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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Friday
Apr142006

Baby Cult Wine!

Cult wines come and get so popular that no one can find or afford them, but no one seems to point out the cult wines in the making. Let’s change that right now. Watch out for Sonoma Coast Vineyards. I have some delicious wines for you this month! 2003 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Chardonnay ($36.99) This explosive newcomer is brimming with rich west Sonoma fruit. Spicy ripe pear and figs dominate the nose, which is interlaced with a lees-y and rich Crème Broulee/French oak nose. On the palate this wine just screams, dare I say it, Kistler Killer! At less than half the price of Kistler’s Chards, this rich and powerful Chardonnay has an incredible texture of beeswax/lanolin and unctuousness while maintaining acidity that tells you right away this is west Sonoma Chardonnay. You’ll find rich succulent pear and fuji apple fruit, with an intriguing note of tangerine. The wine maintains acidity, (malo was discouraged) and an elegant silky smooth and very long finish. If you have enjoyed the high-end Dutton Goldfields and Kistlers but don’t want to spend a fortune, give this a spin and see for yourself. A guaranteed “wow” and a great savings to boot! 2003 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir ($44.99) Well, I’m going to have to use explosive again because that describes this wine to a tee! Monstrous amounts of intense cherry liqueur-ish fruit dominate the nose with a warm blush of French oak (50% new) and spicy blackberry juice undertones. The palate again bursts with intense fruit and a dusty Asian spice, intense and viscous. This is not a Pinot for the faint of heart. It is truly a wine for the cult Pinot lover. If you love the Kistlers, William Selyems, Martinellis, Rochiolis of the Pinot World, you owe it to yourself to try this blockbuster before it becomes impossible to find too. —Shaun Green

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