The René Collard Cuvee Ultime Ultra Brut ($39.99) is the 52nd and last harvest from one of Champagne's true greats. Mr. Collard made his first Champagne in 1943, in the middle of the war. The Ultime is 100% 1995, although not labeled as a vintage. During that time Mr. Collard's methods have not changed; he has never used chemicals in the vineyard, never allowed the wines to undergo malolactic fermentation and never used stainless steel. The juice was fermented in a combination of one-third enamel vats and two-thirds large oval barrels. All of the vines are very, very old and a combination of 10% chardonnay and 90% meunier. Sadly Mr. Collard's health has put future availability into question. If you are a fan of Champagne and have not tasted his wine, please do not miss this opportunity. The Champagne is not for everyone. It is vinous and complex, stalwartly dry (there has been no dosage at all added) and doughy at the same time. I think it is one of the best in our stock, and to fans of Krug and Bollinger I would give extra encouragement to sample this wine. Our stock is dwindling.
On another subject, my email list needs some maintenance. Many of you have written me to get notification on rare Champagnes, news from the region and closeout announcements. If you have not heard from me in a while I might not have your current email address. Please send me your current information at garywestby@klwines.com. Please don’t hesitate to join if you have not already! A toast to you!
—Gary Westby

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Saturday September 9 is the date. Come and join co-owner James Sichel and K&L for a great dinner featuring the wines of Château d’Angludet. Wines from 1983, 1988, 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2003 will be poured. This dinner will be held at Spago Restaurant in Palo Alto. Reception at 6:30 and dinner at 7:15. Casual elegance is the dress code. $150 per person. Following is the menu:
2 passed appetizers-with Launois Brut Reserve
1st Course: Seared Sonoma duck breast with Chinese spices and summer peach glaze-with 1999 and 2001 Angludet
2nd Course: Duo of Colorado lamb with black olive sauce, shelling beans and gremolata-with 2000 Angludet-
3rd Course: Roasted New Zealand loin of Venison with sun choke puree and wild huckleberries -with 1988 and 1983 Angludet
4th Course: Roblechon and Brie with grilled black mission figs and toasted walnut bread-with 2003 and 2005 Angludet

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I would like to start with Ch. Léoville-Poyferre, St.-Julien, which was created from the division of the largest property (Lord Léovilles) in the Médoc at the time, early 1800s. You might know its more famous siblings: Léoville-Las-Cases and Léoville-Barton. They might be more famous but Léoville-Poyferre definitely has the quality that goes with its second growth title. 1993 Ch. Léoville-Poyferre, St-Julien 1.5L ($89.99) is one of the best steals we have in the store. The nose offers bright cherry as well as tobacco. There is certain dustiness to this wine, but what you remember is the elegance and length, and the acidity just carries this wine for ever. Speaking of Léovilles, let’s move to Léoville-Barton’s second wine: The 1998 Reserve de Léoville-Barton, St-Julien 1.5L ($64.99) is just perfect to pair with a nice fillet mignon, no sauce please. With no hard tannins, elegant red fruit, notes of pencil lead and still very youthful, it is waiting for you to grill that piece of beef with just salt and pepper. Voila! Perfect match. The 1996 Benjamin de Pontet, Pauillac ($21.99) is another fine example of a beautiful second wine (Pontet Canet’s). Opened for one hour, it reveals sweet berries and a nice mineral finish. This is a smart buy for consumption over the next five years.
If you still don’t know what to get from the outstanding 2003 vintage, may I suggest the 2003 Duhart-Milon, Pauillac ($36.99). This estate has stepped up to the plate and delivered. Sweet dark berries, smoke, oak, One of their best ever. Cellar for 5-20 years. —Alexandre Brisoux

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Finesse, elegance, subtlety, refinement. You hear that about cars, but never burger joints. We say that about clothing, but not about monster trucks. Lemonade can’t have class, but wine can. Wine achieves class when it manages to balance contrasts; strength with grace, purity with complexity, richness with focus, as found in the following:
Oregon wine country would not be what it is today without the influence of David Lett, owner and founder of Eyrie vineyard. Nicknamed Papa Pinot because of his trailblazing decision to plant pinot varietals in the mid 1960s, David’s wines are all superlative examples of refinement and elegance. The 2004 Eyrie Oregon Pinot Blanc ($15.99) shows freshness and purity, with stone fruit and a finely polished finish that reminds me why it’s good to taste wine for a living.
I want to remind you of the 2002 Mount Eden “Cuvee Saratoga” Santa Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon ($22.99). I know Shaun wrote it up last month, but I just wanted to tickle your procrastination muscle for a minute. From a super-fine, local producer who has old-world spirit running through its veins, this is sure to please the refined soul in all of us. Try it soon!
It’s not often that while tasting a new Napa Cab we nod vehemently and say, “Sixty dollars?? Wow, now that is a knockout bottle, and well worth every penny. Sold!” Yet that is indeed what the entire staff said when they tried the 2003 Meander Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($59.99). Wonderfully created by soon-to-not-be-obscure Amy Aiken, whose passion for winemaking is clear. Without its chemistry-set quest for fancy slabs of oak and points, this Cabernet is a rare, stunning breed. It shows just how powerful, graceful and complex the pure expression of fermented grape juice can be. Go ahead and splurge, you’ve spent more for lesser wine. Enjoy! —Martin Reyes

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Giovanni Blason and his consulting enologist Andrea Rossi have turned this 37-acre property into a juggernaut of affordable quality wines. Giovanni and his wife Valentina own this winery in Gradisca d’Inzonzo, 3.75 miles from the Slovenian border and about 20 miles north of Trieste. Isonzo is where Silvio Jermann, one of Italy’s greatest white winemakers, hails from. This is the fourth vintage that we’ve been importing wines from Blason, wines that are getting 1 and 2 glasses from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading wine critic, for their quality and the fact that they cost one half of the price of many others that don’t get the same quality reviews. Let’s not even begin to talk about Santa Margherita.
Mike Parres (who has not taken over the controls of the Redwood City Italian operations, as I have moved south to work on opening our new Hollywood location) and I visited Gradisca d’Isonzo last February. We were stunned to find out that all this time Blason has been winning awards, making wine that was absolutely delicious, always balanced and fresh. They did it without temperature controlled fermentation! All of the wines in the 2005 vintage benefited from temperature-controlled fermentation, the whites sur lie (that’s French… I’m sorry, you should learn the Italian sui leviti). It means on the lees with the dead yeast cells, which gives the possibility of more complexity.
Enough of a preamble, let’s get to the wines! The 2005 Blason Pinot Grigio ($8.99) is the best Pinot Grigio Giovanni and Andrea have made to this day. The vines are maturing, and the addition of the temperature-controlled fermentation has added a level of spice to the already wonderful fruit, with body, freshness, balance, and well... it’s just damned refreshing. Last vintage we sold our 200-case allotment in 10 weeks. This year we’ve ordered 400 cases, but with the addition of our new Hollywood location this wine won’t be around by Christmas. Buy now! Generally I write about the easier-to-sell wines before the more difficult-to-figure-out. This time, I have to write about the 2005 Blason Cabernet Franc ($8.99). This one is so good you won’t believe it! The flavor just bursts out of the glass, spice laden, black pepper, red fruits, vivacious, fresh and curvy all at the same time, and at an unbelievable price. Please try this wine if you haven’t or even if you have had Italian Cabernet Franc. This is really wonderful to drink.
Why the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio has become synonymous with white wine for Italy I don’t know. Maybe it sould have been Tocai Friulano instead. The 2005 Blason Tocai Friulano ($8.99) is rich, complex, spicy with hints of tarragon, body and balance. Just a really extraordinary balance of fruit, spice and drinkability. Perfect for your favorite fish dish, I like it with linguine and clams. In this vintage the 2005 Blason Sauvignon ($9.99) showed very well, complex, rich, spicy with wonderful Sauvignon character without going totally gooseberries. Fresh and lively, this shows incredible balance. The 2005 Blason Chardonnay ($9.99) is extremely fresh. Partial barrel fermentation gives it a slightly richer yet not woody character at all, still a delight to drink! —Greg St. Clair

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2001 Baricci Brunello di Montalcino “Montosoli” $34.99 This was in my top-ten Brunelli of all the 2001s I tried in February with Greg. I was very fortunate to try this wine next to the 1985 vintage, a hint for what this ’01 would someday become! Not that I would wait that long to drink this wine. Layers of spicy dark fruit, a little Montosoli dust and a touch of leather with great tannin stucture. Would give this at least three hours of decanting (if I were drinking this sooner than later), but be patient with this baby!
2001 Casisano Colombaia Brunello di Montalcino $29.99 I found this Brunello to be the most user friendly of the 2001s. Dark ripe fruit, cassis and strawberries with dark chocolate, and lots of oak and soft tannins on the finish. Still needs an hour or two to open up. Try it with your Mom’s pork roast recipe. Life is good!
2001 Ferrero Brunello di Montalcino $29.99 One of my favorite Brunelli for its spiceness! Lots of cinnamon and clove mingle with rich and ripe black cherries on this full-bodied with soft and easy tannins. This is a wine to drink now and over the next five years. Stock up on this one.
2001 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino $34.99 thick, lush yet dazzlingly fresh fruit character is accented with hints of earth, spice and mineral that is wrapped around a powerful foundation. While profoundly concentrated, the silky texture of this wine sends waves of smooth, unctuous texture across your palate. Powerful, complex, drinkable, age worthy, this luscious Brunello shows the great balance inherent in this 2001 vintage. It will age well for another decade plus. Salute! —Mike Parres

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Mike Trujillo, winemaker for Karl Lawrence, had full control of Sequoia Grove’s 2002 vintage. Mike’s skill and decision making has given Sequoia Grove a so-called rebirth. This vintage screams, “pay attention!”
I was fortunate to be invited to a blind trade tasting where Sequoia Grove’s 2002 and their Rutherford Reserve were up against the likes of Pride Mountain, Opus One, Rudd, Shafer, Groth, Caymus, BV Georges de Latour, Pine Ridge, Whitehall Lane and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Mike has been touring the country putting on these blind tastings for trade folks. And to his credit (and the wines’), Sequoia Grove has gained a new cache. The group of 50 tasters chose the 2002 Sequoia Grove Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($26.99) as their number three choice. Needless to say, the results surprised quite a lot of predisposed tasters. But what really did it was the overwhelming # 1 vote for the 2002 Sequoia Grove Rutherford Reserve (Inquire)! Mike mentioned that it had been the winner at more than 11 of his 18 nationwide tastings, and always in the top three! I’m happy to say that the group’s number one was my number one. Go Mike! You have made a delicious Cabernet. This is a wine that boosts a wealth of balanced fruit as well as hints of lavender and rich dark chocolate. It’s a powerful yet subtle wine that begs to be swirled and smelled, swirled and smelled again. Not to forget the ribbons of elegant tannin that finish off this experience.
—Keelyn Healy

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Thanks to Fritz Zweigelt’s 1922 historical creation we now have the varietal aptly known as zweigelt (zv eye-gelt). A crossing of two indigenous varietals, blaufrankish and st. laurent, it was created with the hopes of withstanding frost and disease, and be an earlier ripening grape. Known for all of these features, it is now the most widely planted red varietal in all of Austria. It has even reached parts of eastern Germany. Across the board the character of zweigelt is one of a dark, dense core, rounded structure and aromatics of bright, red cherry fruit. Most of the zweigelt vineyards are now just coming of age. Remember this is a new varietal; you only get to make changes once a year. With that in mind the aging potential is not fully clear. But, I feel with a little more time we will begin to see high-class Zweigelts being put through the test of time and fairing extremely well. There are even some experiments happening that include the blending of zweigelt and blaufrankish. Think of Bordeaux with cabernet and merlot, zweigelt being the merlot. So, with all of that said, here are some wines that will help get your feet wet in the zweigelt pool.
2004 Berger Blauer Zweigelt 1L ($13.99) Yes, a ONE LITER! An easy going, gulpable little bugger that is racy, lush and just down-right fun. By all means, do not consider this wine to be a weak interpretation of the varietal in any way!!!!
2003 Iby Zweigelt Classic ($11.99) This is the Austrian equivalent of a good spicy Cotes du Rhone. Lots of berry notes (you know, the aroma of a crushed summer strawberry that smacks you in the face), and mild tannins make it a fun summer wine when paired with foods from the grill. It is light enough for picnics, too!
2003 Paul Lehrner Claus ($16.99) A blend of 75% zweigelt and 15% blaufrankish, The Claus is a wine with a very subtle bit of tannin due to the addition of the blaufrankish, and a dark, sappy core of lush, juicy fruit that throws out hints of delicate herbs surrounded by a thin coat of smokiness, which will keep you sniffing deeper and deeper into the glass. A happy drinker! —Eric Story

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The Fairview estate in South Africa does an amazing job of creating wines with style, character and value. Made from a blend of syrah, grenache, cinsault and merlot, the 2006 Goats do Roam Rosé ($7.99) has vibrant aromatics of ripe strawberry and watermelon that follow on the palate with a round mouth feel, good acidity and length. The 2004 Bored Doe ($9.99) is a blend of 48% merlot, 28% cabernet sauvignon, 13% malbec and 11% petite verdot. Notes of dark plum, cherry and currant with a hint of licorice and smoke are finely balanced with a fine finish. The 2005 Goat Door Chardonnay ($10.99) sees partial barrel and malolactic fermentation. After six months in tank and neutral French oak, the wine is blended. On the nose there is subtle oak nuances with hazelnut and notes of pineapple, baked apple, citrus and spice. There is good balancing acidity with a long finish.
We were lucky to get Phil Christiansen once again to fashion a great Shiraz as he did in 2002. The 2004 Kirkham Peak Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia ($15.99) is classic McLaren Vale juice with cassis, blueberry, toffee, chocolate and spice. The oak influence is subtle with a combination of French and American oak of which 10% is new. On the palate, there is great purity to the fruit with good acidity and silky soft supple tannins. There is great balance and structure reflecting the fine 2004 vintage in Australia. —Jimmy C

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This month I have two very different wines. First up, a sparkling pink Bugey from Cerdon which, in my wine world is synonymous with “Look out, good times up ahead!” Next, a K&L staff favorite, Marselan from Domaine l’Attilon, is back in the house! Read on!
NV Cerdon de Bugey (methode ancestrale), Caveau de Mont St. July ($14.99) Spontaneous fermentation. An altogether preferable scenario to spontaneous combustion, and A LOT more fun to drink. This pink, semi dry bubbly was made by spontaneous fermentation, otherwise known as methode ancestrale. Grapes are picked by hand (not just any grapes, these are the local poulsard and gamay grown on mountainous slopes in the shadow of the Alps), and fermented in chilled vats just reaching 5 or 6 degrees alcohol. The young and light wine is then bottled, along with its active yeast and considerable unfermented sugars. Under pressure of the cork, the wine continues to ferment, gaining a few degrees of alcohol but retaining a nice amount of sweetness. And the bubbles, of course, another result of fermentation under pressure. This one is so delicious and fun to drink, with a distinctly, well, grapey aroma and a fruitiness that calls out for celebration and jubilation. This is also wonderful served with spicy Indian takeout or a bag of salt and vinegar potato chips!
2004 VdP des Bouches du Rhône Marselan Domaine l’Attilon (ORGANIC) ($8.99) Marselan, a cross between cabernet sauvignon and grenache, is a new grape variety. Domaine l’Attilon’s organic version of this new cepage is bursting with bright, crunchy black currant and cherry fruit balanced by violet floramatics and a vibrant acidity. Another terrific value from the south of France! —Mulan Chan

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My two picks for the month are like comparing apples and oranges. One is an old-world style while the other is a modern Champagne.
Up first is the Rene Collard Cuvee Ultime Ultra Brut Champagne ($39.99). This is quite unlike our other Collard wines. Comprised of grapes entirely from the 1995 vintage, this wine has no dosage, or no sugar added. Though it is a dry Brut, it is not a tart style due to the ripeness of the pinot meunier (100%!) used in this wine. A big doughy nose with plenty of ripe pear fruit. In the mouth, ripe apples, yeast and delicate truffle nuances. The no-dosage aspect of this wine comes out in the crisp, lingering finish.
Number two for the month is a huge favorite of mine. The Tarlant Cuvee Louis Brut Prestige ($39.99) is composed of 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir with fruit from the chalkiest hillside vineyards that Tarlant owns in Oeuilly. All of the vines are 45-plus years old resulting in fruit of the highest quality. Fermented in oak barrels without malolactic fermentation for 13 months. Aged on the lees for seven years! The current blend is equally from the 1996 and 1997 vintages. Youthful nose with crisp acidity yet, rich with apples, toast, and a bit of yeast. On the palate, golden apples, fresh bread and cinnamon spice. Don’t forget to toast the kids going back to school! —Scott Beckerley

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This month I have three wines for your collection. They are not cheap, but the quality and pedigree behind them are sure to show themselves when you drink them in ten years.
2001 Heitz Cellars “Martha’s Vineyard” Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($119.00) This wine is superb. I tasted it twice at an industry-only tasting in March, and it stole the show. The 2001 Martha’s delivers on both the winery’s reputation and the vintage. At once rich and elegant, its intense color is followed by aromas of mint and cassis. On the palate, red fruit and firm tannins combine into a focused and firmly tannic wine. One for the cellar… this one will not disappoint those who are patient!
2002 Vineyard 7 Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($75.00) A newcomer to the Spring Mountain area of Napa, this wine is one to put in the cellar and forget about for 5-10 years. This wine exhibits a complex nose of ripe, black currants and blackberries intermixed with whiffs of cedar, tobacco, spice and a hint of chocolate. There is a wonderful balance to the wine in the mouth and the rich complex flavors reflect their aromatic profile. The two winemakers are legends in winemaking. Christian Le Sommer spent years at d’yquem and Ch. Latour and is currently working Barons Rothschild’s properties around the world. Larry Langbehn has spent 30 years in the California wine industry, most notably 10 years with Freemark Abbey.
2003 Egelhoff Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($74.95) Bob Egelhoff is the winemaker for five Napa Valley wineries: David Arthur Vineyards, Amizetta Vineyards, Richard Partridge Wines, Axios Wines and Phelan Vineyard. His 2003 is very approachable with soft tannins and a long creamy finish. 100% cabernet sauvignon sourced from Sacrashe Vineyard and Glendale Vineyard in the hills surrounding Lake Hennessey. 847 cases made.
See you in the City… —Mike Jordan

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It is time to let the secret out about the village of Verzenay and the Champagne of Michel Arnould. Located on the Mountain of Reims, this is one of the most exciting and unique terroirs in Champagne. The furthest north of all of the Grand Crus, it faces north away from the sun and still manages to produce some of the most powerful pinot noir in the region. I love the distinct, hazelnut quality that this special village stamps on its wines, and I feel very lucky to have visited Mr. Patrick Arnould in this sleepy little village a couple of years ago.
Patrick Arnould is the fifth generation of vignerons at Champagne Michel Arnould. They own 27 acres in the village of Verzenay, a quite sizable holding in this high rent area. It is planted to 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay, which reflects the average plantation for the village. The Arnould’s have quite a few plots of vines that are very old and positioned in the golden band of the mid slope where the sun exposure is best. All of the wines undergo complete malolactic fermentation in stainless steel and enamel vats.
If you enjoy the wines of Lallement, Bollinger and Krug, you will very much enjoy Michel Arnould. They are bold, masculine Champagnes with plenty of toasty flavor. Another very good feature is the price (thanks to a direct purchase from Patrick Arnould).
Michel Arnould Verzenay Brut Reserve ($25.99) This is composed of two-thirds pinot noir and one-third Chardonnay from the 2002 and 2001 harvests. With a very pretty light golden color and the precise bead that comes from time in the bottle, this Champagne is a pleasure just to look at. The wine has an explosive, hazelnut and bright pinot fruit aroma and a flavor that manages to be both rich and clean. It is dry at only 10g per liter dosage, and it has a refreshing, long finish.
Michel Arnould Grand Cuvee Brut ($29.99) Exclusively from 1998, this is composed of two-thirds pinot noir and one-third chardonnay. The color is gorgeous gold studded with tiny bubbles. The aroma is amazing. The Champagne has a graceful, delicate balance that Verzenay wines sometimes lack, but with the signature hazelnut pinot core. I found it to have creaminess to complement its racy cherry fruit on the palate and an extraordinarily long, dry finish. It is dosed at 9 grams per liter, very dry! It will age well. —Gary Westby

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The 2005 Bordeaux prices reached dizzying heights for some properties. Those who wanted to buy the first growths and wines like Petrus and Cheval Blanc had to fork over a lot of money. Some customers such as myself were priced out of the market for these wines. The good news is that the 2006 Bordeaux prices will probably be much lower.
I would advise you to do what I’m doing: Get over it! The wine marketplace is always in a constant flux. In 1961 first growths cost $3.00, people were outraged when Beaulieu Private Reserve doubled in price form $1.00 to $2.00 in the same era. Things change; that’s reality.
The reality is also that the weather in Bordeaux has historically never been better than it was in 2005, and there is a plethora of great wine, correctly priced. Here are my tasting notes on some of those. Why not compare them to the price of your average vintage of Napa Valley Cabernet?
The 2005 Carraudes de Lafite ($55.99) showed some nice cool dark fruit and elegance, but it was still very tight and unyielding at this tasting. Shows fine concentration. The 2005 Clos du Marquis ($49.99) was off the charts and by far the best I’ve ever tasted! A beautiful thickness of red fruits and sweet tannins, no question a better tasting wine today than Las Cases. It seems to me that with two great wines like these, they blended the first wine to stand the test of time and longevity, because it’s hard to believe how much outrageously fine fruit is in this second wine.
Sweet red/black fruit with nice round tannins and a powerful finish are in the 2005 Clerc-Milon ($45.99). Never a softy, this is a very solid Clerc that will age very well. With good strong, spicy fruit entry and then grip, the 2005 d’Armailhac ($39.99) is a wine to cellar quite a few years. Showing good, forward red fruit with smoky-earthy hints, the 2005 Haut Bergey Rouge ($29.99) is a well-balanced mid-weight and mid-term wine.
The producer of one of Bordeaux greatest whites has turned its red wine program around! The silky blood red fruit of the 2005 Domaine de Chevailier ($51.99) is deep, pure and outrageously attractive. A wine in perfect harmony, balanced with a sweet, long, elegant finish. The 2005 Barde Haut ($36.99) shows very ripe, large red fruit and good brightness. Not overdone, this one’s well balanced and all together.
Lost in the middle of all the madness of red wine pricing is the outrageous quality of the 2005 Sauternes, a cross in style between the firm acidity and brightness of 2001, and the lush and fat 2003s. If you missed the 2001s, do not miss the 2005s. Prestigious estates of profound quality like 2005 Ch. Suduiraut (375ml $34.99), offering “great thickness and acid insure longevity,” are still available at opening prices. The deal of the vintage is once again the “very sweet and incredible honey flavors” featured in the 2005 Ch. Doisy-Vedrines (375ml $17.99).
Two new 2005s have arrived and are perfect for your fall festivities: Rosé from neighbors in St-Estèphe: Rosé de Phelan Segur ($8.99) and the Rosé de Calon ($12.99). Very fun wines to serve chilled, these can handle a range of appetizers as well as traditional turkey, so save a few for the bird! Feel free to contact me anytime with questions or advise on the wines of Bordeaux at ex 2723 or Ralph@klwines.com. Cheers and Go Giants and Niners! —Ralph Sands

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A small group from K&L spent part of April in Bordeaux tasting and evaluating the wines from the amazing 2005 vintage. We discovered quality and consistency everywhere, but one property stood out, the tiny estate of Château Rochebelle in St-Emilion. These vineyards near Troplong Mondott have some of the best terrior in the appellation. In fact, the parcel the owners sold some years back is the source for the expensive luxury brand La Mondotte. Find out why Robert Parker says, “This is an estate shrewd buyers will monitor closely.” Château direct, too!

1989 Rochebelle, St-Emilion ($49.99) This sensuous, mature beauty has a medium color and dusty plum aromas. The plush cherry vanilla flavors are sweet, round and seductive with very resolved tannin on the finish. Loaded with satiny fruit and tons of character, this Grand Cru from one of the best vintages of the ’80s is drinking perfectly right now.
1990 Rochebelle, St-Emilion ($49.99) This is slightly lighter in color than the ’89 but spicier and my favorite of the bunch. Here we have subtle herbs, very sweet fruit, mineral and bright spice all in perfect harmony. This amazingly elegant wine shows fantastic terrior and has the type of transparency usually found only in Grand Cru Burgundy from great vintages. It’s impossible not to taste the limestone the cellars are chiseled out of in each sip.
1999 Rochebelle, St-Emilion 1.5L ($89.99) This dark, ripe and fruity wine shows plenty of oak and very ripe tannin in a plump, full-bodied style. With its substantial mid-palate and no hard edges, this is the flashiest and sweetest wine tasted here and would be perfect for an informal gathering or BBQ tonight.
2005 Rochebelle, St-Emilion ($44.99 Pre-Arrival) Those of you who have not yet purchased this are in danger of missing one of the great bargains from this spectacular vintage. This is almost black in color and exudes an essence of intense, perfectly ripe grapes. The middle here is deep with the oak completely buried under masses of creamy fruit. Despite the powerful tannic grip on the finish, there is exquisite balance, wonderful freshness and a sense of purity here.
1996 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac ($59.99) This 5th Growth is a big, powerful wine from a classic vintage. Spice, currants, mineral, oak and tannin blend together in the burly mid palate. An hour of decanting will soften this dark, full-bodied gem but a decade of further cellaring will also be rewarded. 92+ points from Robert Parker. —Steve Bearden

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Well after one year of bureaucratic delays, it looks like we should be opening our Hollywood store in a month or two. We are hoping for an October 15 or sooner opening, but we can’t predict that date yet. Check our website for more information. And the address, you ask?? How about Sunset and Vine? To be exact 1400 Vine Street just a block or so south of Sunset, directly across the street from the ArcLight Cinema.
Plenty of parking and easy access from many great L.A. neighborhoods. We are very excited about this new store as are our managers, Chip Hammack and Tom Martinez.
—Clyde Beffa Jr

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Reserve your space for Monday October 23. We will have Anthony Barton, Jean Guillaume Prats, Jean Michel Cazes as well as Jean Charles Cazes with us. We will feature 2004 Bordeaux from these properties as well as 2000 Langoa-Barton, 2000 Ormes de Pez, 2001 Marbuzet, 1995 Lynch Bages, Léoville-Barton and Cos d’Estournel. We will start with Gosset Champagne and finish with 1997 Suduiraut. The event will take place in the Grand Ballroom of The Stanford Court Hotel in San Francisco. Reception at 6:30 and dinner at 7:30. Limited to 120 people. Coat and tie attire. $200 per person.

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This should be a great event with the famous Bordeaux First Growth and its highly regarded Chilean property. Almaviva vintages 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2004 will be poured, along with 1996 Mouton,
the 100-point 1986 Mouton and 1990 Coutet, Sauternes. Meet the directors of both properties. Dinner on Sunday October 1 at Spago in Palo Alto. Reception at 5:30 and dinner at 6:30. Limited to 100 people. Price is $215 per person.

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As I write this on July 30, I am in the middle of escrow with the Anderson Valley property, house and the Barr Family Vineyard. When the decision was made to put this bucolic, pastoral place up for sale, I told Mike Shapiro, owner and agent for North Country Real Estate in Boonville, that I wanted him to find a buyer who could finish the vision I had for this site. Co-owners of Husch Vineyards, Zac and Krista Robinson, are buying the property from me, and I am overjoyed and profoundly touched that they bring to it the same enthusiasm and goals that I envisioned when I sat foot on that hillside in 1991. I think one of their emails to me best reflects this. They wrote: “You have obviously put a lot of work into making it a jewel and we plan to continue your work. Our first goal is to finish the development of the vineyard and bring the vines into production.”
Our Kalinda private label program continues to evolve. We recently landed our first German wine, the 2004 Kalinda Hattenheimer Riesling Dry ($9.99). This is a wonderfully made, dry style riesling that shows both the essence of what this grape is about (floral, spicy notes, with hints of jasmine, white peach and honeysuckle) and the amazing influence of the soil (explicit notes of minerality). Complex, viscous and highly aromatic, this is a serious wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared another five to ten years. Eby says this is her house white for the month.
Château Calon-Segur in St-Estèphe produces, each vintage, a small amount of a dry rosé from their cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes, which is typically sold locally to friends and restaurants. They never exported this very fine wine until last year, when we were allowed to bring in 25 cases The newly arrived 2005 Rosé de Calon ($12.99) is one of the top rosés currently available, and is a preview to the greatness that awaits us with the arrival of this vintage. Bright pink in color, the nose provides distinctive aromas of strawberries and red cherries, while in the mouth it is quite rich and intense with a clean, crisp, mouthwatering finish. This will disappear quickly, so patience is not a virtue here. Try this with duck or other game; it is a perfect match.
Pale yellow in color with just a tint of green, the 2005 Hughes Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet ($6.99)offers a gondola full of quality for a cheap price. Showing perfumed aromas of sweet grapefruit and papaya, this is a dry, crisp wine on the palate that provides a lime zest and almost exotic fruit characteristic. This refreshing little gem will be the perfect match for shellfish and will be our other house white for the month according to Vanilla.
As I view, in utter disbelief, the astronomical prices of many of the 2005 Bordeaux, I realize that there are some great values to be had from an equally great vintage, 2003. And they are available to buy now and consume. Such is the case with the 2003 Château La Tour de Mons ($19.99). Deep ruby in color, its expansive, evolving nose provides currant to blackberry fruit with undertones of roasted coffee bean and chocolate. In the mouth, this gem is full, complex and layered with well-integrated, silky tannins, offering superb structure and depth and a finish that refuses to surrender. This is a Bordeaux that you could enjoy tonight with a bit of airing. It will also age gracefully for another seven to ten years. Anderson says that this will be our house red for September.
If you have any questions about these selections, you can email us at jimbarr@klwines.com. Enjoy this month’s wines!
—Jim, Anderson, Eby and Vanilla

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