As we approach Islay on the ferry, I am sitting with the wind still stinging my cheeks and my hair in much worse shape than Kate Winslet's (David's Leo impression was stunning). I can see why people talk with such reverence about the island. It rises like a monolith out of the fog, barren and wind scoured. It hardly seems suitable for people to live on, let alone produce some of the finest malts in the world. Islay is so much more than Scotch though, it is a ruggedly beautiful backwoods, as well as surprisingly cultured and friendly.