K&L Wine Merchants, Redwood City, 1p.m. to 4 p.m. Cost is $15.00 per person. The following wines will be poured:

2005 Saint Chinian Blanc Domaine Rimbert -$11.99

2004 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône Blanc Château d’Estoublon (ORGANIC)-$19.99

2004 Lirac Alain Jaume « Clos de Sixte »- $16.99

2004 Côtes du Rhône Château de Segries « Clos de l’Hermitage »- $18.99

2004 Saint-Joseph Les Vins de Vienne «L’Arzelle»- $25.99

2004 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine du Colombier «Cuvée Gaby»- $24.99

2004 Cornas Vincent Paris «Granit 30» -$29.99

2003 Châteauneuf du Pape Moulin Tacussel- $24.99

2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Bosquet des Papes «Tradition»- $32.99

2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Pierre Usseglio «Tradition» –$34.99

Clairette de Die Cave Carod - $12.99

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Mr. Ravenswood himself greeted me waist high in his pool. He had told me I might find him there as I make my way to his pool house for my stay. He said he wanted to grab some exercise before our Cru Carneros II commencement dinner/last year's taste-off (I'll explain this in more detail later). As I swerved though roses, shrubs and Oak trees, crunching over practically polished pebbles, the world suddenly opened and leapt into my lap. Atop a hill in Somona perched Joel Peterson's impeccably detailed Craftsman style home. His large lap pool and my quarters the pool house benefited from this sweeping view. So as much as I tried to look Joel in the eyes, I struggled because of the depth and longevity of his view that spread and stretched down to the tide flats. There was just too much tootin’ topography to take in on a clear day. I quickly blew the dust off my now betamax looking digital camera (clearly outdated in the age of credit card size cameras) and imagined all the gorgeous photos I could take submerged in varying light and cloud configurations.

Eventually Mr. Joel Peterson, founder and head wine-maker of Ravenswood Winery, toweled off and climbed into a fluffy maraschino cherry red robe. As he turned, I notice there were some extravagant ninja-like symbols embroidered on the back, which threw me off, indeed, as they didn't seem to match his outward middle age and even temperament. However, this excited me—character in the raw. The mystery nudged me along. For all I knew, he could be a professional Ninja star thrower, a renowned sword collector, a firecracker nut, or even a closet thigh-master junkie; the options were truly endless, but the quest for more information scorched each step I took with my heightened curiosity. Clearly in my short stint working with him, I wouldn't learn all I'd love to know about this domestic icon, but hopefully, I'd walk away with engaging stories from his past and a better understanding of wine-making from his perspective.

Within minutes Mr. Mystery Zin man appeared in saggy, faded Levi 401 jeans and leather hiking boots- He was on a mission to keep the deer from demolishing his budding balls of color, his prized roses, by applying some stinky chemical. I must say, it was nice to see a financially successful man taking an active role in his own garden. I smiled—even more character for me to chew on. From the candy red robe to earth tone leisurewear, I certainly was in store for more surprises.

After Joel’s stink patrol, he invited me up from some champagne. We sat and got acquainted, talking of his non-conformist kids, his past as a chemist, his parent's proclivity toward French wines throughout his childhood, his father’s perpetual and very advanced wine tasting groups, his wife's travels, my dogs, my past jobs (which made him tilt his head in wonder), his political and religious predispositions, and mine; needless to say, we got along famously, and so it became clear where his flair for expression came from.

Marinating in our fast friendship, we zipped off to Domain Carneros for dinner with the group and also to meet last year’s group and listen to the judge’s taste and analyze their pinots. This was a blind test, where other prominent Carneros pinots were included as well. I quickly realized I was poorly dressed for the fall chill, as such I hurried to the first mushroom heat lamp. There I began to meet some of last year’s participants. Energy and goose bumps were certainly abound, as most jogged in place, as they tasted through a sampling of Carneros wineries out on Domaine Carnernos’s luxurious patio. Soon, we were herded into a near by room for the beginning of the taste off. How did group one, Pinot envy fare against group number two, Pinot Rage. Each of these groups had a two-day behind the scenes, hands-on harvesting experience. Their wine, through the guidance of mentors to the likes of Larry Hyde and Michael Havens, was crushed, fermented, aged, and matured; and now, a year later their wine was in bottles and ready to sample. Momentum was building as this would be my fate, and shortly this year’s groups and mentors would be selected.

I was called to Joel’s group and was surrounded by eight other restaurant wine directors, sommeliers, etc. We congregated around a long dinner table and began to talk strategy. Scott Wallace and Jeff Stewart from Buena Vista accompanied us and served to be a wealth of information, as the fruit we would pick the next morning was to come from Buena Vista Ranch. They both brought samples for four different Merlot clones and wines that had been made from that clone the year before. Our first task was to decide on one clone or rather to conjure up a blend of the various clones. This was difficult, as the mind wanted to latch on to the taste of the finished wines made from LAST YEAR’S grapes, instead of relying on the taste of this year’s fruit. We had to really get a group consensus on the end result. Did we want a more lush and fruit-forward merlot, or did we want an acidic, structure, earthy merlot. Fortunately, just based on the fact that this fruit was coming from Carneros predetermined some of the overall flavor profile. Despite any of our decisions, we were dealing with a cool climate and grapes that inherently had a good amount of acidity and structure. We ended up going with a 50, 40, 10 breakdown. We all favored a more structured style, but of course keeping balance as the ultimate goal.

As a group we tackled the misty morning at Buena Vista ranch, each of equipped with a tub, gloves and a vine knife. I will report that no one left with any missing digits. It was hard for me not to be so discriminating. I was on the hunt as it were for the perfect cluster, coming from the strongest vine, with the perfect plumpness and no molding or raisining. That didn’t last long. What did last long was the incredibly sticky mud that married to my tennis shoes, by 10am the mud rose ankle high. Our handy tractor trudged along, tootin’ our grape collections until we were officially done with our first task. Next, we were off to the Ravenswood crush facility where we sample tons of different wines in various stages of fermentation. We then crushed our grapes, and began to discuss all the other decisions Joel would have to make on our behalf throughout the year. We decided on native yeasts, three punch downs a day, some initial oak chips added to mitigate the typical Carneros green-vegetal aspect that can dominate. We talked extensively about the prolific use of Oak adjunct or supplements use in today’s market. Joel talked very openly about how many like to deny the use of oak ships and other cost-cutting procedures most all employ. He told us that to make a wine that would sell for say ten dollars, you’d have to use these types of techniques, otherwise you are dealing with the cost of barrels that run up to $1,000.00 a piece. No one can make money in that respect unless the cost of the bottle is considerably higher. He agreed that the romanticism is diminished in many a mind, but that this is the competitive state of affairs. Getting back to our decisions, we agreed to employ the saignee method to create a bit more flavor concentration, and finally we agreed to use some new oak only initially then move it into neutral oak for the remainder.

The sun was schizophrenic that day. By 11am it had turtle headed out of its hovel. By noon, it was a sugared toddler, playing hide-and-go-seek, and by 1pm it was in full Jack-in-the-box mode. I felt the sun’s full assault as we concluded our Cru Carnernos II at Ceja Winery in Carneros. We all enjoyed a wonderful wine-pairing lunch outside and in the middle of Ceja’s vineyards. The sun pulled its childish pranks, local chefs were on panel discussing cuisine and ideal wine-pairings, but mostly we were focused on the food in front of us after a laborious morning’s work.

It would be a year before we’d all get to taste our group’s end result. We all exchanged cards, pats on the back and "safe travels." Ultimately, we’d just have to linger in the reality of winemaking: delayed gratification!

--Keelyn Healy

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The Judgment in Sauternes: The Best of Napa and Bordeaux Vintage 1995

That was the question posed by President-Fondateur, Francois Mauss to a special session of the Grand Jury Europeen held at Ch. Guiraud in Sauternes on September 28th. On the surface it would not seem all that difficult; but what if you took 20 of the greatest wines from Napa (actually 18 as Arrowood is from Sonoma and Ridge from the Santa Cruz Mountains) and 20 of Bordeaux finest wines along with 1 ringer, and tasted them blind from a great vintage like 1995 in both regions? The Jury, consisting of 30 or more people and was a mix of Trade Professionals, Journalist (like Anthony Hansen and Neil Becket from the UK and Joel Payne from Germany), Sommelier (like Andreas Larsson from Sweden) as well as talented amateurs (like Jim Dove from Mo. and Kevin Shin from DC.); 15-22 from continental Europe and 16 from outside Europe. The tasting would try and determine the overall quality of each wine by writing a tasting note, giving the wine a score from 0/100 and then determine if the wine was from Napa or Bordeaux. Seemingly and easy task, but in reality it was not that easy. When I finished it was quite a relief and as I wandered out into the garden for the unveiling of the wines, the facial expressions from my fellow tasters seemed to mirror a much tougher than anticipated but exciting and great tasting experience.

It was a busy week for me. I left on Monday, arrived Tuesday late afternoon at Ch. Lascombes in Margaux, wandered aimlessly thru the vineyards, chewing on the grapes and noticing the striking irregularity in the grapes and the bunches. There was a lot of shatter from grapes that were close to ripeness but had absorbed too much moisture from recent heavy rains and bunches that had been sunburned to beyond raisins from the cutting of leaves that had been done on one side of the vine, as well as signs of Botrytis. 2006 will clearly be a vintage of sever selection at every stage of the winemaking process. Certainly some very good wine will be made in 2006 as the Merlot grapes that rolled off the final sorting belt at Lascombes, and into the mystical looking tank of white fog, a result of the dry ice spray on the grapes as they headed to their cold soak pre maceration, looked almost perfect!

Wednesday was a nice visit and tasting at the impeccably run estate of Ch. Preuillac in northern St-Estephe, followed by lunch, nap and dinner. Thursday morning was a visit and tasting at Ch. Brown located in Pessac, another estate owned as is Ch. Preuillac by Jean-Christophe Mau. A light, but delicious lunch at Claude Darroze in Langon, and then it was off to the Grand tasting at exactly 4pm. By the time you are reading this, all the wines and the full scientific results from numerous angles will all be finished and posted world wide at www.grandjuryeuropeen.com. I ended up tasting 37 wines, not counting the ringer and identifying 28 correctly, here are few of my exact notes that I think you will find interesting. At an event like this you do not have to order desert as it comes to you automatically in the form of humble pie!

Listed below are my exact tasting notes, just as I wrote them down, nothing else, my guesses and results of the wines. For the tasting a total of four bottles of each wine was needed, and professional sommelier checked every one. Unfortunately there were some off bottles of three wines, and random tasters were given a taste of the good bottles. To keep everyone off balance, Cheval Blanc was in the tasting twice. The total wines I tasted were 37 and one of those was a ringer, which turned out to be wine #16. We had exactly 2 hours to complete the tasting and then it was outside in the garden for the unveiling of the wines.

#1 Very minty, lively and fragrant, the sweet middle fruit, lacks some soul in the middle and is a little short, pleasant wine, maybe Araujo? I guessed CALIFORNIA and 87/100…it was SCREAMING EAGLE

#2 Fine, high toned nose of Cassis and dark cherry, these flavors continue on the palate and hit all the right spots, long complex and sweet finishing, great Pomerol? I guessed BORDEAUX and 90/100…it was HARLAN ESTATE

#3 High toned herbal nose, medicinal smelling, lean in the middle, the finish stops, don’t care for this. I guessed BORDEAUX and 81/100 it was HAUT BRION

#4 Spicy Cabernet nose, fresh and classic, just enough sweetness, fine and elegant. Superbly balanced, just a touch short and woody on the finish. I guessed BORDEAUX 93/100 it was LAFITE ROTHSCHILD

#5 Sweet smack of fresh raspberry and red currant fruits, well balanced and not overdone in any way, very fine Ca. wine. I guessed CALIFORNIA 92/100 it was MONTELENA ESTATE

#6 Ripe, sweet herbal nose, sweet candied toned fruit on palate, hint of whiskey barrel on the finish. I guessed CALIFORNIA 88/100 it was ARAUJO

#7 Leafy nose with dried fruit aromas, dry middle fruit, high acid and quick drying finish. I guessed BORDEAUX 86/100 it was ARROWOOD RESERVE SPECIALE

#8 Restrained nose of spice and earth, the wine tightens very quickly and is short finishing. I guessed BORDEAUX 84/100 it was PETRUS

#9 Fresh and spicy nose of Cabernet with hints of maritime/ocean freshness, very strong and elegant at the same time. I guessed BORDEAUX 93/100 it was LATOUR

#10 Big, soft and ripe! Round and silky smooth, no hard edges, fine richness as well as balance. I guessed CALIFORNIA 94/100 it was LA JOTA ANNIVERSARY RESERVE

#11 Huge fruitball, BUT attractive and tasty as well as balanced, very low acid. For the waffles or pancakes? I guessed CALIFORNIA 90/100 it was SHAFER HILLSIDE

#12 Lovely pure/restrained fruit, strong wine with fine elegance, long life ahead. I guessed BORDEAUX 93/100 it was CH. PALMER

#13 Slight hints of mint, eucalyptus and wild herbs, tasty middle fruit and finely balanced. I guessed BORDEAUX 91/100 it was CH. TROTANOY

#14 Round, sweet nose with oak, deep jammy fruit, low acid, could be fresher but very nice wine. I guessed CALIFORNIA 90/100 it was MONDAVI RESERVE

#15 Big sweetness and high alcohol hit on the nose, disjointed and very dry with hints of decay. I guessed CALIFORNIA 84/100 it was HAUT-CONDISSAS

#16 Over the top nose, baskets of strawberries and boysenberries, dries out super-quick, not my style, Valendraud? Colgin? Perplexing…I guessed CALIFORNIA 85/100 it was PINGUS FROM SPAIN

#17 Perfect ripeness, sweetness and balance, lovely texture in the mouth, Wow is this Cheval Blanc? I guessed BORDEAUX and 94/100…it was ABREU

# 18 NOT TASTED—it was Ch. Margaux

#19 Very ripe, almost portlike hints, soft texture, well balanced and tasty. Low acid. I guessed CALIFORNIA 90/100 it was CH. VALANDRAUD

#20 Dried herbs with medicinal aromas? Flat out weird and short, bad sample? I guessed BORDEAUX 79/100 it was LA MISSION HAUT BRION

#21 Lively nose of Frambois, very fresh and fragrant. Very nice balance, elegant and tasty, tough call. I guessed CALIFORNIA 93/100 it was SPOTTSWOOD

#22 Very nice sweet fruit and dried herbs on the nose, dry, elegant and fresh on the palate, superbly balanced. I guessed BORDEAUX 92/100 it was SPRING MOUNTAIN

#23 Sweet candied fruit, Merlot? Straightforward, earthy and warm, a bit woody on the finish. I guessed BORDEAUX 89/100 it was CH. CHEVAL BLANC

#24 Maritime freshness jump out at you, very attractive, strong, elegant and nice and compact, fine claret! I guessed BORDEAUX 89/100 it was CH. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD

#25 NOT TASTED—it was Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill

#26 Sweet fruit of wild herbs and spice, a little chunky, tasty, sweet finish. I guessed CALIFORNIA 89/100 it was BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE

#27 Sweet fruit with hints of anise/licorice, earth and wild herbs. Rich, sweet, with good fatness in the middle of the wine, but not overdone! I guessed CALIFORNIA 90/100 it was RIDGE MONTEBELLO

#28 Sweet, blackberry jam fruit on the nose, lush and sweet on the palate with low acidity, although it keeps its balance, very nice. I guessed CALIFORNIA 91/100 it was STAGLIN FAMILY

#29 Very herbal and quick drying wine, rather simple and short finishing. I guessed BORDEAUX 78/100 it was CH. LE BON PASTEUR

#30 Cedar box nose, very herbal and lean on the palate and the finish. Not exciting. I guessed BORDEAUX 88/100 it was DOMINUS

#31 Mint and eucalyptus aromas as well as medicinal notes, short finish. I guessed CALIFORNIA 88/100 it was PAHLMEYER

#32 Big dumb nose with broad masculine fruit, a powerful wack of drying tannins on the finish. I guessed CALIFORNIA 89/100 it was PHELPS
INSIGNIA

#33 Sweet herbal nose, with smoky hints, bright, fresh and elegant, good life ahead, very well balanced with a spicy long finish. I guessed BORDEAUX 93/100 it was Ch. AUSONE

#34 Wow, big fruit bowl aromas of guava, passion fruit, pomegranate, not my style, but on the palate it is silky, very tasty and that great taste carry’s thru the long finish. I guessed CALIFORNIA 94/100 it was COLGIN

#35 Hints of coffee and caramel, slight development, but not on the palate! Rich middle of earthy/old vine fruit, will develop for a very long time; serious Bordeaux! I guessed BORDEAUX 94/100 it was (again) CH. CHEVAL BLANC

#36 Super sweet nose of ripe cherries, wow, very complex on the palate, round and opulent, dense and intense at the same time and it all stays in balance! I guessed CALIFORNIA 95/100 it was PRIDE RESERVE

#37 Sweet mulberry fruit and decay on nose, extracted dry tannins, flabby and out of balance. I guessed BORDEAUX 80/100 it was CH. CRIOX DE LABRIE

#38 NOT TASTED- it was Le Tertre Roteboeuf

#39 Gorgeous and fragrant aromas of spicy Cabernet, finely tuned wine, strong and long, this is fantastic, long aging, classic Bordeaux! I guessed BORDEAUX 96/100 (the highest score I gave) it was CH. LEOVILLE LAS CASES

#40 Pure, intense, deep rich fruit (of sweet Merlot?) with the baby fat still around, good structure in the middle. Will be long lived, fine. I guessed BORDEAUX 95/100 it was CH. ROLLAND DE BY (by far the biggest surprise of the tasting to me, but that’s why you taste them blind)
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A few afterthoughts…

In my opinion both sides of the world showed fantastically; clearly showing that the perception of the top wines in the world are in fact just that, top shelf!

I finished the tasting with just a few minutes to spare, I had marked a couple of wines to go back and taste again, but I decided to stay put and go on the first impression and not start doubting myself. That being said and being the competitor that I am, even at 50 years of age, I must tell you that I’m still a bit pissed off that I missed a couple of these wines, because if you read my notes on #2 it screams California and conversely the “portlike hints” on wine #19 I should have identified as the “great garage wine of Valandraud”. I do not use the term “great garage wine” lightly or in jest as we have tasted hundreds of these type wines in the past and most of them smell like they will have tremendous amounts of attractive sweet fruit; until you put the wine in your mouth and your almost knocked to the ground by wood and super extracted tannins and a wine void of natural fruit and good taste. Valandraud consistently bucks that trend.

In preparation for this tasting of which I was a late invitee, (someone got very ill and I was offered the spot) I did not drink a Bordeaux wine for 2 weeks, a record for me, but I did taste a 1995 California wine every other night.

I would like to thank Francios Mauss, Bruno Finance and the GJE for the unique opportunity of judging this event; as well as the support from the ownership of K&L Wine Merchants, Paul Draper from Ridge vineyards, my good friend and customer Lee Brokaw and the well wishes from so many clients.

Please feel free to contact me with questions or advice on the wines of Bordeaux at ext#2723 or Ralph@klwines.com Cheers and Go Niners!
--Ralph Sands

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Fourteen years ago, as a college student ‘studying’ abroad in Rome, my classmates and I would frequently joke about our evening plans.
“What should we have for dinner tonight?” one of us would ask.
And the answer, inevitably, “How about Italian?”

In 1992 it was possible to sniff out an outpost of some exotic repast. After seven months living there, for instance, I uncovered an Indian place in Trastevere and heard tell of a tapas joint, though it never materialized in the flesh. But the City was still remarkably homogeneous in its citizenry, and the food followed suit. Not that we could complain. We all ate extremely well. At neighborhood trattorie, cross town restauranti, and dozens of pizzerie, we gorged ourselves on the best food we had ever collectively had. And so it was doubly confounding to find, after countless bowls of pasta in limitless preparations, endless plates of marinated eggplant and zucchini, the obligatory whole fish alla griglia and portions of porchetta, pancetta and of course prosciutto, that we hungered for something, anything other than Italian.

Preparing for a visit to Rome in Septmeber of 2006, I heard tell of Rome’s new ‘international’ style. Friends returning from there spoke of Irish pub food, French bistros, Cantonese, Ethiopian, and most alarmingly of all—fusion. This panoply of multi-ethnic foods is all well and good in a place like San Francisco, but Rome! I hated to think of my City, The Eternal City, home to not only the Pantheon, but also to Papandrou’s Greek Palace, to Campo dei Fiori as well as Chokichi Sushi. In the face of this new and ‘improved” Rome, how could I possibly relive my Italian debauches?

I needn’t have worried. Yes, Rome is slightly more modernized, but there is still PLENTY of amazingly good, traditional Italian and/or Roman food. What follows is a short list of the standouts. If you go to Rome in the future, do seek these places out.

Hosteria del Pesce
Via di Monserrato, 32
39 06 6865617
Just down the street from the Piazza Farnese, this place is easy to miss. The non-descript, unmarked door is just about blocked by a few plastic ice buckets full of tiny clams, live langoustines and bracingly fresh fish. Inside the place is very lively, casual and loud. If you haven’t guessed it from the name, this is a fish place. And that’s all they have. Cold seafood platters, pasta tossed with seafood, and then more seafood. Everything is insanely fresh. We even ate entire raw shrimp, heads and all! The wine list is all Italian, naturally, almost completely white, and very well priced. The staff are great and quite patient (there isn’t really a menu. Just tell them to bring whatever they suggest; it will be wonderful!). Reserve in advance.

La Sora Lella
Via Ponte Quattro Capi, 16
39 06 6861601
Located on the Isola Tiburina, in the middle of the Tiber river, this place is old world, though elegant, and serves a slightly updated take on Roman food, which means salt cod (or baccala) and slow roasted meats, as well as some of the best pasta dishes we tried in Italy. The wine list is impressive, too. Romantic tiny dining room. One of my dishes, ravioli filled with cheese and tossed with a sauce of pureed black truffles, was among the top five things I have ever eaten in my life! Reserve in advance.

Trattoria St. Teodoro
Via dei Fienili, 49-50-51
39 06 6780933
A quick walk from the Forum, this is just the place to carb load after a grueling morning of ancient roman sightseeing. Very local, which is surprising given its proximity to several big tourist destinations. Most the people eating here for lunch seemed to be Italian government officials, all men, and all dressed impeccably, of course! The food is refined classic Italian, with an emphasis on fish, and the pastas are all superb. The wine list is long and impressive in all regions of Italy. There is even a water list for various mineral waters, still and sparkling! Not cheap, but serious food.

Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari, 21-22
39 06 6875287
This wine bar is easily reachable from Campo dei Fiori, right in the center of historic Rome. There is an amazing selection of cheeses (you can order a European cheese plate, an Italian plate, or a regional plate, with cheeses from only Lazio, say, or Umbria), sliced cured meats and, of course, wines. Just the place to check out for a ‘smaller’ size meal. And the hipster staff includes a young woman from Canada, which makes ordering something from the wine list a whole lot easier.

Enjoy! --Elisabeth Schriber

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The holidays are back again? It just seemed like yesterday that we were celebrating New Years and now Thanksgiving is around the corner. It seems life moves at a quick pace the older you get. Remember the days when one could sleep 12 hours with no problem. Those days are over
for me. Relaxing is a little tougher these days. Yoga sure helps as does a nice glass of wine… or two. I hope these wines can help you relax during this hectic holiday period.
2004 Eric K James “Bernache Block” Carneros Chardonnay ($14.99) I don’t often write about Chardonnay but this is something special. The wine was prevented from undergoing malolactic fermentation to preserve fruit and crispness and was aged for 11 months sur lie in neutral oak. This shows crispness that highlights its beautiful fruit. Only 89 cases made.
2005 A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir ($16.99) Another great vintage from this Oregon negociant. Sourced fruit from all the great Oregon producers and put it together to showcase the great pinot produce up north. Clear and vibrant, this wine has a beautiful dark color and aromas of mixed berries, earth, smoke, violets, Asian spices and minerals.
2003 Forth “All Boys” Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($18.99) All Boys is the happy outcome of the blending of Cabernet grown in the vineyards of the Forths’ two sons, four grandsons and that of a beautiful neighboring vineyard owned by five brothers. Bright, bountiful berries and cherries, toasty oak and supple tannins combine to create a delightfully accessible
Cabernet. See you in the City... —Michael Jordan

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I’ll be frank: I’m often not a big fan of California wine. When I drink wine, I drink with food, and I don’t want something that will overpower my palate and the flavors that I’m serving it with. But, there’s no reason why local wine can’t play friendly with food, and the 1987 Joseph Swan Zinfandel is a perfect example. In fact, it exemplifies common problems with most
modern West Coast wines. Even the lightest of modern Zins dwarf the Swan’s 12.5% alcohol, and most North Coast wineries would do everything in their power to avoid Swan’s lovely acidity. Recently tasted blind with a bunch of like-minded winos, no one guessed the Swan and many pegged it for an Italian wine. It’s a logical guess, considering that the fathers of the modern California wine industry were Italian immigrants whose main goal was to have something to drink with dinner. The modern irony is that the Zinfandel favored by early Californians for its tangy acid is being ripened to raisins. Lately many classic Italian varieties that those farmers were trying to replicate are being treated the same way. Because of this over-the-top treatment Cal-Ital wines are often challenged by the first rule of new world wine; they lack “varietal correctness.” Fortunately, the wines from Palmina in Santa Barbara County buck the bigger-is-better trend. Steve and Chrystal Clifton have an obvious love of northern Italian wines (they were married in Friuli). Moreover they understand how to use Italian grape varieties with integrity. The 2003 Palmina Stolpman Vineyard Nebbiolo ($31.99) has the tar and violets of a Langhe wine. The 2005 Palmina Alisos Vineyard Traminer ($21.99) tastes more like the minerals of that variety’s Tyrolean home than the sweet perfume of most domestic (or even Alsatian) Gewurz. Palmina wines are meant for the table. Don’t miss the opportunity to taste these distinctive wines. —Paul Courtright

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This is what a break from harvest looks like in the Rhone. Everyone, meet, once again, Chateau de Montfaucon owner/winemaker Rodolphe "Rudi" de Pins (on the right) and American flying winemaker Dave Potter, who's been pitching in with harvest in the Southern Rhone. In France it's tough to go far without seeing some kind of marvelous monument, and the Pont du Gard, pictured here, is one of the more spectacular ones. The three-tiered arched Roman bridge is actually an aqueduct (those clever Romans!) and spans the river Gard near Nimes. Rudi (who's done his own fair share of flying winemaking), took Dave there for a little sightseeing and R&R during harvest.

Speaking of which, the report from Montfaucon is that Rudi is "very happy so far with 2006 even though the yields are low, the fruit that is coming in is lovely." We'll look forward to tasting that good stuff when it's released! In the mean time, Chateau de Montfaucon reports that they've released some older vintages of their wines to K&L, including the Baron Louis 2000 (also in magnum) and Cotes du Rhone 1999. I tasted and loved both these wines when I visited this summer (you can read about it here ) and think that's great news.

Cheers!

--- Courtney Cochran, aka Your Personal Sommelier, provides personalized wine services to adventurous wine collectors, purveyors and enthusiasts, making wine accessible and fun for those who think outside the mainstream wine box. Visit her site at www.CourtneyCochran.com.

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It never fails to impress and delight. The gift of good Pinot, that is. I can't tell you how many times I've gifted or received outstanding, even what some might call "cult" California Pinot Noir, and it's always with a sense of giddy anticipation. If receiving, the excitement stems from my anticipation of quaffing the fabulous stuff. If receiving, I know there's an excellent chance I can wrangle a glass (or more, if I'm very crafty) from said bottle, so it's a win-win situation no matter what.

I think the reason good California Pinot makes such a great gift is that, when well made, the stuff is an absolute treat. It's so delightfully smooth and rich at the same time and knitted through with simply gorgeous notes of baking spices, licorice, herbs, cherry and pomegranate fruit, leather and other treats that it's, well, a really wonderful drinking experience.

Better yet, good California Pinot can be consumed right away (so no need to shove it away for years of opining) and drinks beautifully by turns with both food and just on its own, perhaps sipped next to a roaring fire on your next holiday ski getaway. (Go ahead, cue mental picture of yourself apres-ski at Tahoe or Snowmass or Telluride with said Cult Pinot. Looks good, don't it?)

There's also something fabulous about uncorking a beauty of a Cali Pinot on a nothing-special Wednesday night at home, to quaff with take-out served on good china. Suddenly the mid-week hump just got a lot easier to get over.

However or wherever it's drunk, great Cali Pinot is guaranteed to delight. Which is why it's at the top of my holiday gift list this year, and is a top candidate for gifting to others as well. Snag a bottle for your boss, your spouse, your favorite client, your mom - everyone is guaranteed to love it. And, they just might share it with you, if you’ve not been too naughty this year.

Here are a few of my favorites, all of which can be procured from K&L with very little effort and great reward:

Woodenhead.

I was first introduced to this stuff by very cool wine blogger about town Alder Yarrow, who nudged me towards it at Zap (they make great Zin too, those multifaceted folks). Their Zin was outstanding, and I’ve since been thrilled to discover that the same goes for their Pinot Noir. The SF Chron described the ’03 this way: “Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavor; Burgundian style.” Tempting, no??!

Here’s a pic of a bunch of Woodenhead Pinots from Pinot Days earlier this year. Look at those gorgeous pastel labels and snazzy gold caps! If there’s a cult Pinot the ladies will love, it’s this one (we’re suckers for pretty packaging). But fear not: they make some with more masculine black labels too – a little something for everyone. It’s all great, no matter the color!

Recommended wine: 2004 Woodenhead "Buena Tierra Vineyard" Russian River Pinot Noir, $44.99. Only 193 cases produced of this single-vineyard beauty. How fab is that?

Burrell School Vineyards.

I just got back from a delightful visit to this very cool winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, where I met winemaker/owner Dave Moulton, who’s been experimenting with a host of grape varieties including, rather famously, Cabernet Franc, in this area for more than 30 years. His Pinots are simply gorgeous, and my favorite on this trip was from the Veranda Vineyard, which is located at about 800 feet elevation in the southern part of the Santa Cruz winegrowing region.

The wine strikes the perfect Pinot balance between complexity and lightness of body, and is teeming with pretty herb, spice and red fruit aromas and flavors. The oak is deftly applied and really well integrated alongside a pleasant earthiness, making a Pinot that’s perfect for our New World palates, which crave ripe fruit but appreciate a little funk as well. Plus, you can’t beat the price on this one. Who says you can't afford cult?

Recommended wine: 2003 Burrell School "Veranda Vineyard" Santa Cruz Pinot Noir, $27.99.

And finally, Saintsbury.

A name so long affiliated with top Cali Pinot it hardly needs an introduction. Known for producing one of the most balanced Pinots in the state, this affirmed Cali cult producer only bottles very small amounts of their Brown Ranch Pinot Noir each year. The Ranch features a dazzling array of soil types, rootstocks, exposures and Pinot clones, all of which add up to a beautiful, nuanced wine that’s a welcome departure from their typically more red fruit-driven Pinots: this wine shows lovely dark fruit flavors and earthiness, a perfect combination for the fall and winter months and richer foods. Santa would approve.

Recommended wine: 2003 Saintsbury "Brown Ranch" Pinot Noir, $49.99.

--- Courtney Cochran, aka Your Personal Sommelier, provides personalized wine services to adventurous wine collectors, purveyors and enthusiasts, making wine accessible and fun for those who think outside the mainstream wine box. Visit her at www.CourtneyCochran.com

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Cliff Lede Vineyards was established in 2002, when Canadian businessman Cliff Lede purchased approximately 60 acres in the northern end of the Stags Leap District. The property, formally known as S. Anderson, is planted to Bordeaux varietals: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Mr. Lede put together an all-star team, which includes winemaker Michelle Edwards (formerly of Colgin), Vineyard Manager David
Abreu (Harlan, Colgin, Bryant Family Vineyards and Screaming Eagle) and internationally renowned winemaking consultant, Michel Rolland (Harlan, Bon Pasteur), to help create a wine from Napa that he could be proud of.
2005 Cliff Lede Napa Sauvignon Blanc ($19.99) Fresh, crisp and still rich complex fruit explodes from the glass and finishes with a hint of lime and citrus. This mineral-driven Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favorites from Napa.
2003 Cliff Lede Stag’s Leap District Claret ($29.99) Offering delicious blackberry fruit with a rich, concentrated middle, lush and fleshy finish, the Claret is a blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 1% malbec. This wine can be enjoyed now with a bit of air.
2003 Cliff Lede Stag’s Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon ($47.99) Build for the long haul, this Cabernet shows deep, concentrated fruit, hints of mocha and spice and a firm backbone. It will be at its best with several more years of bottle age and should develop even more over the next 10 years. —Trey Beffa

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With a refreshing aromatic nose of white flowers and a note of lavender, the 2005 Raventos i Blanc Parfum de Vi Blanc, Penedes ($13.99) is a blend of macabeo (60%) and muscat (40%), that finishes clean and bright. A splash of ripe peaches also shows through on the palate, with great acidity and a long, fresh finish. Serve as aperitif, with appetizers, or right up to the turkey!
A little more lemony citrus, with great floral character and nice acidity, the 2005 Bodegas Angel Rodriguez Martinsancho Verdejo ($14.99) is lovely. Josh Reynolds of Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar gives it 88 points: “Pungent, grassy nose, with vibrant scents of lemon, green tea, ginger and jasmine. Spicy and incisive, with brisk citrus flavors accented by herbs and minerals.” (Sep/Oct 06) This will be on my table November 23 with the turkey, of course.
Perhaps you’d prefer a red wine with your roast beast? The 2004 Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos Roble, ($14.99) from Ribera del Duero boasts a tannic backbone surrounded by cherry and a hint of cocoa. Robert Parker gave it 88 points: “…Displays elegance as well as dramatic aromatics with scents of flowers, cherries, and berries…A medium-bodied, nicely concentrated style.” (06/05)
A week without drinking Rioja is a terrible shame. The 2000 La Rioja Alta, Alberdi, Rioja ($18.99) makes for an affordable indulgence. This is a classic blend of tempranillo (90-95%) and a touch of mazuelo, exhibiting dried berries, spice box and a hint of vanilla. Its softly refined tannins will please neophyte and veteran Rioja lovers alike. Did I mention lamb, ham and turkey? —Dan Buckler

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2005 Mas Que Vinos, Ercavio Blanco, La Mancha ($8.99) Airen is not one of those grape varieties that receive a lot of press. Here at Bodegas Ercavio, they have raised this lowly grape to a truly terrific wine. Blended with a bit of sauvignon blanc, this white wine is dry, fresh and crisp. Reminiscent of the kiwi style of Sauvignon Blanc, I love it as an aperitif.
2005 Finca Luzon, Luzon, Jumilla ($6.99) 88 points Parker: “The 2005 Luzon is a blend of 65% Mourvedre and 35% Syrah that exhibits a dark ruby/purple color in addition to loads of blackberry and cassis fruit, good ripeness and richness, decent acidity, and a freshness undoubtedly due to the vineyards' lofty altitudes of 2,000-2,300 feet. Consume it over the next several years.”
2004 Candela Carro, Murcia ($8.99) 89 points Robert Parker: “There are 6,000 cases of the 2004 Carro, a tank-fermented and aged, un-oaked blend of 50% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, 20% Tempranillo, and 10% Merlot. It reveals terrific fruit intensity, copious black cherries and wild mountain berries, and notions of licorice, flowers, roasted meats, and chocolate. With supple tannin, low acidity, and abundant fruit, it is a joy to drink as well as a spectacular value. Consume it over the next 12-18 months. This estate is one of the top discoveries of all my tastings.”
2004 Mas Que Vinos, Ercavio Roble, La Mancha ($8.99) The 2003 sold out so fast that if you blinked, you missed out! The 2004 is even better—more length, depth and concentration. Made from 100% cencibel, the local name for tempranillo, this tinto is made using a blend of traditional and modern methods…spending some time in large clay amphoras known as tinajas and aged for five months in a mix of French and American oak. Full and fleshy, this red from La Mancha has plenty of ripe black cherry fruit and a long finish.
Buen Provecho! —Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com

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The daughter of a respected vigneron, 26-year-old Adèle Rouzé, a certified land appraiser, is following in her father’s footsteps producing wine. After her studies were finished and following a stint in Bordeaux Adèle came home with the idea of making her own wine. She works parcels of old vines some planted in the 1920s and 1930s and others around 1950, all south/south-east facing mostly on the left part of the Cher river in Central France. She cultivates only sauvignon blanc, using only natural products in the soil.
Quincy is part of a large group of wine-growing regions in the eastern Loire Valley, not far from Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, known for bright racy sauvignons infused with minerality that are refreshing, slightly citric and always fun. The soils in Quincy are sandy with gravel, giving more immediate wines for drinking young, whites to enjoy in the first two or three years for all their snappy fresh, herbal goodness. Adèle’s entire production of the 2005 Adèle Rouzé Quincy ($14.99) , around 8000 bottles a year, fits into one tank where it is kept on its lees until bottling after one racking and a slight filtration. Enjoy!
—Jeff Vierra

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Edna Valley is much more than just the winery everyone knows about (whose wines I find rock-solid, and wonderfully priced!). There are other producers making terrific wine in this under-appreciated appellation. Tolosa Vineyards was one of the first families to plant grapes in Edna Valley, and for many years sold flawless fruit off their 720 acres to other producers. Only recently have they held back the top 10% of their crop to make a wine under their own label. Boy, am I glad they did!
The 2004 Tolosa Edna Valley Chardonnay ($16.99) is every bit as yummy as Chardonnays from the Edna Valley appellation can be. There’s something about this region that produces a very distinct style of juicy, fresh, tropical fruity goodness. Call it terroir, call it predilection, but Tolosa’s hit the mark. Delightfully ripe and fresh, this light-golden liquid does wonders on the palate. Zesty and fresh, this Chard’s my pick for white of the season.
As tradition suggests, a great Chard-making region often means a great Pinot Noir-making region, and the 2003 Tolosa Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($19.99) delivers on that promise. Floral, vibrant, with persistent dark cherry and plum flavors and a thoroughly enjoyable finish, this deserves a place at a dinner feast as epic as Gilgamesh. A stunning value for under $20! Now, if you end up liking these wines, I do have Tolosa Edna Valley Syrah ($190 per case) available for special order by the case. Email me at mreyes@klwines.com if you’d like a box. Happy Turkey Day, and as always, enjoy! —Martin Reyes

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This month meet me a hop, skip and a jump away from the Franco-Spanish border, or more precisely the French winegrowing region known as the Roussillon. About 20 minutes north of Perpignan a critical mass of both young and more established vignerons is forming and making GREAT wine from old vines, low yields and very poor soil. Some of the big guns include Gauby, Mas Amiel, Olivier Pithon, Marjorie Gallet at Roc des Anges. I would also invite rising star Eric Sonne of Clot de l’Oum to join as the newest member of this elite group. Eric purchased vineyard land here in the late 1990s and produced his first vintage in 2001. His 18 hectares are divided amongst 33 different parcels within the communes of Maury and Belesta. Although the soil types are quite varied, one finds a predominance of granite (think Cote Rotie and Hermitage!) and smaller amounts of schist and gneiss. Erics parcels lie between 400-600 meters in altitude on predominantly sloping hillsides, which contribute to great exposure, more long, slow ripening and fresh elegant wines. The 2004 Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Clot de L’Oum “Compagnie des Papillons” ($18.99) is composed of old-vine grenache and carignan, and owes its name to the numerous butterlies which, after nearly a decade of organic viticulture, have returned to the vineyard. At once spicy, peppery and deep, there are copious amounts of ripe dark fruits, Spanish lavender and black olive notes, along with graphite and smoke on the finish. Rich and balanced Roussillon red at its best! —Mulan Chan

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Returning for its third D-I engagement of the last twelve months is the Aimery Sieur d’Arques “1531” Cremant de Limoux ($9.99) and with its six months of further bottle development, it is even better than before. It offers up layers of green apple, pear and citrus fruit with a fine bead and an oh so delicate hint of hazelnut. If you loved the 1531 the first time around we suggest you stock up. More lushness, more viscosity and an even finer bead. Eby has told me that this is our everyday house sparkler for the year.
The 2005 Kalinda Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc ($9.99) offers a lovely nose of fig, red clover, and melon lead immediately into a viscous, lush sauvignon blanc that is not only a lovely wine to have as a cocktail, but one that would be well-suited for an ahi tuna or salmon dinner. Vanilla has informed me that this little gem is our other house white for the month.
The 2005 Domaine de Chevalier Rosé, Pessac-Leognan ($10.99) is here just in time for the holidays. With its bright strawberry to raspberry fruit characteristics underscored by that typical Graves minerality, this dry, clean, crisp cabernet-based wine will work wonders at your table. And I do believe this is our first offering of rosé from Domaine de Chevalier, which is one of my favorite Graves producers.
From a 40-year-old property, the 2003 Château Serilhan, St-Estèphe ($19.99) is a stunner, loaded with cassis, currants and other black fruits both on the nose and in the mouth. It is complex, layered and long, and is vinified to be drunk near-term and over the next
several years. This will be one of our house reds for the month.
Finally, returning for its third DI engagement this year is one of my favorite wines, the 2003 Château de Montfaucon, Cotes du Rhone ($9.99). It is rich, broad, ready to drink, worth a case or two in your cellar for day-to-day consumption (especially for such meals as stews and ragout), and enough written… buy it and thank me later. Anderson has for the third time informed me that this is our house red for the month.
If you have any questions about these selections, you can email us at jimbarr@klwines.com. Enjoy this month’s wines!
—Jim, Anderson, Eby and Vanilla

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Thanksgiving is a time for reflection, football and the smell of a broom closet. Oops, I meant to say the smell of turkey. Thanksgiving turkey… an endless loop of Jim Barr jokes that beg to see the light of day. But Thanksgiving is about history, invasion and Sterling Vineyards wine. Let me take you back to the beginning…
The Santa Maria was the first of the ships to set anchor in the Bay of Pigs. The New World. America. But it looked a LOT like Norway.
Captain Ishmael James Barr (“call me Ishmael”) and his crew reached the rocky shores of Plymouth, Duster on the third Thursday of November. They bore glad tidings. They bore gifts of Sterling wine. Truth to tell, they bore everyone.
The native people greeted the seafaring contingent warily; they’d already coughed up Manhattan for peanuts, and they weren’t about to get shafted again. The usual beads and pleasantries were exchanged (“How about those Yankees?” “You look great! New headdress?”). By and by the discussion turned to the evening meal. “We’ll bring the wine,” said Captain Barr. And so they did.
The table was set for fifty. Not a moveable feast. An amazing array of comestibles assaulted the senses of the contingent: A maze of maize and ferries of cranberries. Haystacks of stuffing. Dams full of yams. Green eggs and hams. And the bird... my word! More wings than an airport runway. More breasts than a Russ Meyer movie. And the Patriots were playing the Chiefs on T.V.
Captain Ishmael’s crew presented the wines: Sterling Vineyards library wines of such breadth, the ’76, ’77 and ’78. ’82, ’84 and ’86. ’87, ’90, ’91 and ’92. Napa bottlings, priced to buy and ready to drink; Reserves, full and rich and concentrated. Diamond Mountain Ranch selections, crafted in the style of the great wines of Bordeaux.
There were larger bottles too: magnums and double magnums, six liters and nine (A whole case in a bottle!). An amazing selection, direct from the winery. Captain Ishmael flushed with pride and the change of life. The Patriots-Chiefs contest began.
The meal was a great success.
Until dessert.
Giant pies made from pumpkins were brought out, scirocco warm and as aromatic as a French subway. What followed may have been the swiftest unraveling of diplomatic relations since the barf in the Japanese Prime Ministers lap thing.
The native people brought out bowls of cream that had obviously been whipped mercilessly. Whipped and whipped, until it flowed no more. The cream lay motionless.
Captain Ishmael was appalled. This blatant violation of the world torture ban would not be tolerated. He and his crew rowed back to the Santa Maria and set sail. As Captain Ishmael J. Barr peered through his telescope, he asked his first mate what part of the cargo hold he had put the Sterling wines that were brought back to the ship. “I thought you brought them,” said the mate.
Reverse gear. Running up the beach. But the table... and the wines... were gone.
Game over. Chiefs won.
—Joe Zegulder

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As we launch into the month of Thanksgiving I am pleased to have the return of two marvelous Champagnes from producer Michel Arnould. The first of these is the Michel Arnould Verzenay Brut Reserve ($25.99) . The blend is 65% pinot noir and 35% chardonnay. The nose is nutty and clean. This is a dry style with low dosage (10 grams per liter). All of the fruit used is from the 2000 and 2001 vintage. In the mouth, an initial zippy, lemony characteristic followed by flavors of Bing cherries, apples and a light bit of honey on the back of the palate. All of this combines with the hazelnut aspect of the pinot noir fruit to produce a memorable Champagne. Why drink copycats from other countries when you can have the real thing for less than $26?
The “big sister” wine to the Brut Reserve is the Michel Arnould Grand Cuvee Brut ($29.99) . Drier than the Brut Reserve (only 9 grams of dosage per liter), the Grand Cuvee comes off creamier and richer. This is probably due to the fruit being entirely from the 1998 harvest (though it is not labeled as such). Identical blend to the Brut Reserve. Freshly roasted hazelnuts on the nose with lush ripe cherries and tart apple scents. On the palate, tart cherries mingle with cream and toast. Cocoa flavors on the finish. Both of these Champagnes have an elegance and delicacy and both are bold Champagnes unparalleled in value! A perfect way to start your Thanksgiving, or to enjoy with pumpkin pie at the finish. Happy Thanksgiving! —Scott Beckerley

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Laurent Perrier is a big Champagne house, but unlike most of the big houses, they produce very little of their prestige cuvee. Moet & Chandon is synonymous with Dom Perignon and Roederer with Cristal. Only a few fanatics know about Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle.
Grand Siecle has been difficult to sell for Laurent Perrier in the U.S. because unlike Dom or Cristal, it does not carry a vintage date, a feature that U.S. consumers associate with quality. The current cuvee of Laurent Perrier “Grand Siecle” ($79.99) that we offer is even better than one vintage. It is a blend of three very good vintages: 1993, 1995 and 1996. This is the 17th Grand Siecle that LP has released. The first came out in 1960 with a blend of 1952, 1953 and 1955.
Another hurdle the Grand Siecle faces in the U.S. is the name; it is hard to pronounce. It sounds to me like “Grand See Eck” when a native speaker says it quickly. We sometimes call it the Sun King here at K&L, since the name is inspired by the prosperous period of time when Louis XIV ruled France. Name aside, it is what is inside that counts, and this Champagne is made entirely out of Grand Cru fruit, the best that they can purchase and less than 10% of their entire production. It is half chardonnay and half pinot noir.
The Grand Siecle has glorious detail and complexity on the bouquet. In the mouth, the bead is ultra fine; it is hard to imagine smaller bubbles. The flavors are polished and fresh but still fully developed, a testament to the precise blending of the three great vintages. I have found this wine to be more elegant than Dom Perignon and more complex than Cristal. I hope that you will try it this holiday!
We also have a limited quantity of the tiny production 1997 Grand Siecle Cuvee Alexandra Brut Rosé ($99.99) . From the masters of rosé, this is incomparable! It is composed exclusively from Grand Cru fruit, 80% pinot and 20% chardonnay. It has a gorgeous pink hue, and fine, delicate Pinot Noir fruit. It is very long and refined on the finish.
Drop me an email at garywestby@klwines.com and say “add me to your list” to be the first to know about offerings and news. Or contact me at 1-800-247-5987 ex 2728. A toast to you! —Gary Westby

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Steve Bird’s debut, the 2006 Bird “Old Schoolhouse” Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand ($13.99) is a winner. The nose has notes of grapefruit, passion fruit and some minerality. On the palate there is good acidity with tropical fruits and good body and length.
Some of you may remember the Blue Rock and Frasier vineyard Pinots we carried last year from Murdoch James. The 2004 Murdoch James Pinot Noir Martinborough New Zealand ($17.99) is the first release of their “regular” wine. In 2004 they made no Frasier, so it went into this wine along with fruit from four other vineyards. The bouquet offers pretty plum, cherry fruit with a bit of clove, mushroom and a note of forest floor. On the palate there are silky tannins and integrated oak that add a hint of mocha to the fine finish.
Both Clyde and I tasted the 2004 Craneford Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia ($9.99) from barrel in January and thought it to be a tremendous value. The wine sees neutral French and American oak that seasons the pure fruit. There are aromas of violets, black current, dark cherry and a mineral note. These elements come together on the palate with soft tannins and a touch of bittersweet chocolate that follow through with fine length. —Jimmy C

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This Thanksgiving I am advocating a rather unusual food and wine pairing. Actually, my colleague Brian Brick in our Redwood City store is completely responsible for enlightening me to this wonderful combo. He is definitely the one you are going to want to thank after pouring youself a chilled glass of the NV Clairette de Die Cave Carod ($12.99) to enjoy with your slice of pumpkin pie! Brian contends that the delicate, sparkling sweetness (redolent with nectarine, white flowers and ginger) pairs sublimely with the earthy, spicy sweetness of pumpkin pie. Enough said, sign me up! For those of you asking “Clairette de who..?” here is a bit of background on this fantastic little northern Rhone sparkler. The A.O.C. Clairette de Die spreads over 1,300 hectares and 32 villages, located on clay and limestone based hillsides. Clairette de Die has been known since ancient times (dating back to 77 A.D.). The Carod’s vineyard’s altitude (over 700 meters) makes it one of the highest in France. With very fine bubbles, light in alcohol (8°) and still containing a touch of residual sugar, this Clairette de Die from Cave Carod is comprised of 75% muscat petits grains and 25% clairette and is produced by the method champenoise. Clairette brings delicacy and lightness to the wine whereas muscat gives its typical sweetness. This is an ideal wine for many fruit- or spice-based desserts, as well as with foie gras. To be consumed young, to conserve the full fruity and floral flavors. Happy Thanksgiving to all! —Mulan Chan

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We have had an unbelievable string of luck with these wines over the past few vintages, and I have come to look forward to what each new vintage has to offer, especially this year’s 2005s. Each year my appreciation for the efforts Pascal and Mireille Renaud grow. This young couple manages their small Domain, only 12 hectares, with vines growing in the Macon, Pouilly-Fuisse, and St. Veran. Within their new cuverie, built about five years ago, they work predominately with stainless steel and large German foudres. This is done to maintain brightness and freshness of the fruit and the purity in the expression of the terroir. I think they have achieved this, once more with these terrific 2005s. These are wines that exceed expectation, bright lifted aromatics, fresh and driving acidity that balances ripe and round fruit.
2005 Domaine Renaud, Mâcon Charnay ($11.99)
The wines from Mâcon Charnay typically have a soft floral nuance; I think it is the higher concentration of granite in the soils. This wine perfectly expresses this terroir! Behind ripe orchard fruit on the nose is the tell-tale floral character. The palate is moderately round with delicious ripe orchard fruits and just a hint of cream. It possesses plenty of charm, and is capable of winning over die-hard burgundy fans as well as adventurous California Chardonnay drinkers.
The 2005 Domaine Renaud, Mâcon Solutré ($11.99)
This wine hails from the higher hillside vineyards under the monolith Solutré. These vineyards tend to be steeper, have better drainage, experience cooler evenings and most importantly tend to have more limestone and chalk in the soil. As you would expect, this is a wine with more focus and cut and a pronounced mineral vein. The ripe apple and pear fruits elegantly balance the minerality on the palate and it possesses remarkable length. This is a terrific Burgundy
bargain —Kirk Walker

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On a recent trip to Burgundy I had the chance to taste the wines of Domaine Jean Monnier. Winegrowers since 1720, this family makes both reds and whites. The change of generations has led to an improvement in their wines, but the world has not yet beaten a path to their door. We are pleased to be able to bring them to you directly, at most favorable prices.
The 2003 Bourgogne Aligoté ($10.99) is spicy and bright with rich fruit from the warm vintage and lovely acidity. The 2004 Meursault Chevalières ($29.99) is long, elegant and balanced, with pronounced Meursault minerality. The 2004 Meursault Clos du Cromin ($29.99) comes from near the Volnay border, and shows lime notes and a softer character than the Chevalières. We also have imported two premier Crus, from two of the top vineyards in Meursault, the 2004 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes ($41.99) with rich round fruit and lots of charm and weight, as well as the 2004 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres ($41.99) , which has a more vibrant focus and more prominent minerality, as it comes from the desirable upper portion of this vineyard.
Finally, we were lucky enough to get a wonderful red, the 1999 Pommard 1er Cru Clos de Citeaux ($41.99) . It is from a 15-acre family-owned monopole vineyard located in Grands Epenots, adjacent to the famed Comte Armand Clos des Epineaux. It was an ancient holding of the Monks of the Abbey of Citeaux, since 1207. Chosen for a walled vineyard in 1200, and in continuous cultivation for about 800 years, this is a special place. The wine has length, elegance, pretty cherry notes and comes from a great vintage. And it sells for a song, thanks to our direct import. Don’t miss it!
Á Sante! —Keith Wollenberg

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In 1967 the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino was formed by a small band of producers. The Consorzio guided producers in marketing, production and the legal requirements in a region that was not the leading edge of wine in Italy or anywhere else, for sure. Amongst the first group of producers hardly any even had a label, so the Consorzio made a label showing the building in which the Consorzio is housed in “downtown” Montalcino, and many of the wineries inserted their name. Today there are 204 members and about 10% of those don’t bottle their wines. Instead, these 28 or so wineries sell their grapes. Two of these are now directly imported by K&L: Baricci “Colombaio di Montosoli” and Podere La Fortuna.
Nello Baricci’s small parcel of land sits on a hill called Montosoli and is one of Montalcino’s most prized and renowned vineyards. Nello is a man of the earth, his body shows the years of effort spent working his estate yet when you look in his eyes it is like gazing into a moonless night sky with thousands of stars shining towards you. There is something magical about this humble man. Mike P and I visited the estate, tasted through the different botte (wooden tanks). One after another, Brunello and Rosso, all left the same signature of Montosoli on our palates. It starts out as a mixture of black cherry, soft leather, plum, cinnamon and earth and weaves these flavors together changing textures as the wine airs. While drinking the 2001 Baricci Brunello di Montalcino ($34.99) at dinner with his family, I asked if we could taste something older. I was thinking the 1998 or 1996. Nello’s son Graziano took off for the cellar returning with the 1985, perhaps the greatest vintage in 30 years. The wine had an uncanny resemblance to the 2001. The genesis of both years started with harsh cold snaps. Nello said the 1985 tasted the same way when it was young. Stock up with the 2001; it will reward your efforts.
Gioberto Zannoni’s 2001 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino ($36.99) (1.5L $66.99) has just been awarded Gambero Rosso’s 3 Glass Award as one of Italy’s top wines of the year! We’ve long believed in the quality at this winery and thought that their unique blend of ripe plumy fruit accented with hints of earth, spice and mineral would be an instant hit here in America. The supple textures that Gioberto’s wines have allow the wine’s powerful structure to blend in and not dominate on your palate. La Fortuna is situated on the eastern slope of Montalcino, bordered by Fuligni and Siro Pacenti, a couple of super famous names in Montalcino. The 1999 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ($44.99) , 92 points Wine Spectator, is a glorious wine capable of aging another 10-20 years showing the impeccable balance of this astonishing vintage.
The 2004 vintage is fantastic, and the wines are sensational! Try the 2004 Baricci Rosso di Montalcino ($18.99) or the 2004 La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino ($17.99) and see the quality now!
—Greg St. Clair

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And now, for something completely different for your Thanksgiving holidays. On March 1 Greg and I were in the Emilia Romagna, looking to find a Lambrusco producer to bring in for K&L. We found one, and this winery ROCKS!
Ca Berti Grasparossa di Castelvetro “Tipico” Dry ($8.99) 85% lambrusco grasparossa and 15% fortana. On the palate you will find cherry cola and wild berries and plums. Dry and light on the alcohol, good acid and low tannins. Buy two bottles as it will go fast.
Ca Berti Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro “Classico” semi-dry ($8.99) This wine starts off a little sweeter. Fragrant and fruity, richer and fuller on the palate, which brings you blackberries and maraschino cherries, wonderful effervescent with a long and dry finish. Trust me, cheese tortellini and this go so well together!
Ca Berti Grasparossa di Castelvetro “Robusco” semi-dry ($10.99) Jim Barr gave this 8 tail wags! The purple froth on this is really amazing to watch rise in your glass. A little more intense perfume on the nose, and the palate has more spice. Black cherries, red currants and a hint of dustiness add to its complexity. Prefect with the antipasti!!
Ca Berti Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro “Amabile” sweet ($8.99) Last but not least, I give this three stars! Cherry vanilla cola, blackberries and a touch of cassis. This is not a cloyingly sweet, but is wonderfully dolce. Try this wine as an alterative to port or sauternes with dessert. Salute! —Mike Parres

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The official menu is in!

Reception:

Passed Hors d’-

Franck Bonville Cuvee Belles Voyes Champagne

First Course:

Agnolotti with Pecorino Toscano and Sage

1999 Almaviva

Second Course:

Seared Sonoma Duck Breast with Cumin Scented Carrots and Pomegranate Glaze

(1) 2000 Almaviva

(2) 2001 Almaviva

Third Course:

Grilled Cote de Beouf with Braised Celery Root and Sauce “Bordelaise”

(3) 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

(4) 1986 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Fourth Course:

Roblechon and Comte

(5) 2004 Almaviva

Fifth Course:

Glazed Fuji Apple Tart with Caramel-Vanilla Swirled Ice Cream

1990 Chateau Coutet, Sauternes

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Over the last year I have conducted or attended a dozen or so tastings of 2003 Bordeaux, and from where I stand there is no question that this is an outstanding and user-friendly vintage. As these wines evolve and become more complete they exhibit added complexity and nuance to complement their lush fruity personalities.
2003 Nenin, Pomerol ($36.99) The wine making team from Léoville-Las-Cases produced one of the stars of Pomerol in 2003. This is crisp and structured for the vintage with black cherry and dark berries. Silky, ripe and elegant with beautiful length.
2003 La Couspaude, St-Emilion ($39.99) This full bodied, flashy wine is finally settling down, absorbing its lavish oak treatment and showing tons of personality. The cherry and strawberry aromas are flowery and surprisingly delicate for such a rich body. Earthy, dense and fleshy, this is super fruity, charming and very easy to drink.
2003 Clos Marsalette, Pesac-Léognan ($418.99) Only 1200 cases of Stephan Von Neipperg’s newest endeavor were produced. This is a soft, approachable bargain showing tobacco, spice notes and gobs of plush, dark fruit. Value priced and ready to drink!
Hauts de Pontet, Pauillac ($21.99) Located across the street from Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet Canet has been on a roll, and their 2nd wine is always one of the great bargains in Bordeaux. Lots of classic Pauillac character here with hints of iron, mineral and dark currants. The deep, fruity mid-palate leads to a long, firm finish showing very fine tannin. 90 points from the Wine Spectator and a fantastic value.
2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac ($45.99) This very consistent château seems to fly under the radar even while they produce great wines vintage after vintage. Lovers of Lynch Bages will love this big, muscular classic for its firm structure, sweet black fruit and hints of licorice, pencil lead and its long, complex finish. This is anything but your typical 2003 fruit bomb! 92 points from the Wine Spectator. —Steve Bearden

Posted by Elisabeth Schriber at 11:37 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)