Editor's Note: Clyde has sent more Paris dining recommendations, and the first of his updates from Bordeaux.
Had a fine lunch at one of my favorite Paris Bistros, Fontaine de Mars. The Tete de Veau was especially good (from a fat-headed veal). Kay's fresh chevre was superb. Fillet of sole suberb as well and confit de carard solid with Tempier rose. We haven't been here since 2000, but Obama was here 10 days ago. Reservations a must for a good table; they're busy.
Fontaine de Mars 129 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris. Tel 01 47 05 46 44. Great bistro cooking; very friendly. Great "Tete de Veau" and southwestern French cooking. firstname.lastname@example.org $
L'Arpege ***Michelin (one of 20 in the world). 84 rue de Varenne 75007 Paris. (Across the street from entrance tot he Rodin museum.) Tel 01 47 05 09 06. Kay and I have always wanted to go to this restaurant and we finally didn. Got in last minute with some help from our hotel. It was a great dining experience; 11 courses in all. Vegetables are Alain Passard's specialty and we love veggies. For a short time it was strictly vegetarian, but people complained that the peas and caulflowers were too much money. Now it has but a few fowl courses and some fish courses, but the veggies are to die for. No flowers on tables - cauliflowers only! There were 40 people int he restaurant and it was packed. The wine list is very expensive, but we managed a half bottle of Billecart Reserve. Full of 2005 Chablis Vaillons from V Dauvisset - great! And the only affordble Bordeaux on the list was 1999 Clos du Marquis. Two glasses of 1985 Nieport and life was good. Now a year to pay it off. Passard signed our menu and came to our table twice.
Dinner at La Mission Haut-Brion featured a heavenly vegetable course (main ingredient was different colored beets) from aforemention L'Arpege chef, Alain Passard. We saw him again and he remembered us! The main course was cooked by Daniel Boulud of Restaurant Daniel in New York. Also great. Exhausted.
Le Lion d'Or 11, Route de Chateaux 33460 Arcins 05 56 58 96 79 is a fun place. You can bring your own wine with no corkage fee. Mr. Barbier is a character and speaks perfect English.
In St-Julien, Le Staint-Julien 11, rue Saint Julien 33250 St-Julien Beychevelle. Tel 05 56 59 63 87.
In Pauillac, Cordeillan-Bages. **Michelin (maybe *** soon). Fancy, very good. Routes des Chateaux - B.P. 79 33250 Pauillac. Tel 05 56 59 24 24
In small town of Bages, Lavinal is a fun place. Walking distance from Lynch-Bages. Place Desquet, Village Bages, Pauillac. Tel 05 57 75 00 09
In town of Bordeaux, La Tupina. Great, heart food. 6, rue Porte de la Monnaie 33800 Bordeaux. Tel 05 56 91 56 37.
In St-Emilion, Hotel Plaisance is great. Place du Clocher 33330 St-Emilion. Tel 05 57 55 07 55.
In Martillac, next to Smith-Haut-Lafitte, is the fabulous spa, Sources de Caudalie. Try their Bistro. Chemin de Smith Haut-Lafitte 33650 Bordeaux-Martillac 05 57 83 83 83.
—Clyde Beffa Jr