No, that isn’t a typo or a Piemontese exclamation, Gaia is Angelo Gaja’s very talented young daughter. We at K&L hosted our first southern California Italian wine dinner at La Terza Restaurant on Wednesday, June 13th.

The reception started with guests drinking Ca del Bosco Franciacorta Brut one of Italy’s most famous sparkling wine producers with a variety of Antipasti. The first course was an Insalata di Aragosta (Lobster salad with mache, orange and bottarga) served along with the 2005 Gaja Langhe “Alteni di Brassica” (Sauvignon Blanc) that was drinking brilliantly.

The Pasta course was the truly sublime dish of the evening a stunning plate of Agnolotti di Ossobuco (agnolotti stuffed with veal ossibuco, ricotta, swiss chard and marjoram) that was accompanied by the 2004 Ca’ Marcanda Toscana IGT “Magari” an intriguing blend of Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from the Tuscan coast. It was followed by a truly exquisite and perfectly drinking 2003 Gaja Barbaresco; it was probably the wine I would have drunk out of all of them if I had one to choose.

The main course was Lombo di Agnellino (Baby rack of lamb drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and roasted shallots) it was served with two of Gaja’s Cru wines the 2001 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo “Sperss” (one time Barolo vineyard) and the 2001 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo “Sori Tildin” (one time Barbaresco vineyard). The Sperss showed all of the classic Serralunga commune character but was still soft enough to enjoy. The Sori Tildin produced several “Wow's" across the room on the nose alone. It was extraordinary, penetrating and simply captivating. In the mouth it still showed some of the structure the 2001 vintage is famous for and will allow it to age for many years to come.

The 2000 Gaja Langhe “Darmagi” (Cabernet Sauvignon) was served with a selection of Piemontese cheeses that Executive Chef Gino Angelini had specially selected. The “What a Pity” (Darmagi “means what a pity” in the Piemontese dialect) wine was still a little vegetal (Angelo thinks so) but had a luxurious mouth feel and was drinking well.

There were lots of questions but perhaps the most revealing answer was brought forward when Gaia was asked, Why have your top wines, once DOCG Barbaresco and DOCG Barolo, now been labeled Langhe Nebbiolo? Gaia responded that her father, being the driving force behind the idea of presenting single vineyard wines for decades, was tired of people referring to the Gaja Barbaresco as normal, base, everyday, regular or simple. Angelo (Gaia refers to her father with his first name) just couldn’t bear to think that the fruit of all his hard work was simple, regular, base or anything other than GREAT BARBARESCO, so he made all of his CRU wines under the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC where they could stand on their own as vineyard designate wines— making the Gaja Barbaresco THE Barbaresco in the winery!

A spectacular evening and a great intro for K&L Italian squadra to the Los Angeles market.

Greg St.Clair, K&L’s Italian Wine Buyer