Last January Guido Parres and I visited with La Fortuna’s irrepressible Gioberto Zannoni and his young son Angelo at their winery in Montalcino. Gioberto had decided years ago not to make any 2002 Brunello, so we focused on their new releases. We first tasted the 2004 La Fortuna “Fortunello” ($17.99) a mini Super Tuscan made from 90% sangiovese and 10% merlot. We were really impressed by the forward, rich fruit and smooth finish. It was a wine that put a smile on our faces, so easy to drink and perfect for grilled foods, whether fowl or terrestrial. The 2005 La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino ($21.99) was powerful; it had the structure and density of Brunello, filled with cranberry, plum flavors and chock full of spice and violets in the nose, a wine with power and grace. It was truly more impressive than a mere Rosso. It is dynamic, structured, has great balance and is worthy of aging for 3-5 more years, while being very drinkable now. Gioberto’s 2001 Brunello was awarded 3 Glasses from Gambero Rosso last year and was one of our most popular wines while it was available. We loved it. Guido’s keen eye saw a pile of magnums (he loves big bottles) and when I asked Gioberto what they were, he responded, “the last of the 2001!” So we bought ‘em! The 2001 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 1.5L ($89.99) has a particular energy wine that resonates from an interior core of structure. (I was thinking of something new to write about this wine but what I originally wrote still seems to be the best, so pardon my personal plagiarism.)The wine’s warm, sweet ripeness is full of intense plum and dark cherry aromatics that seem poised to jump out of the glass. The thick, lush, yet dazzlingly fresh fruit character is accented with hints of earth, spice and mineral wrapped around a powerful foundation. While profoundly concentrated, the silky texture of this wine sends waves of smooth, unctuous texture across your palate. Powerful, complex, drinkable and age-worthy, this luscious Brunello shows the great balance inherent in this 2001 vintage and it will age well for another decade plus. The 2001 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ($54.99) is a powerhouse, a wine with decidedly more structure and concentration than the non-riserva (it just doesn’t seem correct to say the “normale”). It is a wine that can cellar for another decade, yet it is forward enough (with a few hours of decanting) to drink now. If you can’t get Gioberto’s favorite accompaniment, the classic and powerful Montalcino dish, Cinghiale (wild boar), try it with your favorite steak.

The new vintage 2006 Blason Tocai Friulano ($9.99) has arrived, it is truly stunning and a steal at the price. It seems to be more popular every year! This vintage is rich, more complex than the 2005, layered with spice with suggestions of tarragon and lime in the finish. Fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, the wine has a great balance of fruit, spice and it is such a pleasure to drink, you’ll love it! I like it with linguine and clams.

—Greg St. Clair