With all the well-deserved hype and fuss over the 2005 vintage, K&L Burgundy buyer Keith Wollenberg took extra time to find some real gems to add to our Direct Import program. When he came across, Domaine Gabriel Billard, he knew he’d found a winner and set about developing our relationship. Located in Pommard, this estate is run by sisters Mireille Desmonet and Laurent Jobard. Jobard’s name might be familiar: she is an enologist for Joseph Drouhin. She also oversees both the viticulture and vinification at her family estate estate. Our first offering is the 2005 Domaine Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Rouge “Milliane” ($19.99), named for Milliane, the tiny half hectare vineyard located within the town of Pommard. The vines are more than 45-years old and are farmed in a very non-interventionist way, using organic practices as often as possible. As you would expect from the enologist of Drouhin, their wines are subtle and pure, expressing the fruit and the vineyard site. This wine saw very little new oak and was fermented using only natural yeasts. The nose is charming and expressive, showcasing vibrant cherry notes while the palate is ripe and round, just as to be expected from this vintage, with moderate tannins and a silky finish. Delicious now, this wine will continue to improve over the next year or so and drink terrifically for a few years more. I cannot wait to see what is coming next from this producer!
—Kirk Walker