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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Tuesday
Apr042006

Bordeaux Report: 2005s Round One

So far the wines have very expressive aromas and tons of fruit up front with lots of tannin and acid and fruit on the palate. Alcohol levels are very high but wines do not show it. The combination of high tannin and high acid make for dry sensation on the palate. Tannins are integrated. Pichon-Baron and Petit Village were great. Petit Village, Pomerol Their best in long time. 75% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc, very high cabernet sauvignon content. Spicy, clove-like aromas with some allspice notes. A touch of chocolate on palate. Tons of fruit. Very bright and lively. A touch tough at back. *1/2 Pibran, Pauillac 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot. Cabernet did better here, and they used a lot in the final blend. Very expressive nose of black raspberry with cranberry undertones some orange zest on palate. A touch rustic, but should be a value. Pichon-Baron, Pauillac 64% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc, 33% merlot. 13.6 alcohol and low pH of 3.7-means high acid. You do not taste the alcohol because of massive fruit, acid and tannin content. Very spicy aromas of red fruits and cassis-some cranberry notes. Deep color and very sweet entry to palate. Some dry tannins at back but they are integrated. Tobacco notes. Rich, lingering finish. ** S de Suduiraut, Dry White Bordeaux Had a wonderful spicy pear aroma that followed to the palate. Very rich wine with sweet tart flavors and lingering finish. Quite deep. 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon. Suduiraut, Sauternes Otherworldly and delicious already. 90% semillon and 10% sauvignon blanc. Coconut and honey and pineapple aromas. Unctuous on the palate. Tons of balancing acid to go with the fruit. Creamy rich mid palate. A complete wine that is wonderful already. -Clyde Beffa

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