Lodi isn’t the first place on peoples’ list of the world’s exciting wine regions, much less in California. But they do one thing inarguably well—zinfandel. Why, you may ask? Well they have the heat the grape revels in and a gaggle of “old vine” zinfandel that produces intense flavors.

A perfect example of this is the 2005 Moss Roxx “Ancient Vines” Lodi Zinfandel ($34.99). Moss Rox is the oldest operating winery in Lodi, founded in 1934, and while the vines for this wine might not date back to the Ice Age, they are between 50 and 100 years old, somewhere in the vicinity of the age of one Mr. Jim Barr. The wine instantly jumps out of the glass with its freshly grated cinnamon and sappy boysenberry fruit. Boisterous and brambly this comes at you like a tidal wave of flavor, drenching your palate in black pepper, blueberry, fennel and homemade pie crust. The even better part is that this will not set your mouth on fire; the usual high octane alcohol levels are perfectly balanced.

Not to be out done is one of the most popular and quickest selling Zinfandels in recent years here at K&L. The 2005 Klinker Brick “Old Ghost” Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel ($35.99) is equally intense but holds itself quite differently. As a selection of the winery’s best fruit, the grapes come from a 90 year old vineyard that is still running strong. Not as aggressive but every bit as flavorful as the Moss Roxx, this shows more cola spice, raspberry, white pepper flavors and has an indestructible frame of bright lip-smacking acid and pliable tannin. This seems to hover on the palate, never showing the anvil-like weight that so many zins have these days. A benevelont ghost, surely, and a ghost that loves mountains of grilled, braised and slow roasted meats. Mmmmm, meat.

—Bryan Brick