To meet Wilhelm Haag, of the Fritz Haag wine estate, is both pleasure and pain. He is an absolute gem of a human being, kind, energetic and a pleasure to be around. But I’m frightened every time I see him. His handshake is a bone-crushing experience famous in the German wine world. You know it’s legendary when you see Haag and start your plan of attack. Do you go in straight away and get it over with? Or, do you put it off until the end so you can run out with your eyes watering, hoping no one notices? Haag’s wines are not unlike the man. Always made in a traditional style, they are beautiful with bracing minerality, depth of flavor, fine, racy acidity and fantastic longevity to boot—a unique combination of hard-core inner power surrounded by a delicate, whimsical personality. The 2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett ($25.99) is born from a south-facing, 32 hectare vineyard that consists of iron-rich slate soils with a bit of sand mixed in as well. The slate really jumps out of the glass here, balanced out by tart green apple and lemon cream essences. The 2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese #7 ($38.99) is produced on a 10 hectare “filet” section of the Juffer. This is a much steeper section, some parts at a 75% grade, that is well-sheltered and benefits from the reflection off the river. This is a very streamlined and juicy wine with a deeper, broader display of aromatics: fleshy stone fruit and just a hint of rich cassis. It starts off by coating the palate with its rich texture. Then, the high concentration of slate, which the Sonnenhur is known for, takes over and gives it a light, delicate finish.

—Eric Story