I have a love/hate relationship with Thanksgiving. I love the concept--an entire day devoted to gratitude, friends and family --and I love the food...mostly. You see, for me the problem with Thanksgiving is that there's too much food. Don't get me wrong, I love a big family feast, but the modern Thanksgiving meal often seems a little disjointed, a bunch of random dishes made to satisfy one person or another, all piled on a plate, but not always complementary. That makes finding the right Thanksgiving wine as hard as proving what the Pilgrims actually ate. Too bad America's best known historic oenophile Thomas Jefferson never weighed in on the subject.