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Just add duck crepinettes!

Buying ready to drink 1er cru Burgundy is not easy. For a couple of years I did the Old and Rare wine buying here at K&L and found it easy to find California Cabernet and even Bordeaux from collectors. But Burgundy… Forget it. They had to die, get a divorce or have doctors orders to part with the king of all Pinot Noir! This bottle of 2007 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Nuits St-Georges 1er cru Les Boudots ($99) comes direct from the property from our friends at Atherton, and like most of the 2007’s, drinks fabulously right now. This wine showed excellent sweet beet fruit, savory depth, and incredible finesse and length. The tannins are completely resolved, and went perfectly with duck crepinettes from the fatted calf in San Francisco. This is the kind of Burgundy that gets people hooked- you have been warned!!!! –Gary Westby

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Free Spirits Tastings at K&L! Now that we have our license for spirits tastings in Redwood City and San Francisco, we’re excited to host regular free spirits tastings in those locations.  Check the Spirits Journal for an updated tasting schedule.

All tastings will feature different products from the Spirits Department and take place on Wednesdays in Redwood City and San Francisco. Visit our events page on Facebook or the K&L Spirits Journal for more information.

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Does a Leaky Capsule Always Indicate Bad Wine? A Mountain of Surprise...

One of my favorite things about working where I do is that we buy lots of wine from private collections. The way it works is that we (rather, my co-worker Joe Z.) will inspect a cellar's condition, check out the wares and, if there are wines of some perceived value in the marketplace that have been well stored, Joe will make an offer. As he will offer to buy entire collections, not just cherry pick the highly sought-after stuff, there may be some '78 Amador zin mixed up with all of those nice '78 Burgundies and Napa cabs. We take it all in. This means that every so often we come across some really interesting stuff on the shelves of the old and rare section at K&L. Sometimes a few bottles are leakers, have low fills, and never make it to the shelf. I spied one such bottle while shooting the breeze with the great Joe Z, and asked his permission to open it. He obliged, I opened, and here's where it gets interesting.... The wine? A magnum of 1979 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Cabernet. This was a nearly 30 year-old wine produced from 100% cabernet sauvignon from Bates Ranch in the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. To be honest I don't recall the fill exactly, though it was at least upper shoulder (almost filling out the rounded part of the bottle, but not making its way into the narrow neck part). Nonetheless, a decent fill for a bottle stored almost 30 years in a private cellar. However, the foil capsule and area below it was sticky with what was clearly wine that had leaked out of the bottle. Upon cutting the foil and catching a whiff of the cork, my hopes dwindled. It smelled very oxidized, port-like but sour. When I pulled the cork, or most of the cork (I needed to push down a crumbly portion into the bottle) I promptly poured a small amount into a glass. The color was still deep and did not suggest a wine well past its prime. On the nose there were notes of intense dark fruit, some spice and cedar; the wine was more than alive, it was alive, kicking, screaming, and begging for attention. When I tasted the wine, it had all the vibrancy, flavor intensity and freshness of a wine half its age. Loads of sweet dark fruits, hints of prune and a strong cola aspect came across on the palate, which also still had some tannin structure. While the wine was not the most nuanced or complex, it certainly reminded me of a few things: 1) Wine is sometimes as resilient as it is fragile 2) CA Cabernet can pack a whole lot of richness and flavor, and still be under 13% alcohol 3) Santa Cruz Mountain wines, when they're good, age every bit as well, and often better than, wines from Napa. What a cool experience. I ended up pouring myself a glass to go with my lunch of leftover Bastille Day lentils and bread. After lunch I returned to the sales floor, one happy wine opiner. —Joe Manekin

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Reader Comments (1)

Great article, Mr. Manekin. I have found that some wines can survive what I consider to be an absolute pummeling, in regards to temperature, light and humidity during their tumultuous life. I've encountered this a few times in the last couple years.One was a 1977 Weibel Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon that I had opened on NYE as a birth year gift from a friend. It had been stored in its Lafayette garage for almost all of its 30 years...including 100+ degree summer days and below freezing nights in the winter. Yet it tasted fine and even good when finally opened! It was very light and tasting a little of its age, but still bright and no doubt originating as a lighter, less ripe style in the first place. Amazing.On the other hand, I opened a 1994 Rubicon at a dinner a few months later from that same friend and with similar storage conditions but not nearly as extreme...yet the wine was very oxidized. A very interesting experiment of contrasts, none-the-less!
July 26, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterWard Kadel

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