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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Entries in josef rosch (1)

Wednesday
Sep222010

Wine Wednesday: 2009 Josef Rosch Riesling Trocken

Repeat after me. "Not all Rieslings are sweet. Not all German wines are sweet. I will not dismiss all German wine or all Riesling because I don't like sweet wine."

This seems like a silly exercise, I know. But next to rosé, I don't think there's a more misunderstood wine than Riesling. People dismiss Riesling outright, swatting bottles away like they were an irritating housefly instead of fine wine from a noble grape. And while I also don't think anyone should assume that all wines with residual sugar are bad (see last week's post about pairing a Kabinett-style Riesling with spicy Indian-style chickpeas), I'm not going to attempt to get anyone to embrace Auslese here. No, what I'm talking about this Wine Wednesday is racy, aromatic, spicy, DRY Riesling. Let me repeat: D-R-Y dry Riesling.

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