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One of the most serious English Sparkling producers. This historic estate has been in the Goring family since 1743. The tiny 16-acre vineyard is close-planted on a steep south-facing chalk escarpment described as 'similar to the Côte des Blancs' in Champagne. The fruit is picked very selectively with quality being the absolute focus. The grapes are pressed gently using a traditional Coquard press. After three years on the lees this wine, composed of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay & 22% Pinot Meunier, is hand disgorged and balanced with a minimal dosage of just 4g/L. It has a fine counterbalance between toasty richness and power from the wines élevage in Burgundian French Oak barrels, with racy acidity, tension and a focused chalky minerality.

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Entries in Comtes Lafon (1)

Thursday
Oct062011

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: Pristine Older Burgundies from the Cellars of Comtes Lafon!

Keith Wollenberg

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

keithw@klwines.com

 

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

Today I am excited to offer you some older red and white Burgs acquired directly from the cellars of Domaine des Comtes Lafon.  If you love older Burgundy (and who doesn’t?), or want to know where the wine has been all its life (and who doesn’t?), then this offer should interest you.

These wines come directly from Dominique Lafon’s cellar, where they have rested quietly since bottling.  They were shipped over in a refrigerated container, and are arriving next week to K&L.

As you would expect, quantities are EXTREMELY limited on all of these wines.  In some cases, we have only a bottle (or magnum) or two to offer.

Please email me your request, and I’ll do the best I can, with what little wine we have.  There are a couple of cases of some of the Volnays and only a bottle or two of some others.

 

The Red Wines:

1990 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chênes", $225.00

          Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition!  Parker writes: "The 1990 Volnay-Clos des Chênes is a wine with a thick, dark ruby color, as well as a huge nose of super-ripe, jammy cherries, spices, and minerals. It is long, rich, full-bodied, and brilliantly well-balanced. The finish exhibits considerable tannin, so be prepared to lay this wine away for 4-5 years. It should keep for several decades. Sadly, only 100 cases were produced. And you thought this man only made extraordinary Meursaults! I have long admired the red wines of Comte Lafon, but they are less renowned than the magnificent white burgundies that emerge from these cold cellars. The 1990 Lafon reds are the finest I have tasted from this domaine." (12/92)

 

1990 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Champans", $239.95

            Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition! 91 Points Robert Parker: "The 1990 Volnay-Champans, made from 69-year old vines (150 cases produced), reveals a saturated, opaque ruby/purple color. The sensational nose offers up aromas of over-ripe cherries and plums, as well as toasty, smoky oak and roasted herbs. Boldly flavored and super-concentrated, this rich, dense wine manages to retain an extraordinary degree of elegance despite its size and stature. The finish is long, moderately tannic, and pure. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2015. " (12/92)

 

1990 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots", $269.95

          Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition!  94 points from Parker "Comte Lafon's spectacular 1990 Volnay Les Santenots retains a dense dark ruby color as well as stunning aromatics of cherry liqueur, minerals, spice box, and vanillin. Fleshy, full-bodied, muscular, youthful, and vigorous, this exuberant, stunningly proportioned and concentrated red Burgundy can be drunk now, but it will benefit from another 1-2 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015" (02/02)

 

Large Format Bottles :  All Large formats are limited to one per person, as we have only 2 Magnums of each!!

 

1993 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots-Du-Milieu" (1.5L), $350 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

            Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition!  Allen Meadows scores this 92 and  writes: "Dominique Lafon is justifiably famous for his white wines but he has a deft touch with his reds as well and this is an excellent example. Wonderfully pure and spicy fruit and while not as primary as it was on release, it appears to have only barely budged. The flavors are deep, rich, concentrated and very long. An exceptionally fine effort that will require at least another 5 years in the cellar and perhaps more."(Burghound 10/01)

 

1995 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots-Du-Milieu" (1.5L), $330 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

            Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition!  Allen Meadows writes: "This is by far the best of the three Lafon Volnay 1ers in 1995 with a stunningly gorgeous nose of elegance and purity that is mostly if not completely primary, offering seductive red and violet fruit aromas before introducing vibrant and rich medium weight flavors that possess very good phenolic ripeness for the vintage and excellent length. To be sure, this is not a truly great Lafon Santenots but in the context of a highly variable vintage, it's a very fine effort and one that could still use another two to three years of cellar time.|" (Burghound 07/08)

 

1996 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots-Du-Milieu" (1.5L), $399 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

          Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in refrigerated containers, in perfect condition!  Allen Meadows writes: "Though this has always had a wonderfully sweet red and black fruit and still does, the aromas are beginning to take on subtle secondary notes. The middle weight flavors are delicious, pure, edgy and possess evident breed though the finish is a bit short as the acidity has begun to become much more evident. While this should be capable of living for years, I would be inclined to be drinking it over the next 5 years or so as the finish risks drying out as the acidity is no longer subtle if not actually intrusive or harsh. Consistent notes." (Burghound 02/08)

 

1999 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots-Du-Milieu" (1.5L), $499 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

            Direct from Comte Lafon, in perfect condition! 94 Allen Meadows: While the Clos des Chênes performed as expected relative to the cask sample, the final Santenots was even better than the cask sample. Wonderfully expressive with massive amounts of spicy black fruit and seductive flavors; the wine has an enormous amount of underlying material and is incredibly complex. But it's the length that that defines this wine as it simply goes on and on. It's not hard to see why Lafon believes this is one of the finest wines ever produced at the Domaine. Simply magnificent" (04/02) 94 Tanzer,: "Saturated medium ruby. Explosive, profound aromas of redcurrant, cherry and dark chocolate, complicated by enticing oak tones of smoke and exotic spices. Superripe but not roasted; superrich but impeccably balanced and lively. Red fruit flavors nicely accented by chocolate and minerals. Finishes with terrific persistence. ... Perhaps the most complete red wine made to date by Lafon" (04/02)  Rovani: "This is Volnay as it should be, combining the ripeness and power of Pommard with the definition and elegance of a stony, hillside terroir. Violets, blueberries, and dark cherries make up this muscular yet refined wine's aromatic and flavor profiles. It is medium to full-bodied, has exceptional length, and will improve with age. I had it decanted each time I drank it and found it ameliorated with two hours of air, a sure sign that cellaring it for 10 years will pay huge dividends." (01/03)

 

2001 Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots-Du-Milieu" (1.5L), $249 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

            Direct from Comte Lafon, in perfect condition! Allen Meadows writes: " trace of oak frames a tighter and less expressive nose of earth, black cherry fruit and kirsch notes followed by complex, long and beautifully intense flavors that deliver impressive concentration. Delicious yet serious and this is most impressive by comparison to most of the examples from this vineyard in 2001. The harmony and balance should permit this to mature gracefully over the medium term." (04/04)  And in Parker's Wine Advocate: "Candied black cherries can be found in the nose of the 2001 Volnay Santenots du Milieu. Light to medium-bodied, it offers gorgeous purity of fruit, excellent depth, and a silky-textured core of cherries. Projected maturity: now-2009. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage." And Tanzer says: "Good full red. Deeper, riper aromas of plum, cherry and licorice, with hints of rose petal and leather; pure and nuanced for a Volnay from this difficult year. Fat, sweet and rich, with nicely integrated acidity and solid underlying structure. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins and lingering sweetness" (04/04)

 

White Wines :

2000 Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault "'Désirée'", $149.95

            This comes from Volnay Santenots Dessous, from old vines before they were torn out in 2005.  Allen Meadows writes: "This has remained extremely fresh and pretty with the same spicy, fresh, clean and nicely complex nose leading to still tight, almost nervous and vibrant medium weight flavors that are underpinned by racy, ripe acidity and a beautifully persistent finish. This is really a lovely effort and I have marginally raised my rating. As to maturity, I would be inclined to give this one to two more years in the cellar first as it's still unfolding." (8/06)  Parker writes: "The medium to full-bodied 2000 Meursault Desiree has a sweet white fruit and candied lemon-scented nose. Citrus fruits, gravel, minerals, and stones can be found in this medium to full-bodied wine's well-defined personality"  And Tanzer writes: "Soft citrus fruits on the tangy nose. At once richer and less evolved than the regular village wine, with soft citrus flavors nicely framed by firm acid structure. Intensely flavored, tightly wound and quite stylish, with very good length. The pH here is in the rather low 3.15 to 3.2 range, according to Lafon." (09/02)

 

1998 Domaine Comtes Lafon Montrachet Grand Cru, $649 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON

          Steve Tanzer scores this 92-95, writing: "Roasted aromas of vanilla and iodine. Thick, sweet and minerally; not quite as round as the '97 but a wine of superb flavor intensity and texture. Already displays lovely inner-mouth fruit and floral perfume. Very densely packed, fresh and long. Will be a superb '98, and should offer early accessibility" (10/99)  Parker scores it 91-94, and writes: "Dominique Lafon's parcel of Montrachet produced his highest yields (30 hectoliters per hectare) in 1998. Four and a half barrels of this magnificent nectar were made. Harvested at 14% natural potential alcohol, it reveals pears, peaches, apricots, and flowers in its intense aromatic profile.  Medium to full-bodied, expansive, and palate-coating, this elegant, classy, and rich wine is crammed with spices, white fruits, and minerals. It has outstanding presence, detail, and focus. It is not a muscular wine, yet possesses extraordinary underlying power in its precise character. This tour de force has an extraordinarily long, delineated, and mineral-laden finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2012+."

 

2000 Domaine Comtes Lafon Montrachet Grand Cru, $1599 LIMIT 1 PER PERSON 

            Direct from the cellars of Comte Lafon, shipped in a refrigerated container, in perfect condition!  96 Points Burghound: "Moderately deep golden color. A fascinatingly complex nose offers up aromas of pear, peach, oriental spice, cinnamon, nutmeg, rosemary and a background note of dried sage that is followed by flavors that are concentrated, rich and muscular but not especially showy. This does a slow build from the mid-palate to an incredibly intense finish that literally lasts for minutes. This will need another 2 to 5 years to be at its best though it will drink well for at least another decade after it reaches its peak. Another recent bottle was drop-dead gorgeous and while this hasn't yet peaked, it has developed enough to be already quite enjoyable." (06/09)

 

A Santé

Keith

 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

keithw@klwines.com

KLWines.com