I visited Sicily for three days at the end of April and beginning of May this year and in this miniscule amount of time the essence of Mt. Etna was permanently etched into my soul. Greg's Conversion on the road to Catania, as I refer to it now, was not unlike me stepping out of the desert after 40 days of fasting. I arrived in Sicily having slept only two hours in 36, flown 6,000-plus miles and driven 1,200 kilometers (thanks to a couple of Red Bulls) and, in a state of physical exhaustion, arrived five minutes late for my first appointment (I hate to be late). I was fortunate enough to meet first with Ciro Biondi, who is as gracious an Ambassador as the region could have. I had tasted his wine and been impressed with the depth of character and, while fascinated, I was still trying to understand what the “Etna” grapes were all about. Nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio are the two dominant red varieties and carricante is the dominant white. Ciro showed me the first of his three vineyards and I was really stunned. It looked like it was a scene from Hawaii, a black sand beach, no terracing, no trellising, just 40-60 year old head trained vines stretching up a 35-degree slope. I was dumbfounded, the steepness is hard to describe. Ciro chuckled and brought me to the next vineyard, the same black sand beach yet with a 50-degree slope....for you skiers that’s a Black Diamond! The 2003 Vini Biondi Etna Rosso “Outis”($32.99) is rich and complex; it feels more like pinot or nebbiolo in the mouth and it’s gorgeous. Ciro’s 2005 Vini Biondi Etna Bianco “Gurna” ($24.99) is predominantly carricante, but from a field blend of 40 year old vines that is lush, exuberant and delicious to drink.

We also met with Andrea Franchetti, the owner of the famed Super Tuscan property Tenuta Trinoro, at his property on the north side of Etna—a new winery called Passopisciaro. His 2005 Passopisciaro Sicilia Rosso IGT ($31.99) is made from 40 year old vineyards; it is heady, supple, passion in a glass and it too really feels more like nebbiolo or pinot than anything else, drinkable and exciting. Andrea’s new project, the 2005 Franchetti Sicilia Rosso IGT ($109.99) is a blend of 60% petit verdot and 40% cesanese d’afile. You might say what the hell is that? A tiny production of 250 cases will make this wine very hard to get. This was WITHOUT A DOUBT the most impressive wine I tasted on my last trip, powerful structure and body from the petit verdot, while the rich, supple texture and heady aromatics come from the Cesanese. Trust me.

I’m running out of space so I’m just going to list what I really think are excellent wines from Etna. First, the 2004 Villagrande "Fiore" Bianco Sicilia IGT ($24.99) is a delicious 100% carricante. The powerful, (really) challenging, mineral-laden 2001 Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore “Pietramarina” ($44.99) is a multiple 3 Glass Gambero Rosso award winner. Yes this is the current vintage.The supple and expressive 2002 Benanti Rosso di Verzella Etna Rosso ($22.99) is drinking beautifully now as is the powerful, barrique-aged 2001 Benanti Rovitello ($46.99). Just outside of Etna, still nerello-based, the Palari wines are not to be missed. The 2003 Palari Rosso Soprano ($26.99) and the 2004 Palari Faro ($64.99) are stunning wines. If you’ve tried Sicilian wines before, but haven’t tasted Etna, you really need to give them a try!

—Greg St.Clair