Unusual Italians
2005 Cantina Valle Isarco “Aristos” Muller Thurgau ($19.99) Muller thurgau is not a noble variety, but do not hold that against it. It was created in the late 19th century as a cross between riesling and sylvaner hoping to breed a grape that would mature and grow well in cool climates. The fruit character leans to the tropical, think chilled mango! Surprisingly, this wine has a moderate amount of richness that accentuates the roundness of the fruit and moderates its brisk acidity. The aromatics run from tropical to yellow fruits with soft floral hints and a subtle mineral tang.
2005 Ermacora Refosco ($15.99) Here is another unusual varietal from Northern Italy’s Friuli region. Dark berries, crisp red fruits, minerals and a touch of spice, this wine will not exhibit the richness that you would associate with Bordeaux, think more Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. It is bright, structured and has good length, in other words, a perfect dinner wine. Fire up the BBQ, try out that new pork roast recipe, this wine will work with you! It is hard to find a wine this user friendly with as much complexity and depth!
2003 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” (24.95) It seems to be very easy to overlook Chianti these days, with all of the press and acclaim that Brunello receives. It is also not the first place that most people look to for full and rich Italian reds. This is a wine that will change that. It is medium to medium-full-bodied with plenty of dense dark berry fruit, spice, earth and floral notes on the nose. The palate is structured with ripe and round tannins that make there presence known but do not dominate the wine. Both red and dark fruits accentuated with soft almost graphite earthy tones lie beneath it. This can be drunk tonight, with decanting, or can spend the next 5 to 7 years in your cellar. —Kirk Walker
