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April 26, 2006

Join the Cult of René Collard!

René Collard is a cult Champagne producer in France who is becoming increasingly popular here in the U.S. He is also immensely popular in the U.K. Hence, his sparkling wines have been referred to as English in style. Composed almost entirely of pinot meunier, they are aged in oak and are reminiscent of a Champagne style popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Collard is quite literally the banner holder for history in a bottle. He also produces his wines ONLY in the finest vintages. The Collard wines are getting very popular here at K&L for both their unique style and quality.
The 1990 Cuvée Reservee Millesime ($49.99) is the only cuvée that Collard produced in the 1990s. Made of 90% pinot meunier and 10% chardonnay, with no malolactic fermentation used and fermentation done entirely in oak. The classic Collard nose is there. Mushrooms, a slight hint of sherry and spicebox aromas distinguish this wine from any other that we sell. On the palate, truffles, melons, cognac and a touch of vanilla, which will come out more as this wine ages. These Champagnes do age magnificently! I was fortunate to have the marvelous 1969 with Gary.
Our newest arrival from Collard (one that has been out of stock for some time) is the 1985 Cuvée Speciale Brut Rosé ($69.99). The Rosé is composed entirely of pinot meunier with 88% of it vinified as a white wine and 12% vinified as a still red. It is the only Rosé that Collard produced in the 1980s (along with his 1985 Cuvée Reservée Millesime). One of the most striking things is the color of the wine: a deep blood orange. It has a marvelous nose of cherries, yeast, toasted nuts and bread dough. In the mouth, strawberry liqueur, light yeast, sherry and mandarin orange notes. Simply unique and delicious! A perfect match with duck or roasted game hen. Although this Champagne is outstanding now, it should cellar quite well for the next four years or so. —Scott Beckerley

April 21, 2006

2005 Bordeaux: The Complete List

K&L's four-person contingent reports on this brand new vintage from every region in Bordeaux and from all the greatest Chateaux. Get our extensive tasting notes and start planning for this outstanding vintage!

Download K&L’s 2005 Bordeaux Report.

April 20, 2006

Bordeaux Tasting-K & L Wine Merchants, Redwood City

K&L Wine Merchants hosts regular wine tastings in both of its Bay Area locations. At the San Francisco store wine tasting are held each Saturday from Noon to 3 p.m. and on Thursday evenings. In Redwood City tastings are held on Saturday from 1 to 4 p.m. Wine tastings provide a wonderful opportunity to discover a new wine region or variety, or rediscover some old favorites—without having to commit to the purchase of an entire bottle! No need to reserve a space, just come on in and pull up a glass!

Tasting for Saturday, 22nd April, 2006
1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
$20.00


2004 Grand Enlos du Cerons Blanc-$13.99
(55% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris)

2003 Haut Beausejour, St. Estephe-$19.99
(39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 54% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec)

2003 La Fleur, St. Emilion- $26.99
( 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc)

2003 Beausejour Duffau, St. Emilion- $49.99
( 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)

2003 Carbonnieux Rouge, Pessac-Leognan- $23.99
(60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot)


2003 Gloria, St. Julien- $29.99
( 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot )

2003 Fonbadet, Pauillac- $23.99
(60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and Malbec)

2003 Clerc Milon, Pauillac- $49.95
(55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot)

1994 Pichon Lalande 1.5, Pauillac- $159.00
(45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot)

1994 D’Yquem, Sauternes- $99.00 (Sale! Was $160.00!)
(80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc )

2005 Bordeaux Report from Steve Bearden

We tasted up and down both banks for over a week and re-tasted many wines several times. Overall the vintage appears to be very good to great with some areas doing better than others. The Left Bank is fairly consistent, particularly Margaux and Paiillac. The exception is Graves and Pessac-Leognan where there is some inconsistency. On the Right Bank Pomeral seems solid. Saint-Emilion is all over the place depending on what the wine makers attempted to do in the cellar. The folks who "pushed" and tried to do too much extraction often made heavy, unbalanced wines. On the other hand, those that were "gentle" and let the vintage make the wine appear more successful.

We were in Bordeaux and tasting the very young wines quite early this year and it would be wise to expect many of these wines to change profoundly by the time they are released to the public. What we got was a snapshot of where the wines are now, but in general there is a lot to like about the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux. Certainly the folks in Bordeaux are very confidant that they have a great vintage on their hands.

Be advised that as I write this hype for the vintage is building and prices have yet to be released. Nothing we have heard make us think prices will be anything but high.

I hope to see you in San Francisco this Saturday for my monthly Bordeaux tasting where we will be featuring the delicious and user friendly 2003 vintage.

-Steve Bearden

April 19, 2006

Thursday Evening Tastings!

K&L Wine Merchants hosts regular wine tastings in both of its Bay Area locations. At the San Francisco store wine tasting are held each Saturday from Noon to 3 p.m. and on Thursday evenings. In Redwood City tastings are held on Saturday from 1 to 4 p.m. Wine tastings provide a wonderful opportunity to discover a new wine region or variety, or rediscover some old favorites—without having to commit to the purchase of an entire bottle! No need to reserve a space, just come on in and pull up a glass!
For further information about other special monthly tastings and dinners, please see our website at www.klwines.com and click on the “local events” bar.Tasting

Upcoming Thursday evening Tastings at K&L San Francisco:

04/20/06 Cain Vineyards

04/27/06 Darioush

05/04/06 Honig

05/11/06 Ruston Family Vineyards

05/18/06 Cliff Lede

06/01/06 Clos Saron

06/08/06 Duckhorn Vineyards

06/22/06 Vinum Cellars

Restaurant Corkage

Wonderfully provocative article in the San Francisco Chronicle last thursday on restaurant corkage. This is a hot button issue for wine savvy diners, and your piece exposes the flaws and attitudes with regards to wine markups.

While I don't agree with Pizzeria Delfina's policy not allowing diners to bring in their own wine, the restaurant has created a solid and inexpensive list. Any diner should be thrilled with this situation.
However, Delfina's Stoll says "What if you collected fine tablecloths... so you wanted to bring one in to eat off of?" At my restaurant I would ask my customer "On which table you would like me to drape it?"
Richard Reddington states that "I have investors that I need and want to pay back. How do I make up the profit?" Let me guess: exorbitant corkage and high wine prices? More Reddington: "When you write a budget, you think wine is going to represent a big chunk of your revenue. When it doesn't, the numbers don't make sense." "(Corkage) really undercuts our business model." Sounds like you botched the business model, Richard. Don't make it the diner's problem.
Bobby Stuckey of the French Laundry says corkage is only beneficial to people with a lot of money and not beneficial to the rest of us.
When I look at a restaurant wine list and see Edna Valley Vineyards Chardonnay for 35 bucks, corkage is only for rich people?
Ronn Wiegand says that the markup of wine in restaurants is the same as the food. Great, so the diner pays 200 to 300 percent of the cost on food, and the restaurant says that it can't make a profit unless the same markup is used for wine? Hmmm.
Restaurants CAN offer mature wine. They do not have to cellar the wine for years and charge prohibitive pricing. Some wholesalers offer older vintages that can be ordered and shipped within a day or two. So strike that argument.
Reddington again: "All that corkage really covers is the 12 glasses that get ruined every night." "We broke a $100 decanter the other night, and there's your corkage." You broke a decanter, and that is justification for charging astronomical corkage fees? Not great customer service. That's right, customer. Restaurants are in the food SERVICE business.
On the flip side, the 'BYO' advice listed in the article is golden. Diners, don't bring wine that a restaurant has on its list. And if you DO take advantage of corkage, you should tip as if you purchased wine off of the list.
The do's and don't go both ways. And if you are put off by corkage policies, don't dine at that establishment.
If you don't like commercials, don't watch T.V.

Anyone out there feel the same? Differently? I'd love to hear your comments.
And don't worry, I'm not really this cranky. I wrote the above as a letter to the editor but decided it was too harsh. It still is- but my feelings about this issue still strongly favour a corkage policy and a fiscally responsible wine list.
--Joe Zugelder

April 17, 2006

What Size is Your Orange Jumpsuit?

In an effort to stay out of prison, we had to suspend wine shipments to Texas. Recently we got served with a formal cease and desist order from the friendly lone star state's Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC). Seems they believe that Bordeaux or Brunello is ok in Texas as long as it doesn't come by way of an out-of-state retailer like K&L.

The Pulitzer Prize winning Dallas Morning News has written their own story on the lawsuit that K&L and other retailers filed against the TABC, fighting back against this insanity. Read the Dallas Morning News coverage.

We are part of a group called the Specialty Wine Retailers Association (SWRA) and just recently took the fight with Texas to the next level, filing a lawsuit against the TABC, challenging the constitutionality of Texas' laws prohibiting adult consumers from purchasing and receiving wine directly from out-of-state retailers. Read
details about the lawsuit here
.

April 14, 2006

Podere Rinascimento

Maybe it was talking to Joe Z about an April Fool’s prank he’s playing or perhaps it is that after 110 times of writing this column I’ve got a feeling of hmmmmmmmm, what should I write about? Why would I have this malaise with all of the great Italian wine available today? I do have a bunch of incredible projects I’m working on to bring you starting (hopefully arriving in June) with Rocca di Montegrossi. One of Chianti Classico’s best producers is now going to be a direct import for us. Wait until you taste these wines! Or the new producer Mike and I visited, Ca’ Berti and their Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, hillside vineyards and hand picked Lambrusco. Wow, you won’t believe them. Or all of the wonderful new vintage wines from Ermacora, Silvano Follador, Blason and Ruggeri Corsini, and several other projects that are in the works all tremendously exciting but I can’t write about those yet… Well here is the big news I can tell you: I’m going to rename my column once again because I’m moving to Hollywood! No, I’m not going to hang out in Schwab’s Drug Store waiting to be discovered. I’m going to be bringing K&L’s Italian wines to the southland sometime late this summer!
Meanwhile, we still have a great selection of Brunello on the way! Here are a few: The 2001 Baricci Brunello di Montalcino ($34.99) is full of the classic Montosoli nose, black cherry, cinnamon, anise cardamom and leather. The power of this vintage really shines through, and Sangiovese’s linear nature stretches the frame of this feminine wine to Amazonian proportions. The wine’s sophisticated temperament is inviting, and its supple feel relaxes you as it eases from the glass onto on your palate. Its focus, complexity, structure and finish stand out immediately while ripe layers of spicy black cherry and plum are deposited on your tongue. Vital, lithe, colorful, smooth all rolled into one, the 2001 is the best Baricci for me since the 1985. It must be something for your cellar. The 2001 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino ($34.99) has a warm, sweet ripeness that is full of intense plum and dark cherry aromatics that seem poised to jump out of the glass. The thick, lush, yet dazzlingly fresh fruit character is accented with hints of earth, spice and mineral that is wrapped around a powerful foundation. While profoundly concentrated, the silky nature of this wine sends waves of smooth, unctuous texture across your palate. Powerful, complex, drinkable and age-worthy, this luscious Brunello shows the great balance inherent in this 2001 vintage. It will age well for another decade plus. The 1999 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino ($59.99) is a truly stunning wine. Mike and I drank (no spitting here) a bottle with Vincenzo Abbruzzese the owner/winemaker over lunch in February side by side with the 98-point 2001. We finished both, and there isn’t much difference. Maybe the 2001 is a little bigger, but WOW both are absolutely sensational wines. You need to have this in your cellar! Trust me! —Greg St. Clair

May’s Picks

2004 Garlider Sylvaner ($19.99) Born in 1974, Christian Kerschbaumer is a rising star in Valle Isarco and Alto Adige viticulture, with about 5 acres of vineyards (15% red and 85% white grapes). We are proud to introduce you to his wines. The Sylvaner has a rich bouquet and shows a juicy palate with green apples, citrus and minerals and almost a little saltiness on the vibrant finish. Try with hard cheeses or a tomato, basil and mozzarella salad.
2004 Garlider Muller-Thurgau ($18.99) Both of this and the Sylvaner above received 2 Full Glasses in the 2006 Gambero Rosso. The Muller-Thurgau is probably one of the best I’ve tasted in a long time. Spicy, with a white peppercorn, flint and slate mingling with white fruit and herbs. This is a very dynamic wine that will marry well with a cold tomato and garlic soup or dishes featuring avocado.
2004 Dorigo Pinot Grigio ($17.95) This wine was made in all stainless steel, and extended contact with the lees gives this a richness few Pinot Grigios have. The palate will bring you that classic Friulian terroir with green apples, a touch of almond and that great 2004 acidity. The perfect wine for your Mother’s day brunch.
2004 Dorigo Cabernet Franc ($15.99) Yes cab franc from Italy! It
has been grown in Fruili for centuries. Forget about this grape varietal from France or California! This is a GREAT example of what cabernet franc is all about: spicy, blackberries, blueberries and cassis with
black pepper and a hint of mint on the finish. Throw a steak on
the barbeque. —Mike Parres

Pour Votre Plaisir

As I write this, I am just back from two weeks in Burgundy. It was a good trip, where I had the chance to taste hundreds of 2004 Burgundies, both white and red.
The 2004 White Burgundies are less variable and easier to evaluate. They are charming wines, with a clear sense of place. Perhaps not the perfect vintage for aging for more than a decade, but that long a time frame is hardly a problem for most whites (or for most of us). The vintage has a sense of sweetness on the palate, even for those wines with no hint of residual sugar, which makes them delightful.
2004 Red Burgundies are more variable, and the skill of the winegrower and careful cellar work are critical. I tasted some wonderful wines in Volnay, as well as Chambolle, so there is no generalization about Cote de Beaune versus Cote de Nuits that I can see. However, this is a vintage to talk to your wine merchant about how individual producers fared, and pick your wines well. If you do, there are some wonderful things to be found, and you will be delighted to have them in your cellar. Á Santé. —Keith Wollenberg

Honest Burgundy

It’s a good time to be a white Burgundy enthusiast. Currently on our shelves with have plenty (a relative term) of 2004s. This is one of the better vintages in current years to celebrate the dirt of Burgundy. By this I mean that these wine practically scream their terrior. A fun and interesting way to approach this would be wines from these two producers, Denis Barraud and Paul Pernot. The wines, like the men who make them, come from two very different worlds. The first is a small farmer, the second one of the very largest land owners in the Cote de Beaune.
2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Chataignieres, Domaine des Nembrets, Denis Barraud ($18.99)
The Domaine des Nembrets is a small hold that Dennis has been able to put together by sharecropping and leasing. The entire holding are on the slopes of the Roche de Vergisson, a giant basalt monolith, surrounded by complex and folded rocky, well-drained soils with limestone outcroppings. It is these limestone outcroppings that are home to Pouilly-Fuisse, and it is only the vines planted in this area that can be called so. This is not Saint-Veran or Macon. The wine is bright and fresh, showing cool yellow fruits with hints citrus and a stony mineral undercurrent. This wine sees a little new oak, which serves to frame and accentuate the fruit.
2004 Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot ($39.99)
In spite of having some of the largest holdings, this estate never produces much wine, selling almost 80% of their grapes. What they do keep (the best fruit, naturally) is reflected in their wines. They are not one of the superstars of Burgundy but the have a solid, quiet following. Preferring to have the wines speak for themselves, very little new oak is used. And speak they do! For young white Burgundy they are very approachable with lots of juicy, ripe stone fruits, citrus and the classic Puligny minerality. This wine has an open knit texture but never loses it focus and it betrays its intensity. It is almost like you’re getting away with something at this price. Drink now or hold onto it for a few more years.
—Kirk Walker

Two Champagnes Even Mom Will Love!

As we sequeway into Spring, I have two fantastic Champagne jewels. The first, and one of our most popular, is the NV De Meric, Grande Reserve Brut Sous Bois ($27.99). This is a very small, quality-conscious negotiant begun by the Besserat family in 1843 in Ay. Only Grand Cru and Premier Cru grapes are used in De Meric’s Champagnes. The wines are aged in chalk cellars with rumage still being done by hand. Half oak-aged and half stainless steel-aged, this organic beauty has a big, toasty nose with a roasted hazelnut/almond character and a touch of sea salt. A blend of 80% pinot noir, 15% chardonnay and 5% pinot meunier. On the palate, golden and granny smith apples with an elegant, small bead. Anjou pears and a hint of cocoa at the forefront. A zesty finish with light yeast and toast.
Champagne jewel number two is a name that most of you will recognize. The 1996 Laurent Perrier Vintage Brut ($39.99) is one of our top-selling Champagnes from this vintage. Am I selling out, you say? Nay! Although I usually focus on small estate-produced Champagnes, I am crazy for this larger (but, not HUGE) production bubbly. A masterful blend of 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay that received an amazing 92 point score from the Wine Spectator. A concentrated nose of citrus fruits, wet stones, lemon and spice. While brisk in the mouth, there is a nuanced texture with lemon cream, honeysuckle and (faint) ginger flavors. Starts out soft and ends with a long, lingering, complex finish. It is also available in half-bottles and magnums. The 1996 will also age well over the next six years. —Scott Beckerley

Gary's Champagne Picks

Last September, Kirk Walker and I were lucky to visit Champagne Hubert Paulet. Benoit Marguet, of Marguet-Bonnerave and Launois fame, had told us all about his friend Olivier Paulet, the young man in charge of this tiny Champagne house. When we arrived in Rilly-La-Montagne, on the north side of the mountain of Reims, we were not disappointed. Olivier took over Champagne Hubert Paulet in 1998 and works exclusively with estate fruit from Rilly. They sell half of their grapes to Billecart-Salmon, and make a little less the 2000 cases a year with the other half. The quality of the Champagnes is amazing. The style is friendly, and the value (due to our direct import) is fantastic. Olivier ferments in both tile and stainless steel vats, and is one of the rare producers to have a pragmatic view on malolactic fermentation. Ideally, he likes to put half of the blend through malo. He is also leaning toward organics, with grass growing between his rows even just days before the harvest, a rare sight in the chalk and vines landscape of Champagne. His Hubert Paulet Brut Tradition ($27.99) is a blend of 50% meunier, 25% chardonnay and 25% pinot noir. It is composed of the 2000 and 1999 harvests and has seen eight months of extra age on the cork as well as on the lees. It is very charming on the nose with ripe golden apple and fresh spring flower aromatics. It has very solid apple and pear fruit on the palate as well as an uncommon mineral note. It is quite dry, dosed at only 9 grams per liter with concentrated grape must instead of the more common beet sugar. The 1999 Hubert Paulet Brut Vintage ($32.99) is a blend of 40% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 20% meunier. Since 1999 was a very ripe and relatively low acid year, Olivier chose to completely stop the malolactic. This is a bigger, more serious Champagne that would go very well with barbequed chicken. It has a generous nose of dried apricots, wildflowers and cashews. The flavors are bold and full of fruit, but have a very nice counterbalance of minerality and acid. Contact me at garywestby@klwines.com or by phone at 877-559-4637 ex 2728 with any questions. A toast to you! —Gary Westby

Give that One Three Stickies!

Happy May everyone. Jim Barr here, taking over for Joe Z., as he is on vacation. I have been chosen to write his column. With my selections, of course. In lieu of my usual barking dogs scoring system (though I know you all love it) I will use Joe's stick men, or “stickies” as he likes to call them. After all of the abuse I’ve taken from Joe, it will be fun to “sticky” it to him! I made a joke hahahah!
Joe Zebra head thinks he is way funny when he makes fun of me. Like HE hasn’t mistaken a water pitcher for a spit bucket. Like HE’S never said to Robert Mondavi “I thought you were dead?” Like HE hasn’t asked a winemaker what percentage of red wine and white wine did he use to make his rosé!
1975 Poujeaux (1.5L $169.99). Poujeaux is French for “Joe is an idiot!” Haha! I’m stone deaf but funny as a doorknob, you bet I am. Poujeaux is a small-production, high-quality wine from Moulis, which is not a cow town. (Moo-lis! A great play on weirds!) Anyway, the 1975 Poujeaux (French for… oh, did that one already) is showing beautifully, at once sturdy and evenly balanced with ripe fruit flavors that dance between layers of earth and cedar.
My next selection, the 1910 Barbeito Sercial Reserva Madeira ($189.95) is a lovely old soul. Sercial is considered a very dry style, with a quality of almonds (and a hint of bittersweet chocolate with extended age). The dry side is represented by crisp notes of orange peel and a refreshing tangy acidity.
Madeira wines are tremendous values and guaranteed to serve up a unique wine experience. Also in stock is the 1933 Justino’s Malmsey Madeira ($179.95), which shows more richness and chocolate/fudge notes as well as orange essence. They are different. They are lovely.

Hard to believe that wine makes an appearance in Joe’s column!
I see that Joe bought the 1970 Graham Port ($199.00) as well. Once in a while he gets it right. This is a full-flavored 1970, as befits the Graham’s style. Over a decade ago, Michael Broadbent described the wine as having… “lots of fruit, grip, length, tannin and acidity.” That was true, but that was then. This now mature. This is a wonderful, complete, stately wine that deserves top ranking.
Now, I would like to tell a mean-spirited story about Joe, just as he does every month at my expense:
On April first of last year I came to work at the usual time. Everything seemed normal, or as normal as it can be for K&L. I hung up my coat and reached for my clipboard, without which I cannot function.
And then all heck broke loose.
The clipboard had Superglue on it, and it became cemented to my hand. Someone called out “April Fools!” as I ran about the shop flapping my arm. With all of the flapping I could not see where I was going and POW! I ran right into a floor stack of Bloody Mary mix and went butt over teakettle. Now covered in tomato mixture, I walked by the checkout counter on my way to the washroom and a customer screamed “Call an ambulance! This man is bleeding to death!” I was tackled by fellow employee Susan Purnell, who held on to my back. I hate people on my back, and so I ran into the parking lot, still all red. Customers screamed. Employees laughed. Before I could open my mouth the paramedics had strapped me onto a stretcher and were about to close the ambulance doors. That’s when I saw it: Joe getting out of his car… with mismatched socks! Take that, Joe Zebra head! Ah, revenge is sweet.
—Joe Zugelder

Barr's May Gems

Over the many years that I have been in this industry, I have come to realize that the more that I learn, the less I know. Just when I believe that I am aware of every conceivable producer from a certain viticultural location, a whole new batch of those that I have never heard about appear on the scene or in our inventory. To quote The Sundance Kid, “Who are these guys?” And how did our buyers find out about them? So, when the 2003 Château La Gatte Bordeaux Rouge, Saint Andre-de-Cubzac ($10.99) appeared in our warehouse, my immediate question was, Who are these guys? Clyde’s response was to ask me if, for whatever reason, I remembered the luncheon we had at Château Latour in1991 (the same luncheon that made me ill). The couple (Michael Affatato and Hélène Fenouillet) who sat next to us, bought this property in 1994 and immediately turned the quality level up quite a few notches the following vintages. With the 2003, a blend of merlot (65%), cabernet (25%), and the balance malbec, you have a wine that is deeply colored with pronounced aromatics of plum, cassis, and touch of white pepper spiciness. This little beauty has the richness of the ’03 vintage without being overdone. It offers a silky, broad, yet balanced mouthfeel, very fine tannins and a long finish. Drink this for the next five to eight years. Anderson has informed me that this will be one of our house red for the month of May.
The 2004 Domaine de Verquiere Cotes du Rhone ($8.99), from a family vineyard specializing in concentrated field blends, is consistently one of the best-selling Rhones in the store. The usual suspects (grenache, cinsault and syrah) are behind this intense charmer, showing concentrated red fruit and pepper notes.
Anderson has informed me that our last house red for the month will be the 2003 Purisima Canyon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.99), a blend of three different vineyard ranches that originate from Chiles Valley, St. Helena, and Pope Valley. Deep ruby/inky in color, the nose provides lush, ripe aromas of cassis, blackberry, and tea (Earl Gray) tones that are underscored by a mild cedary, toasty tone. In the mouth, you will be treated to a Cabernet that is lush, with finely focused complex fruit, excellent acid structure, integrated soft tannins, hints of chocolate, superb depth of character and a long, lasting finish. This gem should evolve well and drink nicely over the course of the next five to ten years. Any of the above red wines are worth at least a case in your collection.
Our only house white wine for May will be the 2003 Château Reynon Bordeaux Blanc, “Vieilles Vignes” ($11.99). A blend of sauvignon (80%) and semillon, this beautiful old-vine gem offers opulent aromas of lanolin and sweet grapefruit-to-white-peach characteristics. This dry, complex, yet elegant white Bordeaux provides undertones of focused minerality and tons of structure and has a clean, long, mouthwatering finish. This is another extremely successful wine in a vintage that left many producers scratching their heads as to how to handle the heat in August, and will rival such wines as Carbonnieux and Smith-Haut-Lafitte. Eby says to stockpile this gem.
If you have any questions, you can email me at jimbarr@klwines.com. Enjoy this month’s selection or else! —Jim, Anderson, & Eby

Austria: Stadlmann and Zierfandler

A good friend and local Austrian wine authority has started importing some really exciting wines from Austria that we are proud to offer to our customers. The quality of these wines far exceeds the prices we are asking, a benefit of the wines not having many layers of importation and distribution to work through. And you reap the rewards. We have selected three producers to work with starting out and may expand to a few more after my trip this year to meet them. The first and most eye opening for me is a man named Johann Stadlmann, a champion of Zierfandler (yes, that is the grape) of which there are only 100-200 hectares planted on the planet. I cannot recommend these wines enough. I would even be willing to come to your house and personally open the bottle for you, and, of course, have a glass. We have two wines from Stadlmann, two Zierfandlers, which must be some kind of a record for wine stores on El Camino Real. The first is 2004 Stadlmann Zierfandler Classic ($15.99), a great introduction to the grape and a super wine for the summer. It is sleek and dry with high-toned citrus, herbal and a zesty candied grapefruit/ginger aromatics that are refreshing and lively. Then we have one of the most intriguing wines I have tasted in many years, the 2004 Stadlmann Zierfandler Mandel-Höh ($25.99), which I have no doubt belongs among the top wines in Austria and the world. This vineyard site produces a singular wine that is hauntingly beautiful and absolutely serious. It fills you with questions that cannot be answered. An experience unto itself. Drink up. —Jeff Vierra Lover of Marginal Things

A Leap of Faith

Without a doubt, Germany is the king of riesling. But, there are so many other exciting things happening here. When I say these are well worth considering as they will tempt your palate and your mind.
2004 Schloss Saarstein Pinot Blanc ($15.99) Yet another stunning example from Christian and Andrea Ebert. This 100% pinot blanc, also known as weiss burgunder, is a beautiful expression of pure, clean fruit treated with minimal cellar manipulation and maximum love. Fresh flowers and summer time fruits jump from the glass and its subtle, slate minerality make this wine a translucent beauty!
2003 Weingut Bürgerspital Würzbürger Stein-Harfe Scheurebe Kabinett ($13.99) Quite possibly the oldest wine estate in all of Germany, founded in 1319, there is just a bit of tradition and knowledge floating around. Yes, sheurebe, a crossbreeding of riesling and silvaner. If you were to smell this blind folded I bet you would think it is a red wine. Rich pears and dark cassis are intertwined with a soft, juicy acid to give us a wine that would be fantastic with some of those sausages just off the grill and a few of those richer cheeses sitting in the fridge.
2003 Bercher Burkheimer Feuerberg Spatburgunder Spätlese trocken ($22.99) A spatburgunder, or pinot noir, showing a plum nose with a sexy edge of dusty earth, sends you into a lighter style of pinot which has a finish of sweet cranberry and zippy acidity. This is not your Central Coast Pinot! 2003 was a fantastic vintage for reds in this area. Just because it is a red from Germany, this should not be overlooked or ignored. Roll the dice, you might get lucky! —Eric Story

Loire and Beyond

There are some exciting things happening on the Direct Import side. I found out to my delight that the Boulays of Chavignol inherited some vines in the famed Monte Damnés vineyard, one of the best sites in all of Sancerre. The 1.2ha parcel is exposed fully to the south with vines between 25- to 45-years old, of course completely hand harvested, vinification taking place in 300L barrels with natural yeast fermentation. The 2004 Boulay Sancerre Montes Damnés ($26.99) is the first release, and our allocation is only 300 bottles. Compared to the Clos du Beaujeu, this wine is overtly more aromatic with spicy aromas hinting at pepper. Where the Beaujeu is subtle and fine, this wine is powerful and concentrated. This is a steal at the price. Hopefully here by now is another favorite, the 2005 Château Soucherie Rosé de Loire ($10.99). We get only one shot to order this wine each year, and last time our supply didn’t last long. We will get a few more cases this year, but it won’t be around much past mid June. Made from 100% cabernet franc, this is pale in color yet packed with bright fruit, a slight earthiness and loads of minerality. On the Alsace front, I had the pleasure of visiting with Martine Becker of Zellenberg when she was in San Francisco. Her wines are clean and vibrant, precise and mineral. I am very excited about the Becker Cremant d’Alsace ($14.99) a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay made in the traditional method. We should have it by now (fingers crossed), and you will love this for the summer months. This is a sparkler of real depth that is refreshing, lively and invigorating with a fine bead, soft creamy texture and dry mineral finish. --Jeff Vierra

San Francisco Focus

It has begun. The native varietal of the Rhone region is coming on strong. It began conquering the new world in Australia, and it is seeing more acreage in California and Washington planted every year. It didn’t have a movie made about it, and it will never be as successful as the Cabernet grape…. but watch out. Syrah is coming on strong, and California has many styles and flavors that will keep everyone happy. Here are three Syrahs not to be missed:
2002 Clos Saron “Heart of Stone” Syrah ($32.99) Big, juicy, spicy and built to last. This wine is neither over-ripe, over-alcoholic nor over-oaked. For those of you (like me) who prefer pure fruit and balance, this Syrah has it all. Just 139 cases made!
2003 Unti Dry Creek Syrah ($21.99) Another gem from the Unti family, this is probably their best Syrah to date. A very pretty wine with great length, richness and beautiful balance. The 15% grenache adds depth and character. 1,500 cases produced.
2001 Steele “Parmelee-Hill” Sonoma Syrah ($15.99) This wine is a great every-day syrah with cola and cherry notes. Fabulous fruit in the mid palate and a long balanced finish. 500 cases made. See you in the City… —Mike Jordan

Trey’s May Picks

This month we are featuring a special on two wines that are not only limited but are also at a great price. The Pinots and Chards from Saintsbury are quite well known and enjoyed by many consumers. A little less known are the single-vineyard wines they produce from the Brown Ranch. The Brown Ranch Vineyard was planted in the early ’90s in the northeast section of the Carneros appellation. The ranch has a combination of typical Carneros clay loams soil as well as some volcanic soil types on steeper hillsides. Three separate Dijon clones are planted on four different rootstocks. The wines from the Brown Ranch always show an intense concentration as well as a unique terrior. I have seen these wines sell for close to $75 per bottle. It think that at the prices we are offering them this month, these wines are not to be missed!
2003 Saintsbury “Brown Ranch” Carneros Chardonnay ($29.99) Very toasty and rich, with sweet fruit, hints of hazelnuts, butter and green apples. If you like full-throttle Chardonnay you will enjoy this. I think this wine is comparable to other Chardonnays that sell for over $40!
2003 Saintsbury “Brown Ranch” Carneros Pinot Noir ($39.99) Bright, concentrated and lively strawberry fruit is followed by a fresh, spicy finish. Not the over-extracted style that is so popular now, but more of a classic expression of pinot noir. Good acidity and its medium body will allow this to pair well with a variety of foods.
Just the other day I tasted the 2004 Hirsch Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($59.99), and I had to write about it. Sourced by the likes of Kistler, Williams Selyem, Flowers, Siduri and Littorai—among other top California Pinot producers, the growers of this famed vineyard on Sonoma's Coast decided to make their own Pinot Noir in 2002. The 2004 shows intense fruit that is ripe and velvety with a silky, fresh finish that lingers in the mouth. The wine is pure and balanced. It should age well in a cellar over the next 10+ years.
—Trey Beffa

Spotlight on More Surprises!

Okay, last month some were surprised by the historic importance of merlot only to be reminded about that April 1st thing. This month I’ll come clean. No misleading here; these surprises are going to be real. What I’ve found this month is an flip-flop of wine regions. Normally we look for bargains from places like Paso Robles, and expect to pay through the nose for anything with the word Napa on it. But this month, we’ve received three new wines that have turned these categories upside down. No foolin’!
One of our new releases in the hot $20-Cabernet category is the 2003 Waterstone Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.99). Immensely enjoyable now, no need to decant or cellar, this tasty treat gives you nothing but beautiful, luscious fruit and a long, velvety finish. You can almost see the tears of relief in my eyes. Gas prices may be going up, but all hope is not lost in Cabernet. Somebody out there still likes us.
Now, onto a producer that has refocused their efforts over the recent years. Artesa winery, besides being a great place to visit, has consistently produced great Chardonnays and Pinots without much fanfare or hype. Now, they’ve outdone themselves with the 2002 Artesa Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99). This is a remarkably affordable, high-class Cabernet that might leave you wondering why you have pay more for great Cabs.
The mood shifts considerably when you experience the 2003 L’Aventure Paso Robles Optimus ($35.99) for the first time. This effort comes fully loaded with everything you expect from greatness. A blend of mostly syrah and cabernet, this beauty shows persistent acidity, refined tannins, elegant multi-layered fruit, a seamless finish and an overall sense of quality thats unusual to find (yet) in Paso Robles. This gem’s easily as good as some of the pricier names to the north. Do yourself a great favor and diversify your portfolio so to speak, by investing in a few of these for the cellar. You’ll be rewarded nicely. —Martin Reyes

Baby Cult Wine!

Cult wines come and get so popular that no one can find or afford them, but no one seems to point out the cult wines in the making. Let’s change that right now. Watch out for Sonoma Coast Vineyards. I have some delicious wines for you this month!
2003 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Chardonnay ($36.99) This explosive newcomer is brimming with rich west Sonoma fruit. Spicy ripe pear and figs dominate the nose, which is interlaced with a lees-y and rich Crème Broulee/French oak nose. On the palate this wine just screams, dare I say it, Kistler Killer! At less than half the price of Kistler’s Chards, this rich and powerful Chardonnay has an incredible texture of beeswax/lanolin and unctuousness while maintaining acidity that tells you right away this is west Sonoma Chardonnay. You’ll find rich succulent pear and fuji apple fruit, with an intriguing note of tangerine. The wine maintains acidity, (malo was discouraged) and an elegant silky smooth and very long finish. If you have enjoyed the high-end Dutton Goldfields and Kistlers but don’t want to spend a fortune, give this a spin and see for yourself. A guaranteed “wow” and a great savings to boot!
2003 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir ($44.99) Well, I’m going to have to use explosive again because that describes this wine to a tee! Monstrous amounts of intense cherry liqueur-ish fruit dominate the nose with a warm blush of French oak (50% new) and spicy blackberry juice undertones. The palate again bursts with intense fruit and a dusty Asian spice, intense and viscous. This is not a Pinot for the faint of heart. It is truly a wine for the cult Pinot lover. If you love the Kistlers, William Selyems, Martinellis, Rochiolis of the Pinot World, you owe it to yourself to try this blockbuster before it becomes impossible to find too. —Shaun Green

Palette Pleasers!

If you’ve ever made a pilgrimage to Aix en Provence, chances are pretty good that you’ve been through Palette. This tiny appellation (one of the first to gain appellation controllee status) is located directly southeast of this most famous Provencal town. Herein lies one of the most famous and grand wine estates in all of France: Château Simone. A majestic limestone outcropping, combined with meticulous viticulture and traditional vinification techniques endow the wines from Simone with that special je ne sais quoi. Those of you who know Provence most likely already know of Simone. For those of you who do not, you should. Like the cicada, lavender and olives, the wines of Château Simone are responsible for making the region as magical and unique as it is.
Along with Domaine Tempier’s Bandol, I consider Château Simone’s Rosé to be a vinous icon of the Provencal way of life. The grapes for the 2004 Château Simone Palette Rosé Provence ($31.99) are the usual suspects for this part of France: grenache, mourvèdre and syrah with small amounts of cinsault, carignane and other local varieties. But at Simone, they translate into a rosé unlike any other. Were talking power here, and a certain something serious. The rosé is fermented in small foudres and is then racked into barriques and left on the lees until the following spring. Rich with raspberries and herbs, this mouth-filling rosé holds onto its natural acidity, as it does not undergo malolactic fermentation. This wine costs as much as many reds. Fortunately it has the concentration and complexity to go along with the price. Serve it with serious food and be prepared to learn a thing or two about rosé. Best from 2006-2008.
The 2003 Château Simone Palette Blanc, Provence ($31.99) is composed primarily of clairette, with some grenache blanc and other local varieties. The white is fermented in small foudres and is then racked into barriques and left on the lees for one year. As it does not undergo malolactic fermentation (thanks to the very cool cellars of this historic château), the wine also exhibits great natural acidity. This is truly one of the Grand Vins of Southern France! Rich and textured, with notes of hazelnut, bartlett pear and meyer lemon, over time the wine will develop hints of resin, nuts and herbs. A must for any serious collector of French wines. Best from 2008-20015. —Mulan Chan

Not Your Average Joes!

After many months of anticipation I am excited to announce the arrival of the 2004 St. Josephs from Pierre Coursodon. The Coursodons are one of the most revered domaines in the appellation, and for very good reason. The wines are beautiful expressions of syrah and marsanne, with just the right amount of fruit, power and acidity.
2004 St. Joseph Blanc Pierre Coursodon ($25.99) This classic St. Joseph blanc represents all that is fresh, vibrant and inviting about the Rhone valley. Fresh cut flowers, white nectarine and orange blossom honey make this marsanne a brilliant way to start your Provencal meal, or pair with brandade or poached fish. Best from 2006-2008.
2004 St. Joseph Blanc Pierre Coursodon “Le Paradis Saint-Pierre” ($32.99) I am not normally fond of overt oak influence, especially in whites. After trying a bottle of 1998 Le Paradis last year, I’ve been humbled. Buttered apricots with a hint of roasted nuts and a rich waxy lanolin texture. All of this richesse over a solid framework of acidity and brightness. What an over achiever! Best between 2009-2013.
2004 St. Joseph Pierre Coursodon ($25.99) This classic cuvee is forward, fresh and charming, with notes of violets, blackcurrant, rosehips and a whiff of tobacco on the finish. Almost pinot-esque in character, this elegant syrah will absolutely sing with grilled Ahi tuna steaks topped with a dollop of tapenade. Best from 2006-2009.
2004 St. Joseph Pierre Coursodon “l’Olivaie” ($32.99) This prestige cuvee hails from 80+ year old vines. The 2004 vintage exhibits supple-textured ripe fruit, with whiffs of mineral, wet earth and smoke. This more powerful syrah will benefit from a couple years cellar time. However if you cannot wait, then decant for several hours and enjoy with heartier fare. Best from 2008-2013. —Mulan Chan

Jim C’s View Down Under: Neudorf

In what is the relatively young New Zealand wine industry, Tim and Judy Finn are pioneers. They planted their vineyards in 1978 in Nelson on the northern tip of the south island just northwest of Marlborough. The vines are planted on a gentle north-facing slope overlooking a branch of the Moutere Valley, which is one of the
most sunny areas offering 2300 hours of sunlight per year with clear skies allowing rapid cooling at night. This is an estate that is driven by quality and character. Get these wines while you can.
The 2004 Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc Nelson ($16.99) is blended from two different vineyards Moutueka, the cooler one giving bright lime and gooseberry and Brightwater showing more tropical and stone fruit characture. Small barrel fermetation gives texture and weight to the wine, which has fine acidity and length. The 2004 Neudorf Chardonnay Nelson ($22.99) shows smoky notes with citrus, minerals, honey and a hint of butterscotch. There is a Burgundian feel here with fine acid and a long finish. The 2004 Neudorf Pinot Noir Nelson ($23.99) sees mostly Dijon clones from the Moutere vineyard. There are notes of dark plum, black cherry and spice with the wine unfined and unfiltered. The 2004 Neudorf Pinot Noir “Moutere” Nelson ($39.99) is more structured with elements of dark strawberry, cherry, meats, a little smoky bacon fat and clove. There is superb concentration and length. Cheers! —Jimmy C

Super and Second to None!

Greeting once again from the world’s smallest tasting bar, where it is perfectly clear that in the kingdom of wine, size just doesn’t matter!
On a rainy Saturday in March, an all-time-record number of customers showed up for our monthly in-store Bordeaux tasting. Everyone was lured by multiple vintages from the great super-second growth Ch. Cos d’Estournel from St-Estèphe, and the chance to taste them, along side the newly hired assistant to the director of Cos. The Cos wines showed well indeed; the new assistant did not show up at all! Rumor has it that she decided to leave the company car at the Bordeaux airport and head to some of the finest resorts in the south of France.
As always, the wines of Cos stood tall. Pagodes de Cos 2001 and 2002 (the second wine of Cos) both showed very well, the 2001 Pagodes de Cos ($26.99) was much more elegant, lightly spiced with berries and earth, perfect for drinking now, while the 2002 Pagodes de Cos ($22.99) was much darker, firmer and a couple of years away from its best drinking.

With anxious eyes sneaking a peak at the famous 2000 Cos d’Estournel ($114.99) awaiting at the end of the tasting, people were blown away by the complexity and quality of the 2002 Cos d’Estournel (Inquire). The perfect example of why you should throw your vintage charts out with the trash. It tasted almost exactly as it did the first time I tasted the wine at the estate on April 3rd, 2003…a big attack and strike of spicy ripe grapes on the nose, almost thick, very rich and long in the mouth, hitting every area perfectly and finishing very long. This is a great wine, even tastes good now. *** 3 stars (the most I give a barrel sample), reflecting the fact that I believe it will truly be a classic wine of greatness. No joke, this could be the wine of the vintage bar none! The pressure was on the 2000 to perform and the reality is that its prime time is a long, long way down the road. Tightly wound dark fruit that is strong like a bull, unyielding at this young stage. The nose shows great promise. This is Englishmen’s claret. Stay away for at least 10 more years. As a special treat to our attendees, the director of Cos, Jean-Guillaume Prats, invited us to pour the most famous wine his father, Bruno Prats, ever made: 1982 Cos d’Estournel. Right out of the bottle it was delicious and fragrant, so beautifully developed, soft spice, cheese, and earth all perfectly integrated into the wine and the reason you age the great wines of Bordeaux.
Our K&L wine dinners are without question some of the greatest culinary and wine deals you will ever experience, and many of our customers travel across the country to attend. Our good friend, the director of Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Mr. Gildas d’Ollone, was recently our guest of honor at the fine Cetrella Bistro in Half Moon Bay. The highlight wines from the five-course meal included the 2003 Ch. Bernadotte ($20.99). This Médoc estate has nice ripeness, elegance as well as firmness—a complete wine and great price.
The 1995 and 1996 Pichon-Lalandes served out of magnums are truly great wines, but, much like 2000 Cos d’Estournel, they need time in the cellar, up to 10-plus years to be in their prime. This point was made even clearer when Clyde and I tasted the 1994 out of magnum. The wine is still vibrantly fresh, young and delicious. We both smiled at each other almost laughingly; it was fantastic. I hope you can join us at a tasting or dinner sometime in the upcoming future.
Please feel free to contact me anytime with questions or advice on the wines of Bordeaux at ex 2723 or Ralph@klwines.com. Cheers and Go Giants! —Ralph Sands

Bearden’s Bargain Bordeaux

2003 Bordeaux and a few late release 2002s are arriving here at K&L daily, and now is a great time to stock up on some of these bargains.
2002 de Sales, Pomerol ($24.99) The stars of the 2002 Bordeaux vintage are disappearing from our shelves, so this phenomenal bargain has arrived just in time. This is approachable, affordable Pomerol with sweet cherry flavors and berry aromas on a long elegant frame with very fine tannin. We just love it when an underachiever steps up to make a great wine that sells for a song. Good Pomerol usually costs three times as much!
2003 de Pez, St-Estèphe ($27.99) This amazing wine has been a standout at two events already this year: at a large dinner at the University Club in San Francisco, and at my Bordeaux tasting at the store here in the city. Tons of upfront ripe fruit mesh beautifully with earthy aromas and a rich, sweet palate impression. The ripe aspects of the vintage blend well with the brute strength style of this property resulting in the most delicious wine they have made in years. Not to be missed!
2003 Serilhan, St-Estèphe ($19.99) This 40-year-old property has made considerable improvements in the last decades, and you can taste them and more in this fleshy yet forceful bargain. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points and this review: “Aromas of currant, berry and light spice follow through to a full-bodied palate. Thick, jammy texture and a medium finish.” This will age nicely for eight years or so, but we think it is drinking well right now.
2003 Perron, Lalande de Pomerol ($19.99) This tiny estate makes wonderful, ripe and lush wine from 80% merlot and 10% each cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Soils here are sandy and gravelly, ideal for making soft Right Bank Bordeaux. This sweet, round value has very fine tannin and is perfect for tonight or whenever you need a great glass of wine that won’t break the bank.
—Steve

Don’t Say I Didn’t Tell You So

Last month I mentioned the super-hyped 2005 Bordeaux vintage and that if you wanted some of these wines to get your name on our waiting lists for these wines. More and more we are hearing about the greatness of the vintage, and the severe allocations of the top wines. If you love Bordeaux and want 2005s, PLEASE ADD YOUR NAME (OR HAVE ONE OF OUR STAFF DO IT) TO THE WAITING LISTS OF YOUR FAVORITE WINES. When the wines are released we will let you know the price and you can then decide if and what to buy.
Also look for our blog on our trip to Bordeaux. It may provide some very useful insight into the great value wines of the vintage. As I write this on April 1st, I do not know what to expect when we arrive in Bordeaux on Monday, April 3rd, but I have an idea that we will be greeted with very high prices. —Clyde Beffa Jr

2003 is in the House!

WOW! Talk about a vintage that packs some fruit. Where to start with this incredible vintage? I guess with what was one of my favorite estates in 2002, Châteaux Pedesclaux ($19.99), which was not only good for cellaring but also quite inexpensive. The 2003 Château Pedesclaux ($20.99) continues the classic Pauillac style with great balance and a very elegant finish that keeps going like the energizer bunny. Cherry, anise as well as a bite of dusty quality on the nose reinforces my opinion that this estate has changed for the better. Cellar or drink today.

2003 Cambon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc ($17.99) has also just arrived and is showing great. Slightly closed on the nose, it packs tons of red fruit, currant and a bit of cocoa. It’s very clean, elegant but also shows oak and tannins on the finish. Decant or keep for the next 5-10 years.
If you’re looking for something that you don’t have to wait for, the 2003 Château La Fleur, St-Emilion ($26.99) is right for you. Talk about ripe berries, sweet plum, raisin, very rich cocoa, great texture. Decant for a short period and enjoy! Will also cellar for the next five years.
How about a sweet tooth to finish the day? The 1997 Château Guiraud ($46.99) is a steal for the vintage. Great richness, pineapple, coconut, and spices come to mind. Balance of the fruit, botrytis and the acidity ensure that this sauternes will last in your cellar.
—Alexandre Brisoux

April 12, 2006

2005 Bordeaux Tasting Notes-Updated April 12

We tasted wines 1) at the properties from April 3rd to April 7th 2) at the UGC tastings on April 4th, 5th, 6th. 3) at negociant offices and 4) at the big Joanne tasting on April 10th.We tasted many more wines than those listed below and will offer some of these wines below on a futures basis. As to the ratings below:
** to***Outstanding to Classic wines. Best of the vintage (that we tasted)
* to *1/2 Very good to Excellent wines
½* Good wines-could be values

Bordeaux Blanc, Graves, and Pessac-Leognan Blanc

Pavillon Blanc de Margaux, Bordeaux **
14.5 degrees alcohol and you can’t taste it. Pear aromas and creamy texture. Richer than the 2004. Tons of spice.

Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Léognan *
Some oak and good palate entry. Nicely balanced.

de Fieuzal, Pessac-Léognan

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Léognan *1/2
Very elegant wine with some flowers and citrus on the nose. Very fine length. Nice wine.

Haut Bergey Blanc, Pessac-Léognan

Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac-Léognan ***
52% sauvignon blanc and 48% semillon. Wow! Classic white graves nose with minerals and some toasty notes. White flowers and touch of honey. Fills the mouth and stays there. Intense but in perfect harmony. The finish lasts a minute. Delicious.

Laville Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan **1/2
78% semillon, 22% sauvignon blanc and 1% muscadelle. Toasty oak and pear aromas-extremely rich and powerful with nutty undertones. some grapefruit flavors and on finish. Very round and lush.

Latour Martillac, Pessac *
Good richness and focused fruit. Grapefruit flavors. Nice.

Malartic Lagraviere Blanc, Pessac-Léognan *
A bit toasty with clean lemony fruit flavors and touch of oak. Fine concentration and some tropical notes. Good

Marjosse Blanc, Entre deux Mers
Citric nose and flavor. Easy drinker.

Pape Clement Blanc, Pessac *
Finely balanced upfront. A bit hot at the end. Let it settle down.

Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac-Léognan *
Quite oaky and fat on the entry. Good acid at the back. Needs to settle down.

2005 S de Suduiraut, Bordeaux *+
A wonderful spicy pear aroma that followed to the palate. Very rich wine with sweet tart flavors and lingering finish. Quite deep. 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon.


Graves Rouge, Pessac-Léognan Reds

Carbonnieux Rouge, Pessac-Léognan
Lighter style. Sweet and fruity. Easy drinker.

Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Léognan *
Toasty oak aromas. Sweet red fruits. Excellent wine.

Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan **
58% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot and 6% cabernet franc. Super sweet blackberry aromas. Tons of ripe fruit on the palate. Silky also and fruit covers ample tannins. Great balance and lingering finish. One of the best from an area that suffered from the lack of moisture. Buy this.

Visit to Haut Brion:
10:30 am April 7th: In all of our years of going to Haut Brion (since 1985), we have never tasted such a fine range of wines. Every one was good and easy to taste, unlike most trips here. Some people think that Haut Brion may be best of vintage?

2005 Bahans Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan *1/2
45% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 30% cabernet franc. More mineral aromas and flavors but deeper core of fruit. Red fruits dominate. Very elegant and long finish. Delicious second wine.

2005 Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan *
60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and10 cabernet franc. Nice black fruit aromas and black cherry on the palate. Fine mid weight and nice finish.

Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan ***
56% merlot, 39 cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc. Very mineral aromas with black raspberry nuances. Regal palate entry. Sweet and lush. Very thick and broad on the palate. Mouth coating with layers of fruit. Great breed and tannins there but covered for now.

2005 La Tour Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan *?
Most of my crew loved this, while I had hard time tasting it. 41% cabernet franc, 32% merlot and 27% cabernet sauvignon. Tight and closed but great weight on the palate.

La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan **+
69% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 1% cabernet franc. Chocolate aromas that follow to the palate. Sexy, exotic wine. Blackberry and coffee on the palate. Very focused and elegant style. Pure and more delicate than Haut Brion.

Latour Martillac, Pessac-Léognan
Good entry-a bit dry on back end.

La Tour Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan

Malartic Lagraviere, Pessac-Léognan *1/2
Sweet, fresh, liberal dashes of oak. Good mid-palate sweetness. Should be a value.

Pape-Clément, Pessac-Léognan *1/2+
Toasty, bacony aromas and flavor. Pushed but in balance. Some people will love it.

Smith-Haut-Lafitte Rouge, Pessac-Léognan
Toned down oak-very good balance and structure. Tasted four times. This will be a very fine in a few years.


Médoc, Haut-Médoc

Arnauld, Haut-Médoc
Light, elegant and soft on palate. Watch for it.

Bernadotte, Haut-Médoc *
48% cabernet sauvignon, 48% merlot and 3% cabernet franc. Black fruit. Mid weight. Shows a lot of spice on the nose. Nice elegant wine.

Beaumont, Haut-Médoc ½*
Toasty oak aromas and red fruit flavors. Elegant style. Easy drinker. Value?

Camensac, Haut-Médoc
Sweet for the property. Should be a value.

Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Rough and tannic. Try again.

Chasse Spleen, Moulis *
Good sweetness on palate. Deep and broad on palate.

Clement Pichon, Haut-Médoc
Good blackberry fruit. A little dry.

Citran, Haut-Médoc
Very extracted and tannic.

Goulee, Médoc

La Lagune, Haut-Médoc *1/2
Very sweet fruit-long on palate. Little oaky. Lingering. Jammy. Lovely on palate.

Latour Carnet, Haut-Médoc *
Toasty, oaky flavors. Nice nose. Good, fresh style. Vibrant. Texture fine.

Maucaillou, Moulis
Good upfront fruit on palate. Dries out in back. Sample?

Potensac, Médoc *
41% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 19% cabernet franc. Reserved nose. Big and rich with tannins evident. A little rustic but sweet overall. Tasted three times.

Poujeaux, Moulis
Swwet fruit, lively on palate. Not big, but great balance. Lingers on palate.

Senejac, Haut-Médoc ½*
Nice flavor. Has sweetness on palate. Buy on arrival.

Sociando Mallet, Haut-Médoc *1/2
Substantial wine with tons of oak and fruit. Very fine quality. This is serious wine.

St-Estèphe

Calon Segur, St-Estèphe **
Meaty aromas, toasty, elegant. Broad on palate and very good elegance. Superb wine in mid-weight range. Enjoy young.

Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe *+
50% cabernet sauvignon and 50% merlot. Deep color. Wonderful toasty oak aromas. Sweet, forward fruit on palate. One of the best Pagodes if not the best.

Cos d’Estournel, St-Estèphe **1/2+
78% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot and 3% cabernet franc. More cabernet than usual-even more than 2003 or 2004. They went for elegance and finesse here this year and boy did it work. Concentrated nose of berries and currants and toasty oak. Fabulous palate entry-layers and layers of fruit. Very polished wine of great breed-is it better than 2003? It surely will outlive that vintage. Delicious.

Haut Marbuzet, St-Estèphe

Lafon Rochet, St-Estèphe
Tough on palate. A little too tannic.

les Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe *1/2
58% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot and 6% cabernet franc. Black cherry on the nose. Expressive, vibrant, supper mid-palate with a sweet lovely texture. 53 hectoliters per hectare and 13.3% alcohol, but the wine does not show the alcohol. More vibrant on palate. Good core of sweet fruit. Good value wine.

Meyney, St-Estèphe *1/2+
52% Cabernet, 28% Merlot, 29% Petit Verdot. Sweet and lush-delicious. Elegant style. We love this wine. Ready sooner than most. Mouth-coating wine. Elegance personified. New school Meyney-buy it. Tasted three times with consistent notes.

Montrose, St-Estèphe **
65% cabernet sauvignon, 31% merlot, 3.5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Huge wine! Closed on the nose. Huge on the palate. Very concentrated with peppery spice-almost syrah-like. Masculine style wine, mouth-coating. Not very subtle. Age this for a long time. 20-year wine.

Phelan Segur, St-Estèphe *+
50% cabernet sauvignon and 50% merlot. Fabulous nose of boysenberries and toasty oak and chocolate. Sweet, lush, and very spicy. Quite concentrated. They are doing good things at this property these days. Tasted four times.


Pauillac
We went to Lafite on Tuesday April 4th:

Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac *1/2
49% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 6% other. Elegant nose with sweet fruit palate entry. Black cherry flavors. Good grip on the palate. Could be a winner.

Duhart Milon, Pauillac *1/2
71% cabernet sauvignon and 29% merlot. More closed on the nose-bigger wine than Carruades. Focused and no weediness here this year. Ralph and Steve loved it. Could be a value.

Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac **1/2+
88% cabernet sauvignon, 11% merlot and .5% petit verdot. Concentrated nose of cassis, tobacco, and mineral aromas explode from the glass. Creamy texture. Layers of sweet, ripe fruit. Seductive upfront and broad on the mid-palate. Regal wine.

Clerc-Milon, Pauillac *+
48% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Lighter nose, with a lot of red fruit and crushed berries. Sweet mid palate. A little short. Pretty good wine.

d'Armailhac, Pauillac *
60% cabernet sauvignon, 29 merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Lots of red fruit. A little closed. Good entry on the palate, with a little orange zest. Nice mouthfeel. Holding back a little bit. Nice wine.

Grand Puy Ducasse, Pauillac *
62% cabernet sauvignon and 38% merlot. Closed on nose. Big wine. Tannic but could be good. After being opened an hour, the fruit really comes through here. Sweet core of fruit emerges. Lingers on the palate.

Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac *1/2?
Lots of mineral on nose, but holding back. Reserved right now. Should be great, hard to taste.

Haut Batailley, Pauillac
Soft and elegant-little orange zest. Lighter style.

Haut Bages Liberal, Pauillac

Latour
5:10 PM on April 4th.
As we walked into the Latour tasting