well known as vines have been in the ground there since before 1725. The estate had a fine reputation before dropping in quality in the years just prior to the 1855 classification of Bordeaux. The classification itself was based solely upon the track record of quality and price, hence Pontet was placed as a 5th growth. The quality rose to the point where the wine was selling at 2nd growth prices. The 1929 was a legendary wine. Unfortunately, as for most of Bordeaux, tough times were ahead. Ponet-Canet did in fact become very well known as a “brand” but for all the wrong reasons—for being the non-vintage, barely drinkable wine served in the French railroad cars.
In 1975 the estate was sold to the Tesseron family, and today the wines are outstanding under the direction of Alfred Tesseron. Alfred’s quiet revolution started in the winery with a more strict selection in the ’80s and in the last 15 years in the vineyard.
The style of Pontet-Canet is masculine, loaded with dark purple fruit, and in today’s wines it is very pure, long and elegant. Many customers are newcomers to Pontet and can feel the conviction in my voice when I recommend it in orders along with the greats like Cos, the Pichons and the Léovilles. For me, Pontet-Canet’s style is like Léoville-Barton: dark serious wines of longevity, quality and value personified. And now you can add consistency!
The proof of Pontet-Canet’s great success of late is easily seen and expected in the famous vintages of 2000 Ch. Pontet-Canet ($49.99) and 2003 Ch. Pontet-Canet ($59.99). But the real proof is in the stunning 2002 Ch. Pontet-Canet ($29.99), 2004 Ch. Pontet-Canet ($39.99) and 1998 Ch. Pontet-Canet ($26.99), from years when mother nature made it difficult to make a fine wine.
Please feel free to call me anytime with questions or advice on the wines of Bordeaux at ex 2723 or Ralph@klwines.com. Cheers and Toujours Bordeaux! —Ralph Sands

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It is time for our buyers to start scouring the far corners of the wine world finding great value wines for our stores and our loyal customers. First, Jim Chanteloup, Elisabeth Schriber and myself visited Australia in January. We focused mainly on the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale areas.
February sees Jeff Vierra off to the Loire while Greg St. Clair and Mike Parres head to Tuscany. In March, Keith Wollenberg goes to Burgundy, and Anne Pickett travels to Spain. A big contingent (Clyde Beffa Jr, Ralph Sands, Chip Hammack and Steve Bearden) goes to Bordeaux in April to taste the “superb” 2005 vintage and then travels to the Southern Rhône. Late April sees Gary Westby tasting in Champagne. That’s over 150,000 miles, and we are only into April. Many more trips after April! All in the name of finding special wines for our special customers. —Clyde Beffa Jr

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