This month we have some new releases from some of my favorite producers. The production on all three of these wines is limited, but they should be available for a couple of months.
2004 Storybook Mountain “Mayacamas Range” Napa Zinfandel ($27.95) This is another winner from Jerry Seps. The 2004 shows more mineral and floral-ness than the previous vintage. The wine has bright concentration and complexity with great balance. This is what Zinfandel should be. Even at 15.2% alcohol, this wine is perfectly balanced. 92 points from Parker.
2004 Joseph Swan “Cuvee de Trois” Russian River Pinot Noir ($22.99) The cuvee is back! Joseph Swan skipped the 2003 vintage because they didn’t believe the wine was where it should be. The 2004 is spot on. This small production wine is made by one of our states’ most consistent and experienced hands at Pinot Noir, Rod Berglund. The wine comes from three vineyards, including Saralee’s and the young vines on the Swan estate. It is aged in French oak, only 1/3 of which is new.
2004 Porter Creek “Fiona Hill” Russian River Pinot Noir ($29.99) The new vintage of the Fiona Hill continues a great run of Pinot Noirs from this boutique producer. Light, bright and balanced. This is a pinotphile’s dream. This meticulously planted hillside vineyard is situated on a southern face with an average of 20% grade, but climbs up to a 40% grade. The vine rows are planted in a special orientation running southwest to northeast, resulting in a constant gentile sun exposure which evenly and thoroughly ripens grape clusters. Fiona Hill is located along Westside Road at the entrance to Porter Creek. See you in the City... —Michael Jordan

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2004 St-Joseph Les Vins de Vienne “l’Arzelle” ($22.99) Bright, black cherry-matics, lavender and sweet tobacco endow this with lots of class and immediate accessibility. The wine’s name is a reference to the highly unusual and diverse terroir of Saint-Joseph. With its Massif Central origins, the granite breaks up easily as it wears over time. This decomposed granite is known locally as l’Arzelle. Enjoy from now-2010.
2004 Hermitage Les Vins de Vienne “Les Chirats de Saint Christophe” ($49.99) This 100% syrah is aged for 18 months in 60% new oak. Although more plush in style than other wines from Hermitage, Les Chirats still maintains a gorgeous mineral back note and excellent acidity to boot. Black fruits, and bittersweet chocolate, are balance with subtle notes of smoke and espresso nib. Best from 2008-2014.
2004 Cote-Rotie Joel Champet “La Viallière” ($34.99) Joel Champet employs all the traditional wine-making processes. The grapes are never destemmed and they are fermented and macerated for three weeks in open concrete vats. The wine is aged in cask and foudre for 15-18 months, and then is bottled without filtration. In the mouth this wine executes elegance, exudes profuse aromatics, and has been said, vintage after vintage, to be the most Burgundian of all Cote-Roties. There is the feathery essence of earth, melding with a subtle element of spicy cherry fruit. This is refined, sophisticated, and dare I say, delicate.
—Keelyn Healy and Mulan Chan

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Life is a constant state of change. Throughout the history of farming, grape growers have discovered which varieties grew best in their individual regions, and developed new ways to handle vines, often resulting in better wine. This process of discovery and development followed a pretty natural curve for quite a while, but World Wars I & II changed the nature of farming in a radical way. It’s a bit redundant to point out how drastically both the World Wars changed the way we live, but it’s worthwhile to mention that the advent of DDT (used to kill mosquitoes, a vector for malaria) and Ammonium Nitrate (a cheap source of nitrogen used for munitions) ushered in an era of dependence on chemical pesticides and fertilizers that altered agriculture radically. Organic farming has risen as a counter to the post war state of agriculture. As the effects of these chemicals on the environment began to surface, a belief spread that the farming methods employed before the wars might not only be better for the environment, but also create better produce. With wine, a lot of the early adopters of natural farming and vinification methods were in Beaujolais. Producers in the region have been experimenting with organic farming, non-interventionist wine making, and traditional forms of plant selection since the ’60s. K&L imports wine from two producers who fit this bill: the 2005 Domaine Milleranche Julienas ($11.99) comes from organic vineyards, and the 2005 Domaine des Gandelins Moulin à Vent ($13.99) is made from fruit from 70-year-old vines, grown sustainably. Both wines are hand harvested and fermented with wild yeast. These pure expressive wines are not only vibrant with fruit and spice, they speak of where they come from. —Paul Courtright

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Spain has a history of producing very singular wines that speak uniquely of their provenance. Rioja is one of the benchmarks for traditional Spanish wine, or perhaps it’s necessary to say “was” since many producers have turned to making modern wines that taste like they could come from anywhere in the world. An example of that phenomenon is Bodegas Muga. Isaac Muga started the winery in 1932, making wines that were a benchmark of quality and tradition in Rioja. In recent years, younger generations of the Muga family have taken over, and to my taste there is a noticeable shift towards fruit-driven wines. The holdout in their line-up is the 1998 Muga Gran Reserva, Prado Enea ($46.99). The wine is fruitier than most Gran Reservas, but there’s a nice core of cinnamon and nutmeg. Ironic that a small, family-owned winery changed their style, when a larger winery, owned by the huge corporation, Pernod/Ricard, is still making traditionally styled wines. The 1999 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva Rioja ($17.99) is a reference to classic Rioja. There’s no mistaking where this wine comes from. The perfume of American oak, which lends a nutty quality to the wine, is balanced with tightly wound tart cherry flavors. It’s still a baby, and I suspect that an open bottle will taste best on the third or fourth day. The last great bastion of super traditional Rioja is Lopez de Heredia. Not only do they hold their reds for extended age, but they apply the same regime to their whites and rosé. The 1995 Lopez de Heredia “Vina Gravonia,” Crianza ($22.99) is a nutty and rich white. The extended barrel ageing gives the wine an almost sherry-like character, without the fire. It’s a must for anyone looking for traditional wines. —Paul Courtright

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Rarely do people reflect on Spain’s Denominaciones de Origen, a.k.a. d.o.s. Of the 70+ official regions Rioja is the most famous in Spain. King Sancho of Navarra recognized the greatness of Rioja wines back in the 1100s, but it wasn’t until 1902, by royal decree, that the “origin” of Rioja was defined. The region lies in the Ebro River Valley and spans across three autonomous regions, the Basque Country, La Rioja and Navarra. Rioja is divided into three sub-regions, Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. Finally, there are three soil types for the area…alluvial, ferrous clay, and chalky clay.
Dominated by red wine, some 85% of the production, there are some fantastic white made in Rioja, too. Regardless of red or white, the vast majority of Riojas wines are blended. The grapes used in red wine production are tempranillo, graciano, garnacha and mazuelo with viura, malvasia and garnacha blanca for the whites. Some wineries now make “Super Riojas” that are 100% tempranillo aged in French oak, but the blended reds with varying degrees of oak aging are the bread and butter of La Rioja. Here are a couple of wines that I love!
2003 Campo Viejo Crianza Rioja ($8.99) Made from a blend of 75% tempranillo, 20% granacha and 5% mazuelo and aged for about 18 months in a combination of barrel and bottle, this round Rioja red is perfect for a pork roast with oven roasted potatoes.
2004 Artadi, Viñas de Gaín, Rioja ($22.99) The Artadi is a fantastic modern Rioja from the Alavesa. Made from 100% tempranillo and aged in French oak, this big red is great with grilled lamb leg.
1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 ($51.99) Yes, folks, this is the current release! A big daddy of traditional Rioja, the 904 is all elegance and class. Show off this wine with fancy a rack of lamb.
Buen Provecho! —Anne Pickett, anne@klwines.com

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It was just a couple of years ago when François Chidaine was considered to be one of the winemakers to “keep an eye on” in the Loire. This was based on his excellent vineyard holdings in Montlouis, an appellation, planted with chenin blanc, that is on the rise just across the river from famed Vouvray, and his commitment to biodynamic farming and his non-intervention winemaking style. Today he is considered to be one of the great winemakers in the Loire. The wines often ferment very slowly, sometimes taking all winter, in Chidaine’s cold limestone cellars, and this makes for a complexity in the wines that is unattainable through faster fermentations. Slow fermentations also allow the winemaker to postpone adding sulfur due to the continual, anti-oxidant blanket of CO2 produced, which in turn lowers the total amount needed in the final wine. Within just a few months of bottling Chidaine now sells out every bottle he makes!
The NV Francois Chidaine Montlouis Brut ($16.99) is a lovely little sparkler composed of 100% chenin blanc vines that are 20-50 years old. Shows great minerality, which is to be expected, and the fantastic, classic chenin texture, which is brought to even more life with a beautiful bead of mouth-watering bubbles. There is absolutely no reason why the 2005 François Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Clos du Breuil ($18.99) is under $20, but I’m sure glad it is. Imagine the creaminess of ripe pears and the crunchy freshness of a green apples held together with lanolin and honey, coated by a vibrant jacket of minerals and the zippy acidity of citrus fruit. If I only had more room to talk about the 2005 François Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Les Bournais ($24.99)! A must try! —Eric Story

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Later this month we will be having one of our first evening tastings in our hopefully finished, much larger tasting room in Redwood City. Sadly as I write this in early January I don’t have the date nailed down, but here is what I can tell you: The tasting will feature two growers at the top of their games one Mr. Willi Bründlmayer of Weingut Bründlmayer in Langenlois roundly considered the top estate in Austria and Mr. Johannes Leitz of Weingut Josef Leitz in Rüdesheim, my vote for the top estate in the Rheingau and an all around great guy.
We will highlight the 2005 vintage and show a wide range from each producer but throw in some older bottles as well for good measure. The boys are in town for the Masters of Food and Wine at the Highlands Inn in Carmel February 22-25, where they will be doing a couple of events. Therefore, the tasting will be either right before or after that. You will need to purchase tickets in advance, and it will cost you a few bucks, but nothing like going to the Carmel events, and you won’t have to wear a tie!
We are also trying to put together a little wine dinner after the tasting featuring their wines and Thai food at Bangkok Bay Thai Restaurant down the street in Redwood City, a great opportunity to see these most versatile wines at work with food. The best way to proceed if you are interested is to check the website or drop me an email at jeffvierra@ klwines.com. I can also put you on my personal list to periodically receive updates on exciting new wines, information about tastings and events and hot deals from Germany and Austria. Hope to see you there…Live in the light. —Jeff Vierra

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I always get a kick when I read quotes from wine professionals who say how out of fashion Chardonnay is. It is true that Rieslings and other white varietals have become more popular than ever before but Chardonnay still out sells them all 10 to 1. If Cabernet is King than Chardonnay is Queen! Here are a few of my current favorites:
2005 Silverado Napa Chardonnay ($14.98) Excellent richness, depth of fruit and balance between toasty vanilla oak and acidity, lead the palate to a clean, bright finish. Rich and full upfront but still refreshing. Great with seafood!
2004 Marimar Torres Estate “Don Miguel Vineyard” Chardonnay ($19.99) This Russian River vineyard is roughly 30 acres planted with three different clones. The wine goes through 100% malolactic fermentation and is then aged on its lees for nine months. This was bottled in June 2004 and was held for two years. This allows the wine to fill out in the mid-palate and helps soften the acidity, which is naturally high in grapes from this vineyard. Delicious!
2004 Trefethen Oak Knoll District Chardonnay ($21.99) One of our favorites from Napa! The marine influence which is strong in Oak Knoll gives cooler than average temperatures and higher humidity than most of the rest of Napa Valley. The wine is lively, racy and fresh, with hints of almonds, pears and pineapple.
2005 Frank Family Napa Chardonnay ($28.99) Aromas of a freshly baked apple pie, old fashioned vanilla cream soda, and roasted almonds. Finely textured, fleshy and smooth on the palate this wine has seamlessly integrated toasty oak and concentrated fruit flavors leading to a long elegant finish. —Trey Beffa

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I suspect that the Cotes du Luberon has been a memorable pit stop for many travelers who’ve ever visited Provence. Located one hour south of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Cotes du Luberon is for purposes of vinous administration linked to the Rhone. However culturally it is 100% Provence. Along with breathtaking scenery and quaint little towns, the Cotes du Luberon is also home to Château La Canorgue. This beautiful property’s 30 hectares of isolated vineyards are completely organic, and winemaking proceeds with minimal oak or human intervention. The resulting wines are pure, delicious and completely unpretentious.
2005 Côtes du Lubéron Blanc Château La Canorgue (Biodynamic) ($13.99) This exuberant and vibrant white exhibits beautiful nuances of white peach, Meyer lemon and creamy pear. Juicy, forward fruit coupled with plenty of balancing acid make this Provencal white clean and polished. It will excel as a fine everyday sipper, or will pair very appropriately with a variety of Mediterranean-based entrees.
2004 Cotes du Lubéron Rouge Château La Canorgue (Biodynamic) ($13.99) A blend of 30% grenache and 70% syrah, this unfiltered beauty sings of Provence. The nose is full of pepper, anis, leather and dark berries with just a hint of the wild herbs (thyme, rosemary and savory) that grow abundantly around the vineyards. Try this Provencal red with pastas, grilled lamb, hearty stews and just about anything else that screams for a big, bold red wine that has plenty of finesse. —Mulan Chan

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February is a very special month, in that Anderson turns five on February 14, Valentine’s Day. He has very high expectations, as most Brittanys do, from all of you. He expects lots of treats to be sent his way. After all, he has recommended some outstanding wines to you!
As I am writing this (December 31), Greg St.Clair and Mike Parres (aka Guido) are on one of their many buying trips to Italy and always seem to come back with some exciting new discoveries. Several years ago they found a small producer (Ermacora) from the Friuli region of Northern Italy. Owned by two brothers, Ermacora’s wines seem to be improving with each vintage. The newly arrived 2005s are remarkable, displaying wonderful character and brightness of fruit. The 2005 Ermacora Pinot Grigio ($14.99) displays an opulent sense of tropical fruit, pears and Chilean jasmine notes in its vibrant aromatics and its fresh, lush mouthfeel. This puppy is elegant, impeccably structured, and has a long, mouthwatering finish. The 2005 Ermacora Pinot Bianco ($14.99) is the flagship wine of all their whites. This is a broadly rich, concentrated wine that shows orange-peel and apple aromatics and flavors with hints of custard and vanilla. With its incredible structure and balance and a viscous, long finish, this is an amazing Pinot Bianco. Both of the above wines received 2* Red Glasses in Gambero Rosso last year, and Vanilla has informed me that these will be our house whites for the month of February.
The 2005 European vintage is proving be one of the finest ever, and, as with the two Italian beauties above, the whites that have arrived thus far are stunning. The 2005 Château Saint Jean des Graves, Graves Blanc ($11.99) is a perfect example of this assertion and is one of the finest sauvignons ever from this property. Blended with a bit of semillon (10%), it is reminiscent of ripe grapefruit with a touch of clove and fine minerality of wet stone. The lush quality of ’05 shows through on the mid-palate and into its long, complete finish. Eby says this will be our other house white for the month.
Another import that has developed an almost cult following are the wines from Rhone Valley producer, Domaine la Soumade. The 2003 Soumade Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays de la Principaute d’Orange ($13.99), which cannot be labeled as Rasteau because cabernet is not suppose to be grown in the region, landed two months ago and has recovered nicely from its travel. The aromatics are of black fruits and cassis with hints of spice. In the mouth, this gem is silky, broad, deeply flavored and fruit forward. A lovely, uncomplicated finish makes for great drinking with lamb or a fillet. Anderson has told me that this is one of our house reds for the month.
When we bring in and rave about a wine such as the 2001 Château Franc Perat Premiere Cotes de Bordeaux ($7.99) it is time to react. Deep ruby in color, the nose offers tons of straightforward fruit of a plum to blackberry nature. On the palate, the wine is soft, round yet fleshy and rich. This is a wine that is produced for near-term consumption and will be one our house reds until it sells out according to Anderson. Enjoy this month’s gems and welcome to 2007. —Jim, Anderson, Eby and Vanilla

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Dear Godmother,
I am writing to thank you for the special gift you sent me over the holidays. This gesture was very thoughtful of you, but quite unexpected as I have never heard from you until now. Heck, that’s o.k. I’m only 48 and plan to live awhile longer, so it’s not like there was any rush or anything.
The lovely box of chocolates was very generous. Although I am allergic to chocolate, I thought 'what the heck, my very own Godmother would never harm me, so I ate a few pieces. Please forgive the hospital stationary I am writing on. I hadn't time to pack.
In no way are you to blame for my present condition. Chocolate just makes me feel funny, so I robbed a bank in the hopes of paying for the psychoanalysis that I need to deal with the lack of a maternal Godparent. Three shrinks and shock therapy costs a lot of money, wow.
But that’s my weakness, and I apologize.
Anyway, I needed a car to get away from the bank, so I pushed an old lady out of her Lexus (gently, I might add) but she was kind of brittle and it was a mistake on my part but I hear hip operations are pretty routine now. I told her I was sorry and that I had no experience with that maternal presence that gives one a little something extra in dealing with life’s ups and downs. No reflection on you, of course. You have a life to live; why should I expect a call or a letter?
So I’m driving the car at a breakneck speed, and wouldn’t you know it I hit a deer. I didn’t mind so much as I never developed an affinity for animals. When the other kids were going to the petting zoo or to Bambi with their Godmothers and such, I was pulling the wings off of moths. “Idle hands” and all that, you know?
I’m in the wine business now Godmother. I sell lots of cool wine like gigantic bottles of Beaulieu Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet. The ’87 (6L, $899.00) is really delicious, one of the best they ever made. We have the 2000 Beaulieu Vineyards Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon (3L $99.95) and the 1986 Sterling Cabernet 1.5L, a real good deal for $49.95. I like the 3L B.V. the best. It’s so lush and drinkable. I try to keep it to one of those a day.
So anyway, I’m driving the getaway car, and the darn seat cushion spring pops out and cuts a gash in my leg. I swear, people are so lax with auto maintenance. Since the spring was rusty, my leg got infected, and they might have to amputate it. I don’t mention this for you to take pity on me. I’m sure you have a million things going on. Anyway, get well cards take up valuable paper resources, and lord knows my Godmother is good at saving trees!
I’m so silly sometimes, I tried to cook the deer meat on the carburetor of the getaway car (waste not, want not, as you would have taught me, had you known me) but I didn’t leave it on long enough and now I have mad deer disease. I’m a positive person so I think of stomach pumping as a cleansing kind of thing.
Thanks again for the chocolates, Godmother. As you can see, it was the gift that keeps on giving.

Your Godson Joey

(The true part of this story is that my Godmother really did not know that she was, indeed, my Godmother! Pat, please take this as a spoof. We’ll laugh about it, when we finally meet…)

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This month, I have two perfect Champagnes to celebrate Valentine’s Day. The NV Laurent-Perrier Brut ($27.99) is THE perfect wine to start an evening. A blend of 45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 15% pinot meunier, it opens with a citrus nose of ginger and minerals. In the mouth, a toasty style that is never heavy but retains the delicacy of the nose. Flavors of lime, pear and lightly toasted nuts. LP uses 10-20% of their reserve stock in this sparkler and a very light dosage (12 grams per liter). It is also aged for three months on the lees and is cellared for three months prior to shipping. It is no wonder that both the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker gave this Champagne 90 points!
The NV Fleury Brut Rosé ($34.99) is 100% pinot noir and 125% delicious! Fleury is located in Couteron, which is very close to Burgundy. The influence of that region carries over into the style of winemaking at Fleury, which is often referred to as Burgundian. This offers a fantastic nose of strawberries, red currants and orange peel. On the palate, the strawberry fruit carries over to be joined by tart raspberries, a touch of cranberry and nougat flavors. All of the fruit is from the 1999 vintage. What makes the Fleury Rosé stand out the most of all is its unusual texture. It is a concentrated rosé that is rich and flavorful yet delicate and complex. This domaine has been completely bio-dynamic since 1989. This is the perfect rosé to enjoy by itself on Valentine’s Day with the one that you love. —Scott Beckerley

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Once every two months, members of our new Champagne Club will receive two bottles of great Champagne for $69.95 a shipment. Usually members will receive one bottle from a big house (like Laurent Perrier, for example) and one direct import gem from a small producer. Like our other Clubs we will use our bulk purchasing power and secret prices (often times producers don’t want their wines selling for a low retail, but a club is different!), so you can be sure that you will be getting a fantastic deal. Even more importantly, you will be getting the best quality in Champagne! Also like our other Clubs, members will be able to reorder bottles at a discount. Depending on the pace of enrolment we will either start the Club shipments in April or June.
To tide your sweetheart over until then, I suggest a bottle of De Meric Grande Reserve Sous Bois Brut Champagne ($27.99) to drink on Valentines night. Order it at the same time you are signing up for the Club. It is a big, romantic style of Champagne composed of 80% pinot noir from Ay, Mareuil-Sur-Ay and Mutigny, 15% chardonnay from Cramant, Avize and Oger and 5% meunier from Cumieres. It is vinified half in old oak barrels and half in stainless steel tanks for the perfect balance of rounded richness and zesty refreshment. Please feel free to contact me,(garywestby@klwines.com 877-559-4637 ex 2728) or Thornton Jacobs, Wine Clubs Director, (thorntonjacobs@klwines .com 877-559-4697 ex 2766) if you have any questions.
One more thing: Do you like caviar? We are having a special caviar and Champagne event just before Valentines Day… Drop me a line if you are interested in learning more! A toast to you! —Gary Westby

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2005 Milton Park Shiraz Barossa Valley South Australia ($6.99) 90 points Parker. This is a beautiful wine, with blackberry, licorice, dark cherry and a hint of oak. Full bodied with good texture.
2005 Thorn Clarke “Terra Barossa" Shiraz Barossa Valley South Australia ($9.99) 91 points Parker, who writes: “Another unreal bargain with amazing QPR.” Inky purple with blackberry liqueur, camphor, grilled meat and toasty oak.
2005 Thorn Clarke “Terra Barossa” Cuvee Barossa Valley South Australia ($9.99) The 2004 got 90 points, and while not yet rated, the greatness of the 2005 vintage will no doubt shine in this blend that includes shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and petite verdot.
2005 Thorn Clarke “Shotfire Ridge” Shiraz Barossa Valley South Australia ($13.99) 92 points Parker. This is richer with black and blueberry fruit and chocolate notes woven seamlessly together.
2005 Thorn Clarke “Shotfire Ridge” Cuvee Barossa Valley ($13.99) This recently took the trophy for best blend and best wine at the Hobart Wine Show in Australia. A Bordeaux blend from Down Under.
2004 Thorn Clarke William Randell “Kabininge Vineyard” Shiraz Barossa Valley ($34.99) 92+ points Parker. This is a big boy with mint, blackberry, black cherry, licorice and bittersweet chocolate.
Cheers! —Jimmy C

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The 2004 vintage marked a return to classicism where once again the wines are balanced with good vibrant acidity, pretty aromatics and firm structure. It is a heartening thing when a producer captures the beauty of such a classic vintage as the Chaussy family of Mas de Boislauzon has. Their two traditional styled Châteauneuf-du-Papes avoid the heaviness that is all too often taken as the norm in the appellation. True to tradition, both wines are vinified with the stems on, aged in primarily old oak, and unfiltered. Both wines garnered 92-94 points by Parker to boot!
2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mas de Boislauzon ($24.99) A blend of 90% grenache and 10% mourvèdre, Mas de Boslauzon is a pure expression of Grenache from the northern border of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This charmer is redolent of pepper, spice and blackberry.
Peppercorns, licorice and a lovely minerality dominate the palate. Refreshingly buoyant, this wine maintains good acidity and finesse throughout. Approachable now, I would pop the cork and enjoy with a steak au poivre. However, for the patient, it will also benefit from a few more years of ageing.
2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mas de Boislauzon “Cuvée du Quet” ($49.99) A gorgeous nose of kirsch, violet and an underlying meatiness will draw you in to this beautifully complex and multi-layered Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The palate reveals nuances of bittersweet chocolate, brambly fruit, earth and leather. A fine, stony minerality lends to the overall structure. Still swathed in a firm cloak of tannins, this dark and dense beauty needs time to mature. —Nadia Dmytriw

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It always seems that there is something new to discover in Italian wines. These new wines are, however, rarely new, just small regional wines made from indigenous varietals that have been local favorites for years but are just now finding their way to international markets. For me, half of the fun of Italian wine is finding these treasures, the other half is drinking them!
2004 Da Capo Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato Majoli ($19.99) Ruche is the varietal. Grown in the Piedmont, this is unlike any of the “traditional” varietals found in the region. It is a charmer, dazzling red fruit aromatics that are literally peppered with spice. Round and juicy on its medium-bodied palate with moderate tannins and subtle earthiness, this wine has tremendous ease and grace.
2004 Mario Luccheti Lacrima di Morro ($12.99) Lacrima di Morro is the varietal. Hailing from the Marche, this is another red that will tickle your nasal passages! This could almost be the red cousin to Gewürztraminer! Chocked full of fruit: red fruits, berries, tropical and citrus notes as well as rose petal perfume! Medium bodied and dry on the palate with enough tannin to remind you that it is a red wine after all. Think of this as Italian cru Beaujolais!
2005 La Sibilla Campo Flegrei Piedirosso ($14.99) This is one of the many truly unique varieties from Campania, and it offer a delicious contrast to the region’s best known grape, Agliancio. This Naples native offers old-vine intensity. In addition to its being planted on its own rootstock, its sandy terroir has kept Phyloxera at bay! Savory red fruits with a subtle earthiness and minerality leap from the glass. On the palate it shows a gentleman’s restraint with uncommon depth! Showing red fruits, dusty, earthy minerality and fine tannins this wine lingers on the palate like the haunting images of Roman ruins. It is a real treat!
—Kirk Walker

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All tastings are from noon to 3 p.m. in San Francisco and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. in Redwood City and Hollywood. For further information about other special monthly tastings and dinners, please see our website at www.klwines.com and click on the “local events” bar. Tasting prices to be determined.
Saturday, February 3: Special Rhone Valley Winemakers Tasting in San Francisco. Fete du Burgundy in Redwood City at Chantilly Restaurant. The San Francisco store hosts a tasting with winemakers/owners Rudolphe des Pins of Ch. Montfaucon, Cecile Chassagne of Le Camassot and Jean Bapiste Meunier of Moulin de Gardette in the San Francisco store. A very special event that is not to be missed. Keith Wollenberg presents a Burgundy Tasting in Redwood City. Representatives such as Nicholas Potel and Christian Moreau will be on hand to answer your questions about their wines. Tickets must be purchased in advance for this event.
Saturday, February 10: Annual Valentine’s Day Champagne Tasting in S.F. and R.C. Both stores host our 7th annual Valentine’s Day Champagne tasting. Gary, Scott and Paul pick the latest arrivals from Champagne to tempt your palate and to give you a head start on this very special holiday.
Saturday, February 17: Bordeaux in S.F., Hollywood and R.C. All three stores will host a Bordeaux tasting with picks from Clyde, Ralph, Chip, Steve and Bryan. The 2004s are coming in quickly, so now is the time to taste the new releases. One white, eight red and one Sauternes to be poured.
Saturday, February 24: Australian Wines in San Francisco. Italian wines in Redwood City and Hollywood. Paul hosts a tasting of wines from “down under” in S.F. He will focus upon Shiraz to chase the chill during those long winter nights. In Redwood City and Hollywood, Greg and Mike will host a tasting of Italy’s best. We welcome them back from their trip to Italy.
—Scott Beckerley, Jeff Garneau

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It’s February, and we are finally on track to welcome all of you Southern California folks in person at our new store, located in the heart of Hollywood, on Vine Street just off Sunset. It is exciting to finally be opening that store. So, to say Hooray for Hollywood, we have some special prices on Burgundies. These will go quickly, so our apologies if some have vanished by the time you get the newsletter.
The 2001 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange ($19.99), $38.99 elsewhere, has an interesting earthy note characteristic of reds from this village, known more for its whites. And it shows a pretty cherry character, along with an elegant finish. At about ½ the original cost, this is a bargain. The 2000 Savigny Les Beaune, Domaine Antonin Guyon ($14.99) was $26.99 elsewhere. This delightful, mature, somewhat earthy Savigny is a ridiculously good value for lovers of classic Burgundy. Roast a chicken, pop a cork, and you’ll be happy!
Finally, for you white Burgundy fans, we have the 2003 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Ramonet ($19.99). For those of you have never had the fresh, bright, classic flavors of this ancient Burgundian grape, this is a great chance to try one from a top domaine. Thanks to the warm growing season, this is a bit richer and nuttier than some vintages. Allen Meadows writes: “Very fresh and bright Aligoté aromas with the typical spice notes that complement the rich, dense, fat and sweet flavors. This is easy drinking and can be enjoyed immediately.” Á Sante! —Keith Wollenberg

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For those of you who read my column on a regular basis you’ll have noticed a series of name changes to it culminating in the latest “Sul Tappeto Rosso.” Why this change? I’ve moved to Los Angeles, a dramatic change for a San Francisco Bay Area native, and I have really loved the speed and diversity and sheer number of things to do here in L.A.! “Sul Tappeto Rosso” is “On the Red Carpet” in Italian, and being that our store is in Hollywood, what better way to manifest my move.
I’d like to explain a little about how we at K&L look at Italian wines. We travel to Italy two or three times a year visiting up-and-coming as well as storied producers. We import directly from thirteen wineries in Italy from well known, to unheard of but all with a tremendous quality-to-price ratio. In Tuscany we import many wineries, two in Chianti Classico: Rocca di Montegrossi and Poggiopiano, and six in Montalcino: Sesta di Sopra, Baricci, La Fortuna, Pian dell’Orino, Poggiarellino and Ferrero. All of these wineries focus on growing the best quality grapes their soil can produce with the least amount of winemaking possible, letting the grapes make their own statement. From Emilia Romagna we now import Ca’ Berti who produces Lambrusco. No, not that fizzy soda pop you remember from the ’70s this is real wine, yet with a bit of bubbles grown on hillside vineyards and harvested by hand! Our longest relationship has been with Ermacora, the brothers Dario and Luciano, whose much heralded white and red wines from Friuli offer some of the best wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli. Not far away in Isonzo another young Friulian winery, Blason, is making white and red wines with outstanding price-to-quality ratios snuggled up against the Slovenian border. They are one of our largest suppliers; we buy more than 30% of their production. Silvano Follador is one of most popular new imports. Everyone loves Prosecco, and this Prosecco is really something to crow about! At $10.99 there isn’t another Prosecco that can compare. Lastly in Piedmont, one of the region’s rising stars is Ruggeri Corsini. Nicola Argamante is a vineyard consultant for many of the big names in Barolo. His tiny estate in Monforte d’Alba is making superb wines, with classic expressions of the grape varietals.
All of our wineries produce excellent quality wines but many are from “newer” wineries that don’t often get the press that the more famous wines do. A lot of times this has more to do with understanding how to get your wine in front of some famous critic than whether your wine is good or not. Some critics don’t like to review wines that aren’t imported nationally to all markets or with small productions. Some of our wineries are so small you wouldn’t believe it; Poggiarellino produces a total of less than 500 cases a year! For those of you in Southern California, we’d love you to drop by our new Hollywood store and let us show you some of these wines!
—Greg St. Clair

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2005 Ermacora Tocai Friulano ($14.99) As most of you know these wines from past vintages let me just put it plain and simple: 2005 ROCKed in Friuli! The “Friulano” is medium to full bodied with ripe pear and red apple on the palate. On the finish I find a hint of almond balanced with crisp acidity. This will work well with ham or barley and bean soup.
2005 Ermacora Verduzzo Friulano ($15.99) 2 Glasses Gambero Rosso! This is a classic dessert wine without being cloyingly sweet. Baked apple and pear with a touch of apricot and honey and a candied orange peel mingle on the tongue with beautiful length. Try with mature cheeses or a big piece of cheesecake with your valentine.
2005 Ermacora Refosco ($15.99) This vine originated in Friuli and was the most important red variety in the region until merlot and cabernet entered the picture at the end of the 19th century. That said, this wine will remind you of a Graves, with great structure, showing cassis and black fruit, a little spice and gravel and tobacco on the finish. Enjoy with a big bowl of goulash.
2005 Ermacora Schioppettino ($16.99) The Ermacora Schioppettino is another indigenous Friulian variety and is one of our favorites. It tastes like a Pinot Noir with structure and spicy black pepper. This 2005 has a long middle focus that slowly unwinds across the palate. An extraordinary wine for the price. When serving this, think game or roast beef. —Mike Parres

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Let’s be honest, when you have 7,891 wine selections to choose from it can be a bit overwhelming. Everyone has their favorites from their area of expertise, and I surely have mine. So, let’s start with some thoughts on Bordeaux and then move around the wine world. Always remember, the duty of every wine is to taste good; and wine does not have to be outrageously expensive or highly rated to taste good.
One of the greatest quotes I heard last year was made by a supremely confident friend of ours, Anthony Barton, owner of Léoville and Langoa-Barton. “I hope my wine doesn’t get too many points! If it does, everyone will want it, the price will go sky high, and nobody will drink it!” Moral of this story, Barton is the wine you buy first in every Bordeaux vintage—a great wine and always reasonably priced.
The 2003 Bordeaux vintage is loaded with tasty wines, and a few really stand out, including the killer trio of second wines from the great 2nd growths: 2003 Clos du Marquis ($39.99) from Léoville-Las-Cases, 2003 Pagodes de Cos ($31.99) from Cos d’Estournel and 2003 Reserve de La Comtesse ($31.99) from Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. There is no question in my mind that the very best wine of greatness from 2003 for the money is the ancient estate of 2003 Malescot-St-Exupery ($48.99). This 3rd growth is the third best wine in the commune of Margaux today after Ch. Margaux and Ch. Palmer. Very rich and deep textured, regal, serious and supple at the same time. Outrageously good. 2003 Ch. Lynch Bages ($64.99) and 2003 Ch. Poujeaux ($27.99) are close behind for value, and the quality of wine made today at 5th growth 2003 Ch. Pontet Canet ($69.99) rivals or betters every famous wine in Bordeaux today! Buy these wines, and you will thank me later.
In my opinion, the 2003 vintage was the best ever from Lafon Rochet, Duhart-Milon, and Domaine de Chevalier. Don’t miss the 2005 Rosé de Chevalier ($10.99) my favorite pre-dinner appetizer wine along with the 2005 Domaine de Pepiere “Vielles Vignes” Clos de Briords Muscadet ($12.99) After a long drive south in April to Limoux, we sat in the dining room of winemaker Jean Louis Denios. Dead tired and very hungry, we went through his lineup of wines. When I tasted the 2000 Denios Chardonnay Sainte Marie ($14.99) and looked at the cost, my heart rate sky rocketed! Seriously, I had to control my emotions, I calmly looked up at Clyde and whispered “Buy everything he’s got of this, it’s incredible. I’ll sell it all, this taste like great Meursault!”
Also, the 2001 Brunellos are the real deal, and every well-rounded wine collection should have a cross section. Fine red wines and well priced.
And I can’t leave out the fat, lush and ultra-sweet 2003 Sauternes! Another fantastic vintage that flew under the radar of the monumental press generated by 2001; a little less acid and more creamy sweetness is the difference! Buy some for your sweety!
Please feel free to contact me anytime at ex 2723 or Ralph@klwines.com with any questions or advice on the wines of Bordeaux.
Cheers and Toujours Bordeaux! —Ralph Sands

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By the time you read this most of the 2003 vintage Bordeaux will have arrived and the 2004 will have begun hitting our shelves. The following four wines give a good snapshot of the affordable quality that can be found in these two very good but very different vintages.
2003 La Tour de Mons, Margaux ($19.99) Here is a well-made and crowd-pleasing value to buy by the case. This round, rich wine has beautiful flowery aromas that lead to a smooth middle of sweet berries and an elegant finish showing ripe, round tannins. Super easy to drink but with the structure to stand up to hearty food, this is not to be missed.
2003 de Francs “Les Cerisiers,” Cotes de Francs ($16.99) This gem from the unheralded appellation of Cotes de Franc is one of the best bargains in the store and always sells out quickly. Drinking far more seriously than the price would suggest, this has tons of deep, dark blackberry fruit in the substantial middle. The finish is smooth, rich and elegant with very fine tannin. 90 points from Wine Spectator.
2004 Gigault “Cuvee Viva,” Cotes de Blay ($15.99) The 2003 version of this amazing bargain flew off our shelves and the 2004 is every bit as good. This merlot-based wine is bright and smoky with lively dark currant aromas and gobs of round, dark, herb-tinged fruit in the plump middle. The finish is smooth, complex and spicy with just a touch of licorice.
2004 La Confession, St-Emilion ($24.99) This is only the 4th vintage of this sumptuous “garage wine” to be produced, and they make a mere 9000 bottles. Given the microscopic production and artisan quality here it’s hard to understand the low price—but hey, who’s complaining! This is deep purple, firm and tight at first, but with air opens up to reveal heady aromas of flowers and oak. With more aeration we get very sweet fruit, vanilla, allspice and subtle herb showing density, richness, power and elegance. This is an under-priced classic!
—Steve Bearden

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This month I present to you four of my favorite new values in K&L’s never ending vault of Bordeaux. The 1996 Château Lanessan, Haut-Médoc ($19.99) is a perfect example of Bordeaux that does not play the points game. This is what I imagine Bordeaux tasted like in the 19th century. More spice than fruit here. There is a bit of barnyard, true, but as a component of spice rather than a feature presentation. Add some tart red plum fruit to hold it all together and you have a great wine for beef stew.
The 2001 Château la Mission, Lalande de Pomerol ($19.99) is another rustic gem of a Bordeaux, a diamond in the rough perhaps? With its cedar, thyme and red currant nose this wine screams claret. Plum, boysenberry and a mushroom-like quality pack the mid palate, but where this wine really shines is the finish. Plenty of gravelly earth and an Alderwood smoke like spice are both persistent and lengthy. Drinkable now but could age well over the next 6-8 years.
In an opposite style, but every bit as enjoyable is the 2003 Hauts de Pontet-Canet, Pauillac ($21.99) . This is perfect for lovers of new world styled wines. Better than 99% of the domestic Cab based wines, this bottle will surely convert many to the values of Bordeaux. A bottomless pit of black cherry and pomegranate, this wine is creamy and coating, all the while being lively and fresh. In two words: absolutely delicious.
But the real show stopper of the month is the 2003 Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Legonan ($33.99) . This is pure Bordeaux through and through. From its herbaceous nose, to the pure silky texture, to a perfect acid/tannin balance this has it all. This could truly be the best value of the entire 2003 vintage, not only in Bordeaux but in all of France. This is wonderful now and will only continue to get better over the next 8-12 years. A must for any fan of wine, period.
—Bryan Brick

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Can you believe we started negotiating for this store in May 2005?? It has been a long time coming. Hopefully when you read this column, we will have opened this store. As of writing this (coincidently the first day of K&L’s 31st year), it looks like we have a good shot at opening around February 1!! The store looks beautiful, and there is plenty of parking available. The address is 1400 Vine Street, just a block or so south of Sunset Boulevard. Hope to see you there.
—Clyde Beffa Jr

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Join us March 6th in Hollywood for a Château Palmer dinner. Thomas Duroux will be there to host the dinner, which will include 2004 and 2001 Alter Ego as well as 2001, 1998, 1996
and 1995 Ch. Palmer.
More details on the way, including restuarant location and price. See www.klwines.com for additional information.

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The French Wine Society, in partnership with K&L Wine Merchants, invites you to its inaugural tasting event in San Francisco:

“FRENCH WINE AFFAIRE”

Sunday March 4th, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Fort Mason Center. Visit www.FrenchWineSociety.org for tickets.

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The K&L Wine Clubs are pleased to announce that we are forming a fourth Club dedicated exclusively to the finest Champagne. The Champagne Club will send you two bottles of incredible Champagne bi-monthly for only $69.95. Each shipment will usually (not always) combine one bottle from an artisanal grower producer and one bottle from a grand marque producer. We hope to begin shipping in the late spring or early summer. Call or email us (thornton@klwines.com) to reserve your place on the waiting list. We will keep you posted as this exciting opportunity progresses. We don’t have a name for this Club yet so send us your suggestion when you sign up! There will be a free year subscription if we use your name suggestion.
One of the great advantages of belonging to a K&L Wine Club is the breadth of the selections. In recent months, we have offered wines from California, France, Italy, Australia, Spain and Germany. Many of our customers have been members of winery wine clubs but dropped them after a while because it seemed to just be more of the same every month. You will never get that feeling with the K&L Wine Clubs because we provide a variety of wines that no other wine club can match. Let us surprise you every month with our amazing finds from the multi-faceted world of fine wine. What differentiates the K&L Wines Clubs is our staff and their expertise. Our wine buyers are dedicated professionals with years of experience, an extraordinary depth of knowledge and a 100% commitment to excellence.
So what are you waiting for? Give us a call or go to our award-winning website to sign up for one of our Clubs, and you will soon be off on your guided tour of the world’s finest wines.
—Thornton Jacobs

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