Spanish & Portuguese Wine News 1/5/12: Delicious, obscure Portuguese wines...plus Rioja and Ribera Del Duero Tastings this Saturday in all K&L locations!

By: Joe Manekin | K&L Spanish and Portuguese Wine Buyer

Greetings Iberiophiles,

Short post this week as we assess what new stuff we need after the busy season.  I have a delicious, somewhat obscure pair of wine suggestions this week, from the sandy pre-phylloxera vineyards of the Colares region outside of Lisboa, Portugal. Ramisco is the grape variety, and the two wines below show a distinctive intense, ever so slightly rustic quality, paired with enough fruit and the sort of fresh profile that makes you wonder out loud: "I can't believe this is Portugal!"  Not that Portugal is incapable of producing fresh, balanced, lower alcohol red wines. In fact, wines such as these help to readily disprove that point.

The first of these two wines is from relatively younger vines, with less fruit intensity but lovely balance.  And the second, bottled as a 500ml, shows amazing intensity and structure.  This is an example of a Colares wine which Portuguese connoisseurs collect, and that has proven to be the country's longest ageing red (I've heard of wines from the 1950's showing beautifully, something akin to a fully mature Barolo).  I suppose we will have to all find out for ourselves, though.

2007 Adega Regional Colares Tinto Chao Rioja Colares - $14.99 

http://www.klwines.com/detail.asp?sku=1081015

2004 Adega Regional Colares Arenae Colares (500ml) - $39.99

 http://www.klwines.com/detail.asp?sku=1081008

Also, I would like to encourage you all to stop in this Saturday to Redwood City (1-4pm), San Francisco (12-3pm) or Hollywood (3-5:30pm) for a Rioja and Ribera del Duero focused tasting.  Without mentioning specific wines (the line-ups are different in each store) I will say that the two northern California tastings will have some very cool mini horizontals from both regions, featuring traditional as well as modern producers.  It's always fun to taste with an open mind, compare the different styles, and possibly dispel any prejudices you may have (I do, admittedly, have some about these wines myself).  In Hollywood, the line-up has a bit more Rioja, and will show the amazing range of styles in the region, while showing a few great examples of Ribera del Duero as well.  The Tempranillo grape is the focus, so come in and see how different "terruño" as well as cellar technique affects the profile of these classic Spanish wines.

Un saludo,

Joe

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Joe Manekin

Spanish, Portuguese, Latin American Wine Buyer

K&L Wine Merchants

Ph: 877.559.4637 ext. 2748

joemanekin@klwines.com

Getting to Know: Joe Manekin

Name: Joe Manekin

What's your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company?

I am the Spanish, Portuguese and South American wine buyer.  I've been working here for two and a half years.

What did you do before K&L?

Before K&L I worked for a medium-sized wine wholesaler in Washington, DC.

What do you do in your spare time?

I like to blog (www.oldworldoldschool.blogspot.com).  Also I enjoy gardening, cooking, drinking (but of course!), recording and listening to music.

What's your favorite movie?

I’ll always go for a good music documentary or period piece.  Rockers!— a classic late-’70s Jamaican flick) is one of my favorites.

What was your "epiphany wine?"

I think I had my wine epiphany quite young (to protect my parents I won’t say quite how young. It was a bottle of 1986 Chalone Pinot Blanc—full-bodied but bright, palate-coating and memorable. More recently, a bottle of 1981 Martinsancho Verdejo that legendary Spanish winemaker Angel Rodriguez Vidal opened for me a year ago was phenomenal.

Describe your perfect meal. What wines would you pair with it?

’79 Salon (a birthyear wine I’d love to try) and potato latkes with crème fraiche and caviar to start.  Grass fed New York strip steak grilled rare and sautéed Lacinato kale paired with ’79 Palmer (another one I need to try). Also, some Lopez de Heredia Gran Reservas from the ’60s. Finally, a decanter of Puffeney Vin Jaune served with top-notch Comte and bread from Tartine (best bread in the world) to close things out.

How do you think your palate's change over the years?

Like many palates before me, I have moved away from richer, fruitier, oakier front- to mid-palate wines in favor of higher acid, more tensely-finishing wines.  In other words, you can keep the cult Cab, but pass the Poulsard my way!

What do you like to drink?

Geek beers and geek wines.  Anything from Cantillon. Lopez de Heredia, all flavors. Muscadet. Sherry. Our wonderful DI Champagnes, especially Marguet and Tarlant! So-called “natural wines.” Orange wines like Radikon. I could go on, but at the risk of subjecting myself to abuse at the office I’ll leave it at that. Non-alcoholic drink of choice: good Gyokuro green tea.

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine?

Always consider context. If you find your tastes jiving with one of us in particular, work mainly with that person. Also, whether you want to know the various soil types of the Loire Valley or simply want a tasty dry white wine to bring to a party, let us know and we’ll take care of you.

If you could have dinner with any three people in history, who would you invite? What would you serve them?

Jean-Michel Basquiat - 1981 Lopez de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva to celebrate his breakthrough year; Frederic Chopin - 1996 Royal Tokaji Wine Company Mezes Mály 6 Puttonyos (Hungary is sort of close to Poland); medieval philosopher Maimonedes - 1787 Château d’Yquem. We’d discuss the morality of forging super rare, older bottles and whether or not our bottle was a genuine one or of magical, non-existent provenance.