When you have two estates that date from the 16th and 18th centuries, respectively, and that were classified in 1855 as third and fifth growths, it’s hard to think of them as rising stars. But in today’s ever-changing Bordeaux landscape I can tell you, unequivocally, that the meteoric rise in popularity of Ch. Maléscot-St-Exupéry (Margaux) and Ch. Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) is richly deserved and absolutely no fluke.

Jean-Luc Zuger is the man in charge at Ch. Maléscot-St-Exupéry today and he is fully aware of the historically great terrior of his vineyard and its royal beginnings. The motto “Blue blood will always tell” was instituted in the 16th century by the Esousse royal family and carried on by Simon Maléscot in 1697, who lent the vineyard his name until Count Jean-Baptiste de Saint-Exupéry bought it in 1827. When Jean-Luc’s father Roger bought the estate in 1955 he added “Simper Ad Altum” meaning “even higher,” to the label. Jean-Luc was more than ready when he took over, immediately becoming very selective with his fruit and investing in 80% new oak. Maléscot’s style features old vine fruit, is always masculine and well-defined when evaluated young; rounding out just beautifully and gaining richness in the mid palate over time. A classic Margaux wine with fantastic aromas of ripe grapes, leather, minerals and earth.

1997 ($39.99) Drinking well right now with an hour of decanting, showing elegant crisp, firm fruit. It went superbly with Tri-Tip!

2002 ($47.99) A big, dark wine with some serious tannins that needs seven to ten more years in the cellar; the breed and class of the vineyard really comes through in this difficult vintage.

2003 ($49.99) Even a classic styled wine like Maléscot can’t escape the heat of 2003! This wine has had layers of rich, soft, opulent fruit from day one and everyone loves it. This wine will not close down.

Alfred Tesseron always pours his beloved Ch. Pontet-Canet from a decanter these days. He wants his wine to show its best and it does. In my opinion Pontet-Canet is by far the brightest rising star in Bordeaux today. Alfred has improved everything at the estate and his new cone-shaped, cement fermentation tanks are the final touch. A masculine, very deep, dark purple wine with great purity and power, the quality today blows away dozens of more famous names like the TGV streaking through the countryside. The wines made recently are awesome and the 2004 ($52.99) is fantastic, and quite frankly the only example you need to try to understand just how great a wine is being made here. In my opinion it is the best overall Bordeaux in our inventory for the money. Decant and try one, even thought it is brutally young, if you love Bordeaux you need to experience this quality while the price remains reasonable. The 1996 ($79.99) is a wine I bought a case of on futures and it is progressing nicely, still vibrant and young but not perfectly ready yet so get out your decanter and air it out for two hours.

We just purchased two other 1996s from St-Estèphe. Phélan-Ségur ($49.99) is just about ready now and features bright, zesty, spicy, very attractive cherry fruit. The 1996 Ch. Potensac ($34.99), from the stable of Léoville-Las Cases, is always classic, stern and firm with dark fruit and grip. Like all the 1996s it needs to visit our friend the decanter for a couple hours.

In our K&L universe we sadly lost a few stars recently. Coach Bill Walsh brought more happiness to the San Francisco Bay Area than anyone could ever have dreamed of. Homer Zugelder, the father of our own Joe Zugelder, just exuded class and was a coach and mentor to hundreds of people that were lucky to have known him. And my old golf and wine buddy Don Kunesh; the undisputed King of the napkin trick! So I raise my glass and toast all these fine men and know that they would want me to say...
GO NINERS!

Cheers, and feel free to contact me anytime with questions on the wines of Bordeaux at x2723 or Ralph@klwines.com

—Ralph Sands