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Château de Brézé has a long and storied history, first being mentioned in texts in 1068, lauded by King René of Anjou in the 15th century and served at all the royal courts. In 1957, when the AOC of Saumur Champigny was established, the owner of Château de Brézé refused to be part of the appellation, saying that his estate's vineyards were the best and deserved an appellation all their own. And he was probably right. Unfortunately, the wines from those exceptional vineyards were terrible. Lucky for us, the winery sold in 2009 to Le Comte de Colbert, who recruited Arnaud Lambert from nearby Domaine de Saint Just to make the wine. He changed the vineyards over to organic farming and began producing truly stellar wines worthy of their source. The 2012 Château de Brézé Clos David is all estate-grown Chenin Blanc raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness. It has the slightly-oxidized note of a great White Burgundy and a lovely richness that allows it to pair with a variety of foods.

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Entries in latkes (1)

Friday
Dec032010

Food-Pairing Friday: Latkes!

It's not Hanukkah without latkes. Crispy and delicious, I've long resisted my mother's attempts at making them healthy. Recipes with sweet potatoes or yams might taste good to the sweet-tooth American palate, but they're not latkes.

I make mine with Yukon Gold potatoes, which are starchy, but more flavorful than Russets, shredded into fine strands that I then salt, drain of all their liquid, mix with a little egg, onion and flour and fry in olive oil until they're the color of honey. This year I'm going to top them with tangy creme fraiche andsavory homemade Goldrush applesauce, a slight tweak to a classic recipe by Suzanne Tracht of Jar

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