K&L Uncorked: March 2008 Archives

I love my job; it’s pretty hard not to. I spend most days reading about and tasting new wines and then figuring out how best to share them with you as tasting notes on K&L’s website and, alongside our knowledgeable staff, through our newsletter. But perhaps the biggest reason I love my job, is for the chance to learn more about wines that I’ve never heard of or had previously considered out of reach, like the famed first-growth, Château Margaux. Last weekend K&L hosted Château Margaux’s managing director, Paul Pontallier, Margaux business manager Aurelien Valance and Paul’s son Thibaut Pontallier for an incredible dinner at Masa’s in San Francisco and an in-store tasting at K&L Hollywood. While I didn’t have the chance to make it up north for the Masa’s Dinner, I did break away from the computer long enough to attend the tasting at our Hollywood store.

Our guests drove straight from the airport to the K&L tasting, where they were greeted by wine-lovers already excited by the evening’s first pour, the 2004 Pavillon Blanc, Margaux ($59.99). This high-scoring wine (92-95 points Tanzer; 93 points Parker and Spectator) is 100% sauvignon blanc. Elegant and luscious with notes of melon, citrus, lemon zest and hay with a streak of minerals, the wine was viscous and honeyed mid-palate with the depth-of-flavor and complexity you would expect from Château Margaux.

Glasses of wine in-hand, the trio relaxed and worked into the crowd, mingling with the guests and answering their questions about the wines. Then, after a brief introduction by Bordeaux buyer and K&L co-owner Clyde Beffa Jr, Paul took center stage to talk about the history of the Château and the wines we were tasting. What struck me most was his humility. Here is a man, at the helm of one of the world’s most renowned wineries, talking about what a privilege it was to carry on the tradition of this great estate, to work to create better and better wines each vintage, to express the incredible terroir that what discovered centuries ago.

The Pavillon Blanc and Pavillon Rouge are the Château’s “second wine,” Paul explained, made to allow Château Margaux to be very selective of which fruit makes it into their first wine, to make it exceptional. But the winery also producers a third wine, he explained, which allows Margaux to make an exemplary second wine. Affordable and a bit more approachable in its youth, we tasted the 2003 Pavillon Rouge (already sold out) and the beautiful 2004 Pavillon Rouge, Margaux ($54.99), which I loves for the violet, chocolate and menthol aromas that blended so seamlessly with the cassis and black cherry notes. Lots of black fruit on the palate, the oak was incredibly well-integrated and the wine elegant and impeccably well-balanced. A very pretty wine!

We finished with the utterly gorgeous, 93 point (Spectator and Parker) 2004 Château Margaux, Margaux ($269.00). Sandwiched between the incredible 2003 and 2005 vintages, I think this wine really hasn’t gotten its due. Like the quiet, shy child that has plenty to say when her fingers tickle the piano keys, the 2004 Margaux is subtle and elegant, revealing complexity with each swirl. Raspberries, blueberries, purple flowers, cassis, anise and smoke lead to a palate framed by velvety, round tannins. Outstanding.

After Paul’s address, he again joined the crowd, answering a variety of questions and occasionally waxing poetic about the amazing wines he was in town representing. All and all a great experience for all who attended (including me). Look at all these happy, smiling people—proof that you don’t have to work in the wine business to enjoy the same great opportunities!

Don’t miss out on another event, bookmark K&L’s local events page and sign up for our email alerts, too.

—Leah Greenstein

Margaux Guests chatting about the Pavillon Blanc