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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Saturday
Aug022014

1994 Gruaud Larose Tears up the Vintage Chart

Yes- another ribeye steak and another great aged Bordeaux. Predictably great!

I have to thank the wine world for its vintage chart mentality, because without it, I would not have been able to afford the great bottle of Bordeaux that I drank last night. The 1994 vintage was a truly odd harvest in Bordeaux, with late rain that diluted and hardened most of the wines at once. While vintages like 1997 & 2007 are consistently delicious, if not long term cellar prospects, 1994 made some tough, charmless wines. But those who picked just before those late rains in 1994 made great wines- wines that I have enjoyed more than the 1995’s and 1996’s that are so lauded by the press.

The 1994 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien ($79.99) is a special occasion wine for me. It is not inexpensive, but it certainly delivers! If I had a choice to drink this wine, or the 1995 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien ($119) or even the 2000 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien ($179.99) I would take the 1994, regardless of the price. It, along with the Leoville Barton and Pontet-Canet are the huge success of this almost forgotten vintage.

The 200 hundred acres of vineyards at Chateau Gruaud-Larose are planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petite Verdot. It is an old site for the Haut Medoc, and has been planted continuously since the 1700’s. Currently the vines average forty years old, but some are nearly one hundred. They no longer use any chemical pesticides or herbicides.  They declassify a significant portion of the wine into their very good second label, the Sarget de Gruaud Larose.

As usual, Cinnamon and I enjoyed our claret with a ribeye steak and potatoes. Cinnamon decided to be avant-garde on this occasion, and instead of peas or green beans served pan seared padron peppers. We put a touch of truffle salt on the steaks after cooking them, and the meal turned out very nicely. How did the Gruaud work? It was predictably great with the food. This 1994 has the poise and power of a great vintage at 20 years old, and seems to just be hitting its stride. It has a huge amount of pure, dark cassis fruit, integrated but very present tannins, and lots of electricity on the long, mineral laden finish. It took discipline for me not to hog the bottle, but it was too good not to share with fairly with Cinnamon!

I think this wine will be at its peak in another 10 years, and should last for as long as you care to keep it. It will be very hard for me not to consume all that I can afford soon, since it drinks so nicely right now. Join me in enjoying this while tearing up the vintage chart!

A toast to you!

Gary Westby

 

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