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One of the most serious English Sparkling producers. This historic estate has been in the Goring family since 1743. The tiny 16-acre vineyard is close-planted on a steep south-facing chalk escarpment described as 'similar to the Côte des Blancs' in Champagne. The fruit is picked very selectively with quality being the absolute focus. The grapes are pressed gently using a traditional Coquard press. After three years on the lees this wine, composed of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay & 22% Pinot Meunier, is hand disgorged and balanced with a minimal dosage of just 4g/L. It has a fine counterbalance between toasty richness and power from the wines élevage in Burgundian French Oak barrels, with racy acidity, tension and a focused chalky minerality.

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Entries in Burgundy (39)

Thursday
Nov152012

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: Bonneau du Martray

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Burgundy Lovers,

When things arrive, they tend to come in bunches.  Next up on our roster of limited Burgundies is the superb 2010 Bonneau du Martray Coton Charlemagne. 

I had a long and fascinating conversation with the ever-charming and urbane Jean Charles le Bault de la Morinière about past issues with premature oxidation and their viticulture.  They have traceability on their corks, and substantial stocks of older wine.  By opening bottles and checking, they found a pattern of the problem with certain cork suppliers, with whom they no longer work.  In addition, their specifications on corks have tightened up considerably, and they are more carefully monitoring Sulphur levels at bottling. 

The Domaine has been certified Organic since 2003, but concerned over erosion, they changed to biodynamic.viticulture, doing so in a most interesting and scientific way.  They converted ½ of each vineyard to  biodynamic farming and continued organic practices in the other half.  What they saw, according to Jean-Charles, was more aromatic and perfumed vines in the biodynamic section.  But what was even more important, was that they also saw better rain water retention and less erosion in these sections.

Since these vineyards have been in his family for 200 years, Jean-Charles feels that he is only the steward for a time, and that his job is to pass the vineyards along for the future in as healthy a fashion as possible.  His goal is minimal intervention, and to allow the terroir to express itself as clearly as possible.  After tasting seven vintages and talking with Jean-Charles, I came away a believer.

PLEASE EMAIL ME YOUR REQUESTS, AS THESE ARE NOT YET ON THE WEB!!

2010 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, $154.99  LIMIT 3

 Magnums, $319.95  LIMIT 1

96 Parker’s Wine Advocate : « The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne is the epitome of elegance, finesse and refinement in white Burgundy. Readers will have a very, very hard time finding a wine with this much pure class and textural finesse. Smoke, flint, crushed rocks and citrus all flow through to the vibrant, pointed finish. Today, the 2010 is incredibly tight, and needs more time in bottle to soften. It is a dazzling wine endowed with laser-like focus and tons of purity. Anticipated maturity: 2015+.  Antonio Galloni »

94 Points Steven Tanzer : « Pale yellow.  Initially closed nose of lemon drop, anise and wet stone opened with air to show underripe pineapple, spices and wild herbs.  Dense, thick, powerful and dry, with a strong vanillin oak element nicely buffered by an impression of saline extract.  Began a bit warm but aeration brought strong, chewy flavors of chalk and lemon.  Finishes austere, uncompromisingly dry and very long, with superb verve.  All about soil and stone. »

92-95 Points Burghound : » *Don't Miss!* A very subtle hint of wood frames the restrained, airy, cool and very fresh nose of green apple, citrus and lightly spiced pear aromas that introduce intensely mineral-driven flavors that possess a mouth feel of pure silk. There is ample dry extract that buffers well the very firm and bright acidity that supports the transparent, long and refined finish. This is beautifully well-balanced and while it's very early on, this appears that it will reach its apogee somewhat sooner than is typical. »

 

A Santé,

-Keith

 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com

 

Thursday
Nov082012

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: 2010 Domaine Eugénie

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

We have tine quantities available of the 2010 Domaine Eugénie wines, on a pre-arrival basis. The progress here since the team from Château Latour took over, and they built their new cuverie is terrific. The wines are due in the first quarter of 2013.

Alan Meadows writes of this domaine: “Château Latour President Frédéric Engerer also directs Domaine Eugénie along with his second in command, régisseur Michel Mallard. As is typically the case, I saw both Engerer and Mallard who told me that 2010 was a vintage of "very low yields, in fact we were off fully 40%. This was due to a combination of factors that included the deep frost of December 19th, 2009 and a troubled flowering. Moreover, there was a high incidence of shot berries as well as a harvest where the berries just didn't have as much juice in them as they typically do. We began picking on the 25th of September and finished on the 28th. The fruit was generally very clean and the vinifications unfolded normally. As to the wines, they are elegant and pure expressions of each of the vineyards with refined supporting tannins and excellent overall quality. We'll see how they develop but for the moment we remain quite optimistic that they will fulfill their early promise." As I noted last year, the Eugénie '09s are also seriously impressive wines and if you haven't yet tried an example from this new domaine, I would highly recommend them.”

 

Quantities are extremely limited, and these will sell quickly.

 

These wines are now available on the web, or by calling 800-247-5987 

 

 

2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée (Pre-Arrival) Price: $49.95

88-91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "A spicy, ripe, pure and very fresh nose of plum and earth leads to velvety medium-bodied flavors that are very Vosne in character, all wrapped in a vibrant, linear, balanced and solidly complex finish." (1/2012) 87-90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "(in tank awaiting a December bottling; made from the better part of the estate's Brulées holding plus village parcels; 40% new oak): Medium red. Tight nose suggests hard cherry candy and licorice. Then fruity, juicy and sappy in the mouth; not especially fleshy but offers very good breadth. Finishes with good juicy, spicy length." (1/2012)  K&L Notes: Made from Les Communes and Les Vigneux and some parts of Les Brûlées 1er Cru.


2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée "Clos d'Eugénie" (Pre-Arrival) Price: $64.99

90-92 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Top value! Soft wood spice frames the naturally spicy black cherry and red pinot fruit aromas that complement the delineated, intense and mineral-driven flavors that possess real verve on the delicious and impressively long finish. This is an excellent villages that should reward up to a decade of cellar time." (1/2012) 89-91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "( (the estate traded its Bas Maizière parcel to Bichot for these vines located next to the new winery in Vosne-Romanee):  Musky aromas of redcurrant, smoke, tobacco and earth.  Saline and soil-driven; more sensual and silky than the village wine, but with a firm rocky underpinning.  These vines are not far from La Tâche.”  K&L’s Notes: “This parcel is located just below La Tâche, and adjacent to Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes 1er Cru.”


2010 Domaine Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Aux Brûlées" (Pre-Arrival) Price: $119.99 Limit 3 per person

91-94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Deep red-ruby. Black fruits and musky espresso perked up by pungent minerality. Sweet, fine-grained and deep, with the element of smoky minerality carrying through on the palate. Essentially a gently styled 2010 offering an enticing combination of brisk berry fruit and saline soil tones. The slowly mounting finish displays suave tannins." (1/2012) 91-93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: “Outstanding! A wonderfully fresh and pure spicy black pinot fruit nose of impressive breadth gives way to noticeably firmer and more concentrated middle weight flavors that possess real verve and excellent length. I very much like the sense of harmony and underlying material that should allow this to age effortlessly for years to come.


2010 Domaine Eugénie Échézeaux Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $184.99 Limit 1 per person

92-94 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "This is also exuberantly fresh with slightly riper aromas of spiced plum, black cherry and a lovely floral component that merges into silky, even velvety flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration. This is both bigger and richer if perhaps not quite as tension-filled on the long, brooding, somber and moderately austere finish. This should also age and improve effortlessly for the next 12 to 15 years." (1/2012) 91-94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Very bright ruby-red.  Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, coffee and earth; a dark-fruit style of Échézeaux.  Then sweet, sappy and fine-grained on the palate, with terrific energy giving lift to the fruit and soil flavors.  Finishes broad and very long, with a whiplash of flavor and some oak yet to be absorbed .”


2010 Domaine Eugénie Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $199.95

93-96 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Don't Miss! A deft touch of wood sets off the ripe, dense and quite elegant black cherry aromas that are layered with notes of earth and floral nuances. This is also impressively complex with wonderfully rich, intense and well-structured big-bodied flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract on the mouth coating, balanced, long and extremely serious finish. One difference between this and many youthful examples of the appellation is that there is almost no austerity present on the vibrant backend. This too is absolutely terrific though note that plenty of patience will be required.” 93-96 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: “(a blend of two tanks, one vinified with destemmed fruit, the other with 50% whole clusters):  Red-ruby.  Black cherry, licorice and oaky torrefaction on the nose, lifted by minty and peppery nuances.  Very sweet and energetic on entry, then sappy and gripping in the middle, combining impressive thickness for the year with noteworthy finesse.  Finishes with suave, dusty, fine tannins and subtle notes of spices and wild herbs.  Great potential here.”


2010 Domaine Eugénie Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru (Pre-Arrival) Price: $235.00 Limit 1 per person

93-95 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Don't Miss! This takes virtually all of the attributes of the Echézeaux and adds to them simply superb aromatic complexity with notes of violet, rose, plum, black cherry and a plenitude of spice elements. There is gorgeous purity and intensity to the powerful yet refined medium weight plus flavors that are dense, serious and quite firmly structured yet the overall impression is one of harmony with that ineffable quality of power without weight. In a word, terrific." (1/2012) 92-95 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: " Good dark red.  Black raspberry, black cherry, coffee, mocha and sexy oak tones on the nose.  At once brighter and tighter than the Échézeaux, showing more floral lift to the dark raspberry and espresso flavors.  The fruit shades more toward red on the high-pitched finish, which features very fine tannins and excellent subtle persistence.  As with the Échézeaux, which is also aging in 75% new barrels, this will need some time to absorb its oak.” 


 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com

 

Friday
Nov022012

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: Domaine Odoul-Coquard

Sébastien Odoul (right) with his father and the Coquard brothers.

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

I am excited to share with you our newest discovery in Burgundy, Domaine Odoul-Coquard.  Young Sébastien Odoul was trained at wine school, and has an elegant style and loves to work in the vineyard, with minimal intervention in the cellar, in order to reveal the terroir of individual sites. Our first purchase was limited to just five wines, but you will not want to miss these wines. I think he is destined for much more fame than he has at present. 

 

2009 Domaine Odoul-Coquard Nuits-St-Georges "Aux St. Jacques"       Price: $43.99

This vineyard is on the North side of Nuits, on the border with Vosne Romanee, just a bit south of Vosne Romanee Aux Reas. This has the rich and charming fruit and concentration you expect of the site and the terrific vintage. It has a black fruited character, with a succulent texture and lovely finish. What's not to like? (Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy Buyer, 03/12) . 


2010 Domaine Odoul-Coquard Morey St. Denis "Les Crais Gillon"         Price: $47.99  

This single vineyard Morey comes from a vineyard with fairly deep, well-drained soil, towards the Gevrey side of the village. The domaine farms 0.5Ha, and in 2010 harvested a tiny 14 Hl/Ha, extremely low yield, due in large part to the planting of older pinot fin vines, with extremely tiny berries. It shows rich fruit, focus and a bit of meatiness on the finish. This has lots of both charm and character, and even the recent bottling could not hide the charming fruit.. (Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy Buyer, 03/12) 


2010 Domaine Odoul-Coquard Chambolle Musigny            Price: $49.95

This comes from a vineyard not far from the Morey border, just below Les Baudes, 1er Cru. It has pretty red fruit notes as the first impression, followed by a recognition of the lovely subtle texture of this wine. The tannins are round and very well-robed in character. Overall, this is charming, attractive, and very much has a lovely Chambolle style, with both richness and elegance. It is, quite simply, lovely. (Keith Wollenberg, 03/12) 


2010 Domaine Odoul-Coquard Morey St. Denis 1er Cru "Les Millandes"          Price: $69.95

This is one of my favorite vineyards in Morey (Grand Crus included!). It is always a bit more supple than the Grands Crus, and more feminine in character. This has a supple and lovely mouthfeel, with terrific energy and drive. The tannins are extremely fine in character, and very well-robed. This is solid and rich, without being at all blocky or backwards. Bravo. (Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy Buyer, 03/12) 


2010 Domaine Odoul-Coquard Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru "Les Baudes"     Price: $74.99

Chambolle Les Baudes lies directly below Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, and tends to make a firmer styled wine. But this may be the exception that proves that rule, since it has lovely rich red fruit, an elegant character and a long finish. It shows rich and pretty raspberry and cherry notes and can only be Chambolle. Bravo, Sébastien! Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy Buyer (03/12) 


Á Santé

-Keith

 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com 

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