By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer
Hello Burgundy Lovers,
We just received confirmation on our allocation of 2011 Domaine d’Eugenie wines. This is the domaine (formerly Domaine René Engel) now owned by the folks at Château Latour. They purchased the old Clos Frantin buildings in Vosne Romanée and have renovated the cuverie, putting in new wooden fermenters and are renovating the historic property. They have an unswerving commitment to making the finest Burgundy they can. The improvement each year under the watchful eye of Michel Mallard has been extraordinary.
They are gradually taking the domaine biodynamic, and so far the Clos d’Eugénie, the Vosne 1er Cru and the Échézeaux are entirely biodynamic. No weed-killers are used anywhere, as plowing is preferred. This is a domaine that will, almost certainly, rise to the top ranks. We get these directly from the Domaine, import them in refrigerated containers, and offer them at very good prices. These are being offered on a Pre-Arrival Basis, with arrival expected about January 2014.
The wines are on the Web and available there, or by calling 1-800-247-5987, or emailing me. As always, quantities are limited, of course.
89-91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
Outstanding! A spicy, ripe, fresh and elegant nose of black cherry and cassis leads to energetic, detailed and velvety middle weight flavors that possess a lovely inner mouth perfume before culminating in a balanced and lingering finish. This is not only very Vosne but very promising as well. (1/ 2013)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(tasted from cuve, where it was awaiting a December bottling; a blend of three parcels, including the bottom section of Brulees, which director Frederic Engerer and winemaker Mallard do not consider to be of true premier cru quality): Medium red. Redcurrant and strawberry liqueur on the slightly dull nose and palate. A bit dry and lean today, showing modest density and sweetness to its red fruit and smoke flavors. Finishes with a suggestion of autumn leaves. I wanted more verve. (1/ 2013)
From Les Communes, Les Vigneux, and the lower portion of Aux Brulées which they declassify.
89-91 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
There is enough wood to notice on the ripe nose where the fruit is shaded more toward the red side though there are nuances of spiced plum, violet and black raspberry as well. The flavor profile is different as well with more precision and detail if not the seductive velour quality to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors, all wrapped in a lacy, balanced and lightly mineral-infused finish. This is notably different from the straight Vosne cuvée though not necessarily better. (1/ 2013)
87-90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(vinified with one-third whole clusters, for the first time): Good deep red. Aromas of red- and blackcurrant, pepper and licorice, plus a strong element of smoky oak. Juicy, spicy and nicely fine-grained, with ripe, moderately dense purple fruit flavors enlivened by harmonious acidity. Finishes classically dry, subtle and persistent, with a saline minerality. (1/ 2013)
A monopole of the Domaine, below La Tâche and next to Vosne Romanée les Chaumes 1er Cru.
90-92 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
Here the nose mixes oak spice with natural spice though the fruit is somewhat muted by the presence of mild reduction. There is lovely mid-palate concentration to the delicious and seductively textured flavors that are supported by very fine-grained tannins as well as an appealing minerality on the clean and ultra-pure finish. There is only average complexity at present though the underlying material is certainly present to allow more to develop and my predicted range presupposes that development. (1/ 2013)
89-92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(25% vendange entier; was racked last spring following its malolactic fermentation as "it always gets reduced," according to Mallard): Good dark red with ruby tones. A whiff of reduction dissipated to reveal redcurrant and pungent rocky aromas. Silky on the attack, then sweet, plush and intense in the middle, with musky redcurrant, raspberry and smoked meat flavors complicated by pepper, herbs and iodine. A bit more masculine on the back end, finishing with firm but suave tannins and lingering notes of dark berries and minerals. (1/ 2013)
From a parcel just over 1 hectare in size, from vines of over 60 years of age.
92-95 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
Don't Miss! An exceptionally spicy nose of very fresh black pinot fruit, cassis and discreet earthy nuances gives way to wonderfully pure middle weight flavors that also possess admirably fine-grained tannins on the seductively textured and impressively persistent finish. Like the Brûlées this is not as complex at present as my predicted range suggests that it might be in time. In sum, the overall impression here is consistent with what one would expect from an Echézeaux coming from En Orveaux, which is to say a wine of finesse and refinement. (1/ 2013)
93-95 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(25% vendange entier): Good bright red with ruby tones. Precise aromas of black cherry, licorice and herbs. Spicy and penetrating on the palate; a bit strict but offers a great combination of sweetness and minerality. At once classy and powerful, finishing with a lingering element of saline minerality and firm, noble tannins that saturate the entire mouth. (1/ 2013)
60 year old vines, in an almost 1.5ha parcel high in the center of the vineyard, not far from the Chateau.
91-93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
An exceptionally spicy nose of very fresh black pinot fruit, cassis and discreet earthy nuances gives way to wonderfully pure middle weight flavors that also possess admirably fine-grained tannins on the seductively textured and impressively persistent finish. Like the Brûlées this is not as complex at present as my predicted range suggests that it might be in time. In sum, the overall impression here is consistent with what one would expect from an Echézeaux coming from En Orveaux, which is to say a wine of finesse and refinement. (1/ 2013)
91-93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Ruby-red. Perfumed, inviting aromas of bitter chocolate, blood orange and Moroccan spices. Round, concentrated and ripe, with sappy density to the flavors of dark fruits and spices. This is much easier to taste today than the Brulees. Finishes with sweet, ripe, even tannins and excellent length. Should be superb. (1/ 2013)
From a parcel about 1/2 hectare in size, located in en Orveaux, high on the hill, just across a tiny valley from Musigny, at the same elevation.
92-94 points Allen Meadows - Burghound
Reduction renders the nose impossible to properly evaluate but there is good freshness and verve to the broad-shouldered, powerful and tautly muscular flavors yet the robust character is softened by the same very fine-grained tannins that all of the prior wines display. I very much like the quality of the underlying material and while the tannins may be refined, they're also dense and this will clearly require extended cellar time to arrive at its full potential. (1/ 2013)
92-94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(one-third vendange entier): Good full red. Perfumed aromas of bitter chocolate, licorice, violet and minerals. Much tighter and more imploded than the Echezeaux, showing taut dark berry and mineral flavors. Best today on the peacock's tail of a finish, where dark berry and saline mineral flavors spread out to saturate the mouth. This very suave, rather feminine wine needs a lot of air, and will probably be best after five or six years of aging. (1/ 2013)
From 20-60 year old vines on the southern side of Grands Échézeaux.
Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG
Directeur Commercial Bourgogne
K&L Wine Merchants
+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line