2004 Qupe Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate ($34.99) This is 100% roussanne, a difficult varietal with which to work. But in the capable hands of winemaker/viticulturist Bob Lindquist it is a beautiful wine. This is confirmed by the 90 points given to the wine by Robert Parker and the 91 points bestowed by Stephen Tanzer. Orange rind and honeysuckle lead you straight away to rousanne. Minerals and white flowers give it complexity. The pears and pineapple aromas and flavors are an added bonus. It’s hard to imagine a better domestic Rousanne. The wine is fermented and aged in Francois Frere Burgundy barrels. This gives it a rounder and richer texture than your average California white, while its mouth watering freshness gives it perfect balance. Only 550 cases were made, so buy it now while the vintage lasts. Drink it now and over the next 10 years.
2003 Qupe Syrah Hillside Estate ($34.99) The Z block of the Hillside Estate where this 100% Syrah comes from is one of the most famous sites connected to the Bien Nacido Vineyard. Loaded with crème de cassis, blackberries and a tell-tale pepperyness that lets you know its Syrah, there’s a smokiness that adds another layer of complexity. The wine expands out as it hits your tongue and slides down your throat. The 2003 is more approachable than previous vintages of Hillside Estate. This is a dense chewy Syrah without being over extracted. Scoring 92 points from Robert Parker and 92+ from Stephen Tanzer, this limited production Syrah is very pleasurable to drink now and over this next decade.
—Chip Hammack