We just received our small allocation of the 2004 Dom Pérignon Brut Rosé Champagne ($329), which will be arriving in the middle of June and is available for pre-order now. Just like with the 2002 vintage, I think this wine will go very quickly, and is very unlikely to be a regular in-stock item like the less sought after 2003 vintage has been. If you know you want some- don’t wait!
I had a chance to drink a preview bottle, and the Champagne is spectacular. The red wines used to make this rose are the best I have ever tasted in Champagne, and composed of Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru’s of Bouzy and Ay as well as the 1er cru of Hautvillers, the location where the Dom’s abbey is situated even today. The exact blend is proprietary, but chef de cave Richard Geoffroy explained to me that the spirit is about half and half Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for all Dom Perignon. Given that they do a short 8-10 day maceration on the red wines to reduce tannin, the percentage of red wine is very high- Jancis Robinson reports 27%- as the color is solid wild salmon pink.
Cinnamon and I drank our preview bottle with an excellent leek and mushroom tart that she made. The combination of morel and brown mushrooms worked perfectly with this wine, which has always made an excellent partner to savory food… You can check out past pairings of the 2002 (with mushroom risotto) and 2003 (with smoked salmon) on the blog. I find the magic in this rose aromatically; Christmas spices, dark cherry fruit, fresh baked pie crust and a hint of chalk. This open aroma gives way to flavors that are so elegant, laid back and subtle that it would be impossible to tire of drinking it. All the virtues of the classic 2004 vintage are here; finesse and ease as well as bright acidity and near infinite minerality on the finish.
I think this wine will make an excellent cellar candidate, but it will be hard to keep away from in the near term. After 11 years of ageing before release, this wine is spectacular right now. It might not be at its peak, but I enjoyed every drop!
A toast to you!