Last fall our Champagne buyer, Gary Westby, brought in wines from a new producer: Domaine Bruno Michel in Pierry. I was initially intrigued by the wines due to the noticeable presence of pinot meunier. It also turns out that the fruit is all organically grown. I’ll be among the first to say that organic farming is not a guarantor of quality, but when you taste these wines the fact that the fruit is so lovingly raised comes through in the glass. I visited Chez Michel in February with fellow K&Ler Jeff Vierra. Pierry is a small village south of Epernay, where Bruno and his wife Catherine make their wines in an idyllic domaine. Bruno’s father’s estate passed on to his older brother, so Bruno started his career as a nurseryman. This focus on plant material informs his work in the winery. There are many older vines on the property, and the new plantings come from selections of those older vines. This “massale” selection is a throwback to the way plants were propagated before the dominance of nursery-developed clones adapted for higher production and more consistency. By using vines that have evolved in the vineyards in and around his village, Bruno is able to produce fruit that is uniquely expressive of where it comes from, and farming organically helps that fruit speak loud and clear. There are only 100 hectares of organic vineyards in Champagne. The dominance of the grand marks provides little impetus for growers to improve the quality of their vineyards. The Michel’s are working against that trend, and their love of their vineyards comes through in their soulful wines. Try the fresh and lively Michel Cuvee Blanche Brut ($29.99) or the delicate