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Entries in Monthelie (2)

Tuesday
Apr232013

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: 2010 Comtes Lafons 

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

Our usual tiny quantities of the Domaine des Comtes Lafon wines arrive next week, and I wanted to give you all first crack at them.

Please email me, and I’ll do my best to allocate the wines. As always, we have fewer bottles than we have demand, so I cannot promise to even give you the allocation, since we have so few bottles, but I’ll do what I can.

These are NOT YET here, so PLEASE EMAIL YOUR WISHES

The Reds:

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Monthelie 1er Cru "Les Duresses", $61.99  3 per person

            89-91 Burghound : This is earthier and most aromatically rustic compared to its Volnay stable mates with a pungent nose of warm earth, underbrush and cassis. There is fine volume to the relatively full-bodied flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel as the supporting tannins are well-integrated on the persistent finish. Lovely. 

            89 Tanzer : Good deep, bright red.  Sexy oak spices, mint and menthol on the nose.  Sweet, round and deep, with lovely vinosity giving shape and lift to the dark cherry and spice flavors.  Offers excellent texture and palate presence for Monthelie.

 

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay, $84.99 2 per person

            89-91 Burghound : An elegant, pure and attractively complex nose of ripe violet, plum, spice and earth hints precedes the rich, round and nicely voluminous medium-bodied flavors that possess the same solid depth as the nose, all wrapped in a balanced and persistent finish. This will certainly age if desired but there is enough mid-palate fat such that this should please those readers who elect to pop their bottles when they're still on the young side.

            89 Tanzer : (bottled in May of 2012; all of the Lafon 2010s were bottled beween April and July of 2012 owing to their late malolactic fermentations):  Good deep red.  Deep aromas of blueberry compote and smoke, with suggestions of superripe fruits.  Thick and sweet in the mouth, with moderate nuance but plenty of energy.  Finishes with slowly building length and suave tannins supported by the wine's impressive stuffing.

 

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots du Milieu", $145.00 2 per person

from 40+ year old vines planted in shallow, high clay content soil sitting on a bed of solid rock

            94 Burghound: Outstanding! As was the case from cask, moderate reduction still renders the nose difficult to assess though it does not seem so severe as to suggest that it's permanent; in any event my score clearly offers the benefit of the doubt that it is not. There is plenty of energy and punch to the rich, concentrated and utterly delicious flavors that are at once generous but beautifully delineated before culminating in a balanced, explosive and gorgeously long finish. The amount of underlying material is truly impressive and the firm tannins are already well-integrated as the buffering sap almost makes them invisible. Again, assuming that the reduction isn't a longer-term issue, this should be one of the great vintages for this storied wine.

94 Tanzer:  Saturated red-ruby.  Briary dark and red berries are complicated by chocolate and smoky soil tones on the nose.  Hugely rich, creamy and seamless, with wild small red berries and smoke dominating.  Excellent balance and breed here; ethereal but at the same time sharply delineated.  Rich, smooth tannins come on late and are thoroughly buffered by the wine's fruit.

 

 

The Whites:

 

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault, $109.95 1 per person

from a blend of fruit that includes parcels of villages vines in En la Barre and Luraule plus the usual declassified juice from young vines Genevrières and Charmes

            89-91 Burghound: Outstanding! This is restrained to the point of being almost mute at present and only aggressive swirling manages to liberate the most grudging of glimpses of what appear to be scents of apple, pear and almost invisible hazelnut and floral hints. By contrast the middle weight flavors are almost exuberant with excellent precision and punch to the lightly mineral-inflected and solidly well-concentrated finish. Lovely for its level.

            91 Tanzer: (bottled in April):  Good bright straw-yellow color.  Stone fruits, spices and hazelnut on the nose, plus a whiff of exotic fruits.  Sweet, dense and quite ripe but not at all heavy, offering lovely floral lift as well as a hint of reduction to the apricot and peach flavors.

 

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault "Clos de la Barre", $129.95 2 per person

            92 Tanzer : (bottled in April):  Fruit-driven aromas of peach, apricot, pear and flowers.  Then juicy and tight in the mouth, with strong citrussy acidity leavening the wine's mid-palate sweetness.  The long, peachy finish shows lovely finesse for this bottling.

            89-92 Burghound : Outstanding! Thibodaux indicated that this had just been fined before my arrival and as such the nose was difficult to read. By contrast there was good richness to the round, delicious and impressively well-concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent volume yet no lack of detail on the balanced and wonderfully long finish. A terrific villages and even a touch better than its usual outstanding quality.

 

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes", $209.95 1 per person

a blend of fruit coming from 35+ and 75+ year old vines all in Charmes Dessus, which is the best part directly below Perrières and abutting Combettes

            93+ Points Tanzer: (bottled four days before my visit):  Deep aromas of fresh apricot, orange creamsicle, vanilla and spices.  Big, concentrated and rich, displaying more power and weight today than the Genevrières.  Dense and silky-sweet but a bit shocked by the bottling and not currently showing the precision or length of the last sample.  But this is still long on the aftertaste.  Lafon notes that this wine will become more floral as it settles down in the bottle. 93(+?) points

            91-94 Burghound: Outstanding!  A discreet but not invisible touch of wood sets off a highly layered nose of pear, citrus, rose petal and equally discreet spice notes. There is a subtle minerality to the energetic, delineated and concentrated flavors that possess superb depth and even better length on the explosive, balanced and bone dry finish. This should amply reward a decade or more of cellar time.

 

A Santé,

-Keith

 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com

 

 

Wednesday
Apr182012

Keith's Burgundy Hotline: 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon!

By: Keith Wollenberg | K&L Burgundy Buyer

Hello Burgundy Lovers,

The 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon wines have arrived.  We have very limited quantities of any single wine (by which I mean bottles not cases), and THEY ARE ON THE WEB, so they will go quickly.  You can go to www.klwines.com. Or call 800-247-5987 to place an order.

The Reds:

2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Monthelie 1er Cru "Les Duresses" $54.99

89 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2009 Monthelie Les Duresses is, as expected, juicier and riper than the cooler 2008, yet every bit as compelling. Radiant fruit caresses the palate through to the finish. This is a great introduction to the wines of Dominique Lafon. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019." (5/2011)Allen Meadows - Burghound: "A ripe, fresh and attractively spiced nose of violets, plum and red berry fruit aromas leads to rich and relatively full-bodied flavors that possess fine volume and good if not special length. This could easily be drunk now." (5/2011) 


2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay $73.99 Limit of 4 per customer

92 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2009 Volnay is made from young vines in Santenots. It shows terrific energy and vibrancy in a totally seductive expression of Volnay. The fruit builds beautifully through to the creamy, generous texture. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021." (5/2011)89 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Oustanding. This is also quite fresh and notably ripe with notes of blue and black berry, violets and warm earth hints that transfer over to the detailed and lightly mineral-suffused medium-weight flavors that possess good dry extract and a vibrant, focused, balanced and lingering finish. A lovely villages.... Read More » 


2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots du Milieu"  $129.95  Limit of 4 per customer

91-93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "This possesses the ripest nose of the group with cassis and pinot liqueur aromas dissolving into rich, mouth coating and relatively muscular flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract with lovely detail on the impressively complex and persistent finish. This should reward up to a decade of cellar time." (5/2011)92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "(aged in 35% new oak): Good deep red-ruby. Black plum, black cherry and chocolate on the nose. Superrich and sweet; a real fruit bomb of dark cherry and raspberry, but a firm spine of acids and tannins keeps it lively on the palate. Compl... Read More » 


The Whites:

 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault   : $99.95  Limit of 2 per customer

90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Medium straw-yellow. Complex nose melds stone fruits, flowers, honey and hazelnut. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with a perfumed orange blossom quality giving the wine a light touch. Finishes suave, harmonious and persistent. Lovely village wine." (10/2011)Allen Meadows - Burghound: "A ripe and fresh mildly exotic nose speaks of pear, apricot and lemon nuances that lead to rich and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors that display fine detail on the reasonably persistent finish." (2/2011)Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2009 Meursault is a classy, understated wine laced with white peaches, pears and flowers.... Read More » 


2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault "Clos de la Barre"  $124.99  Limit of 3 per customer

91-93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "From a tank sample taken just prior to the fining: Bright, pale yellow-green. Grapefruit and lemon ice on the nose, plus a whiff of white truffle. Edgy lemony acidity gives shape to the palate and carries the finish. A second sample, taken after the fining: Bright pale yellow. Subtly perfumed nose hints at lemon ice. Juicy and pure but a bit sharper than the first sample, showing excellent precision to the lemon zest flavors. A very site-driven sample that finishes with a salty nuance and noteworthy cut and length. I like what the fining has ac... Read More » 


2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru "Goutte d'Or"   $195.00  Limit of 1 per customer

90-92 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "An overtly ripe nose speaks of hazelnut, white peach, pear and soft spice notes that merge seamlessly into rich, full-bodied and broad-scaled flavors that brim with an abundance of extract that confers a textured mouth feel onto the intense, powerful and muscular finish." (2/2011)91-92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Sample taken before fining: Pale straw-yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of ripe peach and honey. Chewy and sweet but restrained on the palate, with excellent density and energy to the zippy stone fruit flavors. Finishes dry and classic, with palate-coating persistence. The same... Read More » 


2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes"   $195.00  Limit of 1 per customer 

92-94 points Allen Meadows - Burghound: "Aromatically, this is almost a hypothetical blend of the Genevrières and the Goutte d'Or but here there is even more intensity to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that evidence really lovely purity of expression on the explosive and driving finish. This is clearly a Charmes from the upper part of the vineyard as there is none of the borderline excessive generosity of the lower portion." (2/2011)94 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "(bottled ten days before my visit): Very closed, slightly reduced nose offers citrus fruits, vanilla, hazelnut and white truffle. Rich, sweet, pliant ... Read More » 


A santé,

-Keith

 

Mr. Keith WOLLENBERG

Directeur Commercial Bourgogne

K&L Wine Merchants

http://www.klwines.com

+1-650-556-2724 Direct Line

Keithw@klwines.com