Keith's Burgundy Hotline: 2006 Domaine Leroy

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

Not sure what you are getting for Christmas?  How about a present for yourself?  I know, I know, that is not the Christmas Spirit.

But all kidding aside, I just wanted to let you know about some rare Burgundy we just received tiny quantities of, released directly by the Domaine.  These were among my favorite of the vintage from Leroy.

There is just ONE case of each, and they are live and on the web (hyperlinks below).

2006 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée "Les Genaivrières" $405  (3 per person)

SKU #1117943 91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

Here the nose is both expressive and wonderfully seductive with its spicy elegance and striking purity to the red, blue and black pinot fruit that is classic Vosne in character. The middle weight flavors possess a beguiling velvety texture yet manage to remain precise and focused on the balanced, deep and lingering finish. This and the Fremières have always been my two favorite Leroy wines at the villages level and the '06 version is an absolute knockout for what it is. (4/ 2008)

90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The Leroy 2006 Vosne-Romanee Aux Genaivrieres smells darkly of blackberry, mossy forest floor, roasted meat, and decadent floral perfume. In terms of fruit freshness, though, this is bright, while also displaying a hint of tannic grit. Its lingering finish returns to the dark side, with intriguing intimations of future complexity, though only time, I think, will reveal how this wine's tannins are resolved. (12/ 2009)

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Medium red. Smoky redcurrant, red cherry and sexy earth tones on the nose. Smooth and suave in the mouth, with ripe acids framing the red fruit and floral flavors. More detailed than the Nuits villages, this wine also has more middle-palate density to support its tannins. Finishes clean, firm and minerally.

2006 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Les Beaux-Monts" $650 (3 per person)

SKU #1117942 95 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

*Don't Miss!* In 2006, the Beaux Monts is perhaps the one wine in the Leroy range that truly exceeds its normal level of excellence with a more elegant and higher-toned nose of anise, soy, hoisin and cinnamon that reside in the layered, cool and relatively reserved blue and black fruit aromas. The detailed, pure, energetic and driving flavors brim with minerality and are underpinned by sophisticated tannins and culminate in simply spectacular length. I love the underlying tension here and this is a stunner of a wine packed with potential but be prepared to wait. Sheer class. (4/ 2008)

93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Smoked meat and dark berries on the nose of the Leroy 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts lead into an expansively rich palate, on which fine-grained tannins are abundantly evident yet adeptly-integrated. The cherry-like fruit here is even sweeter, purer and has a slightly fresher edge than in the Brulees, but despite fascinating carnal and forest floor shadings, there is not quite the same mysterious complexity, at least for now. That the two wines closely resemble one another is perhaps not surprising, since Bize-Leroy explains that they represent one and the same parcel, divided between two lieux dits (12/ 2009)

93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Good bright, deep red. High-pitched aromas of cherry, minerals, smoke and earth, lifted by a peppery nuance; more explosive today than the Brulees. Pure, perfumed and tightly wound, with juicy, perfectly integrated acidity giving precision and detail to the sappy fruit, mineral and floral flavors. The very long, mounting finish features thoroughly enrobed tannins. This really saturates the palate with soil tones and titillates the taste buds. (4/ 2009)

A Sante,

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: Bonneau du Martray

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Burgundy Lovers,

When things arrive, they tend to come in bunches.  Next up on our roster of limited Burgundies is the superb 2010 Bonneau du Martray Coton Charlemagne. 

I had a long and fascinating conversation with the ever-charming and urbane Jean Charles le Bault de la Morinière about past issues with premature oxidation and their viticulture.  They have traceability on their corks, and substantial stocks of older wine.  By opening bottles and checking, they found a pattern of the problem with certain cork suppliers, with whom they no longer work.  In addition, their specifications on corks have tightened up considerably, and they are more carefully monitoring Sulphur levels at bottling. 

The Domaine has been certified Organic since 2003, but concerned over erosion, they changed to biodynamic.viticulture, doing so in a most interesting and scientific way.  They converted ½ of each vineyard to  biodynamic farming and continued organic practices in the other half.  What they saw, according to Jean-Charles, was more aromatic and perfumed vines in the biodynamic section.  But what was even more important, was that they also saw better rain water retention and less erosion in these sections.

Since these vineyards have been in his family for 200 years, Jean-Charles feels that he is only the steward for a time, and that his job is to pass the vineyards along for the future in as healthy a fashion as possible.  His goal is minimal intervention, and to allow the terroir to express itself as clearly as possible.  After tasting seven vintages and talking with Jean-Charles, I came away a believer.

PLEASE EMAIL ME YOUR REQUESTS, AS THESE ARE NOT YET ON THE WEB!!

2010 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, $154.99  LIMIT 3

 Magnums, $319.95  LIMIT 1

96 Parker’s Wine Advocate : « The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne is the epitome of elegance, finesse and refinement in white Burgundy. Readers will have a very, very hard time finding a wine with this much pure class and textural finesse. Smoke, flint, crushed rocks and citrus all flow through to the vibrant, pointed finish. Today, the 2010 is incredibly tight, and needs more time in bottle to soften. It is a dazzling wine endowed with laser-like focus and tons of purity. Anticipated maturity: 2015+.  Antonio Galloni »

94 Points Steven Tanzer : « Pale yellow.  Initially closed nose of lemon drop, anise and wet stone opened with air to show underripe pineapple, spices and wild herbs.  Dense, thick, powerful and dry, with a strong vanillin oak element nicely buffered by an impression of saline extract.  Began a bit warm but aeration brought strong, chewy flavors of chalk and lemon.  Finishes austere, uncompromisingly dry and very long, with superb verve.  All about soil and stone. »

92-95 Points Burghound : » *Don't Miss!* A very subtle hint of wood frames the restrained, airy, cool and very fresh nose of green apple, citrus and lightly spiced pear aromas that introduce intensely mineral-driven flavors that possess a mouth feel of pure silk. There is ample dry extract that buffers well the very firm and bright acidity that supports the transparent, long and refined finish. This is beautifully well-balanced and while it's very early on, this appears that it will reach its apogee somewhat sooner than is typical. »

A Santé,

-Keith

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: 2010 Domaine Eugénie

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

We have tine quantities available of the 2010 Domaine Eugénie wines, on a pre-arrival basis. The progress here since the team from Château Latour took over, and they built their new cuverie is terrific. The wines are due in the first quarter of 2013.

Alan Meadows writes of this domaine: “Château Latour President Frédéric Engerer also directs Domaine Eugénie along with his second in command, régisseur Michel Mallard. As is typically the case, I saw both Engerer and Mallard who told me that 2010 was a vintage of "very low yields, in fact we were off fully 40%. This was due to a combination of factors that included the deep frost of December 19th, 2009 and a troubled flowering. Moreover, there was a high incidence of shot berries as well as a harvest where the berries just didn't have as much juice in them as they typically do. We began picking on the 25th of September and finished on the 28th. The fruit was generally very clean and the vinifications unfolded normally. As to the wines, they are elegant and pure expressions of each of the vineyards with refined supporting tannins and excellent overall quality. We'll see how they develop but for the moment we remain quite optimistic that they will fulfill their early promise." As I noted last year, the Eugénie '09s are also seriously impressive wines and if you haven't yet tried an example from this new domaine, I would highly recommend them.”

Quantities are extremely limited, and these will sell quickly.

These wines are now available on the web, or by calling 800-247-5987 

2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée (Pre-Arrival) Price: $49.95

88-91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "A spicy, ripe, pure and very fresh nose of plum and earth leads to velvety medium-bodied flavors that are very Vosne in character, all wrapped in a vibrant, linear, balanced and solidly complex finish." (1/2012) 87-90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "(in tank awaiting a December bottling; made from the better part of the estate's Brulées holding plus village parcels; 40% new oak): Medium red. Tight nose suggests hard cherry candy and licorice. Then fruity, juicy and sappy in the mouth; not especially fleshy but offers very good breadth. Finishes with good juicy, spicy length." (1/2012)  K&L Notes: Made from Les Communes and Les Vigneux and some parts of Les Brûlées 1er Cru.

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2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée "Clos d'Eugénie" (Pre-Arrival) Price: $64.99

90-92 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Top value! Soft wood spice frames the naturally spicy black cherry and red pinot fruit aromas that complement the delineated, intense and mineral-driven flavors that possess real verve on the delicious and impressively long finish. This is an excellent villages that should reward up to a decade of cellar time." (1/2012) 89-91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "( (the estate traded its Bas Maizière parcel to Bichot for these vines located next to the new winery in Vosne-Romanee):  Musky aromas of redcurrant, smoke, tobacco and earth.  Saline and soil-driven; more sensual and silky than the village wine, but with a firm rocky underpinning.  These vines are not far from La Tâche.”  K&L’s Notes: “This parcel is located just below La Tâche, and adjacent to Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes 1er Cru.”

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2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Aux Brûlées" (Pre-Arrival) Price: $119.99 Limit 3 per person

91-94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Deep red-ruby. Black fruits and musky espresso perked up by pungent minerality. Sweet, fine-grained and deep, with the element of smoky minerality carrying through on the palate. Essentially a gently styled 2010 offering an enticing combination of brisk berry fruit and saline soil tones. The slowly mounting finish displays suave tannins." (1/2012) 91-93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: “Outstanding! A wonderfully fresh and pure spicy black pinot fruit nose of impressive breadth gives way to noticeably firmer and more concentrated middle weight flavors that possess real verve and excellent length. I very much like the sense of harmony and underlying material that should allow this to age effortlessly for years to come. “

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2010 Domaine Eugénie Échézeaux Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $184.99 Limit 1 per person

92-94 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "This is also exuberantly fresh with slightly riper aromas of spiced plum, black cherry and a lovely floral component that merges into silky, even velvety flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration. This is both bigger and richer if perhaps not quite as tension-filled on the long, brooding, somber and moderately austere finish. This should also age and improve effortlessly for the next 12 to 15 years." (1/2012) 91-94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Very bright ruby-red.  Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, coffee and earth; a dark-fruit style of Échézeaux.  Then sweet, sappy and fine-grained on the palate, with terrific energy giving lift to the fruit and soil flavors.  Finishes broad and very long, with a whiplash of flavor and some oak yet to be absorbed .”

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2010 Domaine Eugénie Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $199.95

93-96 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Don't Miss! A deft touch of wood sets off the ripe, dense and quite elegant black cherry aromas that are layered with notes of earth and floral nuances. This is also impressively complex with wonderfully rich, intense and well-structured big-bodied flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract on the mouth coating, balanced, long and extremely serious finish. One difference between this and many youthful examples of the appellation is that there is almost no austerity present on the vibrant backend. This too is absolutely terrific though note that plenty of patience will be required.” 93-96 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: “(a blend of two tanks, one vinified with destemmed fruit, the other with 50% whole clusters):  Red-ruby.  Black cherry, licorice and oaky torrefaction on the nose, lifted by minty and peppery nuances.  Very sweet and energetic on entry, then sappy and gripping in the middle, combining impressive thickness for the year with noteworthy finesse.  Finishes with suave, dusty, fine tannins and subtle notes of spices and wild herbs.  Great potential here.”

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2010 Domaine Eugénie Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $235.00 Limit 1 per person

93-95 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Don't Miss! This takes virtually all of the attributes of the Echézeaux and adds to them simply superb aromatic complexity with notes of violet, rose, plum, black cherry and a plenitude of spice elements. There is gorgeous purity and intensity to the powerful yet refined medium weight plus flavors that are dense, serious and quite firmly structured yet the overall impression is one of harmony with that ineffable quality of power without weight. In a word, terrific." (1/2012) 92-95 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: " Good dark red.  Black raspberry, black cherry, coffee, mocha and sexy oak tones on the nose.  At once brighter and tighter than the Échézeaux, showing more floral lift to the dark raspberry and espresso flavors.  The fruit shades more toward red on the high-pitched finish, which features very fine tannins and excellent subtle persistence.  As with the Échézeaux, which is also aging in 75% new barrels, this will need some time to absorb its oak.” 

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Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com