June 11th, 2006, Bouilland, Burgundy, France

Overall:

On June 11th, I was fortunate enough to be invited to a wonderful tasting that the wine broker Becky Wasserman-Hone puts on each year, in her home. It takes place in a little village called Bouilland, which is up in the Haute Cote, just beyond Savigny les Beaune. Surrounded by trees, with towering cliffs overhead, it is a beautiful spot, particularly in the long days of June. The weather was warm, but less sweltering than in 2005. and the vignerons did not mind, since it was the first warm weather they had had, and near-perfect for the flowering of the grapes, which is a great start for the 2006 vintage.

Various vignerons in Burgundy bring several bottles of one of their wines from a decade earlier, and everyone gets together for a grand tasting of all of the wines. It is a delightful chance to taste so many wines form the vintage at once, see Clive Coates once again, and enjoy Becky Wasserman-Hone and Russell Hone’s hospitality. At the conclusion of the tasting, Russell cooks up a huge batch of French lentils, with sausage and meats from the local charcuterie in it, and a big green salad.

I want to send my heartfelt thanks to Becky, Russell and Peter for their work, their heroic efforts in organizing and running this event, and for pulling together such a delightful day in Burgundy. And thanks also for providing the opportunity to see so many vigneron friends and restrauteurs at one time.

The crush of people can make it hard to get to everything, and there is not time enough to write detailed notes. But it is an unparalleled chance to taste so many wines of the vintage at one go and get a sense of where the wines from various villages are today. As always, please keep in mind that any Burgundy tasting is only a single snapshot. On another day, with different barometric conditions or a different moon phase, the wines may present very differently. I bravely (or foolishly) attempted to taste through all 27 whites, 27 Cote de Beaune reds and 51 Cote de Nuits Reds. Some palate fatigue may be reflected in my notes, of course.

I take notes more as a memory enhancer than as comprehensive notes at this kind of tasting, since there is too little time and too much wine to make it possible to write longer and more coherent notes. So you have my apologies if they seem either too brief or too cryptic. I have no scoring system, either ordinal or cardinal, so you will not find scores. But, if there was something particularly noteworthy about the quality of a particular wine, I tried to reflect it in my notes. If you have questions about individual wines, I can try to expand on the notes, if my memory allows me.

Before I give you these necessarily abbreviated tasting notes on the individual wines, I’ll give you my general impressions from the tasting. In some cases, there are no notes on a wine, primarily because the bottle was not available as I moved through the press of folks to try to get to everything, or because it was a flawed bottle, waiting to be replaced with a better one. The tasting is large enough that the vignerons bring 4 bottles of each wine to the tasting, so a change of bottles does happen. And the event is too busy and too chaotic to guarantee that I get to taste and write notes on every wine. If I missed one, I may not have been able to get back to it. But I am including all wines at the tasting, just for completeness. Some wines were poured from magnum, and I have noted this in my individual tasting notes, since it obviously affects the aging process.

About the Whites:

The whites were showing quite well. Although a few of them were showing some advanced notes or bits of oxidation, in most cases the bracing acidity of the vintage had stood them in very good stead. I did not see a raft of prematurely aged whites, as some comments on the internet might lead you to believe. I did talk to some vintners who are convinced that one key to longevity is higher quality corks. And I heard from a reliable source that the Portuguese started irrigating their oaks about this time. With more moisture, you can have as few as 3-4 growth rings in a cork, which means that the density is low, due to the rapid growth.

Many of the best corks seem to be coming from Spain, particularly Catalonia. While Portuguese corks may have as few as 3-4 years of growth in a cork, the dry-farmed Spanish corks will have 10-12 and the Catalonian corks 12-15 growth rings in a single cork. The density of the cork is particularly important, more than one wine-grower explained to me.

About the Reds:

The Cote de Beaune wines from Beaune and Savigny were just a bit strict, without the lushness of fruit to offset the acidity of the vintage. Wines from Pommard were mixed but better, and those from Corton were much better, in general.

In the Cote de Nuits, although Nuits St. Georges showed generally well (but with some unevenness), the vintage was particularly successful from Vosne Romanée north, with the lush fruit needed to support the structure and acidity of the vintage. In general, these wines are still basically babies, except for some of the village wines. Although they are showing well, one gets the sense that another year or three will only work to assist them in their development.

The Tasting Notes:

White Wines:

Cote de Beaune, La Grande Chatelaine, Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot
Showing some oxidation, but good acidity and still sound

Montagny, 1er Cru, Domaine Stephane Adame
Bright, fresh, very nice

Pernand Vergelesses, Domaine Jacques Germain (Chateau de Chorey)
Mineral-driven, but not a lot of drive

Auxey Duresses, Comte Armand
Creamy middle, a bit advanced on the palate

St. Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de la Chatenière, Hubert Lamy
Creamy mouthfeel. OK

Meursault, AC, Comte Lafon
Mature, with good acidity. Ready to go

Meursault Tessons, Clos de Mon Plaisir, Domaine Roulot (from magnum)
Very nice, with really lovely citrus notes and white flowers. Lots of charm, fresh.

Nuits St.. Georges 1er Cru, Clos de l’Arlot, Domaine de l’Arlot
Structured and rich, with an interesting spice. Quite good!

Meursault 1er Cru, Poruzots, Domaine Francois Jobard
Bright and rich, but still a bit closed and slightly reductive. Solid.

Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine Comtes Lafon
Very lovely. Bright, rich, very alive. Nice!

Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine Francois Mikulski
Lighter than the Lafon, very lively, bright and elegant.

Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Maison Morey-Blanc
Reduced and impossible to read. Solid core.

Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres, Domaine Jobard
Lovely, with pronounced minerality, both rich and bright. Good

Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Domaine Roulot (magnum)
Just a bit reduced. Long, lovely, very rich. Lots of life. Nice flavor.

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru, Caillerets, Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard
This seems tired. Also showing a touch of volatility. Still alive, finish is good, but this is not showing well.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres, Jadot
Very rich palate, nice minerality. Good weight and life.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Truffieres, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Much more advanced than the Jadot. Ok, but not fresh.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets, Domaine de Montille
Lovely, rich, long, complete. WOW! This is exactly what it should be.

Corton, Grand Cru, Domaine Chandon de Brialles (magnum)
Richer than the Martray. Long, complete. Much more open at present than the Charlemagne. Very good.

Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Domaine Bonneau de Martray
Lots of minerality. Just showing a touch of that Corton honeyed note. Still very young at present.

Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Vincent Girardin
Creamy and mature. Much more ready than the Martray. I’d drink up if it were in my cellar. Good finishing acidity.

Montrachet, Grand Cru, Marquis de Laguiche (Drouhin)
Très élégante. Long. Spicy. Very good, very long, very complete wine. Let’s you see why Montrachet is so pricey, and worth it. YES !

Red Wines:

Cote de Beaune:

Savigny les Beaune, Maison Champy
Mature, lovely, with nice fruit. Not a dense wine, but good.

Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Dominode, Domaine Pavelot
Structured, big, young, quite tight. More extract and color. A bit edgy.

Beaune 1er Cru, Grèves, Domaine Michel Lafarge
Big, tight, long, spicy.

Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras, Chateau de Chorey (Jacques Germain)
Showing older notes, but still tight and a bit severe.

Beaune 1er Cru Teurons, Chateau de Chorey (Jacques Germain)
Bright, alive, more youthful, but showing very high acidity, without the weight to support it.

Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets, Domaine Francois Mikulski
Mature flavors, but the acidity is still high, and a bit prominent. This wine is still tight, and may show more with additional development.

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru, Morgeot, Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard
So-so. Alive, but not showing much density.

Volnay 1er Cru, Marquis d’Angerville
Not big but lovely. Long finish, good, almost minty flavors on the palate.

Volnay 1er Cru Carelles, Maison Camille Giroud
Big, structured style. Not a lot of fruit. Very nice, in a masculine style.

Volnay 1er Cru les Pitures, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
OK, undistinguished

Volnay 1er Cru Santenots, Domaine Chateau Rossignol-Jeanniard
Masculine, rich, good size, good length.

Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Domaine de Montille
Big, focused, very masculine. Tight. Good. Shows quite a lot of tannins at the finish. Needs time.

Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Chien, Domaine Lafarge
Big, spicy style. Focused, with very good length.

Volnay 1er Cru, Santenots du Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon (magnum)
Very good, with lots of life. This has matured to a fine, very elegant style of Volnay.

Pommard 1er Cru Pézerolles, Domaine Billard-Gonnet
Minty, meaty, and oddly herbal with animal notes.

Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Epenots, Domaine de Courcel
Very tight and showing some vegetal notes. Is it just in a backwards state?

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine du Comte Armand
Very good, with an attractive nose. Rich fruit, a hint of mint and sous bois, and lots of complexity.

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux, Maison Camille Giroud
Much more rustic, earthier, little evident fruit. Solid Pommard, with meaty notes. Closed, but very good length.

Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens, Domaine de Montille
More structured than the Armand Epeneaux, with some chocolate notes. Tasty wine, with lots of rich fruit and a long finish. Good.

Corton, Grand Cru, Maison Champy
Supple, long and a bit meaty, with a bit of sweetness on the palate. OK

Corton, Clos des Corton, Faiveley
Interesting nose, but still quite closed on the palate. Shows some sauvage notes.

Corton Grand cru, Les Maréchaudes, Domaine Chandon de Brialles (Magnum)
Framboise notes on the nose, very pretty wine. Good flesh on the palate. Very nice, rather approachable style.

Cotes de Nuits:

Nuits St. Georges, Au Bas de Combes, Domaine Jean Tardy
Ok flavors, but a bit light. Shows the young vines here.

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Champs Perdrix, Domaine Alain Michelot
Prominent minerality. Bright, mineral-driven finish. Very focused. Quite Good

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l’Arlot, Domaine de l’Arlot
Very good, with meaty notes. Long, spicy, rich mid-palate but quite substantial tannins at the finish.

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Chaboeufs, Domaine J-J Confuron
High acid on the palate, with prominent minty notes. Needs more time and food to accompany it.

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Bertagna
Oaky but with enough fruit to support this wood level. Tannins are just a bit dry at the finish.

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers, Domaine Robert Chevillon
Structured, with lots of minerality. Tannins seem just a touch dry, but the wine has good character.

Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les St. Georges, Domaine Robert Chevillon
Bigger than the Pruliers. Also more tannic, more structured. But there is also an added density here that supports it.

Vosne Romanée, Domaine Michel Gros
Spicy, with interesting Sous bois notes. Note a lot of weight, but nice flavors

Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Brulées
Rich and surprisingly soft for this terroir, which is usually a bit harder. Good Fruit. Nice.

Vosne Romanée 1er Cru, Malconsorts, Domaine Cathiard (magnum)
Masculine, rich, long. Excellent finish. Lovely character, with some NSG minerality and Vosne weight

Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Reas Monopole, Domaine Michel Gros
Very fine character, more minerality than the Malconsorts, but not as focused. Nice character.

Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot
Structured, masculine, and quite young. Very good, though.

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Maupertuis, Domaine Jean Tardy
Less weighty than the Michel Gros Vougeot, and also more transparent and lighter on its feet. Shows well, but it is not as big a wine as I expected

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Maupertuis, Domaine Michel Gros
Meaty and structured, big wine. More maturity towards the finish. Very nice.

Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot
Masculine, rich, very long finish.

Grands Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée Conti
More focused, more tannic, more backwards than the Grivot. Very Good.

Grands Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur
More elegant in style. Fine, nicely structured. Good

Richebourg, Grand Cru, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur
Much more backward, with lots of structure. Almost brooding in temperament. Very young. Lots of potential.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Beaux Bruns, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
Structured and young, but very good wine

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, Domaine George Mugneret
Quite mature flavors. Ready to go now!

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Domaine J-F Mugnier, Chateau de Chambolle Musigny
Firm, very elegant style. Long finish. Still very young and rather undeveloped.

Musigny, Grand Cru, Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Elegant but very reserved. Is this just backwards, not showing today, or not quite as good as expected. I’ll have to come back to this later in the tasting. (When I did, it had been consumed by some folks who were raving about how good it was. SIGH)

Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussiere, Domaine Roumier
Rich, big, structured, with very nice flavors. Quite young, and in need of time.

Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Hubert Lignier
WOW* Rich, focused, young, but this has lots of drive, energy and structure.

Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Roumier
Very nice wine. A bit earthy in character. Long and complex. Needs time.

Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Very lovely, rich in character. Good nose. Shows lots of length. Definitely Grand Cru.

Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Domaine du Clos de Tart
Very nice plum notes. Long and tannic. Good!

Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
Lighter than the Clos des tart, but very good length. Long and complex.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac
This is very lovely, very rich with lots of length on the palate. Black fruit notes, licorice, sous bois, complex. Very good!

Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac
More masculine. Long, rich and very good!

Gevrey Chambertin en Champs, Vieilles Vignes, Denis Mortet
Great richness and very complete wine. rich mid-palate

Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Denis Bachelet
Animal notes. Good. Fine, elegant, very long.

Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Alain Burguet
Smoky, meaty, more tannic in character

Gevrey Chambertin Les Seurées, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine F. Magnien
Very good, with nice fruit, toasty oak and meaty notes.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux, Domaine Alain Burguet
More size, more depth and more toast than the Magnien. Good, but a bit oaky for my palate.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux, Domaine Denis Mortet
Toasty oak, but this has the material to easily handle it. Needs time Very good

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers, Domaine Bruno Clair
Big, focused, backwards. Lots of extraction. Needs time.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers, Domaine Serafin Père & Fils
Big, meaty, very Gevrey, with lots of high toast oak. Very attractive, if a bit marked by oak for my taste.

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques, Domaine Louis Jadot
Serious wine. Long, rich, concentrated, elegant and with nice minerality.

Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru, Frederic Esmonin
Good fruit, nice length. Concentration OK. Charming wine.

Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru, Très Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Denis Bachelet
Much more here than the Esmonin. Very good palate impression. A complete wine.

Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Taupenot Merme
More open wine. Solid enough, a bit gamey in character.

Ruchottes Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Mugneret
Lovely sweet fruit, very nice aromatics. Lots of structure here that needs time to resolve.

Griottes Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin
Pretty cherry notes. Very elegant style, restrained, with great length. Very fine.

Chambertin Clos de Beze, Grand Cru, Maison Camille Giroud
Very old style Burgundy. Tannic, structured and with lots of weight to stand up to the tannins.

Latricieres Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Simon Bize
Floral and charming, but no blockbuster for a Grand Cru

Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine J& J-Louis Trapet (magnum)
Backward and tannic but lots of lovely blueberry fruit notes. This really needs time but it most impressive!

Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau
The wine of the tasting for me!! Superb, complete, very, very young, but near perfect wine. WOW!

Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy buyer

Posted by Keith Wollenberg at 10:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Finalmente! Yes, finally, the 2001 Brunelli are arriving. This much-ballyhooed vintage is here for you to taste. We are doing in-store tastings on Saturday, August 12 for any wishing to sample! Tiny Poggiarellino was last year’s introductory success. Its forward drinkability and price had everyone jumping out of their shoes. The 2001 Poggiarellino Brunello di Montalcino ($29.99) shows that last year was no fluke, In fact, this wine has gone from fun to important. The 2001 lays a powerful, focused center right down the middle of your palate and is rich, fleshy with a chocolaty, ripe-cherry-flavor-filled body. The wine has considerable depth and a texture that makes me think of a Bistecca Fiorentina. This vintage shows far more complexity, layers of spice, distinct mineral components and a truly dramatic and long-lasting finish where the spice and minerals go on forever. Capable of aging 15-20 years easily yet balanced and rich enough to excite anyone today! 2,700 bottles made! The quality evolution at Pian dell’Orino has been dramatic. Mike P. and I tasted everything from their cellar through 2005, and we are supremely impressed by the quality of fruit character, the real terroir and subtle winemaking. The 2001 Pian dell’Orino Brunello di Montalcino ($39.99) is dense, muscular and dark like an Olympic swimmer returning from a month at the beach. Those muscles are long and sinewy, graceful, full of power yet the wine strides with an elegant balance, oozing confidence still with a reserve reminiscent of nobility. There is a chocolaty, cassis, plum-like flavor that fills the mid palate coiled around a powerful interior structure that gives the wine great length and allows these flavors to linger in the finish. Mixed in with the warm fruit-filled ripeness are hints of animal, fresh glove leather, stones and wild herbs that are subtly present yet add to the complex background and are more present in the finish. Long, powerful and decidedly delicious, this is a wine that will age 10-15 years easily although so well balanced you could drink it now. The 2001 Pian dell’Orino “Piandorino” ($17.99) a truly wonderful blend of 75% sangiovese, 15% merlot and 10% cabernet sauvignon aged half in barrique and half in large oak, is REALLY good! The 2004 Pian dell’Orino Rosso di Montalcino ($19.99) is some truly serious sangiovese. This is a vintage to be reckoned with; in a few years the 2004 vintage will be the thing! Some other fantastic wines just arriving are the 2001 Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino ($39.99), with its luscious ripe fruit and easy drinkability, as well as its neighbor the 2001 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino ($39.99), which is really good in this vintage and seriously focused. Another unheard of wine is the 2001 La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino “I Poggiarelli” ($44.95). Three Stars! Marco Cortonesi produces honest, elegant and deliciously drinking wines. His “I Poggiarelli” vineyard release has layers of complex dark wild cherry flavors that jump out of the wine. It highlights a real sauvage character: spice, saddle leather, earth all balanced in a supple, graceful wine. No blockbuster alcoholic monster, just a really complex, fun wine with elegance and charm, like Audrey Hepburn but with a tan, on the beach, and after a few cocktails. Only 291 cases produced. —Greg St. Clair

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 2:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Well, folks, it is the dog days of August, and we here at K&L have been looking for some of the best that Burgundy has to offer for your summer parties.
Let’s start with a real steal-deal that many of you have enjoyed before. The Plaisir des Princes ($6.99) is a wonderful 2005 Macon Chardonnay that has been declassified to simply Vin de Table. They cannot legally tell you the vintage or the grape on the label. But we know, and will tell you: This is crisp Macon with nice fruit and good length, and it sells for a song. What’s not to like? We have also found a talented young vigneron in Macon. Lionel Rhedon-Marin sells all his younger fruit and lesser vineyards to the negociants, but keeps his best, old-vine fruit to make his 2005 Macon Villages, Domaine des Nialles ($11.99), with lovely apple notes, richness and a crisp finish.
In St. Bris-le-Vineux, a tiny town in the Cote d’Auxerre, near Chablis in the north of Burgundy, we work with a small domaine run by a husband and wife. Anne and Arnaud Goisot are dedicated wine growers, making honest, affordable wines with a clear sense of place. The 2004 Goisot St. Bris ($10.99) shows crisp varietal sauvignon blanc character, gooseberries on the nose and a wonderful flinty finish, thanks to the chalky soils. The 2004 Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté ($10.99) is regularly an award winner. Once again they were chosen for the coveted tastevinage label, awarded after a large blind tasting. The wine shows the characteristic spice on the finish but is also very open and generous. Try it as an aperitif, with cassis for a kir, or any old time. Finally, the 2005 Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d’Auxerre Rosé, ($10.99) is made of 100% pinot noir. With a beautiful eye of the swan color and a strawberry nose, this is profound and complex, yet refreshing and charming.
Á Santé. —Keith Wollenberg

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 2:43 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

All Saturday tastings are from noon to 3 p.m. in San Francisco and
1 to 4 p.m. in Redwood City. Look for dinners and other events listed in the “local events” section of our website, www.klwines.com. Please note our new format beginning this month. In order to bring you a wider array of choices, the San Francisco and Redwood City stores will have their own unique tastings. Tasting prices TBA.
August 5: California Chardonnay in RWC. Martin will pour wines from top producers in Napa and Sonoma. A rare opportunity to sample some of California’s finest Chardonnays. International Pinot Noir in SF. The staff will pick their favorite Pinot Noir from the U.S., France, New Zealand and other countries.
August 12: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino in RWC. Greg will be pouring a selection of Brunellos from the spectacular 2001 vintage. Salute to Women Winemakers in SF. A tasting from top women winemaker’s such as Cathy Corison, Kristin Belair, Susana Balbao and others.
August 19: 2003 Bordeaux in RWC & SF. Clyde, Steve and Ralph pick one white, eight reds and one Sauternes for our monthly Bordeaux tasting highlighting the 2003 vintage.
August 26: Australia Shiraz in RWC. Jim will focus on the great red wines of Australia. Please join us for this first-class sojourn down under. Sparkling Wine in SF. Sparkling wines from around the world including Champagnes, Cava, domestic bubblies and tasty treats from Alsace, Loire and Burgundy.

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 2:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

As you may know, K&L has developed an informed and passionate staff with wine buyers for the separate categories. As the company and world of wine has grown this has become a necessary evolution to be at the top of our game and bring the customer the most interesting wines at the best value possible. The trips that we take around the world allow us to make relationships and deals for direct import and private labels to help realize that vision.

This past January, I spent two weeks in South Australia focusing on two of the major regions in this state, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Though there are plenty of other regions that offer great character and style and deserve more attention by the press, these regions at present represent the “face” of the majority of Australian wines in the market. Believe me, that’s not a bad thing. Both these areas are home to some of the great vineyards of the world offering incredibly old vine Shiraz (Syrah), Grenache and Mourvdre that produce profound wines from low yielding vines giving great concentration and intensity. Fine Cabernet can be found as well and the Rieslings from Clare Valley and Eden Valley (a sub-region of the Barossa Valley) are absolutely world class.

Both regions are unique in style and have their own microclimate within them, and of course the winemakers influence is key. The Barossa Valley typically shows more broad shouldered ripe black fruit and bittersweet chocolate notes with cooler spots in the south end of the valley near Williamstown and the sub-region of Eden Valley driven by the influence of altitude. You can taste the effect of this in some of the wines from Yalumba and Thorn Clarke that even with rich dark fruits will show a lighter feel on the palate and slightly lower alcohol levels. McLaren Vale will tend to show brighter fruit with cassis and blue rather than blackberry fruit and red fruits as well. The chocolate notes here lean to milk instead of dark. The cooler aspect to this region is driven by a maritime influence due to the Gulf of St. Vincent. There is a greater change in the day and night time temperature here and cooler in general. This gives the wines of McLaren Vale a bit more acidity that shows in the juicy, silky mid-palate of these wines.

After tasting over 350 wines, I welcomed the cooler vintages of 2004 and 2005. 2003 was a hot vintage that I believe was more consistent in McLaren Vale and a little less focused in Barossa. That being said, we always say…follow the producer, vintage tells you when to drink the wine. The 2004 vintage was a tad cooler than 2005 and the wines are compact, refined and show good definition and balance. 2005 was a very even season with the wines having great purity, varietal character, fine balancing acidity and expressive length. The white wines that are already coming on board have great mid-palate fruit and weight with superb supporting acid. All and all, this looks to be a spectacular vintage that will have wines in the lower priced tier way over delivering and in the upper range have the structure to reward cellaring and evolve into complex wines.

Jim Chanteloup
K&L Australian Wine Buyer

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 3:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

In my opinion, there are two great liquid ways to beat the heat of summer: beer and Champagne. Since I do not do a beer column (not that I wouldn’t want to!), I’ll stick to Champagne. For August, I have two great, underpriced Champagnes that are great on a hot summer evening. Forget air-conditioning; have a nice, cooling glass of bubbly!
At the top of the list is the fresh, zippy and delicate Launois “Cuvee Reserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs ($25.99). Like one of my other favorites, Champagne Krug, Launois gets a lot of its fruit from the Mesnil district of Champagne. A great blend of all Grand Cru chardonnay from Mesnil, Oger, Cramant and Avize. A nose of custard, pine nuts and wet stones. In the mouth, a wonderful cleanliness of character that melds with pear fruit, almonds, vanilla crème and lemon/lime nuances. Rich in style with 90% of the fruit from the 2000 vintage and 10% coming from 1998 reserve stock. I poured this for the staff last month, and even some of my more skeptical co-workers, who don’t really, shall we say, appreciate Champagne, loved this one!
Like an old friend, the Ariston Carte Blanche Brut ($22.99) never fails to please. A direct contrast to the Launois, the Ariston is true to its terrior in the small village of Brouillet. The steep, sunny slopes of this district yield riper fruit with a great richness. The final blend is 40% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 30% pinot meunier. The nose has elements of pistachios, brioche and red fruits. Like the Launois, the chardonnay in the mouth has lemon curd and custard flavors, while the pinot noir and the pinot meunier add red plum and currant fruit. A nice finish of toasted hazelnuts. Head out to that porch with some Champagne, crusty bread, cheese and fruit! Cheers and have a great month! —Scott Beckerley

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2005 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($8.99) Lifted aromas of lime blossom and grapefruit with a hint of herbs. On the palate the wine is refreshing with good acidity and fine length. This crowd pleaser is a must for any party or wedding this summer.
2005 Highfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($13.99) For those who prefer a richer style, the bouquet offers lovely notes of lime, passion fruit, gooseberry, red bell pepper and minerals. The wine has a wee bit of barrel fermentation and lees contact giving it a creamy texture on the palate framed by juicy acidity.
2001 Penfolds Winemakers Reserve Limited Release Shiraz South Australia ($9.99) Due to a error in the Penfolds warehouse, this wine was found and labeled as the Winemakers Reserve. The juice inside is a wine (no, not Grange!) you would normally have to pay quite a bit more for. Full of ripe mulberry, cedar, spice and earth aromas, on the palate notes of dusty red currant, cherry and mint come into play, with fine tannins, good acidity and very nice length.
2004 Hewitson “Miss Harry” GSM Barossa Valley South Australia ($17.99) Dean Hewitson makes one the great values in a Southern Rhone style Aussie red. A bit more structured than the 2003, the wine offers beautiful aromas of plum, dark berry, meats and pepper spice. On the palate there is seamless balance framed by a hint of mocha and a little mint in the long finish. —Jimmy C

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This month I suggest several of my favorite Rhone wines, a delicate sparkling wine, a luscious rosé and a full-throttle red. A wine for my every mood. And yours!
NV Clairette de Die Cave Carod ($12.99) This non-vintage sparkler from the northern Rhone is composed of 75% muscat petits grains and 25% clairette, and made using the methode champenoise. This is a sparkling wine with very fine bubbles, light in alcohol (8°), and still containing residual sugar. Clairette brings delicacy to the wine whereas muscat gives its typical sweetness. This zippy and refreshing sparkling wine is the PERFECT accompaniment to all spicy cuisines.
2005 Tavel Rosé Domaine de Segriés ($11.99) This is not your everyday quaffer of a rosé. The average vine age here is 30 years, and the resulting juice (specifically 50% grenache, 30% cinsault, 15% clairette and 5% syrah) is concentrated and deep. Yes, this is a vin de saignee, meaning it is bled off the grapes keeping just a hint of the red color. But bear in mind that no red wine is made in Tavel. Just rosé. And we’re just fine with that! Enjoy with hearty foods like pissaladiere.
2004 Lirac Alain Jaume “Clos de Sixte” ($16.99) The 2004 Clos de Sixte Lirac is composed of 50% grenache, 35% syrah and 15% mourvèdre. A gorgeously intense red garnet color sets off striking aromas of cassis and wild blackberries. And although full-bodied, with notes of licorice, espresso nib and truffle, the tannins are supple, making this a fantastic Rhone to enjoy tonight with say, gigot d’agneau or grilled sausages. —Mulan Chan

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This May I had the opportunity to spend time with Olivier Pithon, a rising young star making wine in the Roussillon. Olivier is now recognized in Europe as part of the new generation of winemaking phenoms. K&L is proud to offer a selection of Olivier’s wines, which beautifully showcase the beauty and terroir of one of the most underrated wine regions of France.
2003 Côtes du Roussillon Domaine Olivier Pithon “La Coulée” ($20.99) “La Coulée” is a great introduction to both the terrior of the region and to Olivier’s non-interventionist style. This grenache-based red (with some carignan and syrah for tannin and acidity) offers copious quantities of sweet red fruit with a spicy note of pepper and local wild herbs.
2004 Cotes du Roussillon Blanc Domaine Olivier Pithon “Cuvée Laïs” ($26.99) Laïs is the name of one of Olivier much cherished Jersey cows. Maybe it’s strange to name a wine after a cow, but, you see, both the wine and cow share something quite significant in common; they are both loved by Pithon! The blend here is maccabeu and white and gray grenache. A proportion of new oak is used in fermentation, but the wood influence is always discreet, allowing the very fresh flowery notes to speak.
2003 Côtes du Roussillon Domaine Olivier Pithon “Saturne” ($28.99) Produced from black grenache and carignan, planted on the rock on shale slopes almost 60 years ago. A touch of syrah enlivens this local base. Very special attention is given to these vines from which you can catch a glimpse of the Mediterranean, the foothills of the Pyrenees and Corbières.
2003 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Blanc Domaine Olivier Pithon “LA D18” ($39.99) For the domaine’s top white cuvee, Pithon borrowed the name of a local road, one that threads its way quite breathtakingly from Calce to Le Col de la Dona. The LA D18 is based on a selection of the best slopes of white and grey grenache and tastes quite like a white Châteauneuf.
—Mulan Chan

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One of my favorite beverages is sparkling wine, particularly Champagne and especially those coming from those small Champagne houses that our buyer, Gary Westby, continues to discover. One can occasionally discover non-Champagne sparklers from other French regions that will rival some of the better multi-vintage sparklers from Champagne. Such is the case with the Charles Baur Cremant d’Alcase ($14.99), a blend of pinot blanc (40%), auxerrois (40%) and chardonnay aged on yeast for two years. With a finely etched bead, this shows a rich, creamy texture with a mild nutty tone both on its fabulously aromatic bouquet and in its clean, bright flavors. As Jeff Vierra (our Alsatian wine buyer) has pointed out to customers: “Most people outside of the region don’t think about Alsace for sparkling wine.” Once you try this you will.
The 2005 Domaine de la Pépière Classique Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($10.99) has arrived and it is a very fine example of the exceptional quality of the ’05 vintage in France (as well as in the rest of Europe). “This gem has become a perennial hit with our customers,” Jeff Vierra, who also does our Loire Valley wine buying, was overheard saying recently. Produced from 40 year or older vines that are planted in granitic soils, the Muscadets from La Pépière are among the best in that region. To once again quote Jeff: “It is energetic, juicy, and full of life, a cool crisp slice of the Muscadet soil tempered with snappy fruit.” To quote, in unison, Eby and Vanilla, as they hiss and snarl at each other: “This will be our house white wine for the month.”
For the most part, I have never been a fan of Los Carneros fruit. I have always thought that most of the pinot noirs smelled and tasted like Beaujolais, which is generally not a bad thing if you enjoy a simple, one-dimensional, tutty-fruity wine. And the chardonnays have been generally simple to me. To have a syrah coming from that cool climate, fogged-in area that would show depth, character and incredible richness, would unravel the rules of universe to me. But, lo, the 2003 Kalinda Los Carneros “Reserve” Syrah ($17.99) is possessed. It actually possesses richness, depth, complexity, roundness and a wonderful degree of exacted white pepper, spicy to plumy varietal character and exactness that lingers into its well extended finish. This wine should be had with a “Fred’s Steak” from Shaub’s in the Stanford Shopping Center. Anderson wants this to be one our house reds for the month of August. Enjoy!
Finally, one of my favorite red wines in our inventory is the 1999 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir ($16.99), which is a monumental wine for those of you who enjoy aged pinot. One of the questions I always ask customers who wonder into the Old and Rare Wine section of our store is, “What is your experience with old and rare wine like this?” The vast majority of you have been raised on young, fleshy, bright wines, and the first encounter with a somewhat aged red wine makes many of you believe that it is a bad wine. Well, aged wine has a leathery, cedary, soft, rounded, complex, subtle character with similar developed aromas, and that is what it is…. so get use to it and learn to appreciate it. That is what this wine is about. This is incredibly well-made pinot (I wish that I could make wine like this) that has an aged quality to it. Anderson has told me that this will be our house red for however long it is around.
If you have any questions about these selections, you can email us at jimbarr@klwines.com. Enjoy this month’s wines!
—Jim, Anderson, Eby and Vanilla

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Lordy lordy. A spot check on the pricing of the 2005 top-tier Bordeaux wines had best be done sitting down. Ten thousand bucks for a case of wine? Wine that is not even in the bottle yet? As Ebert and Roper would say: two thumbs down. Way down. The few always ruin it for the many. There are scores of fabulous and reasonably priced ’05s to choose from. But the perception of blatant gouging across the Bordeaux board already has folks on the run to other vintages (if not other countries), and the damage is done. At $800 plus a bottle (from a property whose previous vintage sold for $200 dollars!) very few corks will be pulled. Welcome to Stock Market Wine. This is the wine equivalent of the disappearance of the middle class.
This will hit my department as well. The stocks and cellars of older vintages will go up. The vacuum effect may even extend to the rest of the premium French wine world, and has potentially global implications.
Sound like an Al Gore movie?
To high-price leaders, I say: Better hope the weather holds next year.
O.K., let’s get happy again. Please allow me to introduce Léoville-Poyferre, the most obscure of the Léovilles and but no less delicious. The quality here has never been better; the underachieving years are long passed, and the property now has the ability for great success in lesser vintages, not an easy trick.
Léoville-Poyferre tends to be solid and structured but with exotic plumage and somewhat finer tannins. Think of Léoville-Barton with a Cos d’Estournel chaser. We currently something for everyone:
1989 Léoville-Poyferre 1.5L ($289.00) This is a sturdy wine with sweet currant fruit notes and refined power. I believe that the wine is at its apex, but I’m not averse to drinking wines like this in the September of their life, when the fruit loses a bit of sweetness and the bouquet begins to show more dry roses and minerals. Lovely now.
1993 Léoville-Poyferre 1.5L ($89.99) The ’93 offers up the signature summer fruit flavors of blueberries and plums as well as the ubiquitous blackcurrants. There is a lovely balance to the components, and it drinks perfectly now. The wine does not shout, nor does it whisper.
1994 Léoville-Poyferre ($89.99) This little showboat has it all- ripeness, richness, toasty oak and good body. Oh, and one more thing- the balance to be a complete and complex wine now, more so with a few more vintages under its' belt. An absolute steal. An engaging and exotic wine.
1995 Léoville-Poyferre ($189.00) There is always a tortoise among the hares. This offering will require the patience of Job, but not the pocketbook of Steven Jobs. Trust me, this is some serious grape juice: deep, dense and powerful. With smoky notes and tobacco to complement the never ending layers of sweet black fruits, this is a brute with balance. This one needs to get tucked in for at least a half-decade slumber. Wake it up after 2012, or later. You’ll be glad you bought it.
So, you have two choices: By a single bottle of a certain 2005 first growth, or every one of these magnums and throw in a nice dinner for the same price. See how easy it is to choose?
—Joe Zugelder

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Summerer is a new grower in the marketplace and one that we are really digging on. The estate is located in Langenlois the heart of the Kamptal, a bowl like valley with vineyards surrounding the town on all sides. The Summerer’s Rupert and Elizabeth continue a tradition at this estate that dates back to 1679 yet this property is anything but traditional. All the wines are now being bottled with glass stoppers. That’s right, no more cork taint here my friends. These wines are energetic, snappy and ripe with modest alcohol (12.5%), fresh clean flavors and distinctive minerality. Austria is on the move. I firmly believe it to be one of the most dynamic regions in the wine world today with folks like the Summerers all over the country making great wines that go with food, are distinctive and honest with vision and a sense of place. We have two wines to prove this point for you to try this month.
2004 Summerer Grüner Veltliner Steinhaus ($15.99), from vines grown on Urgestein (primary rock), is a dazzling little number sure to make you smile, from its fresh cool nose to the zippy mineral mouth feel. This is a great match with heirloom tomato salad.
2004 Summerer Riesling Steinmassl ($22.99) is from a great site for Riesling, producing wines of real finesse, cut and minerality, always a little firm and lean when young with hints of citrus and white flowers, yet coupled with a very strong scent of stone. Enjoy this now for its vibrant youthful exuberance or drink in 4-8 years for a more mature experience. Enjoy! —Jeff Vierra

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We have just received some really hip wines guaranteed to create quite the stir at your next gathering. Whenever I have the need to serve some tasty wine I often reach for romorantin. This honeyed bundle of pleasure is all you need to put smiles on your friends’ and families’ faces and forever seal the fact that you are a certifiable wine geek. I say go for it my friends, embrace the distinctive, rejoice in the weird, be the only person on your block with cases of wine from this long-forgotten grape in your cellar. Romorantin is the name of the most noble ancient grape grown in Cour-Cheverny at the center of the Sologne viticulture region in the Loire Valley. These vines are thought to have been grown here since the time of Francois I (a long time ago), and the wines have historically been highly regarded by the Noble Folk that used to live in all those big châteaux. This appellation is tiny (46ha) compared to say the Cotes du Rhone (42,000ha), and the production that leaves the region is miniscule. We are lucky to have established a relationship with one of the top growers in the region, Philippe Tessier, and are pleased to offer you two new wines. Tessier has just converted the domaine to totally organic viticulture, too!
2004 Tessier Cour Cheverny “La Porte Doree” ($13.99) From very old vines, 60-85 years of age, all from the romorantin grape. The wine is fermented in three- to five-year old Burgundy barrels and undergoes partial malo-lactic fermentation, which lends a rich, almost viscous mouthfeel to an otherwise extremely mineral wine. You may put this wine in the cellar for many years of rewarding drinking. Now till 2020+.
Did I mention Mr. Tessier also makes red wine? The 2005 Tessier Cheverny Rouge ($12.99) is a luscious blend of gamay and pinot noir. This medium-bodied beauty is supple and elegant, a portrait of restraint and purity and just about one of the happiest wines we have in the store. Enjoy its cherry scented nose and spicy licorice-tinged palate and ample sweet fruit just above cellar temperature and over the next 5-8 years. Live in the Light! —Jeff Vierra

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2004 Kalinda Hattenheimer Riesling Dry ($9.99) Yup, that’s right, Kalinda Riesling from Germany. Why play in the box when you can play outside of the box, that’s our mentality here at the ’ol K&L. Im sure most of you are familiar with our Kalinda label by this time, but this is a first, and you should be a part of it. The village of Hattenheim is located in the heart of the Rheingau with notable vineyard sites such as The Steinberg, Mannberg, Hassel and The Pfaffenberg. Keeping with the Kalinda tradition, we can’t tell you exactly where this little beauty hails from, but it is something special. Hattenheim has a rich, deep history of wine production dating back to the mid 1100s and is known for wines that are perfumed, mineral driven, and that have a strong personality. This is a must have. I’m keeping at least three bottles in the fridge at all times for any occasion. Maybe I’m having people over or maybe it’s Tuesday; I’ll find a reason to crack one open.
Since I still have you outside of the box, get a load of this one: 2004 Schlossgut Diel Rosé de Diel ($18.99). The wines from Schlossgut Diel continue to excite me. This is 100% pinot noir from the Nahe, which is not only pleasing to the eyes (it’s one of the prettiest wines that we have) but on the palate as well. Fermented partially in stainless steel and partially in old neutral barriques, this has a texture and vibrancy that is a fantastic addition to the summertime heat. This screams for an Asian spiced pork loin straight of the grill and a healthy mixture of summer veggies on the side, or maybe just a few good friends sitting on the porch talking about the good ’ol times. I’ll let you decide! —Eric Story

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Now that the 2005 Bordeaux craze is probably slowing down a bit we can get back to basics: California Wines. The first growths of California (Caymus, Montelena, Silver Oak, Dominus, etc...) could almost be called bargains in comparison. My only hope is that the producers in California don’t get any ideas. The only wine I will mention this month is one I tasted a few days ago, the 2002 Mount Eden “Cuvee Saratoga” Santa Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon ($22.99). For the money, this wine can’t be beat! The wine is elegant, fresh and loaded with complex mineral flavors and aromas that are balanced by ripe cassis and currant fruit. This is a wine to enjoy with food and is a steal at this price! —Trey Beffa
Introducing Deerfield Ranch: After PJ Rex gave her husband a wine-making kit some 30 years ago, Robert Rex quickly began to unleash his talent and passion on the world. And what a wonderful treat it was to discover this underappreciated, biodynamic, handmade, small-lot producer, Deerfield Ranch Winery. The 2002 Deerfield Syrah, Ladi’s Vineyard, Sonoma County ($34.99) sent me soaring into another galaxy. After one sip, within seconds there was global peace, no acne, no off-putting in-laws and no bad meals. Make all your dreams come true. Drink this wine and be forever full of ravishing bliss! Enjoy responsibly. The 2001 Deerfield Super T-Rex ($27.99) is a Meritage style wine that pays homage to Italian Super Tuscans. It’s a blend of 73% sangiovese from Sonoma county, 14% cabernet franc from Napa, 8% cabernet sauvignon from Sonoma and 5% dolcetto from Sonoma, all aged in French and American oak for one year. It shows gorgeous and graceful fruit with layered complexity, friendly tannins and a solid back bone. —Keelyn Healy

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2004 Gramona Gessami ($11.99) 90 points Robert Parker: “A terrific buy... an intriguing blend of 60% muscat de alexandria, 30% sauvignon blanc and 10% muscat de fontignac that comes across like Spain’s version of a white Hermitage, although it is lighter-bodied. Exotic waxy notes intermixed with notions of rose water, acacia flowers, and minerals jump from the glass of this medium-bodied white. It possesses a fruity, dry, intense, pure, spicy personality.”
2005 Tres Ojos Rosado, Calatayud ($6.99) This rosé made from old-vine grenache is a fantastic wine for the dog days of summer. Packed with plenty of ripe berry fruit and spice, the Tres Ojos is very dry and substantial enough to go with grilled fish with a spicy rub!
2004 Yasa Garnacha, Calatayud ($7.99) This 100% old-vine grenache has loads of blackberry fruit and a long perppery finish. The wine is full on the palate and has plenty of acidity and backbone. I love this red with smoked pork shoulder or grilled chops!
2003 Bodegas Castano Solanera, Yecla ($11.99) 91 points Robert Parker: “... a beautiful blend of 75% Mourvedre and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by a smoky, scorched earth-scented nose displaying notions of black cherry jam, licorice, and truffles. Ripe and medium to full-bodied, with wonderful sweetness... it possesses purity, suppleness, and balance. It is another example of why Spain is beating virtually every other viticultural area in the world when it comes to high quality wines that sell for a song. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years.”
2001 Quinta de Roriz Reserva, Portugal ($16.99) 91 points Wine Spectator: “Full-bodied, deep-colored and rich with lip-smacking flavors of dark plum, blackberry jam, cocoa and a hint of French roast as well. Tannins build on the finish, but with an appealing silkiness and dark chocolate notes that go on and on.” Buen Provecho!
—Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com

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