The daily schedule of “The King of the Medoc,” Clyde Beffa Jr. has not changed much over the many years; it remains brisk and brutal. In the evaluation of the 2006 vintage the King brought me with him and his most trusted consultants, the Baron of St. Louis and the Prince of Filet Mignon. We managed to taste over 700 wines in seven business days. All that travel in and out of cars is also taxing on the body. Lunch and dinner are rewarding necessities on a business adventure like this.
In general the trip was tough on the palate. The 2006s are vivaciously bright colored wines with lovely fresh and fragrant fruit on the nose but many do not have the ripeness in the mouth to match up to the racy acidities and drying tannins that follow. Looking at my notes, however, it is clear that once again the finest estates in Bordeaux, which is the major aspect of our business, did very well. I found that only a couple of 2006s were better than their 2005s. The wines of 2005 have the lovely ripeness and length in the middle of the wine and the finish that is missing in many 2006s. 2006, like 1986 and 1996 before it, finds itself in a tough spot coming after a real good/great vintage with high prices. The commercial success of this vintage and our recommendations will depend of course on the pricing of the wines. For me they had better come down in price more than we are hearing. Please see our complete vintage report.
Here are the highlight wines and events for me, day to day. I use a 3-Star system for barrel samples. 1 Star: “I like this wine and would buy it;” 2 Stars: “Really good to possibly great wine that I would consider buying on futures for my collection, depending on the price;” 3 Stars: “A wine of greatness, a classic.” If the wine is listed here, I gave it a Star. Please feel free to contact me for a complete copy of my personal notes at Ralph@klkwines.com or with any questions or advice on the wines of Bordeaux.
Mercredi 28th: ’06 Pichon Longueville, ’06 Petit Village, ’06 S de Suduiraut: 1976 Petit Village, 1961, 1957 and 1937 Pichon Longueville, 1975 Suduiraut, 1999 Tokai Diznoko and 1963 Quinta do Noval Nationale that was just incredible with dinner at Pichon Baron.
Jeudi 29th: ’06 Lynch Bages, 2 Stars! ’06 Lynch Bages Blanc, 2005 Phelan Segur, 2000, 2003 Coufran, 2006 Cos d’Estournel, ’06 Goulee: Lunch at Cos, 1997 Latour, 1985 Cos: 2005 Langoa Barton, 2006 Léoville-Barton, 2 Stars! ’05 Barton, 3 Stars! ’06 Potensac, ’06 Clos du Marquis, ’06 Léoville-Las-Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2 Stars! Léoville-Poyferre, 2 Stars! Pontet-Canet, 2 Stars! Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2 Stars! Les Forts de Latour, Latour, 2.5 Stars! The dinner at Latour with all first growths, along with Forts de Latour, Ausone, Petrus and Cheval Blanc all from the year I started at K&L 1978.
Vendredi 30th: ’06 Branaire-Ducru, ’06 Gruaud Larose, 2 Stars! ’05 & ’06 d’Anguludet, ’05 & ’06 Dauzac, ’06 Marquis d’Anselme, ’06 Labegorce, ’06 Cantemerle, 2 Stars! ’06 & ’01 Lascombes, 1999, 1997, 1996, 1995 Lascombes.
Samedi 31st: 18 holes and a painful workout playing horrible golf, best cold Grand Heineken of the year after. 1996 Roederer Crystal, 2 Stars! 1996 Cos d’Estournel, 2 Stars! 1961 Ducru-Beaucaillou, 3 Stars! Lovely dinner with Pierre Antoine and Mary Claude Casteja. Bordeaux beat Lyon in Paris to win Championship. Sarah Levin’s party!
Dimanche 1st: More weak golf but fun party with more good wines! Bollinger Champagne, 1990 Léoville-Las-Cases, 2 Stars! 1989 Cheval Blanc at Pierre and Sophie Lawton’s..
Lundi 2nd: ’06 Ferriere, ’06 Haut-Bages-Liberal, ’05 & ’06 Malmaison, ’04 & ’05 Clarke, ’06 Palmer, 2 Stars! ’06 Malescot St. Exupery, 2 Stars! ’06 Duhart-Milon, ’06 Carruades de Lafite, ’Lafite-Rothschild, 2 Stars! ’06 d’Armaillac, Clerc-Milon, Mouton-Rothschild, 2.5 Stars! 1990 Clerc Milon, 2 Stars and 1982 Mouton-Rothschild, 3 Stars! One of the greatest wines ever. Lunch at Mouton! ’89 Coutet, ’06 Pavillion Rouge, ’06 Margaux, 2 Stars! Pavillion Blanc, 2 Stars! ’04 Smith-Haut-Lafitte, 2 Stars! ’06 Smith-Haut-Lafite. Dinner at Smith-Haut-Lafitte.
Mardi 3rd, Mercredi 4th, Jeudi 5th, Vendredi 6th Joanne tasting, 150 wines: ’0’6 Gigaut Cuvee Viva, Giscours, 2 Stars! Brane Cantenac, Beaumont, Camensac, Greysac, Latour De By, Chasse Spleen, 2 Stars, Clinet, 2 Stars! Gazin, La Cabanne, La Consiellante, 2 Stars! Petrus, 2 Stars! Trotanoy, 2.5 Stars! La Fleur, 2.5 Stars! Angelus, 2 Stars! Le Plus, Vieux Ch. Palon, Cheval Blanc, La Gaffeliere, Canon La Gaffeliere, 2 Stars! Berliquet, Bel Air, Beausejour Becot, Pavie Macquin, 2 Stars! Larcis Ducasse, Troplong Mondot, Clos de l’Oratoire, La Mondotte, 2 Stars! Haut Bergey, Le Gay, Haut Bailly, du Tertre, 1996, 1986 Haut Bailly, Carmes Haut Brion, Carbonnieux, Malartic-Lagraveliere, Dom. de Chevalier, Figeac, 2 Stars! La Mission Haut Brion and Haut Brion, 2 Stars! Sauternes: ’0’6 Guiraud, de Fargues, de Malle, Rieussec, Coutet, Suduiraut, 2 Stars! Rayne Vigneau, Latour Blanche. Dinner in the Bistro at Les Sources de Caudalie. Dinner at Haut Bailly with Veronique and Alexandre. Dinner and tingling cellar tour at Mahler-Besse with Frank and Ferdinand. 1970 Gazin, 2 Stars and 1970 Palmer, 3 Stars! Air France/Chance was again just brutal, 3 Stars. Toujours Bordeaux! —Ralph Sands