Claudie Jobard, the owner and winemaker of Domaine Gabriel Billard is blessed with ancient Pinot Noir vineyards. Her vines in and around Pommard are almost all ancient massal selected granddaddies, and the wine that she makes out of them have the concentration and depth that one would expect from such a noble source. While she studied oenology, her father was a nurseryman, and her love of her vines is clear from the moment you first speak to her in her cellar.
I bought a bottle of her 2012 Domaine Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Rouge "Cuvée Milliane" ($19.99) first thing when I got back from Burgundy, and served it with homemade chicken-pot-pie. This bottle comes from 60-80 year old vines just below the village of Pommard and has enough mid pallet texture to be confused for village level stuff. I love the crunchy, high energy, red fruit drive of this refreshing bottle, as well as the long finish. If you like your Burgundy for the table, this is one not to miss. It should keep very well, and I can’t wait to check in on the rest of my bottles over the next five or so years.
We were very lucky to be able to get an allocation of some older magnums from this Domaine as well. All of these come from 100+ year old vines in her parcel of Charmots. This parcel is so steep and off camber that everything must be done by hand in it. She makes about three barrels a year of this gem. Here is what we have:
Gary Westby, K&L