2007 San Francesco Cirò ($12.99) Calabria isn’t well known as an important winemaking region, but if there are more wines like this one from the toe of the boot, it will rocket to stardom! The Ciro, made from the almost unknown Gaglioppo grape, is supple in the mouth and elegant, with layers of delicate, complex fruit. It feels more like a supple California Pinot Noir but without the higher alcohol. Wonderfully balanced, fragrant and a pleasure to drink.

Greg St. Clair

The Iconoclast Aurora (Inquire) is a "Wine Barrel-Aged Altbier" chiming in at 4.9% ABV. It pours an amber, tiger's eye-colored beer with a smattering of white foam that quickly disappears after pouring. The nose is super interesting; first and foremost one is likely to smell the barrels, with tones of caramel, treacle, vanilla bean and an ever-so-slight charred quality. But the oak quickly subsides and pleasing stone fruit qualities of dried apricot and peach are layered over spicy notes of clove and a sweeter plantain note. The flavors here are superb, and while I'm not the most familiar with the Altbier style (the exact reason John made this wine, because it is so oft overlooked by beer fans and makers alike) this seems to be an interesting modern interpretation of the style. The flavors here are somewhat yeasty with a sort of toasty richness that hits on the finish. Round on its entry with broad creamy strokes, mild hop spice and a medium weight nature, the carbonation is mousse-like and the flavors are completely seamless. The Aurora builds dimension as it goes, kind of like one of those snowballs rolling downhill in an old cartoon.

The Iconoclast Éclat (Inquire) is an "American Oak Wine Barrel-Aged IPA" that was finished in Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon barrels. The Éclat pours burnt orange with a cap of rocky parchment-colored head that ends up lacing the glass in a spotty configuration. This looks classy and it is. The nose is full rustic Amarillo hop, sort of coppery and vegetal, also notes of dried grapefruit and fresh alfalfa with a mild backing from some caramel malt. This is not an overt hop bomb, much to the contrary, this is something that builds bitterness with every sip and is with you long after it is gone. I seriously could still taste the hops even after I ate an unglazed old-fashioned doughnut. This beer will haunt you.

Bryan Brick

2007 Frédéric Mabileau “Racines” Bourgueil* ($19.99) Sweet and round in body with moderate tannins, this is a lovely bottle of Bourgueil to throw into the holiday mix. The fruit is accentuated by spice, leather and tobacco flavors, and it is already strutting its stuff. The grace on display here means many pairing possibilities beyond the usual red meat plus Cab equation, though it has character enough to handle that, too.

2006 Gazin, Pomerol* ($59.99) Have a warm heart for someone with a cold cellar? This is destined for a long evolution and will be a real winner, with some patience. At present, it is intense yet well proportioned, giving off heady aromatics and showing impressive concentration on the palate while never losing its sense of equilibrium. The tannins are fine but firm, and there is a plump, plummy depth to the palate that is set off nicely by judicious oak shadings.

Mahon McGrath

2007 Gemtree “Bloodstone” Shiraz-Viognier McLaren Vale South Australia ($14.99) Gemtree continues to impress for quality and value. The 2007 “Bloodstone” Shiraz, which is co-fermented with 5% Viognier, has lifted aromatics of subtle peach and nectarine fruit, floral notes that mingle with blue and blackberry fruit, and a hint of chocolate and mocha. On the palate, the wine is juicy and supported by good acidity, with fine-grained soft tannins that give a sense of structure to the wine and leads to a long finish. This really sings of McLaren Vale fruit.

2006 Massena “11th Hour” Shiraz Barossa Valley South Australia ($39.99) I visited the winemakers,Dan Standish and Jaysen Collins, in February ’08 and I can tell you: these guys are producing some serious wines reflective of the land they work, presented with precision and grace. The aromatics are bright and lifted, with notes of boysenberry, blackberry, grilled meat, Earl Grey tea, spice, a hint of graphite and Provençal herbs. On the palate, the wine is lush and silky with seamless balance and an incredibly long finish. This is very polished and elegant. Something special.

Jimmy C

Bruno Michel Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut* ($44.99) One of my favorite Bruno Michel Champagnes! It is hard for me to share this bottle with anybody, but, when having to pick a wine for special gatherings, it tops my list. The nose shows wonderful chalky minerality while the palate is filled with clean, crisp, fruit and a light helping of brioche. A top pick for any lover of Champagne!

Ariston Aspasie Cepages d'Antan Champagne* ($99.00) This is the gift I will be asking for from anybody who wants to make my holiday season the best! This Champagne, made from the “varietals of yore,” is one of the best I have had the pleasure of drinking. The nose is filled with minerals, slight spice, toast and cream. On the palate the chalky minerality continues along with hints of brioche, white peach, and a wonderful texture all around. This is a super-special bottle and an amazing gift to give, or receive!

Doug Burress

2006 Anderson's Conn Valley “Reserve” Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.99) You will ooh and ahh over this beautifully structured, organic Napa Cab! Its bouquet is reminiscent of mature Bordeaux, and it has a velvety, layered mouthfeel, full of concentrated fruit and focus—it offers the best of both worlds! Drinking absolutely perfect now, it will evolve well over the next 20+ years.

2007 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir ($19.99) How Exciting! Finally a California Pinot Noir that’s beautifully balanced and made in a Burgundian style. Not overly extracted or overripe, but rather feminine and spicy, with a touch of earthy floral notes as well. Vibrant fresh fruit on the nose, medium-bodied and silky smooth with subtle tannins on the finish. My absolute favorite Central Coast Pinot for a price that’s affordable!

Christie Cartwright

Tarlant “Cuvée Louis” Brut Prestige Champagne* ($54.99) This Champagne is full-bodied, very dry and has plenty of depth and layers of complexity. It is a blend of the 1996 and 1997 vintages and is aged in large oak barrels. This is one of the winery’s top cuvées; it tastes so good, it is easily worth twice the price.

2005 La Couronne, Montagne St-Emilion* ($17.99) The first thing that I noticed about this wine was the expressive and inviting aromas coming from the glass. It has a dark, deep ruby red color, and it is full-bodied with dark berry flavors and a touch of earth. It tastes good now, but will be much better in a few years. A budget-friendly wine for the Bordeaux lover.

Jeff Jones

2006 Storybook “Eastern Exposures” Napa Zinfandel ($39.99) With its richly-expressive profile of cracked pepper, ripe blackberries, dense plums, wild brambles, tarry spice and sweet earth, this incomparable Napa Zinfandel achieves near-perfect pitch and rewrites all the rules for this popular California varietal. If you cherish great Zin, do yourself the rare pleasure of savoring and experiencing this stunning wine over the next decade.

2008 Benaza Mencía Monterrei ($12.99) In your endless quest for the perfect red to open this holiday season, look no further! Made from the versatile Mencía grape native to northwest Spain, this is a vibrantly alive, festive red with a nose to outshine Rudolph. Bursting with bright cherry-cranberry flavors wreathed by suave tannins and precise acidity, it will complement a wide array of dishes from turkey to appetizers.

John Majeski

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Book ($74.99) For those who want to know more (and then some) about Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Recently published and exhaustively researched, this book provides in-depth analysis of the appellation’s history, terroir, grapes and winemaking techniques. Beautiful photographs of the region, domaines and people make sitting down with this book and a glass of CdP the next best thing to being there in person. It is a superb resource for new fans as well as more seasoned connoisseurs of the appellation.

NV Caveau du Mont July Bugey Cerdon Rosé* ($15.99) This pink, semi-dry and very festive bubbly made from Poulsard and Gamay acquires its pétillance via a process known as méthode ancestrale. Hand-picked grapes from mountainous slopes in the shadow of the Alps are fermented in chilled vats just reaching 5 or 6 degrees alcohol. The young and light wine is then bottled, along with its active yeast and considerable unfermented sugars. Under pressure of the cork, the wine continues to ferment, gaining a few degrees of alcohol but retaining a nice amount of sweetness. Bugey Cerdon is so delicious and fun to drink, with a distinctly grapey aroma and a fruitiness that calls out for celebration and jubilation. It makes for a great housewarming gift or aperitif this holiday season. 8.25% ABV.

Mulan Chan-Randel

2006 Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Red ($34.99) This comes from the same vineyard and barrel as Ridge’s fabled “Monte Bello” Cab, but sells for a fraction of the price. A bit softer and more approachable than the winery’s flagship, its pedigree shows through its minerality and structure. Dark, brooding fruits are backed by cedar spices and lush tannins. An ageable wine with a serious structure unlike many domestic wines in this price range.

2007 Château de Montfaucon “Vin de Monsieur Le Baron de Montfaucon” Vin de Pays du Gard* ($39.99) A steal at $40. This wine’s depth and complexity stand up to Châteauneufs double the cost. The wine’s complexity shines through in the guise of nuanced spices and lovely, rich fruit, backed by precise acidity and firm tannins. This is one of those rare treasures in the wine world that is enjoyable now, but will be even better in 15 years.

Mike Barber

1996 Baron Fuente Grand Millésimé* ($44.99) Of course you expect great things from the 1996 vintage, but this takes those expectations to new heights. Incredibly complex, the nose is transcendental. Gone are the aromas of green apple, lemon curd and fresh toast. In their place is a harmonius symphony of ripened pomaceous fruit, minerality, toast and leesiness blended together in a beautiful bouquet that can only be achieved through vintage and bottle age.

Bruno Michel Blanche Brut Champagne ($29.99) This organic Champagne is one of my favorites regardless of price. But at only $29.99 and absolutely beautiful, you might wonder if it's too good to be true. It's not! This Champagne is composed of 53% Meunier and 47% Chardonnay, 70% from the 2004 harvest, 14% from the 2003 harvest and 16% from 2002.  It's incredibly delicate and elegant, with subtle layers and wonderful sophistication.

Mari Keilman

2006 Hedges "Three Vineyards" Red Mountain ($17.99) For a really nice steak dinner, or any dinner for that matter, the Hedges from Washington State is as good a red as you can find for less than 20 bucks. The 2006 is composed of a majority Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Syrah for added complexity. A Claret in style and wonderfully elegant and smooth, it drinks like something three times the price. I dare you to say you don’t like it.

Bruno Michel Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut* ($44.99) I think the holidays offers more occasions to break that  very special bottle of Champagne to really treat yourself (and others?) to a wonderful evening of drinking.  I sometimes go months without buying Champagne and don't realize how much I miss it until I taste something as exquisite as the Bruno Michel Blanc de Blancs. This is the bottle that brought me back to Champagne recently, and I'm loving it. This 100% Chardonnay-based wine is wonderfully rich with a bit of barrel aging, while maintaining a crisp and lively palate of bubbles and subtle hints of minerality from the chalky soil. The balance of flavor is truly special and justifies every penny you spend.

David Driscoll

2006 Joseph Carr Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.99) This is my new favorite Cabernet in the store for $20 or less. The 2006 Napa Cabernet is a Left Bank-style blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc all from Napa Valley’s top vineyards, but reflecting the spirit of the Bordelais from start to finish. Lots of California ripe and fleshy fruit and a bit of smoke and leather with good structure and elegant tannins.

2006 Anderson's Conn Valley Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.99) This has been my favorite California Cabernet producer in the store for the last few vintages, and the 2006 is fantastic. A surprising open nose of black currants, toasty oak and a bit of spice, the wine's rich mouthfeel is all black fruit, almost liqueur-like, with more toasty oak, spice and coffee flavors and a long finish that shows some mineral notes at the end. While there's plenty of tannic structure, the wine is accessible now (although with a few years of cellaring and it will be even better). I think it is a bit more elegant than the 2005.

Steve Greer

2008 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($8.99) A wonderful, clean and crisp Sauvignon Blanc that has loads of citrus, lychee and grapefruit. All stainless steel fermentation and no oak. This is a perfectly zippy wine that is made for lighter fare like oysters, chicken, pork and salad. And it's inexpensive enough for everyday drinking, too. For those of you who are not attracted to heavy, oily whites that are over-oaked!

NV Krug "Grande Cuvée" Champagne ($124.99) Yes, I know that this is a pricy item in these difficult economic times but, it is Krug and it is better than some Champagnes that cost well over $200. Now, to be honest, I am biased toward the house of Krug. Vintage, non-vintage, Clos de Mesnil. Not that I often have the Clos de Mesnil. In any case, the NV is a MUST for any lover of Champagne. The nose alone has nearly everything: coffee, coconut, toast and citrus fruit. On the palate, it gets even better with roasted nuts, golden apples, brioche and a zippy finish with fine acidity. Rich but not too rich, if you know what I mean. Worth every penny. I love it by itself or with something simple like baked Brie.

Scott Beckerley

2008 Pascal Janvier Jasnier (16.99) Jasnier is my secret, so please don't tell anyone!  This wonderful little village to the north of Vouvray produces some of the most astounding white wines in the world.  Formally (think 19th century) Jasnier was considered one of the finest Grand Crus in France. However, the rise of Bordeaux and Burgundy diminished this miniscule appellation to a blip on the map. No one told the folks in Jasnier, though, because they are still making some of the finest wines I've ever tasted.  100% Chenin Blanc, this one possesses a beguiling richness that is constantly morphing on the palate.  Wonderful acidity, clove honey, cinnamon, limestone, citrus, melon and a persistent dry rockiness just keep coming and changing.  At this price you can't afford not to buy this Grand Cru Chenin Blanc.

2006 Anderson's Conn Valley Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.99) Anderson's Conn Valley Napa Reserve—as well as their wonderful Merlot/Cab Franc blend “Right Bank”—are consistently some of the finest values in Napa Valley, even at $50, because these wines really over-deliver.  Thoughtful winemaking and exquisite fruit come together for this wine, making for something really special despite the otherwise difficult 2006 vintage.  The Reserve is approachable today thanks to its delineated rich fruit character, savory campfire spice and dark earthiness, which provides depth, but I do recommend decanting it thoroughly. This wine is clearly in its youth and will develop considerably in your cellar.  Structurally profound even at this early stage, any serious buyer who misses this will deeply regret it. 

David Othenin-Girard

2007 Roccapia Chianti ($9.99) I just opened this for our staff tasting recently and this little “Chianti” stopped the show with lots of oohs and ahhs from my co-workers. This Sangiovese has lots of bang for the buck (or Euro, very tough to beat these days). Medium-bodied with dark fruit, good acidity and a really long finish. This is the perfect Chianti to serve for holiday parties or just pizza or pasta night. It will bring you a little Tuscan sunshine to light up and warm a winter’s evening.

2004 Solaria Brunello di Montalcino ($44.99) I have known and sold this producer’s wines for many years. Patrizia Cencion's Solaria i is really a one-women operation (she does hire help for harvest) and her philosophy is that great wines start in the vineyard and not in the lab; she is there only to help it along. Patrizia really doesn’t put a thumbprint on her wines, she will let the she lets the hills of Montalcino and the Sangiovese speak for themselves. Classic dark and ripe fruit, full-bodied with lots of structure, I would give this a couple hours of decanting if I were to drink this sooner than later.  I have many past vintages in my cellar and a few of the 2004s will quickly join them.

Mike Parres

1981 Lopez de Heredia "Viña Tondonia" Blanco Gran Reserva Rioja  ($89.99) Words simply fail to do justice to this incredibly original, ageless white wine.  In addition to being a Rioja benchmark, the only Gran Reserva style white Rioja still in production, it is peerless in the world of white wine as well, a true original.  Velvety soft on the palate, with an interplay of rich stone fruits, marzipan and nutty qualities, this is one of the best wines I have ever drunk and it will likely remain that way.  Let others have their Montrachet, I'll take Tondonia, thank you very much.

2001 Abadal Reserva Pla de Bages ($19.99) A blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah, the 2001 Abadal is in a wonderful place right now: juicy black plum and currant fruit, rich but focused, and supported by wonderful secondary flavors of sweet herbs and a warm earthiness. Without a doubt, the fruit intensity and character of the excellent 2001 vintage, which many consider to be the vintage of the decade in Spain, is on full display here. Supple, rounded, and just an incredibly tasty drink, this is a terrific buy for any fan of mature Bordeaux or Napa Bordeaux blends.

Joe Manekin

Reception

Franck Bonville Brut Selection Blanc de Blanc

A fabulous hit to start the evening. Focused, clean, lemony, balanced and totally palate-pleasing.

  First Course

Hand-cut Fettucini with Dungeness Crab and Braised Leeks

1997 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

Heavenly aromas of cedar and cassis; elegant and perfect right now/

1999 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac   

The nose was more closed at first, but it opened up nicely.  It had more mineral and higher tannin content, but with a gutsy and fruity impression.

Second Course

Liberty Farms Duck Confit, Marbled Potatoes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Pomegranate, Duck Jus

1985 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

Elegance personified. Perfect right now. More black fruit flavors.  At peak. The cork was not great.

1986 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

More tannic but a classic Cabernet, with tons of cedar oak. Still a bit closed, but many diners loved its richness.

1991 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac   (Just in from Lalande’s cellar)

UNBELIEVABLE WINE! We drank two bottles. This wine just arrived Wednesday from France. Pure silk and satin on the palate.  Still has richness for the cellar.  Up there with 1991 Palmer, and maybe better tonight.

Third Course

Filet Mignon, Braised Spinach, Seared Foie Gras, Veal Demi-Glace

1983 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac   

As good as Pichon gets.  Elegance and finesse personified.  Super sweet on the palate, but still some stuffing for a few more years.

1995 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

Huge wine, blackberry flavors and tons of tannin.  Much too young—wait 10 years.

Fourth Course

Comte Cheese Plate

1975 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

A crumbled cork had me worried, but the wine was so good—maybe the hit of the night—with tons of spicy aromas and flavors. High acid and some tannin but quite well-balanced.

2004 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

New oak dominates the nose; this is a very sweet wine, a classic, but way too young to enjoy now.

1978 Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac  

The only disappointing wine of the bunch.  This bottle was tired and funky.  Well, 9 out of 10 isn’t bad.

Fifth Course

Crème Caramel

1991 Château  d’Yquem, Sauternes  

 Tasty. Not great, but quite nice. Not much botrytis.

K&L's David Driscoll pours Caol Ila and Highland Park at SF WhiskyFest

David Driscoll

K&L San Francisco's Jeff Jones holds down the fort.

K&L's David Driscoll with the Malt Advocate's guru John Hansell.

K&L's David Driscoll with the crew from Four Roses, his favorite producer of the event.

High West's David Perkins during his presentation....

To start, we all enjoyed a cocktail of the High West Rendezvous mixed with dry vermouth, apple cider, Benedictine, and a little rice wine vinegar.  Stunning and perfect considering the ingredients involved.  The real achievement, however, was how well the whiskey tasted with the food. The first course included crispy ocean trout with turnips, gnocchi, and caramelized onion dashi along side the Rendezvous rye.  The fish was tender and delicious and the sweetness of the onion really sang with the caramel notes in the whiskey.  When the 16 year old rye was served, we were treated to tamarind glazed sweetbreads with tart apple, cranberry beans, and horseradish.  I couldn't believe how well it really worked with the spicy and intense whiskey.  For the third and final pairing, we had foie gras terrine with huckleberry, caramel corn, cashew, and upland cress served with mini toasts.  Like Daniel said before we ate it, "It's like a fancy peanut butter and jelly sandwich."  It was heavenly with the 21 year old.  It was also my first time eating foie, which is embarrassing when you work at K&L (where it seems that at least one person is eating foie gras every week!).

It seemed like this was the place to be Wednesday night with tickets sold out long in advance.  The word must have been out, however, because mid-way through the night John Hansell and the Malt Advocate crew stopped by to say hello and have a drink.  I was so surprised and flattered that they came to give their support.  I can only hope that our next dinner coming up in a few weeks is as successful.  If you're interested in tasting some world class bourbons, learning a bit about how bourbon is made, as well as learning about mixology and cocktails, then you should join us November 4th in Redwood City when Bourbon & Branch founder Todd Smith hosts our next event at Martin's West Gastropub. Buy your tickets now, I'm sure this event will sell out quickly.

Here are some pictures from a very enjoyable evening.  I hope to see you all next we do this!

David Driscoll

We started the evening with a delicious magnum of Krug Champagne - toasty, rich and much more interesting than the 750ml - served with Kay’s famous Pesto Torte.

With Kay’s Butternut Squash Soup, we enjoyed a magnum of Didier Daguenau’s 2004 Pouilly Fume-Pur Sang. It showed great richness, and was a sharp, focused wine with citric and guava notes - a good match for the rich winter soup.

We then tasted two wines blind with a Duck Confit salad.  Pierre said the two Bordeaux wines (I always serve Bordeaux) were both from excellent vintages and guessed 1985 because of the sweetness.  The wines were the 1997 Haut-Bailly and the 1997 Pichon-Lalande. Both were absolutely fabulous with the Haut-Bailly showing mineral notes and elegance while the Pichon was a bit heavier and richer.  SO GOOD with the duck confit. 

At a break between courses, Mark poured a 2002 Echezeau, Jean Tardy that was just starting to evolve.

 With the barbecued steak I served a magnum of 1966 Chateau Siran. It started a bit funky and sharp, but evolved into a sweet, somewhat rustic, deilicious mature Bordeax - superb.

After dinner, Kay served some chevre, Comte and Camembert accompanied by two more wines tasted blind.  Pierre said of the first: imust be a fabulous year-  the wine is heavenly sweet and lush.  He guessed Pauillac from 1982. It was Pauillac from 1983, actually, Pichon-Lalande at that, and an almost-perfect wine.

May Eliane (the estate's former owner) and I always preferred the 1983 Pichon to the 1982, but the 1982 is otherworldly these days. The 1983 is only 99 points.

The second wine served was a knockout - a powerful, broody, rich, thick Bordeaux.  Pierre said surely 1982 and from North Medoc. He was close; it was 1982 Leoville-Las Cases, a wine that will go another 20 years.

A little cheesecake and berries were the perfect finish to the meal, especially with 1995 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Long Gold Capsule Auslese.  7.5% alcohol and packed with fruit and spice, with a finish that went on for a minute.

Now, next week is diet week.

Clyde Beffa

David Driscoll

-Whiskey in the U.S. is defined as grain spirit that is distilled at less than 190 proof.     Anything distilled at higher than 190 proof is considered grain neutral spirit (GNS), which is without color, aroma, taste, or character. Vodka, for example, is GNS with water (and Cowdery does not shy away from taunting the vodka drinkers from rationalizing how something neutral can be better or worse than a contemporary).

- All U.S. distilleries use No. 2 grade corn, rye, and wheat to make their whiskey, so all this talk about “only the finest grains” is a bunch of fluff.  They all buy from the same suppliers.

- American whiskey has the entire mash, grains and all, go through the fermentation process unfiltered, unlike in Scotland and other countries where the filtered mash (called wort) consisting of only the sugary water goes into the still.   

- Good water is crucial to making good whiskey. The spring water in Kentucky and Tennessee is filtered through natural limestone, which adds calcium and removes salt, making it favorable to yeast come fermenting time. 

- What is sour mash? - Sour mash is made when slop (the already fermented and spent mash) is pumped back in with the unfermented mash giving it a sour taste. This is done to help keep the pH consistent to keep the whiskey uniform. It could be done differently now, but, as Cowdery states throughout the book, heritage and tradition reign supreme in whiskey making. 

- Yeast is very, very important. Not all yeast is the same. It is major contributor to the flavor of a whiskey, much like wine, and knowing how to cultivate and control it is an important job of a distiller. If you didn’t know that Beaujolais Nouveau tastes like banana because of commercial designer yeast, then you need to contact me about other reading materials. Yeast is crazy important. 

- In order to be called bourbon or rye, the spirit must come off the still at less than 160 proof.  All whiskey distilled between 160 and 190 goes into blended whiskey.  Flavor is inversely proportional to proof, so you want to keep it lower if you want the grain to come through.

- Bourbon and rye must be reduced with water to less than 125 proof and aged in new oak charred on the inside.  The red color of whiskey comes from this charred barrel. Whereas warm weather causes the whiskey to expand into the wood, the cool evening temperatures contracts it and the whiskey pulls out the color, tannins and flavor of the barrel.  The char from the wood helps to tame the negative congeners (the remaining flavors of the original distilled substance).

Speaking of congeners, Cowdery really makes clear what the art of distillation truly is: it lies in being able to retain the positive and good tasting congeners, while eliminating the other negative ones.  The goal of distilling, as Cowdery says, is making the beverage palatable either by making it neutral (as with vodka) or by using herbs, fruit, spices, barrel aging, etc.  Whiskey should retain the flavor of its original element, so knowing how to distill it properly and making it palatable is an art form. 

All this information comes from about four pages of the 250+ pages in this book.  Do yourself a favor and check it out.  Then you can come into the store and totally put me in check with your extreme knowledge.

David Driscoll

Sonja and Derek Kassebaum at North Shore Distillery.

Gin was king pre-Prohibition. It made (and still makes) all the best cocktails—from the Aviation to the classic Martini (the only real Martini).  Many of the best gins came from England and today many still do.  However, the American products to join the ranks over the last decade or so have been truly spectacular: Anchor Steam’s Junipero, Leopold Bros. Small Batch and Sarticious are a few that come to mind.  However, no arrival to our liquor shelf has been as exciting as the products of a small distillery in Chicago called North Shore; they may very well be the next great story in craft distilling.  Their No. 6 Gin is radiant, their Scandinavian-influenced Aquavit is wickedly smooth and their No. 11 Gin is so heavenly that it has converted me completely to an avid North Shore follower. Their small production, hands-on, adventurous and delicious spirits have my head spinning, both because of their quality and the fact that I can’t stop drinking them.

Hand-signing a North Shore bottle.Just how small does “small production” mean?  In the case of North Shore it means small batches of distinctive bottles made by two people: the husband and wife team of Derek and Sonja Kassebaum, plus one part time employee. Since they don’t make very much, I buy everything I can when it’s available.  Derek, who is trained as a chemical engineer, does all the distilling, and Sonja, a legally-trained consultant for start-up companies, now consults for and manages her own.  Before they teamed up to create their own line of craft spirits, Derek dabbled in brewing his own beer and making his own wine, but thought it would be exciting to actually try and make a living distilling spirits.  Sonja, always a cocktail nerd at heart, decided to leave the corporate world and lend a hand.  Four years later, they’re ready to conquer America’s lounges and retail stores, winning over tasting panels from coast to coast.

Just why are North Shore’s gins so freakin’ delicious?  The answer to that may lie in the design and functioning of their still, which Derek helped to create. While most stills are heated with steam, the North Shore still relies on a hot water bath, which allows for a far greater control over the temperature at which the spirit is distilled.  Being able to control the temperature means greater control over the resulting flavor, which at times seems too perfect to be true. Another reason could be that both the No. 6 and No. 11 are made by people who love and appreciate gin. The philosophy behind their gins is simple and smart: make something great and make sure it doesn’t taste like everything else.  In the case of North Shore’s gin production, different combinations of botanicals and herbs were used experimentally in different batches, which were then tasted and improved upon. The No. 6 is named so because it was the batch number of their best formula.  Batches one through five, as well as batches seven through whatever, were also created, sampled, poured for friends, and brought to blind tastings, but were not as beloved as batch number six. 

The still at North Shore Distillery.While the No. 6 was clean, focused, soft, and delicious, it was flavored with some non-traditional botanicals such as lavender.  Derek and Sonja were completely satisfied with the result, but they were also worried about the lack of traditional juniper flavor and wanted to make sure they had another ace up their sleeve for hardcore gin lovers.  The result was the No. 11, which is not named after its batch number, but rather after the famous Spinal Tap quote, “…this amp goes to 11.”  In this case, the juniper is turned up not to 10, but to 11, and it is ridiculously good.  I used to buy three or four different gins at a time because I liked their unique and specific qualities, but I am having a hard time drinking anything but the No. 11 right now.  The nose is so aromatic and the flavors are bold, but graceful. I guess I just don’t see the point of drinking anything less than the best, and believe me, the No. 11 is absolutely the best gin in production right now. 

The Scandinavian presence in the north Midwest led North Shore to also produce the underappreciated Aquavit—a neutral spirit flavored mainly with caraway seeds—but often containing small amounts of anise, fennel and coriander, among other spices.  Derek and Sonja had friends who would periodically travel to Scandinavia and return with a bottle to taste them with, and they thought, “We can make this.” The twist with the North Shore Aquavit is that, unlike most traditional Aquavit, it is aged briefly in small American oak barrels, which softens the alcohol and adds a faint richness to the flavor. The result is a highly aromatic, spicy, yet smooth after-dinner sipper that has been receiving rave reviews everywhere, and one that has been selling out at our Redwood City store without me having to say a word (the word is out!).    

Sonja Kassebaum is well aware that the cocktail revival is moving full steam ahead being such an avid fan herself. With her guidance, North Shore has smartly centered its production on pleasing both admirers of great spirits and lovers of great cocktails.  Someone who buys a bottle of North Shore No. 11 is going to make the martini of their life, let alone gin and tonic, while someone looking to create a classic Aviation, Martinez, or Corpse Reviver is going to be hard pressed to do better than with the No. 6.  The best bartenders want to pour their booze, the best retailers want to sell it, and people everywhere are dying to buy it—that’s the triple crown in the liquor business.  Aside from the economics, however, is the fact that Derek and Sonja love a good drink. They got into this business because they wanted to wake up in the morning and go do a job that they loved and believed in. The revival of American craft distillates owes its success to production that is, once again, a labor of love rather than a capitalistic grab at filling the void. More than 70 years after Prohibition gutted our industry, we have once again found our way towards making great spirits and great drinks, and it is because of passionate and knowledgeable producers like North Shore that we have done so.

David Driscoll

Gary Westby

What’s your position at K&L and how long have you been with the company?

I’m the Spirits buyer and Hollywood’s Loire/Alsace/Germany/Austria liaison, and I’ve been with K&L since February 2008.

 What did you do before you started working here?

I was buying spirits across town.  I also worked in events with caterers and party planners to provide full bar services for parties across LA. When K&L popped up out of nowhere I knew I had to get involved.  As a “mostly” native Angeleno, I’ve always felt that the ast side of Los Angeles was severely underserved in terms of wine choices.  In fact, all of Los Angeles has benefited for K&L’s presence here, and I’m grateful to be a part of it.

What do you like to do in your spare time?

I spend most of my spare time walking my basset hound, Goober. We walk around Hollywood looking for new places to eat or new bars to keep. When I’m not scoping out restaurants, wine programs and cocktail lists, I’m testing my bar skills on my unwitting friends. I have to say that you can really tell who’s a true friend after your first cocktailian disaster.  If you’ve made a terrible drink (whether mistakenly or over-ambitiously), a true friend will never suck it down with a smile. Honest criticism is the key improvement.

What’s your favorite movie?

Time Bandits.

What was your “epiphany wine”—the bottle or glass that got you interested in wine? Is there a current wine that you consider the equivalent?

Wine has been part of my life since I was very young.  My Grandfather was an (amateur) winemaker and I used to spend summers outside of Geneva helping him tend his 1/2-acre of vines.  He instilled a great reverence for the vine; tasting his wine has always been an important memory.  My epiphany wine, however, was thanks to my former employer, an illustrious gentleman who thought nothing of opening something extremely rare if the right crowd was about. I reaped the benefits of one particularly extravagant tasting and got my lips around a glass of 1928 Cheval Blanc. I was floored. I understood, in theory, that great wines were essentially immortal, but experiencing the supernatural first hand changed my life.  Also, Port Ellen 29 year and 1985 DRC St. Vivant. Thanks Grandpa!

Describe your perfect meal (at a restaurant or prepared at home). What wine(s) would you pair with it?

My perfect meal has less to do with what’s being served than with who I am with, but if I am being put on the spot it would be dinner on the hill in Camogli, a small fishing village near Portofino.  They do an amazing whitefish carpaccio drizzled with amazing olive oil and a lemon twist.  This pairs perfectly with the mineral crispness of the regions Bosco or Vermentino varietals. Watching the sunset over the Mediterranean with a good friend is truly a transcendent experience.  Also, Chez Omar near Place de la Republique in Paris with a back vintage of Tempier Bandol Rouge—perfect couscous, perfect pave au poire, perfect restaurant. 

How do you think your palate’s changed over the years?

I don’t know if my palate has changed over the years, although in college I was able to drink Keystone Light, something that I’m physically unable to do now.  However, I think I’ve developed a more delineated sense of what I love to drink and why.  I think of myself as a very open-minded drinker, not discounting any bottle because of its varietal or appellation.  That being said, every region has its duds and its studs.  I tend to prefer winemaking that is genuine and thoughtful.  Overly-worked wines can taste like they came from a factory rather than the vineyard.  If you don’t have grapes that can speak for themselves than maybe you shouldn’t be letting them speak in the first place.

What do you like to drink?

Well… red, white, sparkling and dessert wine.  Also, beer and ciders of all sorts, Sherry, Porto (especially vintage), bourbon, rye, cognac, armagnac, tequila, mirabelle, quetsch, grappa, calvados, applejack, rum, absinthe, whisk(e)y of all sorts, mescal, liqueurs, eau di vie and fruit brandy.  But of course, the cocktail is king!

What words of advice do you have to offer people just getting into wine?

Never prejudge a wine based on what you know or think you know.  If I hear someone say they don’t like Merlot one more time…Château Petrus is Merlot, are you sure you don’t like Petrus?

If you could have dinner with any three people in history, who would you invite? What wine would you serve each of them?

Hardy Rodenstock, Jerry Thomas, Didier Dagueneau.  We’d have ’47 Cheval Blanc, ’27 Fonseca, and ’96 Krug respectively.