By now most everyone has heard about the monumental 2005 vintage in France. Thanks to global warming, gone are the days where many winemakers have to worry about adequate sugar levels. Due to steadily climbing global temperatures, it seems like we will undoubtedly be in for at least several more “vintages of the century,” perhaps before we even get out of this first decade. I am already missing the old days: vintages of purity, grace and elegance endowed with the requisite tannic structure and acidity to go the long haul. In the southern Rhone these are vintages like 2001 and 2004, where fruit took a backseat to typicity and sense of place. Don’t get me wrong, the 2005s are hysterically delicious, but along with this glamour and fun, it is becoming increasingly difficult to assign them a distinct personality. Below are two CNPs from 2004. If you are into points, these two have got em in spades. If you are into memorable wines with flesh, cut and chisel then I would definitely get on these 2004s. Three, five or ten years from now, upon rediscovering them in your cellar, you will certainly feel smart, cultured and very validated!
2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mas de Boislauzon “Cuvée du Quet” ($49.99) 92 points Wine Spectator: “Very lush, modern style. This almost oozes raspberry ganache and fig paste flavors, with lots of bass thanks to bold, toasty cocoa and mocha notes that dominate for now. But there's a fine minerality buried beneath it all, so cellar. Best from 2007 through 2024. 300 cases imported.” (11/06)
2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mas de Boislauzon “Cuvée du Quet” ($49.99) 90-93 points Robert Parker: “Dense ruby/purple to the rim, with a big, sweet nose of black cherries, smoke, white chocolate, and some toasty pain grille notes in the background, the wine is layered, full-bodied, impressively endowed, and ideal for drinking early on or aged for 12-15 years.” (02/06) —Mulan Chan