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Please join us this summer for Thursday evening wine tastings. Education never tasted so good!
July 6th – Matanzas Creek Vineyards and Hartford Sonoma Vineyards.
July 13th – Vintage 59. An importer of fine French wines
July 20th – Domaine Serene and Ponzi Vineyards
July 27th – Tin Barn
August 3 – Kathryn Kennedy
At K&L Wine Merchants' Tour of Champagne Tasting held in the San Francisco store June 17, 2006
These were the selections on hand:
No. 1- N/V Ariston Aspasie Blanc de Blancs, Brouillet-$29.99
100% Chardonnay. Blend from the 1998 and 1999 vintage. See map-14 miles Northwest of Reims.
No. 2- N/V Franck Bonville Brut Selection Blancs de Blancs, Avize-$23.99 (1.5L-$49.99)
100% Chardonnay. Blend from the 2000, 2001 and 2002 vintage. See map.
No. 3- N/V Hubert Paulet Brut Tradition, Rilly a Montagne-$27.99
50% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir. 1999/200 vintage. See map-Close to Mailly-Champagne.
No.4- N/V Hubert Paulet Brut Prestige Risleus, Rilly a Montagne-$49.99
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay. 1999, 2000 and 2001 vintage. 100% barrel fermentation.
No. 5- N/V Philippe Gonet Brut Reserve, Vertus-$27.99 (1.5L-$59.99)
60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier. 70% 2001 and 30% 2000 Reserve vintage in the final blend. See map-about 1 mile South of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger.
No. 6- Fleury “Carte Rouge” Brut, Courteron-$29.99 (1.5L-$64.99)
100% Pinot Noir. See map-In the Aube 30 miles South of Reims.
No. 7- N/V Tarlant Cuvee Louis Brut Prestige, Oeuilly-$39.99 (1.5L-$99.00)
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir. 1996 and 1997 vintage. See map-6 miles West of Epernay in the Valley of the Marne.
No. 8- N/V Laurent Perrier “Grand Siecle”, Grand Cru-$74.99 (1.5L-$159.00)
50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. 20% from the 1993 vintage, 20% from the 1995 vintage and 60% from the 1996 vintage. Various vineyard sourcing primarily in the Valley of the Marne.
No. 9- N/V Franck Bonville Belles Voyes, Avize-$59.99
100% Chardonnay from Oger. From the 1998 vintage. See map.
No. 10- 1985 Rene Collard Cuvee Speciale Rose Brut, Reuil-$69.99
100% Pinot Meunier. 88% vinified as sparkling white and 12% vinified as still red. See map-3 to 4 miles West from Epernay in the Valley of the Marne.
This month I want to talk a little about the Beyond, a word that I incorporated into the title long ago to allow for a broader exploration of wine. This somewhere is called Jurançon, and I visited there last month. The grapes are gros mansang and petit mansang and a bit of courbu, not French names for other grapes but real indigenous wonders, grown here for centuries on terraced hills in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Ripeness is essential here, as the Mansang Brothers have very high natural acidity that when tamed by the sun produces a fresh, snappy dry wine with aromas of red grapefruit, fennel and white flowers. Try 2004 Jurançon Sec Clos Lapeyre ($12.99) as an aperitif or the 2004 Jurançon Sec Charles Hours “Cuvee Marie” ($17.99) with more involved cuisine. There are also the traditional Moelleux wines made from grapes that have been naturally dried on the vine, rich and textural, yet never cloying with flavors of pineapple, quince and acacia honey. Open the 2004 Jurançon Moelleux Clos Uroulat Charles Hours ($26.99) for an unbelievable treat with foie gras.
Other exciting news is that we just received our first shipment from Joël Taluau, a fabulous grower in St. Nicolas de Bourgueil known for making some of the purest expressions of cabernet franc in the Loire. All is hand harvested, cuvees are based on vine age and soil composition, wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel, with a light fining and no filtration before bottling. We have two wines that just arrived. The 2002 Joël Taluau Cuvée de Domaine ($14.99) is from 20-40 year old vines. I actually drank a bottle with lunch by chance at Deletang in Montlouis with a beautiful grilled steak as big as my head. The wine was juicy and luscious with bright violety aromas and a core of sweet supple fruit. The 2004 Joël Taluau Vieilles Vignes ($16.99), from a single plot planted in 1934, has power, depth and grace, this their flagship wine will improve for the next 7-9 years but can be enjoyed now for those of you who like a mouthful of wine. Here’s to you!
—Jeff Vierra
I just returned from a week in Germany and Austria tasting the new vintage and getting to know new growers. I mentioned last month that I was to visit Stadlmann in Austria and hopefully taste older Zierfandler, which I did. A 1992 Zierfandler Igeln was proof positive that this is a wine of substance, powerfully dry, dense and firm with a wondrously spicy nose and length to die for. Also newly arriving are some 2005 Grüner Veltliners from Bernard Ott in the Wagram-Donauland an up and coming young star in Austria who works only with stainless steel to preserve the fruit and fully express what the soil has to offer. His wines have verve and a steely firmness that drives the flavor home. The 2005 Ott Grüner Veltliner Am Berg ($13.99) is is his lightest wine at 11.5%, but this baby is fresh, juicy and peppery, not at all slight in size. It will put a smile on your face. Coming soon we will have the 2005 Ott Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg ($14.99), made from younger vines and the first pickings of his oldest vines, all hand harvested. A purely mineral wine with a high note of wild cherry, pepper and plum. Also on the way is the 2005 Ott Grüner Veltliner Faß # 4 ($18.99), a blend of five vineyards, from his second picking. He calls this his gastronomic wine. It is deeper, more textured yet still fresh and vibrant.
Germany, too, has a tale to tell this vintage. For now let us just say that the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is King. Johannes Selbach feels this is his greatest vintage since he has been in charge of the winery. Manfred Prüm has stated it is his best in the last 40 years, I heard similar things from most growers, and the wines backed it up. More on that front soon… Live in the Light! —Jeff Vierra
2004 Burgans Albarino ($9.99) Albarino is the most famous wine from the Rias Baixas. Many people liken this varietal to Viognier, but I find it has a more delicate quality. Full of fruit and quite refreshing, the Burgans will be great drinking throughout the summer.
2004 Gramona Gessami ($11.99) 90 points Parker: “A terrific buy … Exotic waxy notes intermixed with notions of rose water, acacia flowers, and minerals jump from the glass of this medium-bodied white. It possesses a fruity, dry, intense, pure, spicy personality.”
2004 Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Roble, La Mancha ($9.99) Made from 100% cencibel, the local name for tempranillo, this tinto is made using a blend of traditional and modern methods…spending some time in large clay amphoras known as tinajas and aged for 5 months in a mix of French and American oak. Full and fleshy, this red from La Mancha has plenty of ripe black cherry fruit and a long finish. Perfect with your favorite grilled steak!
2001 Quinta de Roriz Reserva, Portugal ($16.99) 91 points Wine Spectator: “Full-bodied, deep-colored and rich with lip-smacking flavors of dark plum, blackberry jam, cocoa and a hint of French roast as well. Tannins build on the finish, but with an appealing silkiness and dark chocolate notes that go on and on. Drink now through 2008.”
2003 Bodegas Tikalo Kios, La Mancha ($16.99) 90 points from Robert Parker: “The outstanding 2003 Kios (100% Tempranillo) is an exceptional bargain. Attractive blackberry and blueberry aromas are followed by elegant, medium to full-bodied flavors. Tremendous density, purity, and ripeness cascade over the palate in this seamless beauty. It should drink well for 1-3 years.” Buen Provecho!
—Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com
I have just returned from a fall time trip to South America and have had some awesome wines from Argentina and Chile. Here are a few suggestions for your casa this summer or for any season!
2005 De Martino Organic Sauvignon Blanc, Chile ($12.99) The South American wine press always ranks the wines from De Martino at the top of the heap. Their latest offering is this organic Sauvignon. Fresh and full of citrus flavors, the perfect aperitif or poolside sipper.
2003 Santa Ema Reserve Carmenere, Chile ($12.99) This offering from Santa Ema shows of all of the charming qualities this often maligned varietal. Full of soft plummy fruit, this red has aromas of tobacco, currants and vanillin oak. Enjoy this Carmenere with grilled pork chops!
2004 Pascual Toso Reserve Malbec, Argentina ($14.99) The folks at Pascual Toso have been making wine in Maipu since 1890. Recently, they hired to Paul Hobbs as consulting winemaker. The combination of Italian tradition and California flash results in a Malbec with style and grace. Packed with ripe blueberry/blackberry fruit, this inky red has a suave palate feel and a long finish. Fantastic with ribs!
2003 Kaiken Ultra Malbec, Argentina ($17.99) A blend of 92% malbec and 8% cabernet, this red wine is a broad shoulder bruiser with aromas of roasted coffee, oak and blackberry. The burst of ripe fruit really packs a punch on the palate. Enjoy with grilled sausage!
2004 Viña Montes Syrah Colchagua Valley, Chile ($15.99) A wine so good that it will make the angels sing, the Montes Alpha Syrah is packed with blackberry/raspberry fruit and a long peppery finish. This red has more style and substance than wines at twice the price. Perfect for steak! Buen Provecho!
—Anne Pickett
This winter was a rainy one in California, and now that summer is here I want to spend as much time as possible outdoors with friends. Opening Champagne always makes me feel special and a magnum even more so. I try and pop one at every oppurtunity! Because of the increased volume of liquid to air in a magnum, the Champagne always tastes fresher and more exciting from these double bottles. A magnum is a generous format, both in quantity and quality. The Bonville Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs 1.5L ($49.99) is a perfect apertif, racy, elegant and long finishing. For fans of the blanc de noir style the 100% pinot noir, organicly grown Fleury “Carte Rouge” Brut 1.5L ($64.99) is a rich, satisfying Champagne that still finishes completely dry. For caviar in the garden the Ariston Aspasie Brut Prestige 1.5L ($74.99) is spectacular with its old vine power and seven years on the lees. A whole wild salmon and the Tarlant Cuvee Louis Brut Prestige 1.5L ($99.00) is a complete party. One of our best Champagnes at any price, this even blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from the Tarlants oldest plot of vines is often compared to Krug. Please feel free to contact me at 1-800-247-5987 ex 728, or by email garyw@klwines.com with any of your champagne (or sherry!) needs. Please also drop me a line if you would like to be on my list of Champagne customers. A toast to you! —Gary Westby
Many years ago in our little old shipping department, the manager then and now, Brian Keating an ex-wide receiver himself, had a poster of our favorite quarterback, Joe Montana, ready to fire a pass downfield. When I asked Joe to autograph it he wrote the words GO DEEP!
While we spin the tale as well as our wheels waiting for the most famous Bordeaux to be priced, this phrase keeps coming up. Customers going deep into their wine collections and selling precious older bottles to afford the new young wines. I do not recommend this. What I do recommend is that you do go deep, but back to the simple philosophy that in a great vintage there are tremendous amounts of great wines made and that you go very deep into the wide range of selections and values that abound in a vintage like 2005. As is the case with myself, I am not married to certain estates any longer. When wines I’ve collected for many years go from $30 to $100, I look for other wines.
If you are laying the foundation of a wine collection it is a great time for buying Bordeaux. You have a great vintage in 2005, a very good vintage in 2004 that is classic in style and offers fantastic value for some of the world’s most famous wines, and the fine vintage of 2003 arriving this year that features front-loaded fruit and ripeness rarely ever found from the wines of Bordeaux.
Of the early releases so far there is without question something for everyone and in everyone’s comfort zone price wise.
Under $20: Our customers are savvy and like to drink exceptional wine during the week, and they are buying quite a bit of the great values on futures. That is the exact reason we spend so much time working and tasting in Bordeaux, even when people think were nuts. The 2005 Caronne Ste. Gemme ($13.99), located just behind Ch. Lanessan, makes the cut with us for the first time as it has improved every year, gained purity of fruit and lost its rustic edge. Where can you buy a 6L of really good Bordeaux for $139.99? The same exact situation exists at Lanessan, where the wine just keeps getting better and cost $15.99!
Under $30: Three of the greatest buys in this vintage, bar none, are here. The amazing “sweet raspberry fruit and wood, fine integration, the whole package” of Ch. Poujeaux ($26.99) and the “firm structure, fresh nose of cherry and ripe grapes continue across the palate with chalky tannins” of Ch. Chasse Spleen ($26.99). Ch. Meyney ($25.99) has elevated to another world of quality, deep raspberry nose, lovely, silky middle fruit that just continues endlessly on the finish. Wow, what a change, the best I’ve ever tasted! Haut Bergey ($29.99) from Pessac, with its “big, glossy red fruit and earth with structure” is also spectacular.
Under $40: Best winemaker in Bordeaux? Hubert de Bouard of Angelus fame, he may just be the best as his Lalande de Pomerol, La Fleur de Bouard ($33.99) powerfully suggests. “Very dark and sweet Merlot, powerful and fresh all at the same, amazing!” The right bank red from the pistol, Helene Garcin Cathiard’s Ch. Barde Haut ($36.99) is right on the target. “Big red fruit-driven Merlot with a good backbone of tannin, serious and well balanced.” The best deal in all of Pomerol since 1998 is without question Ch. Rouget ($37.99). “Elegant, lovely aromas of spice box and clove in this Merlot, naturally extracted, tasty and refreshing.” The price is also refreshing.
Please feel free to contact me anytime for questions/advise on the wines of Bordeaux or a copy of my personal tasting notes from 2005 at ex 2723 or Ralph@klwines.com. Cheers, Toujours Bordeaux and Go Giants! —Ralph Sands
For the more sophisticated palate, the 1989 Château Siran, Margaux (1.5L $139.99) is your wine. Starting to show the elegance of a well aged wine but still very youthful, you’ll find good berry notes, tobacco leaf, orange peel, as well as a leather character on the finish. I think it still has cellaring potential, but don’t be afraid to open it tonight. Decant!
Another way to go for this festive month is with the very lively 2003 vintage. Starting the line up is the 2003 St. Paul, Haut-Médoc ($10.99), a value-packed cru bourgeois. This well structured wine offers notes of berry and vanilla. Enjoy today and for next few years. The 2003 La Gatte, Bordeaux ($10.99) is an other bargain wine from 2003. Great cherry fruit, just a bit of spice from the oak and a beautiful texture makes this a great pick for any BBQ this summer. Back in stock! Don’t miss it this time! The 2003 Château Saransot-Dupre, Listrac ($18.99) offers an explosion of cassis on the nose with a hints of spice. On the palate this wine has supple tannins that make it approachable today. Enjoy now with grilled meat or cellar. 56% merlot, 24% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 3% petit verdot and 2% carmenere.
This last selection this month is a personal favorite and one of the best second wines: the 2003 Bahans de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan ($41.99). It has very elegant fruit, raspberry, blackberry, cassis, sweet cherry, tabacco leaf and chocolate on the nose. It’s still restrained but opens with decanting and has a clean mineral finish that lasts forever. —Alexandre Brisoux
Let’s take a step back from the 2003 and 2005 Bordeaux wines and look at a few of my favorites for more current enjoyment.
2000 Château Greysac, Médoc ($16.99) One of our old favorites has modernized a bit and the resulting wine is outstanding with a sweet and lush texture. Plenty of richness and flavor and 89 points from the Wine Spectator. Can’t go wrong. Decant one hour.
1999 Château Lalande Borie, St-Julien ($17.99) 65% cabernet, 25% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. Elegant, perfect drinking right now. Plenty of flavor and pleasure for not too much money.
2000 Château Phelan Segur, St-Estèphe ($26.99) Here is a great bargain from a very fine vintage and one of our favorite properties. And you can enjoy this wine in the next few years. Tons of ripe fruit flavors and lingering finish. Great barbecue wine.
1996 Les Pagodes de Cos d’Estournel, St-Estèphe ($29.99) This is a great value visa a vis the latest price for their 2005. Remember that 1996 Cos was one of the best wines of the vintage and we sold 200 cases at $139.00 per bottle. This wine has the structure and depth to cellar well and can be enjoyed now with 2 hr decanting.
1998 Château Malescot-St-Exupery, Margaux ($39.99) I have always loved the wines from this property, but rarely carried them because they had an exclusive arrangement with a large distributor. The property has wonderful terroir and have always been fairly priced. This 1998, while needing some cellar time, shows tons of ripe fruit and a seductive aroma of toasted oak and cassis.
Make your reservations now for Saturday September 9, and join co-owner James Sichel and K&L for a great dinner featuring the wines of Château d’Angludet, one of our favorite châteaux. Wines from 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2003 will be poured as well as a couple of older vintages. This dinner will be held at the outstanding Spago Restaurant in Palo Alto. Reception at 6:30 and dinner at 7:15. Only sixty seats available. Casual elegance is the dress code.
I am truly lucky to continually have the opportunity to, not only meet, but talk and share ideas with people that inspire and change the way I view the world. Some people truly have a passion for the good that they are, and have no idea that they are “that person.” They understand and embrace what and who they are without question and will always continue to build upon what they have and what they’ve done. You know, the person that you talk to and think to yourself, WOW, that’s good peeps, but then, one day further down the road it hits you: I should be like that!
The Hiedler Estate was founded in the late 1800s by grandfather Joseph Hiedler, a pioneer of the Langenlois wine region. It has been family run ever since. Not family run in the sense that it has just been passed down from generation to generation, maintaining operation, A true and undying passion for everything that is Hiedler has also been passed down! From a winery that was one of the first to put their wines into bottles, to an internationally acclaimed estate that is on top of the game and yet, humbly admits, that there is so much simple promise out there to be shared with all. They have, from day one, been in love with the land and all that surrounds it! And now, Ludwig and Maria Angeles continue the tradition of taking responsibility for all that is good, not only in life but in nature and wine. This month I choose not to talk about the vineyard sites, although very important, the pruning philosophy or the work that goes on in the cellar. Instead, I choose to highlight the soul that is the wine of Hiedler. Ludwig and Maria Angeles, along with the inspiration of the three children, have become a fixture in, not only the wine business but also in wine culture. They have somehow figured out how to be in a great, beautiful balance of a pure, thought out, affirmative, understanding, focused, and determined force that makes me sit back and say to myself WOW... Can I be that? I guess, as they say on the street, they’re keepin’ it real!!!! —Eric Story
In May I traveled through the south of France tasting wines on behalf of K&L. One of the standout tastings was with Olivier Hillaire at Domaines de Relagnes. After two hours tasting his 2004s and his 2005s, Oliver presented a bottle of 1979 Relagnes CNP. Covered in cobwebs and cool to the touch, this gorgeously fresh and lush CNP was an absolute gift to behold. Domaine des Relagnes is one class act.
2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Domaine des Relagnes “Tradition” ($33.99) If you are into purity of fruit and a wine that dances on your palate, flirts and teases you with its charm and delicacy, then you must try this wine. Cinnamon stick, red fruit and blackcurrant tea abound.
2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Domaine des Relagnes “Cuvee Vigneronne” ($38.99) Black cherry, rosehips with a bit more depth than the Tradition. Very subtle notes of stone and that “tar” thing give added depth and complexity, while all the while remaining cool and lovely, with fine tannins and exquisite balance.
2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Domaine des Relagnes “Les Petits Pieds d’Armand” ($74.99) (90% grenache 10% syrah) Relagnes’ super cuvee. Up there with Bosquet des Pape’s Chante le Merle in terms of depth, concentration and elegance. Definitely ageworthy (think 10-20 years) but showing beautifully right now, with fine tannins and an oh-so-silky texture. Sublime.
—Mulan Chan
If you ever find yourself in the Languedoc with a hankering for a view of the water, some tasty oysters and a crisp glass of picpoul to wash it all down with then I recommend that you make a pit stop in the town of Bouzigues. Located about halfway between Montpellier and Beziers and overlooking the Bassin de Thau, Bouzigues is the perfect place to spend the afternoon before or after you hit the more pristine and sauvage Languedoc regions of say Minervois or Faugeres. The town itself is charming and quaint and can easily be “walked” within half an hour or so. While you’re at it, please stop by 42 Grand Rue and please say hello my friends Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier. These two young enterprising Frenchmen collectively make up H&B Selections, a new enterprise dedicated to finding some of the best kept fruit sources in the South of France and bringing them to you and me. As I have stated before, the South of France is the new Wild West, and both of these guys are on the cutting edge of quality wine that’s being made down here. I am sure Gregory and Francois might even have a few recommendations on places (both vinous and non) in the region to visit. Below you’ll find two H&B selections that K&L is proud to offer. And watch out for more great wines to come from H&B!
2005 VdP du Cotes de Thau Rosé Hecht & Bannier ($9.99) Strawberry, watermelon and pomegranate nuances abound in this delectable pink wine that pairs with just about anything! H&B’s 2004 rosé was named #1 rosé in last summer’s La Revue du Vins de France, so when K&L had the opportunity to get some of these guys’ 2005, we jumped! This is a K&L exclusive and one heck of a deal.
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Faugeres Hecht & Bannier ($22.99) Dried cherry, star anise and hints of pu-erh tea provide tremendous complexity, while fine tannins and a lengthy finish make this wine a real contender for “wine of the night” at your next Mediterranean themed dinner party. Best from 2007-2015 or decant for one hour and enjoy with heartier fare such as grilled tri-tip or a lamb kabobs! —Mulan Chan
2003 Benziger Sonoma Mountain “Tribute” ($59.99) Winemaker Mike Benziger is passionate about organic farming. The 2003 Benziger Tribute is Demeter-Certified Biodynamic, the highest form of organic farming. Biodynamic farming goes beyond the elimination of all chemicals; it incorporates the environment in and around the vineyards. Mike Benziger feels the differences with this type of farming can also be tasted in the wines. The ’03 Tribute is a blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 11% merlot and 5% petite verdot. The wine shows earthy undertones with an abundance of ripe currant, Bing cherry and cola flavors, which are followed by ripe tannins and a long finish. This wine will be at its best with a few more years in the bottle.
Released last month, the 2003 Dominus ($99.98) is an outstanding wine that should not be missed. 2003 will be remembered as a vintage with a very long growing season, one that continued into November for some blocks. The 2003 is a blend of 88% cabernet sauvignon, 7% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. It is a wine to stick in your cellar and forget about for 10 years. The 2002 Napanook ($39.99), on the other hand, is a wine you can enjoy tonight. The Napanook is a blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 11% merlot, 7% petit verdot and 1% malbec, which is very similar to the Benziger Tribute, grown over the hill. It is reminiscent of a left bank Bordeaux. Aromas of cedar, lead pencil, cassis and spicy vanilla are followed by a wine that is long, balanced and filled with delicate fruit. Decant for an hour or so and enjoy this one.
2003 Miner Family Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.99) In keeping with the big Cabernet theme, the ’03 Miner Family is supple, well-balanced and focused. It seduces you with its firm yet velvety tannins, big, rich middle and long finish that lingers for minutes. Decant and enjoy! —Trey Beffa
Since we started our Direct Import program six years ago I have studiously avoided Chianti Classico. The number of quality producers who produce lots of cases is high, and selling 10,000 cases of Chianti is a daunting task. The smaller wineries I love have long been locked up with other importers, and there never seemed to be much in the way of anything on the horizon. Occasionally things stumble onto your plate. I met Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi a few years ago, and he immediately stuck me as cultured and poised while being a dynamic and confident individual. Marco has sangiovese running through his veins and has become a purist at heart, not wanting to blend international varieties into his Chianti. His wines speak of their soil. His roots go back to Castello di Brolio, where his ancestor the “Iron” Baron Bettino Ricasoli is credited with inventing the modern Chianti blend. Rocca di Montegrossi is Marco’s property. This jewel sits astride a beautiful outcrop of galestro soil in Gaiole (near Monti in Chianti) and is one of Chianti Classico’s top estates! The moon and the stars lined up properly, and voila, we now import these wines. You will be stunned by the quality, and the prices have dropped precipitously from what they were before we took over the pricing!
The 2003 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico ($17.99) is a stunner. While the vintage is definitely a warm one, RdM’s altitude accentuated the positives, and they made a really dynamite wine. Soft, open and round in the mouth, the wine’s luscious fruit is readily apparent yet is layered with spice, rosemary and violet. A luxurious softness on the palate follows onto the finish, which lingers and begs for food. I'm dreaming of Arista, the fantastic pork loin roast you see all over Tuscany gently flavored with rosemary, a perfect match. We also have half bottles for $10.99, a great mid week experience.
As good as the “normale” Chianti is, prepare yourself for these! The 1999 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Riserva “San Marcellino” 1.5L ($69.99) is perfection for Chianti. This wine is made from 100% sangiovese and is a classic. Sangiovese, when it is right, has unending length, and this wine is really right. Wild cherry-, rosemary- and sauvage-filled intrigue rolls across your palate while minerals crystallize and deposit their structure on your tongue. OHHHHHhhhh my god this is good! However limited. The 2001 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Riserva “San Marcellino” 1.5L ($59.99) is everything the 1999 is but one size up! Power, structure, depth, a very similar styled vintage displaying all the best points of sangiovese, it is dynamite and will be long lived. Members of our Signature Red Wine Club will be receiving the 750ml bottle in their monthly packs before long!
The 2001 Rocca di Montegrossi “Geremia” ($27.99), a 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot is is a spicy, intrigue-filled red that just radiates flavor. This Bordeaux blend will only get better as these vineyards age. If you ever get a chance to drink the 1998 Rocca di Montegrossi Vin Santo 375ml ($74.99), you’ve died and can go to heaven, The 1997 got 97 points in Parker. The ’98 is better.
—Greg St. Clair
As of this writing (end of May) we have had three weeks of summer and no spring. The vines are confused, the animals are confused, and I am more confused than usual. We are still three weeks behind normal grape development, and unless we begin receiving some acceptable warm weather (which would include the evenings), we are witnessing the potential for one of the latest vintages ever.
So, 35 years ago, when I was at the Ernie’s Wine Warehouse of the Ernie’s Wine & Liquor Corporation operations, a customer would regularly show up at either the Redwood City or the South San Francisco warehouse to buy wine with his diaper-clad son in hand. Through the years, his son would always be at his side (not always in diapers) during buying trips. About 11 years ago, his son showed up at K&L to buy some wine, and I asked him for his ID. He was 21 that day and had waited “all his life” for this opportunity to buy his father a very special bottle of wine from me. I was honored! His father was Jim Westby, and his son was Gary, who is now our Champagne buyer and one of the foremost Champagne experts in this country… yes, in this country! He has discovered absolutely wonderful Champagnes on his buying trips from some extremely small winemakers (many producing for just two- and three-star Michelin restaurants). The Ariston Brut Carte Blanche ($28.99), a champagne house Gary discovered in 2001, is one of our best values. A blend of 40 % chardonnay, and 30% pinot noir and meunier each, aged three years on lees, this is a finely etched bubbly showing fine yeasty, nutty, doughy, rich aromas and palate impressions, and a long, refreshing finish. Buy this in quantity, according to Vanilla. Jim Westby: You did a superb job of raising and educating your son… This is our house sparkler forever.
Of all red wines, my least favorite is domestic Merlot because of its general angular, simple presentation. Once in awhile a new release will come along that will astound me with its atypical richness, complexity and depth of character, and this is the case with Robert Pellegrini’s (owner of Olivet Lane Vineyards) 2003 Cloverdale Ranch Alexander Valley Merlot ($19.99). This bottling is deeply colored and offers a lovely nose of red fruits and truffles, underscored by toasty oak tones. The palate shows near-term drinking with its soft tannins yet excellent structure and broadness of fruit that continues into its long silky finish. Eight percent cabernet adds depth and dimension. This is one of our house reds for July according to Anderson.
The vineyard/winery source for the 2003 Purisima Canyon Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.99) has been kept under strict lock and key from me, but regardless; this is a wonderful gem. Deep ruby in color, the nose explodes with cassis and blackberry fruit with just a touch of cedary oak that follows through on the palate. Complex, layered, yet focused with round, fine tannins, drink this now and for the next five to ten years. Anderson has told me this will be our July house red for the cellar.
Recently a single vineyard Zin from the Howell Mountain appellation was bottled for us, and it will knock your socks off. The 2003 Kirkham Peak Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($14.99) is deep ruby/garnet in color, exploding with white pepper to plum aromatics. This has a deep, concentrated, fleshy, broad set of varietal flavors with a long, warm, fuzzy finish. Anderson has told me that this will be our Zin for the month or more.
If you have any questions about these selections, you can email us at jimbarr@klwines.com. Enjoy this month’s wines!
—Jim, Anderson, Eby and Vanilla
The rebirth of the Château de Puligny Montrachet since my visit there in 2002 is astounding. Since Etienne de Montille took over, the yields are down, farming is organic or biodynamic and attention to detail shows from top to bottom. The result has been extremely fine wines, all estate grown.
A particularly good bargain is the 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Bourgogne Blanc, Clos du Château ($24.99). Made from 100% estate-grown fruit from the walled vineyard around the Château, this is a Puligny Montrachet in all but name, with bright fruit and lovely focus. The 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Monthelie Blanc ($29.99) has lovely mid-palate balance, with bright creamy notes and good weight. The pretty floral notes on the nose add to its charm. The 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet St. Aubin 1er Cru, “En Remilly” ($39.99) is a rich wine with elegant minerality and a lemon-cream note. The finish is long, persistent and balanced. The 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Puligny Montrachet ($50.99) shows very pretty pine and mineral notes, with fresh, bright fruit. The wine has a precise focus to it, and is lovely, fine and lingering on the finish. There are also small quantities of the 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Meursault 1er Cru, “Poruzots” ($53.99), the 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Meursault 1er Cru, “Perrieres” ($68.99) and the 2004 Château de Puligny Montrachet Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, “Folatieres” ($75.99), as well as tiny quantities of their spectacular Grands Crus, Chevalier, Bâtard and Montrachet (please inquire). Á Santé. —Keith Wollenberg
2004 Burgans Albarino ($9.99) Albarino is the most famous wine from the Rias Baixas. Many people liken this varietal to viognier, but I find it has a more delicate quality. Full of fruit and quite refreshing, the Burgans will be great drinking throughout the summer.
2004 Gramona Gessami ($11.99) 90 points Robert Parker: “A terrific buy, … is an intriguing blend of 60% muscat de alexandria, 30% sauvignon blanc, and 10% muscat de Fontignac that comes across like Spain’s version of a white Hermitage, although it is lighter bodied. Exotic waxy notes intermixed with notions of rose water, acacia flowers, and minerals jump from the glass of this medium-bodied white. It possesses a fruity, dry, intense, pure, spicy personality.”
2004 Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Roble, La Mancha ($9.99) Made from 100% cencibel, the local name for tempranillo, this spent some time in large clay amphoras known as tinajas and was aged for 5 months in a mix of French and American oak. Full and fleshy, this red from La Mancha has plenty of ripe black cherry fruit and a long finish. Perfect with your favorite grilled steak!
2001 Quinta de Roriz Reserva, Portugal ($16.99) 91 points Wine Spectator: “Full-bodied, deep-colored and rich with lip-smacking flavors of dark plum, blackberry jam, cocoa and a hint of French roast as well. Tannins build on the finish, but with an appealing silkiness and dark chocolate notes that go on and on...”
2003 Bodegas Tikalo Kios, La Mancha ($16.99) 90 points Robert Parker: “...an exceptional bargain. Attractive blackberry and blueberry aromas are followed by elegant, medium to full-bodied flavors. Tremendous density, purity, and ripeness cascade over the palate in this seamless beauty. It should drink well for 1-3 years. Buen
Provecho! —Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com
This month I have a stunning group of value priced wines perfect for summer chilling and grilling. The 2005 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($9.99) has a lifted nose of lime, snap pea, light passion fruit, and a powdery talc note. Clean and snappy with a mineral note and a round mid-palate supported by fine acidity leading to a long racy finish, this is Chardonnay without the oak!
The 2005 Alpha Domas Unoaked Chardonnay Hawkes Bay New Zealand ($10.99) offers a refreshing version of this omnipresent varietal, which has a bouquet of light peach, pear, apple and melon notes. On the palate there is some minerality and pure clean fruit with lemon zest accents, good acidity and fine length.
The Redheads Studio is an old bar and restaurant converted to a “playground” for a group of very talented winemakers. The 2004 Redheads Studio “Yard Dog” Southeast Australia ($10.99) has soft supple tannins with smoky dark plum, spicy red current, cherry, sweet red licorice and notes of milk chocolate. The palate shows fine balance with good acidity purity of fruit and a long finish.
Buitenverwachting in Africans translates to “beyond expectation,” and so does this wine from one of the coolest areas in South Africa. The 2005 Buitenverwachting “Beyond” Sauvignon Blanc Constantia South Africa ($10.99) is vibrant and zesty with a nose of wet stone, mineral, light passion fruit and citrus blossom. On the palate there is good purity with great acidity and length. Pair this with grilled shrimp and a spicy chili-lime sauce. Cheer —Jimmy C
Jim was a cowboy, rough and tough. He liked to say that he preferred his coffee black and his women blue. The wine he drank was red, and not that fruity stuff, like Beaujolais. He was a Syrah man, a Zin man, a Cabernet man. A real man.
Jim roped steer and steered ropes. Jim drove cattle, drove them through valleys, across streams. Jim drove those cattle, drove them crazy. Jim was deaf, and when his incoherent mumblings reached the ears of the beasts they would bleat mournfully as if asking him to stop. But their cries fell on, well, on deaf ears. The deaf ears of a real man.
Cowboy Jim was hard at work one sunny day, driving the cattle crazy on his way to deliver them to a dude named Hoss down at the Ponderosa. Jim had met Hoss on previous cattle runs. Hoss was a big man with a barrel chest, and he was slightly dense. Hoss was different, for sure. he was fond of show tunes and interior design. He dressed impeccably, and his diction was flawless. But he was a cowboy, a real man, so Jim could forgive Hoss his quirks.
Another thing about Hoss, something that Jim liked a lot: Hoss loved his wine. In the evenings the two cowboys would pull some corks and shoot the bull. Their conversation was easy and relaxed. They were just two manly cowboys drinking hearty red wine. Jim played the accordion and soon learned a number of Ethel Merman tunes so Hoss could sing along.
Hoss and Jim became a team, and traveled together across the cinematic countryside. They had everything they needed: A good horse, a blackened coffee pot, wine... and orchestral backround music. It was the good life.
But there were whispers from the other cowboys. Whispers that Jim and Hoss were... well, a different breed of cowboy. There were horse whispers too, but that’s another film entirely.
Hoss and Jim did not care. They were happy roping, happy riding. Happy singing songs from The Music Man by the campfire. They were a team.
After their workout (they had taken up the sport of Rassling) Hoss opened a bottle of 1995 Palmer ($139.99), and a ’96 Palmer ($129.99) as well. To compare and contrast, Hoss explained, and to pair with duck confit. A new world opened up to Jim. These Palmer wines were vibrant and exciting. Hoss explained that Palmer blended the characteristics of every commune: hearty (and manly) like Médoc, soft and supple like Pomerol and St-Emilion, sturdy and straightforward like St-Estèphe. And with the Fragrance of Margaux. Jim found that the ’95 was fleshy and soft, and brimming with a sweet cherry jaminess. The ’96 was firmer, denser. Manlier, yes, than the ’95. One to drink and one to save.
But as Hoss explained the wines, how Palmer was made from nearly half merlot, Jim grew agitated and fled. He would no longer partner up with Hoss. Jim and Hoss were finished.
Now a lonesome cowpoke, Jim worked alone. And he denied the truth about himself each and every solitary day.
“I ain’t no Merlot drinker…” —Joe Zugelder
I’m happy to present some delightful barbeque style reds. First off, the 2004 Fess Parker Frontier Red ($7.99) is comprised mostly of syrah, but boasts ten other Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. This blueberry and coco duo braids together oodles of juicy spice on the back palate. Dare I say, this wine, (weather permitting) inspires diving board canon balls, jack knives, and swan dives in between each sip. It’s hard to believe we are selling this wine for so little! Snatch up this tender, seductive, and oh-so-nurturing little number that sings like Billy Holiday and kicks it up with a feather-weight punch of frivolous fruit.
From a very solid and steady producer, the 2004 Bogle Russian River Pinot Noir ($11.99) is an absolute steal! Wafts of herbal notes and roasted cherries excite the palate. This well-balanced wine slithers its way down, while recalling hints of tobacco and leather on the finish. This little guy is a pleaser; wherever you might bring him, he’s sure to dazzle and adapt to all kinds of summer fare.
The 2004 Brown Napa Valley Zinfandel ($32.99) is for folks who like Zinfandels that can rival the flash of a neon light. It’s flush with a sugary nose, but not as weighty as you might first suspect. It boasts a jolt of Fourth of July fruit, however the stewed and jammy essence is well integrated with acid, smoke and spice to give the over-all impression of a well-constructed wine. Enjoy with mango chipolte ribs, or braised duck in a spicy pomegranate sauce.
The 2004 Sobon Amador, Rocky Top, Zinfandel ($12.99) is another cheery and efficient wine to enjoy over a fierce game of lawn darts (at your own risk) or perhaps, an old favorite of mine, slip and slide, horse-shoes, or when all else fails, Twister. With a little Rocky Top spreading heat and happiness throughout your veins, you’re sure to make a new, ahem, friend. —Keelyn Healy
This month it’s all about the Complete Package. These wines are impressive and unique on every front, including labels. That’s right folks, I’m review wines with cool labels here! No matter how irrelevant they are regarding quality, sometimes you just want to make a statement, not only with what’s inside but what’s on the outside, too. Never fear though, the great liquid that’s vesseled inside these expressive bottles is terrific too.
2004 Peirano “The Other Wine” Red Blend ($11.99) Lodi has arrived!! Forget what you may believe about this wine region, because you’ll be blown away by the many tremendous, inexpensive reds coming from here. I was immediately struck by the rich core of fruit and intensity from this syrah/petite syrah/cabernet blend. You might also be struck by the, ahem, provocative label on the front. I don’t know how in the world they got past the TTB, but Peirano produced a knockout, both inside and outside the bottle!
2002 Aia (Miner Family Vineyards) Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon ($21.99) The 2001 was one of our best selling Cabernets in any category, with its dark, bold, red label splashing “AIA” in contrasted white on the front. A standout in all senses of the word, this wine will take center stage and demand respect in any situation. Last night I poured this blind to a group of highly tuned tasters, and everyone nailed it… except for the price. A $60+ Cab from Napa was the overall guess! 2nd wine for Miner. In my opinion, a truly superlative Cabernet effort.
Speaking of best sellers, how about showing up to a dinner with 2004 Peter Cellars Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($29.99)? Does it have a pink border, a comic book font, and a big paw on the capsule? No doubt! The wine, just as its playful theme suggests, remains elusive, mysterious, but oh-so-enjoyable no matter how many sips you take. On the nose, a syrah-like gamey element ushers in the telltale (excuse the pun) aromas of crushed cherries and truffles of pinot-land. The bold, rich, ripeness belies the insistent backbone of acidity that makes this one of the better all-around food-focused Pinot Noirs under thirties dollars in the store. Thank you, Michael Jordan, for finding this diamond of a wine! Enjoy. —Martin Reyes
If you have stopped by the either of our stores in the last few years you will recognize this as one of our staff favorites, and the 2004 Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint Veran ($14.99) is once again at the top of our list. Saint Veran, if you are unfamiliar, is an appellation that is literally a stone’s throw away from Pouilly Fuissé and several of the more esteemed Macon villages. The soils have both clay and chalk, and you can see them both of these components expressed in the fantastic 2004 vintage. The long cool and wet summer finally broke in August allowing for the grapes to ripen. The grapes were not super ripe like the 2003 vintage so they speak more of the terroir, the clay rich soils giving the wine body and richness while the chalky soils give the wine cut and minerality. This wine once again speaks to wine lovers, both old world and new world. The nose is bright and citrusy with floral and yellow fruit tones. The palate has ripe almost tropical fruit tones with just a hint of nuttiness and a kiss of vanilla spice. This wine is a summer multi-tasker: poolside sipper, aperitif, or lighter BBQ quencher, not to mention its utility at the dinner table. If you haven’t given this one a try yet, now is the time. Or if it is a favorite of yours, stock up. This jewel will drink nicely over the next couple of years.
—Kirk Walker