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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Wednesday
Aug112010

Wine Wednesday: 2005 Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino


After the brouhaha over controversial 2004 Brunello di Montalcino (producers were allegedly slipping in some unauthorized varietals to give the wines a boost), a little uneven ripening in the vineyards is a pleasant respite. If nothing else, it's much easier to negotiate. The 2005 vintage was good in Tuscany, if not cooler than usual, with some rain during the summer. This led a number of producers to drop fruit and to be incredibly selective during harvest. In some cases, this meant putting all the best fruit into the a regular Brunello and forgoing a Riserva for the vintage. But in the warmer parts of Tuscany, and the most exposed sites, the wines that resulted are excellent and ageworthy.

We recently received our first shipment of 2005 Brunelli, as well as some samples of wines that should be arriving this fall, and we were quite impressed. One of the wines that stood out the most--for its approachability despite its youth, its crossover appeal and its fantastically affordable price--was the 2005 Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino ($34.99). Giovanni Ciacci's family has owned Tenuta di Sesta, located at the southern edge of Montalcino, for more than 150 years. Giovanni's father, Giuseppe Ciacci, bottled the winery's first Brunello in 1966, the same year Brunello was first recognized as a DOC. We started bringing the wines in as part of our Direct Import program last year, and we haven't regretted it for a second. The 2005 has an elegant nose full of kirsch, espresso and spice. On the palate, its high tone cherry fruit and spice offset by incredibly polished and well-integrated tannins. Take this home if you want something spectacular and sexy tonight (with a little decanting), though this lovely Brunello will age well too.

Leah Greenstein

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