One of the highlights of my trip to Champagne this April was visiting Champagne Fleury in the Aube. Biodynamic viticulture is a complicated subject, and I was very pleased to get a chance to learn about it from one of the world’s most respected practitioners. The family estate has been growing grapes since the 1850s. Emile Fleury (the great grandfather) was the first to plant grafted stock in the Aube in 1901, and they were also the first in the Aube to bottle their own wine in 1929. When the current generation took over in the 1970s, the viticulture was changed to organic. By 1989, Mr. Fleury converted to bio- with the whole estate certified by Demeter in 1992, another first, this time for the whole Champagne region.
I have never seen vineyards anywhere like the Fleury estate. The village, like Brouillet, is planted to many crops besides grapes, and that in combination with Mr. Fleury’s strict methods have created a vitality that can be felt when standing between the rows. I will organize a special tasting when I get back so I can also show you all the pictures. I will say now that these vineyards are in stark contrast with his neighbors.
The Fleury “Carte Rouge” Brut Champagne ($29.99750ml, $15.99 375ml and $12.99 200ml) is a zesty, pure pinot noir cuvee. The dosage is very low, and this is one of the driest Champagnes we have, but it has a wonderful black cherry fruit quality that reminds us that it is all pinot! It is long and refreshing and very well balanced.
The Fleury Brut Rosé Champagne ($34.99750ml, $19.99 375ml and $15.99 200ml) is also 100% pinot noir. In the glass it has a wonderful, fresh pinot noir nose of strawberry fruit and forest air intrigue. On the palate it has a great small bubble texture with magnificent depth and terroir. It is a very exciting bottle of bubbles!
Please ask about the late disgorged 1996, on its way in August! And please contact me anytime at garywestby@klwines.com or 877-KLWines (877-559-4637) ex 2728. —Gary Westby