Many of you have heard how great the 2005 Burgundy vintage is. And I will have a report on our website after our March trip. But now that I have tasted a few dozen of them, I am convinced this really is a special vintage. And in a year like this, the wines are excellent from top to bottom. This may be a year to forego that Musigny, Grand Cru, and look for values in village or Premier Cru wines. Or, look for producers who always offer great value, and whose wine is particularly great in such a great vintage.
One such producer is Domaine Frederic Esmonin in Gevrey Chambertin. They are farmers at heart and made great wine in this vintage, since they produced great fruit from which to make the wines. Their 2005 vintage is the best I have ever tasted from them. We have the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur ($31.99), which is intense and structured and offers cellar potential and the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux St. Jacques ($49.99), which is deep and rich, with classic Gevrey character and a red fruit nose. In contrast, the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin “Estournelles St. Jacques,” 1er Cru ($49.99), which comes form the vineyard further up the hill, with more limestone in the soil, has an airy and cool quality, with lovely fruit and an interesting spicy note. The 2005 Mazy-Chambertin ($88.99) has weight-lifter musculature, with brawny fruit and big finish. Again, in contrast is my perennial favorite from this cellar, the 2005 Ruchottes-Chambertin ($88.99), is sappy and highly aromatic, with lots of extract and lovely bright character. Don’t miss these exciting wines, as there is lots of interest in the 2005 vintage! Á Sante! —Keith Wollenberg