Last night, Cinnamon and I enjoyed a bottle of the 1991 Labégorce, Margaux ($29.99) and it reminded us of how much value Bordeaux still has to offer when you get away from the hype of the top Chateaus. This gravely, 74 acre vineyard is planted to 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petite Verdot. They work very traditionally, with the first fermentation in concrete and only 35% new oak for 12-15 months of elevage afterwards. They make 8500 cases a year.
If you are looking for an antidote to over-sized cabernet sauvignon, look no further. This old school, mature Bordeaux is just the wine for those of us who value maturity, complexity and restraint over youthful fruit, monolithic flavors and power.
Cinnamon and I enjoyed this with a rib-eye that I prepared on our little hibachi over mesquite, and it was wonderful. The 1991 vintage is a very rare one to find, as so much of the crop was destroyed by frost. Luckily, Labegorce is near the water, and the harvest was saved. This herbal, light bodied claret will thrill wine lovers who want something that is the opposite of "cult" wine!
This wine is drinking perfectly now, and should keep until its 25th or 30th birthday without a problem in your good cellar. I am going to buy a case for myself to drink over the next few years. If you love mature claret that goes perfectly with steak, you should do the same! –Gary Westby